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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since no one has really posted how they have run audio and power to their amps, I will post as I go..
I found the speaker wire by using a speaker laying around.. it's pins 7 & 16 you'll want. Use a 9/32 driver for the top bolt on the side covers. The a nice long screwdriver to poke at the clips while you gently pry at the plastics..
You will have to pull the protective boot on the door side, flip the lever and disconnect. Then you will be able to pull the inner plug out for tapping in to.


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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Since no one has really posted how they have run audio and power to their amps, I will post as I go..
I found the speaker wire by using a speaker laying around.. it's pins 7 & 16 you'll want. Use a 9/32 driver for the top bolt on the side covers. The a nice long screwdriver to poke at the clips while you gently pry at the plastics..
You will have to pull the protective boot on the door side, flip the lever and disconnect. Then you will be able to pull the inner plug out for tapping in to.


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I found that the easiest route for power was above the hood latch cable through the firewall. I pulled one of the potential option cutouts in the padding away and drilled a 3/4" hole, pit in a grommet and ran my 4 gauge wires. Then I could run each on on either side of the wire loom back next to the seats.
I was able to run them through the rear loom box. Then under the carpet along the back.


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Yea....I was way too excited when I swapped out my stereo system, which took 2+ days with the entire interior removed.....my bad that I didnt take any pix at all. :frown2:

Glad to see someone is taking the time to do this. :smile2:
 

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Since no one has really posted how they have run audio and power to their amps, I will post as I go..
I found the speaker wire by using a speaker laying around.. it's pins 7 & 16 you'll want. Use a 9/32 driver for the top bolt on the side covers. The a nice long screwdriver to poke at the clips while you gently pry at the plastics..
You will have to pull the protective boot on the door side, flip the lever and disconnect. Then you will be able to pull the inner plug out for tapping in to.


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It appears you are tapping into the rear door speakers? For reference . . what colors are the pairs of wires?

Also of note, it has been found that the rear speaker signal does not seem to carry the full drive and possibly spectrum as the front door speakers signals. This may vary depending if the truck has the Bose system. In non Bose system, the front door speakers are full sound spectrum and a better signal apparently than the rear door speaker wires.
 

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From what I've read on the bose system so far, the rears get a full signal, vs the stock system rears, which do not.

From the pictures it looks like you are running both hot and ground all the way from the battery, unless my eyes deceive me. That is generally not advised. Ground should be as close to your amplifier(s) as possible.

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From the pictures it looks like you are running both hot and ground all the way from the battery, unless my eyes deceive me. That is generally not advised. Ground should be as close to your amplifier(s) as possible.

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Yes, it is a big waist of time and wire and can cause a voltage drop to the amp. The truck itself is a much bigger ground wire.....

There is an upfitters electrical manual posted on this site somewhere, has all the wires for the audio in it too.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I ran the $15 worth of ground wire back because I don't trust the existing ones in vehicles. I originally planned on running one from the amp to the cab also..
Anyway, I didn't manage to get as much done as I wanted. I fished cables under the carpet mostly by hand and with the aid of some 1/8" magnesium filler rod(I weld for a living).
I mounted the amp and line output converter to the back plastic with some selftappers. Good luck on the bottom ones. That's about the only location for these because of the amount of room needed. They are pinched when the seat is back, which leads to cooling. I'm not as worried about this because the amp is fan cooled and nothing blocks the sides. Nor will I be pushing is to a meltdown stage.
In a few weeks, I will finish it. Work is going to take up all of my spare time until then.


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I ran the $15 worth of ground wire back because I don't trust the existing ones in vehicles. I originally planned on running one from the amp to the cab also..
Anyway, I didn't manage to get as much done as I wanted. I fished cables under the carpet mostly by hand and with the aid of some 1/8" magnesium filler rod(I weld for a living).
I mounted the amp and line output converter to the back plastic with some selftappers. Good luck on the bottom ones. That's about the only location for these because of the amount of room needed. They are pinched when the seat is back, which leads to cooling. I'm not as worried about this because the amp is fan cooled and nothing blocks the sides. Nor will I be pushing is to a meltdown stage.
In a few weeks, I will finish it. Work is going to take up all of my spare time until then.


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It's not a matter of using existing wires in the truck. You should run 4ga ground wire from your amp to the nearest solid ground bolt, usually one of the bolts that secure the seats to the body. You should never run ground all the way to the battery. A quick Google search will show you why but there are several reasons. I highly recommend you abandon the current ground wire and securely ground the amp to a nearby seat bolt. Take a metal file and file off any paint where the screw secures, to assure a solid connection.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry, I meant to say ground as in the cab being grounded. But I will run one to the cab as well.

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