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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
There’s been a lot of interest in retrofitting a heated steering wheel into our trucks. What we’ve found for those of us with 2017 models is at least some models have the wire harness for the heat circuit already installed. If you check your fuse panel located behind the passenger side footwell panel and find a spot labeled for heated steering wheel with a fuse installed, there’s a very good chance you already have the wiring installed up the steering column.

I borrowed this picture from a post by Fondupot showing the location of the fuse.



And this is the connector on the steering column. There are two wires, a purple/white with 12 volt switched power and a black ground.



I had my dealer’s parts department look up the parts numbers for the Canyon Denali steering wheel and clock spring. For the steering wheel they listed two numbers, a first design and a second design. Their description only said the 1st design was 2 pin and the 2nd design was 3 pin. I have no clue what that means. My first thought was it referenced the number of pins on the airbag connectors but I’ve since determined that the airbag connectors are on the clock spring and not the wheel harness so that can’t be it. It seems that the part numbers for the 1st design wheels begin with 8404 while the 2nd design begin with 8406. You may need to pop your airbag out in order to determine what the part number is on your current wheel. To further complicate things I’ve found the original part number I was given for the 1st design has been superseded by one starting with 8414.

Part numbers:
1st Design Wheel – 84044764. GMPartsDirect shows this has been superseded by 84147734
2nd Design Wheel – 84068387
Clock Spring – 23407638

If your truck has a black wheel currently, your easiest solution will be to order the Canyon Denali wheel and clock spring, then it’s a simple install, especially if you already have the wiring on the column. If you don’t have the wiring already, you’d have to run your own 12V switched power and ground connections. The issue I ran into is when I was trying to order the wheel using the original number I was given they could never get it shipped. It’s possible the new part number may be available, I haven’t tried ordering one of those as I came up with another solution, detailed in the next post. If your truck has a different color wheel and you don’t want black then your only option will be to follow along with my next post.

If you have a Colorado there’s a question on whether your current airbag will work in a GMC wheel. I have my original Canyon wheel available, if there’s someone in the Denver area willing to pull their airbag for a test fit I’d be happy to come to you so we can answer that question for everyone. The alternative is the Chevy Traverse wheel looks externally identical to the Colorado wheel so it may work in the same way the Acadia wheel worked for me.

For my solution, follow along…
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
First off I want to give props to Scotty47 (Bill). We collaborated on this project and he was the one who came up with the final solution to use a Canyon Denali wheel harness transplanted into an Acadia wheel.

Part Numbers:
Black Wheel – 84047234
Cocoa Wheel – 84047233
Canyon Denali Clock Spring – 23407638
Canyon Denali Heated Wheel Harness – 84248017

What we’re going to do is replace the Acadia wheel harness with one from a Canyon. Once that’s done, the wheel will plug into the Canyon Denali clock spring making for a plug-and-play swap.

Remove the buttons from the back of the wheel.



There’s no quick release on these wiring connectors, you just have to wedge a small flat screwdriver in there to pry it out.



Remove the T20 screws that are under the buttons.



This will release the trim from the upper spokes. There’s a small peg on each spoke pressed into the wheel, they’ll pop loose with little pressure.

The lower spokes are trickier to pop loose. Again there’s a peg on each spoke but these are longer and tighter and are easy to break if you just yank on it. What I found worked well was to get the upper spokes started up and then use a plastic pry tool on the lower sections to work them up slowly.



This is a shot of the lower peg



And this is a shot of the lower spokes showing where the pegs insert



Unplug the front button connectors, these do have quick releases. The trim piece can now be completely removed.
This is sort of what the wheel looks like with the Acadia harness installed. I say sort of because that yellow plug originally had the two airbag connectors attached. In my earlier attempts I’d removed those.



This is the Acadia harness removed



And this is the Canyon Denali wheel harness.



I thought I had a picture of the wheel with the Canyon harness installed but it looks like I missed it. The connector at the lower right of each harness photo is what plugs into the wheel’s own internal heat harness located in the lower right spoke. The Acadia passes its heat power through the one large yellow connector. The Canyon uses a separate two-pin connector.

Once you have the Canyon harness installed into the Acadia wheel just reverse the previous steps to put the trim and buttons back together.

