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Discussion Starter #1
So the insurance company finally got back to me about a previous accident I was involved in on 10/22/19. I was not held at fault at all, as I was rear-ended due to the other driver being on his phone. Now the insurance company is looking to only give me $500 in a diminished value claim unless I come up with some solid evidence to show that my Colly has lost more value. I have attached pictures below. Any links or ideas would be greatly appreciated. I had bought the truck 5 weeks before the accident and as a certified pre-owned. Looking to make this headache go away and not suffer a loss because of someone else's incompetence. For those wondering, it is a 2018 CCSB in Kinetic Blue Metallic and I had put 1200 miles on it before the accident had happened. Bought at 19,014 miles and had the crash occur at 20,2xx. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
 

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So a bumper and labor is only 500 bucks to them. That doesn't include the rental car you will need to fix it.

Call your insurance company and let them deal with it. That's what they are getting paid for.

So what did they go total your truck and are giving you 500 bucks less than you paid for it?
 

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So it was 3400 worth of damage which they charged to the other guys insurance. But now that the car has an accident reported on it it is going to lose value because no one will want to buy a vehicle with a record (some may but it would be a much smaller market). But this would bring the total value of the truck down which is what diminished value is supposed to cover. It is supposed to be the difference in the value if the car hadn’t been in an accident as opposed to what it will now be worth with the accident history. I hope that clarifies a little better
 

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Sadly, Insurance companies, lawyers, accountants, and pharmaceutical companies have us by the shorties......
Major suckage to get rear-ended by someone probably texting their "boo" about what time the movie starts:rolleyes:...
Concur with bikermutha.....call your insurance co. and be nice.....until it's time to not be nice anymore and argue. Might as well get your moneys worth out of those premiums.....
 

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@Dmross11 Well it seems as if it is time to argue about it unfortunately. I was told I would have this information 2 weeks ago, and after a week of radio silence, I was finally told yesterday that it was a $500 offer. The real shitty part is, when I enter the VIN on Car Gurus and compare it to similar models (2018 Z71 CCSB with 20-30k Miles) it shows about a $4000 difference. I wouldn't be so bothered if it was like $1000 and they offered $500 because it makes sense that way. But when it shows a difference that drastic, it makes me want to drop a bunch of information on them and tell them to suck it.
 

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Based on my last vehicle that was in an accident this is what I ran into.

The accident was where I was run off the road by a Cell Phone driver texting that turned in front of me and stopped across my lane. I ran off the road and into a ditch. the car had a low air dam and bumper and it smashed the inter-cooler and radiator. The bumper cover was also ripped up. But the major issue was the air bag and seat belts went off.

The accident was totally covered and no sheet metal was damaged or replaced. The car was put back to new and no issues. When I bought my truck the dealer was very interested in a trade due to the condition I kept the vehicle in. But they ran the report and they saw the air bag went off.

I had a talk to the dealer manager and he said they no longer will touch trades with air bag deployments on their record. Minor accidents they did not have an issue with but air bags were the sticking block for them. He said in the past people used to walk the used lots looking at cars and after seeing the condition the past really did not mean much. But today they surf the web and if there is an air bag issue no one comes in.

I was not upset as they gave me a couple thousand not to go after them after the accident that more than covered any worries. I had planned on selling my vehicle outright and I got top dollar for it even with showing the buyer the car fax report. Add the pay out on top I actually did very well and had a major down payment on my truck.

In my case the pay out was just an added bonus I would not have had if I had just sold my car without the accident.

As long as the bag did not go off and the repair is done properly to where it can not be detected I don't see you having an issue based on my past experience. I know cases may vary so you still have to decide but my fears were unfounded for the 10 years from the accident to the sale.

The key thing I had many tell me was the air bag is the major thing people look at and minor fender bender deals are not generally an issue if the repair was done right and the condition of the vehicle is good.
 

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One other issue on my Father In laws last truck. He had a 2012 Silverado and that got backed into by a large truck. It damaged the bumper and broke the tail lamp similar to yours. Later he backed into a poll with the tailgate down and dented it. Both were replaced. He traded for a new Chevy and never had an issue with the dealer trade and got top dollar. His repairs were done well and he also truck was in very good condition. He came out ok.
 

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@hyperv6 So would it be worth bringing to a few dealers and trying to see what they value the truck at to have a real world number? That way I can use that information to squeeze out a little more? I just feel $500 isn't enough to cover the value lost. I also forgot to mention that when it was "fixed" the shop took 3 weeks to repair, and for 2 of those weeks it was accumulating dust in their shop. It also never had the license plates wired up before being given back to me. They just took the lights off the old bumper and shoved them into the spare tire..
 

