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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Six weeks ago I decided to upgrade my 2005 Colly to a 2017 Colorado 4X4 from a dealership in Lexington Ky and have immediately regretted it. I've had to return the truck to the dealer twice and it sits there right now as I speak. A couple of other unrelated issues they have repaired it appears but I have been left with an apparent battery draw issue which will render the truck dead after sitting 2-3 days. The service writer called me today to ask how long the truck has sat when the battery has gone dead. I figured this was because they have had the truck for about 2 and a half days and it continues to start up okay so far. However, he was mainly wanting to inform me that if the truck sits for five days or more, it is pretty much normal it will drain enough for a no-start condition to occur. My BS meter was nearly pegged out following that comment. As a former ASE GM dealer mechanic I was suspicious of the accuracy of this comment, however, I retired from turning wrenches 25 years ago and I know much has changed since then. I am not up on the new stuff at all.

The first time I took it back to them, they replaced the battery and said that was my problem. Well, obviously it wasn't as three days later the truck was dead again. The truck had sat unstarted during those three days. I have looked closely to see if anything is staying on and found nothing that is. I have no aftermarket add-on stuff, everything appears stock as the truck came when new. The charging system appears to be working properly. So, if these trucks are really made to where five days is all they are good for to start the truck, I will be trading it away soon. That would mean if I flew out of town and elected to leave my truck in long-term parking at the airport, I best get back before five days or else face a dead battery. Who would manufacture such a vehicle?

Since my trust in this dealer is already diminished, what is the best method to test for a draw of this vehicle? I have an inductive clamp-on volt-ohm-amp meter. There appear to be four large wires coming off the positive side of the battery. Do I check for a draw on each one? I realize the problem could be intermittent which always makes it more of a challenge to isolate. I'm highly anticipating the service writer calling sometime next week to say, "well, everything looks good, no problems found!" Thanks for any suggestions or input on this issue.
 

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1. I leave my truck for 7-14 days all the time with no trickle and it starts every time (even with a 4.5yo battery).

2. I would use your hall/amp sensor on the big red guy under the cover (yours will look different, couldn't find a stock picture), sorry. The gmupfitters manual (free electrical diagrams of the entire vehicle) will tell you what each individual one is. You could even try disconnecting them to isolate which one is draining the battery ?

But regardless, not normal for it to die so quickly.

You could also take voltage after shutoff, turn on lights to take off top charge, then take again. Take it again every 12hrs or so until it's dead ?

Motor vehicle Gas Engineering Auto part Automotive exterior
 

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With electrical, never rule out anything and test everything!! Easier said than done I know but people jump to conclusions in person and on forums all the time. Without actual tests and data those "opinions" are a dime a dozen IMO...
Sucks, but it is what it is and why generally the electrical diagnostic shops charge by the hour and not by the job. You'd be surprised how often a 3-6 year old mod comes back to haunt you... :(
 

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If the f44 accessory fuse is moved to the F40 slot it will leave anything in your aux plugs powered all the time, also your foot well/cup holder lights(if you have them) can be left on 24/7
I moved my f44 fuse plus added a aux plug in the bed so I can run and or charge a couple things over night. Like an o-zone machine in a tote with my hunting clothes/boots/pack.
I leave my footwell/cupholder lights on 24/7 and may not start the truck for a week

this fuse panel is behind the passenger side kick panel
 

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2022 Colorado Z71 4WD Crew Cab
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The first time I went to test drive a 2022 Z71 in my area, the battery was dead on the lot. The salesperson had to get someone to jump it. It made me wonder if there was some issue. I thought it odd that a brand new vehicle had a dead battery. I'm not sure if that's normal for cars to be dead on the lot. But maybe you are on to something.
 
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The first time I went to test drive a 2022 Z71 in my area, the battery was dead on the lot. The salesperson had to get someone to jump it. It made me wonder if there was some issue. I thought it odd that a brand new vehicle had a dead battery. I'm not sure if that's normal for cars to be dead on the lot. But maybe you are on to something.
It’s not that uncommon for a battery to die at dealerships.

Unfortuantely once a battery dies it’s life span deteriorates drastically even if it seems to work fine after a jump start. This also means it is more likely to die which decreases life further. It’s a feedback loop until it goes kapluck.
 

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2017 Chevy Colorado Z71 Extended Cab 4WD Summit White
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I just shipped mine back from Italy that took two months and it started right up. I would throw the BS flag on five days.
 

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I just shipped mine back from Italy that took two months and it started right up. I would throw the BS flag on five days.
Maybe I should rephrase what I said. The way dealerships handle vehicles makes them ripe to run the battery down which damages them. It's not that the truck is designed like that.

For @sgt-major , testing a parasitic load is complicated. You should park the truck, open the hood, turn the key off, and then go eat dinner. At least an hour. Then snap your current clamp to the negative cable to the battery. Do not open the doors. Do not press your key fob.

If it's more than 200mA. You have a problem.
If it's more than 100mA............... I don't know. Maybe.
If it's like 50mA or less you're good to go.

If your current clamp is sensitive enough you'll probably get some random spikes of 100mA to 300mA. Those are fine.

If you must access the inside you can find something to jam in the door latch. Also you should probably lock the doors but this isn't 100% required.
 

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Also for anyone reading in the future... If you used Gretio to enable Afterblow.

The afterblow will start after 30 minutes. It's maybe a solid 100mA extra draw continous and obviously alot more while the fan is running. You will either need to wait 90 minutes for the cycle to finish or disable it.

