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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2004 and it recently started running very poorly. It starts fine, but when I start heading down the street, it begins to chug, will not accelerate beyond 20mph (even with the gas to the floor) and if I pull over the idle is very rough sounding as if it may stall. After about a mile all these symptoms go away and it seems to run fine once it warms up.

I have read about cleaning the Throttle Body and am aware of the intake valve seat extended warranty.

Does anyone know what could be causing this?
 

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My daughter had a similar situation with her little chevy car I think it was an 04 too and hers was a stopped up cataletic converter. Just a thought?
 

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Check your spark plugs.
 

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maybe another thought...could it be a clogged fuel pump? not getting enough gas? just a thought.
 

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I have heard of this, I think it is in the owners manual, and is called Limp mode, the computer will shut down all power to the engine but will run so you can get it to a repair shop, cause of this is engine failure or computer failure, try to diconnect the battery for 15 min, and see if this will work, and also check timing chain or belt, cam position, Or like said above a sensor But it does sound like it is in limp mode or safety mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
After a mile of chugging along, it all of a sudden accelerates and runs as if everything is normal until I shut it off and it sits for a while. It has even backfired on two occasions. This couldn't be "limp mode" could it?
 

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Yes, sounds like timing issue
 

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Man......... all these what ifs but really we have no clue as we can't see whats going on. I say take it to the dealer asap before you damage anything.
 

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turbizzy said:
Man......... all these what ifs but really we have no clue as we can't see whats going on. I say take it to the dealer asap before you damage anything.
I second that. Let us know the results. Good luck with it.
 

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If it is the MAF sensor, start it up and let it idle, then tap on the MAF sensor body with something heavy. A hammer works, just don;t break anything. You can do this test when it is running good or running bad. If it changes the trucks behaviour, then it is the MAF. If it is, then make sure you get a replacement from the dealer, as an aftermarket MAF can cause trouble too.

-Geoff
 

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SomeGeoffGuy said:
If it is the MAF sensor, start it up and let it idle, then tap on the MAF sensor body with something heavy. A hammer works, just don;t break anything. You can do this test when it is running good or running bad. If it changes the trucks behaviour, then it is the MAF. If it is, then make sure you get a replacement from the dealer, as an aftermarket MAF can cause trouble too.

-Geoff
Whoa a hammer :shock: uhh yea if the MAF wasn't bad before then its sure going to be bad after you do that :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just put in AC Delco Iridium plugs this morning and gently cleaned the MAF sensor (without using a hammer). The plugs I took out were also AC Delco Iridium and I'm not sure if they are stock on the 2004 Canyon, but they looked terrible!! The carbon deposit was quite thick that you could even blow off carbon dust with your mouth (mileage on these plugs is unknown). I don't have a gap tool or I'd measure because there is not much left of the iridium point at all either.

By mistake I forgot to plug in the MAF sensor. That was an interesting test drive as I quickly figured out that I must have missed this. It even tripped an engine code and the dash displayed "Reduced Power", however, the symptoms were much like what I was experiencing before, only more severe. The MAF is plugged in now and I'll give it another test soon. I'll wait a couple hours for it to cool and see if running conditions have improved when I get 1-mile down the road because that's when it's been losing power.

The next suspect is the MAF sensor itself I guess. I'll post the result soon.

Thanks for the suggestions!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, there is no change in performance. Still drives as if it's in "limp" mode but seems to stop after 2-3 minutes. Looks like I'm going to have to visit the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
My truck is still running terribly when I first start it and drive the first mile down the road, after that it is fine. Today the service engine soon light went on and I read the trouble codes. They were P0068 MAP/MAF/throttle body performance and a P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected. As stated earlier I have just put in new AC Delco iridium plugs and suspected suspected the MAF sensor after it was suggested. What has me puzzled is that these condition goes away completely after 5 minutes. My question now is what do people think about a bad MAF sensor causing the P0300 misfire codes or could I have multiple issues?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have had my truck into the local dealership twice now and they have not fixed this problem previously discussed in this thread. I paid over $100 for them to read codes that I already knew!! Multiple misfires being the one coming up all the time. Their diagnosis was cleaning the throttle body and a fuel injector flush. They told me that they cleaned the throttle body for free since it was apart already and they wanted me as a new customer. I removed and cleaned the throttle body myself in less than thirty minutes saving me $80 and took pictures of it before and after that should embarrass their service department for calling that clean. I had no choice but to pay $100 for the fuel injector service even though I didn't believe this to be the cause of my problem. Apparently they test drove it after being serviced, but when I went to pick it up tonight it would not accelerate beyond 10mph. I never drove it off the lot and refused to take deliver of my truck and repeated my request that I made initially to consider the warranty work on the worn intake valve seat problem for this truck and model. I've heard stories about other owners having problems with dealerships solving this drivability problem. Has anyone else had this problem on the Colorado/Canyon and been stuck paying for services as a result of incorrect diagnosis by the GM technicians?
 

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if the problem goes away after 5 minutes the truck is in closed loop mode during that period trying to warn up. It's something with the tune of your pickup. The computer makes changes even after correcting certain scenarios.

If you have cleaned the MAF, TB and changed the plugs, the next thing to change would be the header o2 sensor. Ensure it's cleaned and you can always pick one up for like 20 bucks in some places. I'd also check out the catayltic converter. My SS was doing the same issue until I found out it was plugged. GM and there pig rich OEM tunes suck. You may also have a wiring short which can also cause this situation.
 
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