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Just wanted to follow up on my post. I have not encountered the symptoms since I cleared the code. I also seem to be operating at normal temps, I would guess the line is at the 195-200 degree mark.

And to clarify my topping off of the coolant comment, i probably put in about 8-10 oz, it was sitting about 1/2-3/4" below the line. Not sure if that helps determine the cause or not.
Looks like you may have corrected it. Be on the lookout for the coolant level to go down. If you have to add anymore, pull the truck up on a slight incline, and add the coolant slowly while the engine is running and the heater on max. This will burp the air bubble if there is one. Will cause the gage to register accurately too. I have had good luck running mine slightly above to Full coolant line.
 
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Just wanted to follow up on my post. I have not encountered the symptoms since I cleared the code. I also seem to be operating at normal temps, I would guess the line is at the 195-200 degree mark.

And to clarify my topping off of the coolant comment, i probably put in about 8-10 oz, it was sitting about 1/2-3/4" below the line. Not sure if that helps determine the cause or not.
Ya, keep watching the temps.
8 oz is next to nothing, mine was like that after a year or so. Not near enough to cause a bad temp reading at the sensor. Keep it a little above full to stop the water rushing sound in the dash if you get that like most of us.
I bet you will see the temp stay low again in the near future.
Let us know what happens.
 
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Oh that’s what causes that water rushing sound! Yes, I do get that, but not regularly so I just lived with it.
yes, VERY common, the fix is a little overfill. There is a new coolant bottle out for some trucks but I wouldn't bother.
 

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well, i'll just go ahead and toot my own horn.

i called it in post 5

toot toot :)
Not so fast. You called what now? Lol
The problem wasn’t water rushing sound it’s no AC and a not warming up code. An inch low of coolant and a bubble is not gonna do it.
 

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This morning as I parked at work my AC cut out and blew hot air. Not totally unusual, usually kicks back on after a bit. Come this afternoon to go home still
No AC, and my coolant temp gauge didn’t work. Then as I was almost home, my check engine light came on?? Other than that, the truck seemed to run fine, made it home ok. Turned the truck off and the engine fan ran for a few minutes.

Recent work: nothing major, new battery and topped off coolant level.

Any ideas??Oh my OBD scanner errors out, so I wasn’t able to pull any codes.
 

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2018 LT L.B. 3.6 Trifecta tune
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This Hvac on my truck is the worst system I ever owned, sooo finicky, the AC especially if you park it outside in heat I will never get cold enough, but keep it inside garage and it's good ?????
 

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This Hvac on my truck is the worst system I ever owned, sooo finicky, the AC especially if you park it outside in heat I will never get cold enough, but keep it inside garage and it's good ?????
Sounds like it's likely getting low on refrigerant.
 
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OBD scanner gave a P0128 code, Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature). I cleared the code and for some reason it worked after that. Will see if i get the same symptoms tomorrow and if the code comes back, will keep you posted.

I had the same exact issue, no AC, and temp gauge not working, and the cooling fan running super high. Got the PO128 code, cleared it and all works just fine. Thanks so much for the tip!!
 

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2018 Colorado CCLB Z71 3.6 LGZ
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On burping, I think I had been driving for a full year before my system got a proper pruge.
It happened after I had to floor it to avoid getting squished. next day I I look at the coolant reservoir to see it almost empty.
I don't have any leaks and have used the heater previously.
Takeaway is, it takes more than normal driving to fully purge all the air.
 

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Wanted to weigh in here. This problem occurred last year same as described on my Canyon. It has something to do with the temp sensor. When it 1st happened to me I thought maybe the battery was going bad. After 4 years old in Florida, heat is a major factor in battery life. I removed the battery and had it tested. There was no issue but to my surprise everything came back up like it should after I reinstalled the battery. Probably due to a system reset from power failure. Cut to last week, and the issue occurred again. I have an extended warranty expiring in 8k miles so I took it straight to the dealer the next morning. They had my truck for 6 days. IT IS the temp sensor and thermostat. Not sure which was the actual problem but they replaced both under the extended warranty. Probably because they go hand in hand and it can be very difficult to remove the sensor without removing the thermostat housing. The sensor is located just next to it under the the intake manifold. The AC will not cool when the temp sensor goes as a safety feature so you don't overheat the engine. Since the computer can't determine the actual temperature of the vehicle, it triggers AC shutoff so the clutch doesn't run and over exert the engine if there is a cooling issue. The fan comes on for about 10 minutes and shuts off to allow for cooling since it can't tell WHAT temperature the vehicle is actually running at. As soon as the temp sensor was replaced, the AC came back on with no problems. The temp sensor is about 15 bucks. I recommend anyone experiencing this issue just replace that sensor. It fixed my issue. The thermostat is a little more expensive at around 75 dollars because it comes attached to the housing. So they are replaced together. It is not the cooling level that causes this. There is however a bulletin on some vehicle regarding the water rushing sound in the coolant system. As long as your levels are good, this rushing sound is nothing to be worried about. However, the bulletin on this simply recommends replacing the coolant reservoir to the newer design to resolve it. This resolved my issue and was performed by the dealer as a voluntary recall. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10165086-9999.pdf

This is the web address for the tech bulleting on a chevy malibu. But since they had the same coolant reservoir, they covered it for me. Your dealer may do the same. Couldn't hurt to ask.
 

