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Discussion Starter #21
There are a handful of leveling kit options. Bilstein, Eibach, Peak, and RC.

Bilstein - n2 monotube, uses stock springs. Stiffer ride, high quality strut.
Eibach - Newer to truck market, but reviews great. Up to 2.7” plus a stiffer ride. (Coilover option available as well)
Peak - coilover. Made by Eibach it would appear. Reviews well and very likely has characteristics similar to Eibach.
RC - N2 charged monotube. Rides very similar to other varieties, stiffer suspension. (I own this in a 6” and the ride is great!)
Fox/King - Race spec coilover applications. Quality is top tier on these, if you’re willing to tune/rebuild.

All of the above are great options.


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Awesome. I will look into more of these later. I am working at the moment but I quickly searched the eibach kit. It’s on sale for $483 from real truck.

Sorry for my ignorance but the front says + 2-3” and the rears come with +0-1”. So can I max those settings out safely without having to change anything else on my truck?

Right now, the front of my truck is exactly 2” lower than the rear. I want a level look. If I got those and put the front to 3” while putting the extra 1” in the rear, I would still be level while having some extra height right?

If that’s the case that seems like a pretty good deal for the price.



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Awesome. I will look into more of these later. I am working at the moment but I quickly searched the eibach kit. It’s on sale for $483 from real truck.

Sorry for my ignorance but the front says + 2-3” and the rears come with +0-1”. So can I max those settings out safely without having to change anything else on my truck?

Right now, the front of my truck is exactly 2” lower than the rear. I want a level look. If I got those and put the front to 3” while putting the extra 1” in the rear, I would still be level while having some extra height right?

If that’s the case that seems like a pretty good deal for the price.



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This is my .2 -

If you go to 3” plus of lift without high angle CV axles (rcv), you will run into problems if you frequently off road. 3” in the front will need 1-2” of lift in the rear to be level.

3” will also require a transfer case drop, I believe sway bar relo/links. Try searching on the forum, there’s a “how to lift your Colorado/Canyon” thread that covers about 90% of any questions you may have.

***edit by “frequently off road” I mean situations where your cycling the suspension from max droop to stuff frequently.

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Discussion Starter #23
This is my .2 -

If you go to 3” plus of lift without high angle CV axles (rcv), you will run into problems if you frequently off road. 3” in the front will need 1-2” of lift in the rear to be level.

3” will also require a transfer case drop, I believe sway bar relo/links. Try searching on the forum, there’s a “how to lift your Colorado/Canyon” thread that covers about 90% of any questions you may have.

***edit by “frequently off road” I mean situations where your cycling the suspension from max droop to stuff frequently.

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Thanks. Yeah I was working so I was anxious to ask. But after some research I see the most we can go in the front is 2.7” without changing anything.

I don’t off-road, I just like how the truck looks so much better level. I think I’ll stick with just a 2” front level. I’ll do more research on some of the above options and make a decision.


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...

I don’t off-road, I just like how the truck looks so much better level. ...
That's easy, just add about 500 pounds in the bed and you will improve the winter traction as well. We call that a two'fer around these parts - 2 for the price of one.
 

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Thanks. Yeah I was working so I was anxious to ask. But after some research I see the most we can go in the front is 2.7” without changing anything.

I don’t off-road, I just like how the truck looks so much better level. I think I’ll stick with just a 2” front level. I’ll do more research on some of the above options and make a decision.


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If that’s the case go with either bilstein/RC/Eibach. They’ve got quality ride that will make the suspension a little nicer, unless you have a z71, they already have gas shocks, you could run a spacer for way less.


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Discussion Starter #27
If that’s the case go with either bilstein/RC/Eibach. They’ve got quality ride that will make the suspension a little nicer, unless you have a z71, they already have gas shocks, you could run a spacer for way less.


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I do have a z71. I’m not opposed to the spacer, I just read it made the ride more harsh. If it’s not that bad I have no issue doing that. I can save the full eibach kit for the future when I have to replace all the shocks.


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I do have a z71. I’m not opposed to the spacer, I just read it made the ride more harsh. If it’s not that bad I have no issue doing that. I can save the full eibach kit for the future when I have to replace all the shocks.


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It depends on the spacer. A top hat replacement will make the ride more harsh as those typically compress the springs. A spacer that attaches to the top hat, if they even make this style anymore, I’m sure they do, will not affect the ride. You will, no matter what, lose down travel as you’re effectively riding on a different point in the suspension travel and could bottom out the upper control arm on the hard stop.

If you’re worried about ride, Bilstein, Eibach, Fox, King, peak, and RC all have great rides (per reviews). Obviously drastically different price points. Personally, for your application I’d run bilstein at 2” with factory springs. If you want a bit more height, run the Eibach at 2.7 with add a leaf or a block. You shouldn’t see geometry issues to much under city/hiway driving. The add a leaf bumps your bed payload a bit as well, which is always nice, bit will stiffen the rear end up.


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Discussion Starter #29
It depends on the spacer. A top hat replacement will make the ride more harsh as those typically compress the springs. A spacer that attaches to the top hat, if they even make this style anymore, I’m sure they do, will not affect the ride. You will, no matter what, lose down travel as you’re effectively riding on a different point in the suspension travel and could bottom out the upper control arm on the hard stop.

If you’re worried about ride, Bilstein, Eibach, Fox, King, peak, and RC all have great rides (per reviews). Obviously drastically different price points. Personally, for your application I’d run bilstein at 2” with factory springs. If you want a bit more height, run the Eibach at 2.7 with add a leaf or a block. You shouldn’t see geometry issues to much under city/hiway driving. The add a leaf bumps your bed payload a bit as well, which is always nice, bit will stiffen the rear end up.


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Thank you. Just curious, The billsteins and the eibach rears say 0-1”. Are they adjustable like the fronts in which you don’t need the blocks. Or are blocks still Required in the rear with those struts to get the inch.


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Thank you. Just curious, The billsteins and the eibach rears say 0-1”. Are they adjustable like the fronts in which you don’t need the blocks. Or are blocks still Required in the rear with those struts to get the inch.


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Rears are not adjustable and do not provide any lift. 0-1” means they are capable of enough extension for up to a 1” lift. Whether that be a block or add a lift.


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