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@hyperv6 So would it be worth bringing to a few dealers and trying to see what they value the truck at to have a real world number? That way I can use that information to squeeze out a little more? I just feel $500 isn't enough to cover the value lost. I also forgot to mention that when it was "fixed" the shop took 3 weeks to repair, and for 2 of those weeks it was accumulating dust in their shop. It also never had the license plates wired up before being given back to me. They just took the lights off the old bumper and shoved them into the spare tire..
If you have a salesman or someone at a dealer you trust you can get their opinion on how much and if it would affect the value at all. It still could vary from dealer to dealer. Also if you sell it out right it very well may not have much affect at all.

As for the 3 weeks let it go. If they did a good job asking for those three weeks is a bit petty. They do have to order parts and scheduled work. Mine took 2 months because the parts availability was limited on the SS model.

To be honest you may be way over thinking this. In my case it was a days old new HHR SS. It had over $8,000 due to the air bags and related issues. Like I said no sheet metal was bent on the outside but the mounts for the IC and other detail things added up. The shop did all new GM parts and to be honest it was better than new when I got it back as the hood was lined up better than new.

I carried the burden for 10 years worried I would take a hit. In the end I paid around $21K for the vehicle. I sold it for over $12K which was top dollar for that vehicle with that many miles. I kept it in top condition and I did not run the piss out of it like many others had. Take the price I paid and what I sold it for I did well. The added money was just a bonus and I would never had asked for it as all I wanted was my car fixed right. Getting over 60% paid back on a 10 year old HHR was not a bad deal.

From what I see your damage was not major. I assume it was repaired to as new condition. Also factor in this is a truck and no air bag went off. I really don't see you loosing much if any value here unless you have a dealer trade that may take issue. If you keep it in good condition and sell it outright you will get top dollar as condition trumps all as well demand for trucks.

My wife's GTP got backed into right before we traded it. It dented the door/quarter also tore the bumper cover. The trade it was a non factor. The condition of the car was good enough the dealer did not care and there was no air bag deployed.

To be honest the lost value is a deep dark hole that people get caught up in. Some lose and many are not affected. There is little out on it as companies don't like to talk about it. The main key is if the bags blow it can be a factor depending on how you plan to dispose of the the vehicle. But depending on what it is and condition you can sell it out right and not lose anything. If I had traded mine they low balled me. But selling it out right I did just fine. The variables here can make you a winner or loser depending on how you deal with it.
The real factor is personal injury. If you were hurt they will cave to many wishes as it gives you much more leverage. I did get cut and burned in my crash by the bag and that is why I think I got the offer of money to sign the release. They were minor but If I had gotten a lawyer involved it could have cost them more money and I would have had to take a percentage.

The long and short of this based on what I see in the photo's the odds are good you will not be hurt by this in the end. Keep the truck in good shape and that will garner you more money in the end.
 

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Sadly, Insurance companies, lawyers, accountants, and pharmaceutical companies have us by the shorties......
Major suckage to get rear-ended by someone probably texting their "boo" about what time the movie starts:rolleyes:...
Concur with bikermutha.....call your insurance co. and be nice.....until it's time to not be nice anymore and argue. Might as well get your moneys worth out of those premiums.....
A few points.

1. Insurance companies try to reduce payouts in order to keep premiums low, so they can compete with other insurance companies. It sucks when you're trying to get paid, but it's better when you're paying your premiums.

2. This would be the other driver's insurance company, so it has nothing to do with getting the money out of premiums.

3. I think I managed to negotiate $1,500 on my Subaru's accident. It was a bit more extensive in that the front bumper cover was ripped right off the car, the hood and left quarter panel slightly damaged and pushed out of alignment.

4. If you don't settle they will likely keep calling you back every month to get this off their books. That could give you an opportunity to negotiate further. If they don't settle you can probably sue their insured, and that might get them moving up a bit.
 

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Damn! Id rather eat the steering wheel
Than have that air bag go off!
 

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Commentary about buying used cars at dealers and CarFax not being worth the bytes it's written in aside, I've totaled a few cars, been my own lawyer in one case very successfully, assisted friends in another...

THIS IS NOT LEGAL ADVICE AND MAY NOT EVEN BE GOOD ADVICE; HEED AT YOUR PERIL!

Here's the skinny as I see it (only because you asked): read your policy closely. If it is as you say vis a vis the value delta between yours and what the industry calls comps, you need to produce some comps for your insurance company. If they're any good, they'll hand those off to the third party adjuster and they'll assess your comps versus theirs. Typically, the deal with this is that they must be the same model year or ONE NEWER, in the same market, at a licensed dealer, options and condition matter HUGE, and know your deadlines.