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The new vehicles now have an electronic temperature sensor in the negative cable that detects any heat from an arc, it can trip and shut off communication to the ECM and can even set codes which can shut down the charging rate output of the alternator. This can happen when hooking up jumper cables to the negative post instead of the preferred good metal ground. It can also shut down alternator output if a bad battery is detected by the ECM.
 

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Wanted to weigh in here. This problem occurred last year same as described on my Canyon. It has something to do with the temp sensor. When it 1st happened to me I thought maybe the battery was going bad. After 4 years old in Florida, heat is a major factor in battery life. I removed the battery and had it tested. There was no issue but to my surprise everything came back up like it should after I reinstalled the battery. Probably due to a system reset from power failure. Cut to last week, and the issue occurred again. I have an extended warranty expiring in 8k miles so I took it straight to the dealer the next morning. They had my truck for 6 days. IT IS the temp sensor and thermostat. Not sure which was the actual problem but they replaced both under the extended warranty. Probably because they go hand in hand and it can be very difficult to remove the sensor without removing the thermostat housing. The sensor is located just next to it under the the intake manifold. The AC will not cool when the temp sensor goes as a safety feature so you don't overheat the engine. Since the computer can't determine the actual temperature of the vehicle, it triggers AC shutoff so the clutch doesn't run and over exert the engine if there is a cooling issue. The fan comes on for about 10 minutes and shuts off to allow for cooling since it can't tell WHAT temperature the vehicle is actually running at. As soon as the temp sensor was replaced, the AC came back on with no problems. The temp sensor is about 15 bucks. I recommend anyone experiencing this issue just replace that sensor. It fixed my issue. The thermostat is a little more expensive at around 75 dollars because it comes attached to the housing. So they are replaced together. It is not the cooling level that causes this. There is however a bulletin on some vehicle regarding the water rushing sound in the coolant system. As long as your levels are good, this rushing sound is nothing to be worried about. However, the bulletin on this simply recommends replacing the coolant reservoir to the newer design to resolve it. This resolved my issue and was performed by the dealer as a voluntary recall. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10165086-9999.pdf

This is the web address for the tech bulleting on a chevy malibu. But since they had the same coolant reservoir, they covered it for me. Your dealer may do the same. Couldn't hurt to ask.
You likely got a new temp sensor for no reason. (not a bad thing) 99 times out of 100 it's the t-stat sticking open.
It is true the PCM will shut off the AC but I doubt the engineers did it because of "over extending the engine". It is more likely so there will be no heat from the AC condenser when it's not sure of the temp. Another explanation is that it makes you get it fixed because you have no AC, lots of people could care less about the CEL (check engine light). Funny, I remember Fords in the late 80s and early 90s that had no CEL would idle bad if there was a problem (and code set). It didn't matter if the problem had anything to do with the idle or not. I never went to Ford training but I do remember a guy I worked with told me this and why it idled bad. It's so you would take it in and get it fixed.
 

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Not necessarily IMO. I think he had an air bubble in the closed system since he "topped off the coolant".
Well I have the same issue in my cooling tank it was low I tapped it off and I still have the same problem I'm going to erase the code and see what happens but yeah my fan is working soon as I started my truck and even when I turn off it stays running for a little while and shuts off in my AC is not working right I have a Chevy Colorado Z71 2016 someone can help me out on this I appreciate that I keep checking on this see what I can do love the truck runs good besides this it just happened
 

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Ahhh, ok, that means the t-stat is bad, stuck or sticking open. It won't heat to operating temp. This will kill the AC too.
Watch your temp carefully, I think you will find it won't heat up.
Yes that's what mine's doing I'm being reading your guys how to cause and reply it seems like yes I do have some problems is statista no problem
 

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Well I have the same issue in my cooling tank it was low I tapped it off and I still have the same problem I'm going to erase the code and see what happens but yeah my fan is working soon as I started my truck and even when I turn off it stays running for a little while and shuts off in my AC is not working right I have a Chevy Colorado Z71 2016 someone can help me out on this I appreciate that I keep checking on this see what I can do love the truck runs good besides this it just happened
I'm fairly certain that you have broken the record for the longest run-on sentence ever. Congratulations.
 
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