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Looks great! Don't suppose your research found the wheel with collision assist?
I just quickly looked on the parts website that i used and found this number# 84044764, if you order it double check with the seller. Im in Canada and i used tubmangmpartsdepot.ca
 

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Thunderbear,
Removed negative cable.
Clockspring tab removed after installation in column, as long as you don’t turn it everything will be alright.
I was an auto technician for years, I respect the power of the SIR system, I know as long as I don’t do anything stupid I won’t be surprised.
Simple install on my 2018 Centennial 45 minutes max.
Eric
 

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Discussion Starter #164
Erix-2008 has it exactly right. In my case it's been long enough since I did this that I don't really recall the details but I believe I left that locking tab in place as long as possible just to make sure I didn't accidentally bump it out of alignment.
 

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Well, ground disconnected and isolated. Breaks pumped for thirty seconds and left for half an hour. I'm going in.

We stole the rope from the Army, the eagle from the Air Force, and the anchor from the Navy. And on the seventh day, when God rested, we overran His perimeter and stole the Globe, we've been running the show ever since.

United States Marines.
 

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Reset clock, had to turn the truck on and recenter the wheel, ground re-disconnected and brakes pumped. Dammit.

Well, after reinflating a flat on the TJ, I busted out the inspection camera to see if that plug aside the column cylinder was present on a Colorado. And:

 

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Well, well, well.

Time to add some heat!

A small Allen wrench around 3mm works, they only need to depress the spring about 1/4" inward to the center.



Pulled airbag:



Interior view of 2 post 2017 Colorado wheel 84044758



Pulled wheel, and popped top cover shroud off, and removed 3 7mm screws from lower shroud to loosen. You can see the notch for where the heated clock spring has a slight extension.



A tale of two clocksprings. On the left you can see the heated wires are missing from the clockspring, and the shroud extension at the 7:00 position for the heat wires is absent.



This is the plug that goes to the X203 connector, that is preinstalled on certain 2017 Z71s, and maybe LTs. If you want to check, pull an endoscope and look in the access hole in the lower shroud for the connector next to the steering wheel cylinder:



A view of it from the top:



And with the connector from the clockspring:



Reassembled and buttoned up before wheel install:



New wheel installed!



Test heat!



GMC wheel with Colorado airbag and cover, no adapter needed:



But, you will need to swap bezels on your HMI, the "Gloss Axiom" trim of the GMC doesn't match whatever charcoalish tint they call the Colorado trim:



Short, but nerve-wracking install. Disconnect the ground on the battery, then pump the brakes for 30sec to discharge the capacitor for the airbags, then wait 15-30 minutes. Remove airbags, install wheel, reattach ground to test wheel, disconnect ground and wait 15-30 min, then install airbag and reattach ground for good. I am working on installing the Carperformance Android HMI warranty replacement as well, hence the dash teardown.

Also, as far as I can tell, the heat is primarily in the 10/2 positions. Will have to test further.


Final parts list:

2017 Acadia Denali heated wheel Cocoa Dune 84047233
2016/7+ Canyon Denali harness 84394027
Many models GM clockspring (coil) 23407638
Feibings Pro Dye
 

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Well, upon further experimenting, the most heat is centered around the grips at 10 and 2, but the outermost circumference of the entire wheel is heated also, in a strip about an inch or so wide. I suspect there is a couple of wider wrap around areas in the 10 and 2 that increases the heat there.
 

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Well, upon further experimenting, the most heat is centered around the grips at 10 and 2, but the outermost circumference of the entire wheel is heated also, in a strip about an inch or so wide. I suspect there is a couple of wider wrap around areas in the 10 and 2 that increases the heat there.
Did you torque the steering wheel bolt to a certain setting or just make it tight? Did you use any sort of Loctite on the bolt?
 

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Did you torque the steering wheel bolt to a certain setting or just make it tight? Did you use any sort of Loctite on the bolt?
If I remember, the original bolt had some blue loctite still on it. I didn't torque to a spec, just as tight as it came off, which was pretty damn tight.
 

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Planning on ordering parts to upgrade this weekend.

Can someone please help me out on the part numbers for this upgrade on a 2018 Colorado ZR2 with 3 prong clock spring?

I did read through the thread but found it a little confusing.
 

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I'm still trying to source the wheel for my 2017 Canyon AT - not an easy part to find at all.
me too, I need a 3 pin, heated, with crash...in cocoa.
 

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So I’ve read through this whole post and I’m wondering 2 things... how do you turn the heated wheel on? I don’t see a separate button etc so does it come on with the seats? Also i have a 2018 Chev Z71 with black interior (wheel). What parts would i need? Seeing all the different options and part numbers everyone listed is quit confusing. Thanks.
 

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So I’ve read through this whole post and I’m wondering 2 things... how do you turn the heated wheel on? I don’t see a separate button etc so does it come on with the seats? Also i have a 2018 Chev Z71 with black interior (wheel). What parts would i need? Seeing all the different options and part numbers everyone listed is quit confusing. Thanks.
The button is circled here.


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I had that button on my Sierra SLT Z71. Now I have a Duramax Colorado Z71 Trail Boss and no button and cheap pleather.😢
 

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I'm new here but have been following this thread awhile. My 2016 GMC Canyon All Terrain doesn't have the wires already but from the research i've done the wheel is just looking for an 12v switched power source. Even if you don't have it in the column you could just as easily cut off the plug in the column(coming from the clock spring), make a new connection and run a couple of 18 gauge wires to the fuse block and make a spare spot into a switched power source and still maintain an almost stock look and function. The only thing it may not do is come on with remote start but it would still only function when the ignition power is activated. It's only a 2 wire setup so it's just looking for power and ground. I am planning to add it to my 2016 Canyon All Terrain but what i'm going to do is dye the stitching on the wheel to match the red in the rest of my interior. Shouldn't be all too difficult. As a token to show my capabilities i was able to retrofit a C6 Z06 steering wheel into my 2002 Camaro Z28 while maintaining stock steering wheel control function AND moving my cruise control function from the multifunction switch(signal stalk) to the wheel buttons and also retrofit a 2005 Silverado airbag into the corvette airbag cover and it still functions as well :) I also did an ebony pontiac shift knob that has a plus and minus on it that functions as my cutout open and close buttons :)

382734
 

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@ColeTrain84 make sure your airbag system still works. From my understanding there was a change either in the airbag prong or airbag post. This might affect your project.

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@ColeTrain84 make sure your airbag system still works. From my understanding there was a change either in the airbag prong or airbag post. This might affect your project.

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yeah from what i've seen there is a mid-year switch where they went to a 3 post airbag from a 2 post. Mine is a 2 post since it's a 2016(May build) and the 2017 GMC Denali wheel has a model that works for mine. Then i just need the clock spring for it as well. From what i've read elsewhere and also on here, i need to get the correct wheel and clockspring and once i do all i need to do is retrofit the existing clock spring plug for the heat option and run wires to the fuse block and hook it up. I am looking into possibly getting the plug and pins from the newer truck harness so that it looks stock and then getting the correct wire colors and even try and plug it into the correct open position on the fuse block. It'll look stock once i'm done with it.
 
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