You’re now ready to remove the old wheel and clock spring and install the new ones. If you go forward with these instructions you do so at your own risk, I take no responsibility for any damage or injury.

The first step is to remove the airbag. The critical thing to remember is the bag MUST be depowered before you start messing with it. I unhooked my negative cable and then waited 30 minutes before I went forward.


Once the airbag is out use a small flat screwdriver to pry up the orange connector locks, then the connectors will pop out of the bag.









If you have the tilt/telesoping wheel set it to its lowest and furthest out position.

Disconnect the wheel harness from clock spring.

Remove the steering wheel bolt using a T50 socket.





The steering shaft on our trucks is not tapered like older vehicles. Once you have that bolt out the wheel will pull right off with gentle pressure.

Remove the column shroud. First remove the top piece. There’s a small plastic tab on either side of the clock spring on the pieces of the shroud that stick down lower. Use a small screwdriver or plastic pry tool to pop those loose. I wasn’t aware of these and managed to break them because I pried up on the sides first. It doesn’t appear to cause any problems but you can learn from my mistake.



These are a couple shots of the tabs that connect the upper shroud to the lower.





You have to turn the shroud almost 90 degrees and wedge it out over the wiper stalk. It’s tight but you can do it without having to remove the instrument panel.

Now loosen the lower shroud. There are two 7mm screws on the front and one on the bottom. You don’t need to completely remove the lower shroud, once those three screws are out the shroud will drop enough let you access the screws that hold the clock spring.





Disconnect the wiring connectors from the backside of the clock spring. The main harness is a simple quick disconnect. The yellow airbag connector has an orange lock which must be pried out, then it has a quick release tab. This pic is a bit out of order because the clock spring is already removed but it was a better shot of the connectors than I was able to get before removing the clock spring.



And now remove the clock spring itself. There are four Philips screws that hold it, they’re the silver screws you see in this shot. Once those are out it will slip right off.



Install the new Denali clock spring. I intended to get some pictures of it before install but it looks like I forgot. It looks identical to the original with the addition of a two-wire connector coming in the back and then another out the front. Both are on the lower part of the spring so the incoming wiring needs to go under the shaft and then plugs into the harness connector that comes up the steering shaft.

Reinstall the column shroud. This is what the front of the clock spring looks like installed. The upper connectors are identical to the original clock spring. The two wires and connector on the lower part are the heat power connector. There’s also an orange lock that keeps the spring from turning until you’re ready to release it.



Install the new wheel. The airbag connectors need to be fed through the upper hole, the power connector and that orange locking tab feed through the lower hole. Connect the main harness connector to the clock spring. Connect the power connector to the matching connector on the wheel harness.



Hook your battery back up temporarily and test the heat function to make sure it’s working. If all goes well you should feel it beginning to heat within about 15 seconds, mine gets nice and toasty in about 30 seconds. Install the steering wheel bolt. I’m sure there’s a proper torque spec for it but I was unable to find it so I just made it “tight” without overdoing it. Disconnect the battery again and wait a bit before continuing, I gave it another 30 minutes.

Make sure all the wiring is tucked up nicely so nothing causes interference with the horn contacts or where the airbag will reside. Insert the airbag, you simply line it up and push, it’ll click into place.

Hook the battery back up for good and test again to make sure everything works. You should see a nice glowing light next to the heated wheel button when it's activated.

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
It was reported in another thread that the Colorado airbag part number was the same as for the Canyon. I now see that the outer shell has a separate part number and the bag itself just clips inside. I took some rough measurements of my Canyon bag, if someone has a Colorado bag available maybe these will give us an idea if that bag will fit in a Canyon wheel. Again, I’ll offer to meet with someone in the Denver area for an actual fitment test if someone wants.















 

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I've been following along in the other thread anxiously awaiting confirmation of this mod. Never knew I'd want it so bad til I was on vacation a couple weeks ago up in Colorado and it was in the teens and single digits. Had a new equinox as a rental and it had every option imaginable, including heated steering wheel. What a diffeit makes on a cold morning not having to hold onto a cold ass wheel.

Thank you for your efforts! Will be ordering one for my all terrain soon!

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
 

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Awesome work guys. I have an all terrain with the red stitching so it looks like I am out of luck here for a swap. I don't think there is anything with the red stitches and heated wheel.

