[DieselDrax]

This just landed on my doorstep. I'll post up pics and such once I get around to doing the install!

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[shtboxbrz]

The install is ez and you can route the hose all the down and have the valve by the front tire. The hardest part was cutting the cover which i fucked up badly.

 

[dmaxjr]

Yes very easy and very neat and tidy kit. My friend put one on his Duramax ZR2 with no issues.

 

[DieselDrax]

Ok, install done! Took me an hour on the button start to finish including taking pics and fiddling with the drain hose (which I just coiled up in front of the airbox and secured with the reusable zip tie provided).

Started with this...

Removed the BMS can and tubing...

Installed the Sasquatch bracket, which was kind of a pain but not too bad. Just took some fiddling to get the expansion tank tab back over the locator on the fender, etc.

Installed the Provent. Pro-tip, run the bolts through the nuts on the bracket before mounting the Provent to clean the threads, makes getting the bolt started much easier when actually mounting the Provent.

Ran the hoses. Ended up going under the small coolant line, kept the host clamps loose so that the hose at the CCV heater connection could be positioned correctly. The CCV heater bracket actually attaches nicely to the lower Provent hose. The plastic bracket for the small coolant line ended up being removed and instead I just used a zip tie to secure it to the lower Provent hose.

Ensured clearance around the heat shield, etc...

Coiled the drain hose in front of the airbox. Cleaning and sticking the zip-tie mount to the frame rail was a pretty funny suggestion, but sticking was never in the cards. The zip tie on the airbox worked fine, though. So far...

All done!

 

[ARCowboy]

Looks good. Much better than the zip tie mounting job I did with mine. Curious to see how much oil you get out of yours; I usually get a couple tablespoons out of mine every 5k miles.

 

[DieselDrax]

Looks good. Much better than the zip tie mounting job I did with mine. Curious to see how much oil you get out of yours; I usually get a couple tablespoons out of mine every 5k miles.

Thanks! I think my BMS was collecting about the same amount, I forget exactly when I put it back in but I think I emptied it when I did my last oil change and I think I had about 1/4 cup when I emptied it for this, which was about 6,500 miles. Maybe not quite 1/4 cup, the can was about half full. I feel like the amount has gone down as the engine gets more miles put on it (currently at 69k).

 

[shtboxbrz]

Looks good. Much better than the zip tie mounting job I did with mine. Curious to see how much oil you get out of yours; I usually get a couple tablespoons out of mine every 5k miles.

I'm about 3k in on my aos and have about 1floz in the tube. It took about 1500 miles for it to start collecting too.

Ok, install done! Took me an hour on the button start to finish including taking pics and fiddling with the drain hose (which I just coiled up in front of the airbox and secured with the reusable zip tie provided)
All done!

This thing is going to be so much better than an ebay catch can. kind of bummed that radium doesnt make anything for the truck. I really love their cans on my brz. They work so much better than my mishimoto even

 

[Harobmxer87]

What made you decide to put a catch can back on after taking it off?

 

[ARCowboy]

What made you decide to put a catch can back on after taking it off?

I think he was upgrading from the BMS to the Provent 200. The amount of oil these things collect is crazy... oil that goes directly into the turbo/intake.

Part of me wonders if it was designed like that, but I can't imagine GM engineers counting on PCV oil to lubricate anything...

 

[DieselDrax]

This thing is going to be so much better than an ebay catch can. kind of bummed that radium doesnt make anything for the truck. I really love their cans on my brz. They work so much better than my mishimoto even

I don't know if the BMS catch can is available on eBay, but it's not one of the cheap Chinese units. The BMS can is well designed and made by Burger Motorsports here in the US and worked well, it was actually designed for the BMW turbo engines and is one of the few cans available with ports large enough to support the flow necessary for a diesel engine. The standard catch cans have ports that are too small and are unable to flow enough. The problem is that this can and most similar designs get all snotty with oil/condensation sludge during cold winters. I had to clean it weekly in the winter, so after dealing with it for one winter I ended up taking it off. I had it off for probably 2 years before I put it back on this Spring and was going to go back to stock for the winter and just buy some Band-It clamps to put the stock hose back on but decided now would be a good time to just bite on the bullet on the Provent kit. If I didn't live where it got so cold in the winter I would've run the BMS can year-round. So folks in the south or on the west coast would have no problem.

BMS Turbo Double Baffle Oil Catch Can (CAN ONLY)

Keep Oil Out of your vehicle's Air Intake System! It's no secret that BMW turbo motors can suffer from oil control problems causing oil to blow through and coat the intercooler and charge piping, gunking up intake valves and the VANOS system, lowering the effective octane, and generally...

burgertuning.com

Nasty sludge and a lot of water in a short period of time thanks to sub-freezing temps.

What made you decide to put a catch can back on after taking it off?

