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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey y'all, some of you may recall that I had gotten these rims with nearly-new 265/70 Wildpeaks on them. Well, that was a rubbing issue on my otherwise stock Z71, so I downsized to the "bigger stock" 265/65 Wildpeaks on 17" Black Rhino Sierra rims.

Two weeks in, and I don't know what to think.

I knew I'd lose some MPGs going to the heavier rim and bigger tire. But I'm losing at least 3 MPGs, maybe even more on the highway. Also, these tires don't seem to want to track straight. It pulls slightly right on a straight and level highway, but will try to track left occasionally as well. I got an alignment done when the tires were mounted. Is it possible that a bad alignment would cause the truck to try to track in both directions? Or maybe an unbalanced wheel? I do get a little shimmy in the steering wheel, but have kinda associated that with knobby AT tires, and hard to tell with these KY roads anyway.

I love the look of the tires and they are pretty quiet for an AT tire, but not sure that outweighs the MPG loss or the steering issue.

Thanks!
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I recently put on a set of 255/70/17 falken wildpeaks, which are a lighter duty tire than other sizes (4 ply like stock).

My truck handles just fine. They are on the aggressive side of ATs and kinda soft is my feeling. Noisy on corners, slow speeds you get a little rumble out of them, you can feel a little drag out of them. That's what reviews said and I'm happy with all that - a trade off to get traction in other conditions (versus say a less aggressive AT that is more of an all season and less effective off road or in snow).

I lost about 2 MPG - which is particularly notable, probably 3 MPG, at speeds < 40. Something about what these tires do, the truck hates doing say 30 MPH. Highway wise, I was averaging 21 MPG before, seems close still. Around town I'd see 18 or so, now it's 15 or 16 - closer to 15 or less if I keep getting stuck behind slow vehicles, little over 16 if I'm doing low 40s a good portion of the time (which is how the roads around here are, mostly 35 MPH speed limits).
 

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OP, what tire size/make/model was on the truck when you bought it, in the door jam?
your new tires show they weigh 42lbs and 30.6 diameter
If speedometer is off so will the odometer, so when you check the DIC read out or calculate, it will be off
mine is off 7% going from a 265/65/17 to a 285/70/17, So I have to decipher the difference in

example, my DIC shows I drove 2,200 miles last week and got 17.2 mpg but if I adjust the 7% it is 18.4 mpg. I think.
I do not keep track of actually gas mileage like I use to.

no vibration at 75 to 80mph across Kansas and Missouri
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I recently put on a set of 255/70/17 falken wildpeaks, which are a lighter duty tire than other sizes (4 ply like stock).

My truck handles just fine. They are on the aggressive side of ATs and kinda soft is my feeling. Noisy on corners, slow speeds you get a little rumble out of them, you can feel a little drag out of them. That's what reviews said and I'm happy with all that - a trade off to get traction in other conditions (versus say a less aggressive AT that is more of an all season and less effective off road or in snow).

I lost about 2 MPG - which is particularly notable, probably 3 MPG, at speeds < 40. Something about what these tires do, the truck hates doing say 30 MPH. Highway wise, I was averaging 21 MPG before, seems close still. Around town I'd see 18 or so, now it's 15 or 16 - closer to 15 or less if I keep getting stuck behind slow vehicles, little over 16 if I'm doing low 40s a good portion of the time (which is how the roads around here are, mostly 35 MPH speed limits).
That seems pretty similar to the mileage issues I've had around town, but it's pretty clear I've taken the highway hit too. Went from 22 to 19 if I'm lucky. While that's bothersome, I think the steering issue is a bit more concerning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OP, what tire size/make/model was on the truck when you bought it, in the door jam?
your new tires show they weigh 42lbs and 30.6 diameter
If speedometer is off so will the odometer, so when you check the DIC read out or calculate, it will be off
mine is off 7% going from a 265/65/17 to a 285/70/17, So I have to decipher the difference in

example, my DIC shows I drove 2,200 miles last week and got 17.2 mpg but if I adjust the 7% it is 18.4 mpg. I think.
I do not keep track of actually gas mileage like I use to.

no vibration at 75 to 80mph across Kansas and Missouri
I had the stock Wrangler AT 255/65-17 on stock rims, got 45000 miles out of them before they got too sloppy on wet roads. I pass by a couple of different permanent radar speed checks to and from work. They still match up to my speedometer, so I don't know that it's off by much with taller tires, if at all. Between the new rims and the new tires, I've got something like 13 more pounds at each corner. I knew I'd take a hit on the MPGs. I guess I didn't think it'd be this bad. While that's concerning, I'm a little more concerned about the steering issue.
 