Sent from my BLN-L24 using Tapatalk
 

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Nicely done.


I already had the heated wheel but had a lot of interest in what it would take to add and who would solve this dilemma first.


It is a great edition to any truck and now with this sorted out more can enjoy!


I wonder if the 2 pin and three pin may have to do with the addition of the coming auto heated wheel. They have added this to the Acadia Denali where with Remote Start you can program the wheel to heat up on the 18 models.
I am not sure but I think the 18 Denali Canyon got it too?
 

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Would it be possible to remove all the innards of the wheel and transplant it into an all terrain wheel with the red stitching? want to do this mod but then the wheel won't match :(
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Awesome work guys. I have an all terrain with the red stitching so it looks like I am out of luck here for a swap. I don't think there is anything with the red stitches and heated wheel.

Sent from my BLN-L24 using Tapatalk
Would it be possible to remove all the innards of the wheel and transplant it into an all terrain wheel with the red stitching? want to do this mod but then the wheel won't match :(
I'm not sure if there's a heated wheel with red stitching but I kind of doubt it. You couldn't just pull the innards out of the heated wheel because the heat is provided by some kind of a winding underneath the leather. The only possibility I could think of would be to get the heated wheel and then send it to one of these companies that does custom wheels and have them redo the stitching in red. I have no clue how much that would cost, could get pretty pricey by the time you're done.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nicely done.


I already had the heated wheel but had a lot of interest in what it would take to add and who would solve this dilemma first.


It is a great edition to any truck and now with this sorted out more can enjoy!


I wonder if the 2 pin and three pin may have to do with the addition of the coming auto heated wheel. They have added this to the Acadia Denali where with Remote Start you can program the wheel to heat up on the 18 models.
I am not sure but I think the 18 Denali Canyon got it too?
I really have no clue. If you ask me though I prefer having the heat setup the way it is now because it's easy to retrofit with no reprogramming necessary. It heats up so fast that having it come on with the remote start is not necessary at all. I can literally begin to feel it warming in about 15 seconds. 30 seconds and it's getting fairly warm, one minute and it's at full strength. If they make it programmable then that'd mean you'd have to have the dealer program the BCM if you wanted to retrofit.
 

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I really have no clue. If you ask me though I prefer having the heat setup the way it is now because it's easy to retrofit with no reprogramming necessary. It heats up so fast that having it come on with the remote start is not necessary at all. I can literally begin to feel it warming in about 15 seconds. 30 seconds and it's getting fairly warm, one minute and it's at full strength. If they make it programmable then that'd mean you'd have to have the dealer program the BCM if you wanted to retrofit.
That was what I thought when I saw they were offering remote start on wheels now.

Mine too starts to get hot in 15 seconds too.
 

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Heated wheel swap

Gary,
That is really a nice write up, I hope others take advantage of the time and effort that we put into this project to make it PLUG & PLAY “ well worth the effort “ THANKS AGAIN !
 

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Means you'll be waiting until they get the traverse on the parts program. I've been checking each week to get the PN.

One question @gdl, do you know which wire is actuated by the button above the heater? I might run something off that button, but I don't know which wire in the Denali harness to connect.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
One question @gdl, do you know which wire is actuated by the button above the heater? I might run something off that button, but I don't know which wire in the Denali harness to connect.
I'm afraid I don't know the answer to that one. When I was working on my original theory of repinning the harness connectors I mapped out the wire colors that pass through the main harness but I didn't have any way of telling what was the function of each wire. I can only narrow it down a little. There are four wires on the left button pad that pass through the main connector, red, light blue, pink/black and gray. It appears that maybe the red and light blue are paired, and the pink/black and gray are paired but that's just a guess based on the fact that they're pinned next to each other in the button connector.
I don't know what you're planning to run off that button but keep in mind that the electrical traces on the ribbon wire within the clock spring are tiny and won't hold much power. It wouldn't take much to burn it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Does anyone know if the Chevy airbag will fit the Denali steering wheel?
I don't believe anyone knows for certain yet. I've offered to meet up with anyone in the Denver area who wants to pull their Colorado airbag and do a test fit into my old Canyon wheel but so far no takers.
 

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Hey so here is a question for you; The top button on the steering wheel, could you get that light that goes in the dash and make that function?
 
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