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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been seeking options to power the OEM light bar on the OEM sport bar and it will cost me $200 in parts plus a $100 flash to buy the stock harness and switch or a local shop quoted me $300 to run a switch but my cousin said he could help me for under $20. He said I should just use a remote switch, see attached, and wire the third brake light into the trailer harness. Are there any problems with this method? Any better remote switch to use?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Logisys-...tiser_id=4c8e73aa-a49a-44f1-8b59-45a7f80c1e75
 

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I have been seeking options to power the OEM light bar on the OEM sport bar and it will cost me $200 in parts plus a $100 flash to buy the stock harness and switch or a local shop quoted me $300 to run a switch but my cousin said he could help me for under $20. He said I should just use a remote switch, see attached, and wire the third brake light into the trailer harness. Are there any problems with this method? Any better remote switch to use?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Logisys-...tiser_id=4c8e73aa-a49a-44f1-8b59-45a7f80c1e75
First, there is no way to wire the third brake light into the trailer harness. The wire that is indicated as brake on a 7 wire is for electric brakes and uses a variable voltage for applying the brakes. It is also not active unless a brake controller is installed. The LH and RH indicators double as the "brake lights". There are adapter boxes out there to turn these 2 signals into a third brake light signal but they are pricey.

The relay box will work for the lights. I prefer a hardwired switch myself but this will work. If it were me and I didnt' have the money for the OEM harness/switch/programming and I didn't want to wire in my own switch I might look at using the third brake light on the cab of the truck for the third brake light on the sport bar and use the bed lights in the same housing to activate a relay to power the auxiliary lights. That way there is a switch in the cab of the truck already built in to activate them. You could also use the gm upfitters guide to track down the wiring for the third brake light/bed lights to accomplish the same thing without tapping into the housing itself.

-Curtiss
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First, there is no way to wire the third brake light into the trailer harness. The wire that is indicated as brake on a 7 wire is for electric brakes and uses a variable voltage for applying the brakes. It is also not active unless a brake controller is installed. The LH and RH indicators double as the "brake lights". There are adapter boxes out there to turn these 2 signals into a third brake light signal but they are pricey.

The relay box will work for the lights. I prefer a hardwired switch myself but this will work. If it were me and I didnt' have the money for the OEM harness/switch/programming and I didn't want to wire in my own switch I might look at using the third brake light on the cab of the truck for the third brake light on the sport bar and use the bed lights in the same housing to activate a relay to power the auxiliary lights. That way there is a switch in the cab of the truck already built in to activate them. You could also use the gm upfitters guide to track down the wiring for the third brake light/bed lights to accomplish the same thing without tapping into the housing itself.

-Curtiss
I decided to wire this myself with the wireless relay. I ordered [ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XYVBGM6/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame] and I think it is going to be pretty cool. It has three leads so if I put some more lights on the front later it should be pretty simple to install after this and I can always run a switch into the cab later if I so choose. The fob has a strobe mode for the lights for me to play with and because I am a big child I like that.

I've got it planned out in my head and I think running the relay to the lights shouldn't be a problem. There are three wires feeding from the OEM connector that I will have to cut off and I am guessing two of them are the + and - of the lights and the third is the third brake light. So I run the relay from the battery along the path that the OEM cable would go to the + and - cables coming off the light and now I have a power and a wireless switch. But if you are telling me that I cant tap into the trailer lights then I'm going to have to figure out where to run that third brake light wire. The cab is right there but I'm trying to do this without having any wires exposed so I'm not sure how to best tap that third brake light. I saw one guy run a wire through the weather seal and then to the brake light but I'm just seeing that getting hit or something and having problems down the road. I'm thinking maybe it would be best to just run it with the relay wires into the engine bay but then I'll have to find something with a brake light signal and that will be fun.
 
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