If you don't disable it and the fan doesn't run after 30 minutes then it probably shut off. Sometimes it just decides not to run.
 

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Maybe I should rephrase what I said. The way dealerships handle vehicles makes them ripe to run the battery down which damages them. It's not that the truck is designed like that.

For @sgt-major , testing a parasitic load is complicated. You should park the truck, open the hood, turn the key off, and then go eat dinner. At least an hour. Then snap your current clamp to the negative cable to the battery. Do not open the doors. Do not press your key fob.

If it's more than 200mA. You have a problem.
If it's more than 100mA............... I don't know. Maybe.
If it's like 50mA or less you're good to go.

If your current clamp is sensitive enough you'll probably get some random spikes of 100mA to 300mA. Those are fine.

If you must access the inside you can find something to jam in the door latch. Also you should probably lock the doors but this isn't 100% required.
Why the negative ? Convenience ?

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If the f44 accessory fuse is moved to the F40 slot it will leave anything in your aux plugs powered all the time, also your foot well/cup holder lights(if you have them) can be left on 24/7
I moved my f44 fuse plus added a aux plug in the bed so I can run and or charge a couple things over night.
I leave my footwell/cupholder lights on 24/7 and may not start the truck for a week

this fuse panel is behind the passenger side kick panel
Good info to know, I would not have thought of that at all. Thanks, Hunter
 

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Why the negative ? Convenience ?

More or less. It doesn’t really matter though. But those cables are right there and don’t require you to pop off the battery cover thing. And I’m also sure some of us have broken our fair share of those covers….
 

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Six weeks ago I decided to upgrade my 2005 Colly to a 2017 Colorado 4X4 from a dealership in Lexington Ky and have immediately regretted it. I've had to return the truck to the dealer twice and it sits there right now as I speak. A couple of other unrelated issues they have repaired it appears but I have been left with an apparent battery draw issue which will render the truck dead after sitting 2-3 days. The service writer called me today to ask how long the truck has sat when the battery has gone dead. I figured this was because they have had the truck for about 2 and a half days and it continues to start up okay so far. However, he was mainly wanting to inform me that if the truck sits for five days or more, it is pretty much normal it will drain enough for a no-start condition to occur. My BS meter was nearly pegged out following that comment. As a former ASE GM dealer mechanic I was suspicious of the accuracy of this comment, however, I retired from turning wrenches 25 years ago and I know much has changed since then. I am not up on the new stuff at all.

The first time I took it back to them, they replaced the battery and said that was my problem. Well, obviously it wasn't as three days later the truck was dead again. The truck had sat unstarted during those three days. I have looked closely to see if anything is staying on and found nothing that is. I have no aftermarket add-on stuff, everything appears stock as the truck came when new. The charging system appears to be working properly. So, if these trucks are really made to where five days is all they are good for to start the truck, I will be trading it away soon. That would mean if I flew out of town and elected to leave my truck in long-term parking at the airport, I best get back before five days or else face a dead battery. Who would manufacture such a vehicle?

Since my trust in this dealer is already diminished, what is the best method to test for a draw of this vehicle? I have an inductive clamp-on volt-ohm-amp meter. There appear to be four large wires coming off the positive side of the battery. Do I check for a draw on each one? I realize the problem could be intermittent which always makes it more of a challenge to isolate. I'm highly anticipating the service writer calling sometime next week to say, "well, everything looks good, no problems found!" Thanks for any suggestions or input on this issue.
Six weeks ago I decided to upgrade my 2005 Colly to a 2017 Colorado 4X4 from a dealership in Lexington Ky and have immediately regretted it. I've had to return the truck to the dealer twice and it sits there right now as I speak. A couple of other unrelated issues they have repaired it appears but I have been left with an apparent battery draw issue which will render the truck dead after sitting 2-3 days. The service writer called me today to ask how long the truck has sat when the battery has gone dead. I figured this was because they have had the truck for about 2 and a half days and it continues to start up okay so far. However, he was mainly wanting to inform me that if the truck sits for five days or more, it is pretty much normal it will drain enough for a no-start condition to occur. My BS meter was nearly pegged out following that comment. As a former ASE GM dealer mechanic I was suspicious of the accuracy of this comment, however, I retired from turning wrenches 25 years ago and I know much has changed since then. I am not up on the new stuff at all.

The first time I took it back to them, they replaced the battery and said that was my problem. Well, obviously it wasn't as three days later the truck was dead again. The truck had sat unstarted during those three days. I have looked closely to see if anything is staying on and found nothing that is. I have no aftermarket add-on stuff, everything appears stock as the truck came when new. The charging system appears to be working properly. So, if these trucks are really made to where five days is all they are good for to start the truck, I will be trading it away soon. That would mean if I flew out of town and elected to leave my truck in long-term parking at the airport, I best get back before five days or else face a dead battery. Who would manufacture such a vehicle?

Since my trust in this dealer is already diminished, what is the best method to test for a draw of this vehicle? I have an inductive clamp-on volt-ohm-amp meter. There appear to be four large wires coming off the positive side of the battery. Do I check for a draw on each one? I realize the problem could be intermittent which always makes it more of a challenge to isolate. I'm highly anticipating the service writer calling sometime next week to say, "well, everything looks good, no problems found!" Thanks for any suggestions or input on this issue.
Does it have a aftermarket alarm,starter interlock or Lojak type device?
 

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More or less. It doesn’t really matter though. But those cables are right there and don’t require you to pop off the battery cover thing. And I’m also sure some of us have broken our fair share of those covers….
haha including me. So good point. Negative probably easier but either will work.
 
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