Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,976 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have had my RPMs stick on me twice now.

After driving on the highway for about 40-50 minutes, my idle will stick when exiting the freeway and then will continue to until I come to a complete stop for a good 30 seconds before it will drop back down.

The second time it did this was Thursday night. I took it out of gear and put it into neutral. I revved it from the 2,000 RPMs I was at in gear to about 3,000 RPMs and it then stuck to 3,000.

I recently had my camshaft sensor go out (threw a P0017 and P0014) and that caused my timing to advance in turn making the engine shake violently.

This sticking has happened both before and after the sensor was replaced, so I don't know if it has anything to do with that.

Anyone ever had this happen or know what's causing it?

I'm still under warranty and will take it in for this, but I want to go in with a little more information so that the dealer can hopefully recreate and diagnose the problem, because obviously, my RPMs shouldn't get stuck like this.

2006 I4 - 5-speed. No tune. Just an AEM intake, throttle body spacer and exhaust. Nothing else modified to the engine or computer related. All stock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,864 Posts
Well I would say to check the throttle cable but... we don't have one lol.

Sounds like either the electronic throttle control (ETC) aka throttlebody or possibly a bad PCM. If it were a bad MAF then the engine would most likely run rough when this occured as it would either lean out the engine or richen it up so my best guess is the ETC is sending a wrong signal telling the PCM to accelerate the engine.

Although i had a similar situation with a 2002 Sentra 1.8L the other day, independant shop replaced the idle air control valve thinking it would repair the high idle concern but it didn't. So they brought it to the dealer and so i began to diagnose it. I find the TPS sends the correct signal of approx 0.5volts at idle and confirm this with a digital volt meter however while i monitor the same signal on the scan tool the PCM thinks its receiving a higher signal like 1.1volts therefore telling the PCM to accelerate the engine higher thinking the throttle is open but its not. Nissan had problems with these PCMs overheating due to some insulation they had us remove from the PCM case in a recall however for some it was too late and their PCM fried. SO after all that i replaced the PCM (Nissan calls it a ECM) and that fixed the problem. Sad part is they got all my work and parts for free as it was still under the 80k mile emissions/ECM warranty... however all the money they spent at the independant shop for a false diagnosis/repair well... that was on them LOL.

More than likely a bad ETC imo. Just in case though, i'd ditch the intake and put the stock one on in case they give you crap about the MAF getting coated or whatever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,864 Posts
Well if thats the case then tell them its ok to keep it overnight or drive it home or whatever until they can duplicate it. Or see if they have the black box recorder that you press the button when its occuring and it'll record all the engine sensor's signals.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top