Model year caveat: You can play the one year newer card, but do so very carefully. If you come in with all +1s, you smell bad and are less likely to be taken seriously. Sprinkle them in carefully and strategically.

Same market: with such a new vehicle this shouldn't be a problem. Keep it close, and certainly keep it in state. If you're dealing with special interest and classics, comps at dealers become hens teeth and you may be dealing with whole country searches, but these ain't that special.

Licensed dealer: Craigslist counts IF it's a dealer ad. Private party does you nothing because People Are Stupid. This mostly works in your favor though, because People Are Stupid and for some reason think dealer cars are worth more despite being the exact same product just without any history and with an extra helping of lies and/or ignorance.

Options: At this point, you've probably already received a report that lists comps. Take a good look and see how things are quantified. You may be surprised to see that such an such an option is worth more or less than you'd think. I.e., the BE (Big Engine) is often the most expensive option, but stereos sometimes count disproportionately; things like that. If you have a WT and produce a bunch of ZR2s, that option calculus will hurt you badly. Get as similar as you can save for any options you see that seem to be valued highly that you have and they don't. This may require more information than you have available to you, so don't get too worked up over it. In that case, just aim for as close as you can find to your own truck.

Condition: Maintenance means WAY more than miles, but only when you're not an insurance actuary. This is the main consideration for condition... My guess is because it's easily quantifiable, and it's difficult to assign points based on misspelled, poorly written descriptions, grainy photos, and a heaping helping of lies of omission. Best thing here is, again, get close. If you're going to try to game anything, you want comps with higher miles. You bought a used car at a dealer, so you can't value previous maintenance anyway.

Deadlines: Don't be in a hurry without a really good reason. Take your time. Do it right. Haste makes for stupid mistakes.

Doing this, I've always managed to scratch back at least a few hundred dollars. I'm sure they throw you something just for trying, but it can't hurt anyway. My sample size isn't huge, but out of... five? I've either come out ahead or at least covered a chunk of the deductible.
 

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@Dmross11 Well it seems as if it is time to argue about it unfortunately. I was told I would have this information 2 weeks ago, and after a week of radio silence, I was finally told yesterday that it was a $500 offer. The real shitty part is, when I enter the VIN on Car Gurus and compare it to similar models (2018 Z71 CCSB with 20-30k Miles) it shows about a $4000 difference. I wouldn't be so bothered if it was like $1000 and they offered $500 because it makes sense that way. But when it shows a difference that drastic, it makes me want to drop a bunch of information on them and tell them to suck it.
Go about all this with wise counsel.....research as much as you can, and good luck getting this worked out. It can be tiresome, frustrating and aggravating. Look forward, and in a year from now this will hopefully be a "I learned a lot about that" moment. Good luck, brotha.
 

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After having to have my bumper replaced right rear quarter repainted new tail light assembly due to getting hit in a parking lot. Thank goodness they left a note. I battled with the insurance company for a fee to cover the deprecate due to the accident, but due to the state I live in no such luck. So for now I am just happy my truck looks like new and no one was hurt.
 

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Call a professional appraiser. You'll pay a little bit of money. But it will save you money in the long run.

Get the appraiser to specify value lost due to damage and repairs.

But, if you had cosmetic damage only, and it was fully repaired by a certified shop, you probably didn't lose any value.
 

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But, if you had cosmetic damage only, and it was fully repaired by a certified shop, you probably didn't lose any value.
I think the key is whether an accident shows up on reports. If so, they don't really break down how bad it was. I'm though assuming a dealer trade. For a private party transaction it probably would be a good idea to have pictures and repair invoices.
 

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Sadly in my younger days I had a few accidents.
It is always best to go through your own insurance company because your vehicle will get fixed first.
No all accidents end up on your vehicles record.
The most important thing is that the vehicle gets properly fixed. If not fixed it will get a diminished value, due to non-repaired damages
 

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There seems to be some good advice presented in this thread. I would turn it over to your insurance company & work with them and a body shop with a good reputation. If things don’t go as you expect, there are attorneys that love to handle rear collisions involving cell phone users. Good providence!
 

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Damn! Id rather eat the steering wheel
Than have that air bag go off!
I've eaten steering wheel... Snorted it would be more accurate... I'm not sure I'd agree.
Good news for the both of you! Today, I am replacing my Z71 regular steering wheel with a new heated steering wheel.

My old one will be up for sale to the highest bidder. So, if you prefer to chew your leather right off the wheel or ground up to a snuff like consistency I’m here for ya.

As they say, first come first served.
Gusto!
 
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