I already had the can, I installed a tune around the same time I put the can back in, and the only downside to installing it (and removing it in the winters) was time. As far as the engine is concerned, less oil getting into the intercooler, intake, and engine is a good thing.

I think he was upgrading from the BMS to the Provent 200. The amount of oil these things collect is crazy... oil that goes directly into the turbo/intake.

Part of me wonders if it was designed like that, but I can't imagine GM engineers counting on PCV oil to lubricate anything...

It was just designed cheaply, they could've done what Cummins did and install a CCV filter that does drain back into the head and is installed in the valve cover, allowing clean air to flow into the intake. Oh well.

Next project is to pull and clean the intercooler, curious to see how much oil has collected in there.

 

[Deejayoh]

Read with interest, and then looked at the price. $400! Yikes!

 

[DieselDrax]

Read with interest, and then looked at the price. $400! Yikes!

Yeah, it's a bit pricey but it's a quality setup and the Provent is a commercial/OEM-quality unit. The Provent itself runs $150 and having custom-fit silicone hoses and a mounting bracket is hard to beat.

CX Racing offers a bolt-on kit for like $200, but I have no experience with it. Oil Catch Can Kit for 2016+ GMC Canyon Chevy Colorado 2.8 Duramax Diesel

 

[shtboxbrz]

Read with interest, and then looked at the price. $400! Yikes!

I sent 400 on my radium setup on my brz so that was pretty normal for me. I can tell you that this provent is way more effective than my radiums and they are much better than my previous mishimoto which was considered a "good" can

 

[valvecovergasket]

Next project is to pull and clean the intercooler, curious to see how much oil has collected in there.

this im really curious to see.

Read with interest, and then looked at the price. $400! Yikes!

good bit of that is the provent itself, those are quality robust industrial equipment units. sasquatch also seems to have built a really nicely engineered kit too.

i had a raccor i was going to homebrew install a couple years ago but never went through with it. ive been hemming and hawing about the provent kit as the truck ages, but probably wont spend the money this year...

definitely keeping an eye on this, thanks for posting!

 

[DieselDrax]

this im really curious to see.

definitely keeping an eye on this, thanks for posting!

With almost 70k miles and maybe 15k-20k with a catch can installed I can say the intercooler doesn't have enough in it to make it worthwhile to deal with the absolute nightmare it is to get it out and back in without removing the cooling stack. I did get some ick out of it but not enough to really make a difference. I pulled the hot and cold side hoses and cleaned those out, the cold side was minimally oily, just some condensation pooled in the ribs. Hot side had oil pooled in the ribs, so for anyone in my shoes just leave the intercooler alone and clean the hoses.

The process was so frustrating that I didn't remember to take pics.

 

[enilson]

Maybe I just missed it, but how does the Provent/Sasquatch kit solve the cold weather problem that others have? It regularly gets in the single digits for a few weeks (and we’ll below freezing for about 5 months) where I live, so I’m curious how this works.

 

[DieselDrax]

Maybe I just missed it, but how does the Provent/Sasquatch kit solve the cold weather problem that others have? It regularly gets in the single digits for a few weeks where I live, so I’m curious how this works.

Not sure, but Mann says it can operate down to -40F and Sasquatch claims to have tested it in Minnesota winters.

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[enilson]

Not sure, but Mann says it can operate down to -40F and Sasquatch claims to have tested it in Minnesota winters.

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Good to know, thanks. I’ll have to shoot them an email and get some more info.

 

[Duken4evr]

Slick setup! I like that the inlet hose runs uphill before reaching the can, that should help to keep at least some oil in the engine as it has to go uphill, making the catch can's job easier. It is so dry here in Colorado, I don't get the "snot" in my catch can. I recall a member in Minnesota who had lots of water in his Provent in the winter.

As for the drain hose, there is a slot in the plastic deflector pan under the radiator that works perfectly. I have my shutoff valve (a repurposed toilet tank supply line valve) above pan, then a short length of hose under it and through the pan. It is easy to drain come oil change time. Here is a pic.

 

[DieselDrax]

Slick setup! I like that the inlet hose runs uphill before reaching the can, that should help to keep at least some oil in the engine as it has to go uphill, making the catch can's job easier. It is so dry here in Colorado, I don't get the "snot" in my catch can. I recall a member in Minnesota who had lots of water in his Provent in the winter.

As for the drain hose, there is a slot in the plastic deflector pan under the radiator that works perfectly. I have my shutoff valve (a repurposed toilet tank supply line valve) above pan, then a short length of hose under it and through the pan. It is easy to drain come oil change time. Here is a pic.

View attachment 418206

I have skid plates so there's no slot, unfortunately. It's not a big deal for me to just drop the hose down when it's oil change time, so I'm not going to put much effort into running it down there permanently. Might be helpful for others, though. Thanks!

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