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So when you got the new tires you got an alignment and balanced the wheels and ended up with steering issue? You could try taking it back to where they did those two services and see if something was a bit off.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So when you got the new tires you got an alignment and balanced the wheels and ended up with steering issue? You could try taking it back to where they did those two services and see if something was a bit off.
I think that's the plan currently. Yes they balanced and did the alignment. Hopefully just need a minor correction somewhere.
 

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I think that's the plan currently. Yes they balanced and did the alignment. Hopefully just need a minor correction somewhere.
Ah ok, I brought it up because there's a thread on the site about if a member's wheel had an excessive amount of weights added to it to balance it out. Some members that are in the know explained that sometimes the machine leads the tech down a path and the tech needs to know when to ignore the machine and recalibrate it instead or something like that. If a non experienced tech that couldn't recognize the issue kept adding weights, maybe one of your wheels could be off and causing the issue. It's at least worth a second look.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ah ok, I brought it up because there's a thread on the site about if a member's wheel had an excessive amount of weights added to it to balance it out. Some members that are in the know explained that sometimes the machine leads the tech down a path and the tech needs to know when to ignore the machine and recalibrate it instead or something like that. If a non experienced tech that couldn't recognize the issue kept adding weights, maybe one of your wheels could be off and causing the issue. It's at least worth a second look.
I will check it out thanks. I've read that Wildpeaks are sometimes difficult to balance anyway?
 

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You went from a 35lb tire to a 42 lb tire, plus your wheels, which you can figure the difference, since we have no idea what you had.
some aftermarket wheels are lighter and some heavier then OEM wheels
in town , start and stopping is where you will see the biggest difference with the weight issue.

check air pressure, as soe tie shop will put in 50lbs cause that is what is says on the side wall
run 33 to 35 and see how it drives/steers if you have not already, that is.

it shows the difference in tires diameter is 1.7%

Diameter inches (mm)30.05 (763.3)30.56 (776.3)0.51 (13) 1.7%
Width inches (mm)10.04 (255)10.43 (265)0.39 (10) 3.9%
Circum. inches (mm)94.41 (2397.98)96.02 (2438.82)1.61 (40.84) 1.7%


Speedo ReadingActual Speed
20 mph (32.19 km/h)20.34 mph (32.74 km/h)
25 mph (40.23 km/h)25.43 mph (40.92 km/h)
30 mph (48.28 km/h)30.51 mph (49.1 km/h)
35 mph (56.33 km/h)35.6 mph (57.29 km/h)
40 mph (64.37 km/h)40.68 mph (65.47 km/h)
45 mph (72.42 km/h)45.77 mph (73.65 km/h)
50 mph (80.47 km/h)50.85 mph (81.84 km/h)
55 mph (88.51 km/h)55.94 mph (90.02 km/h)
60 mph (96.56 km/h)61.02 mph (98.21 km/h)
65 mph (104.61 km/h)66.11 mph (106.39 km/h)
70 mph (112.65 km/h)71.19 mph (114.57 km/h)
75 mph (120.7 km/h)76.28 mph (122.76 km/h)
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You went from a 35lb tire to a 42 lb tire, plus your wheels, which you can figure the difference, since we have no idea what you had.
some aftermarket wheels are lighter and some heavier then OEM wheels
in town , start and stopping is where you will see the biggest difference with the weight issue.

check air pressure, as soe tie shop will put in 50lbs cause that is what is says on the side wall
run 33 to 35 and see how it drives/steers if you have not already, that is.

it shows the difference in tires diameter is 1.7%

Diameter inches (mm)30.05 (763.3)30.56 (776.3)0.51 (13) 1.7%
Width inches (mm)10.04 (255)10.43 (265)0.39 (10) 3.9%
Circum. inches (mm)94.41 (2397.98)96.02 (2438.82)1.61 (40.84) 1.7%


Speedo ReadingActual Speed
20 mph (32.19 km/h)20.34 mph (32.74 km/h)
25 mph (40.23 km/h)25.43 mph (40.92 km/h)
30 mph (48.28 km/h)30.51 mph (49.1 km/h)
35 mph (56.33 km/h)35.6 mph (57.29 km/h)
40 mph (64.37 km/h)40.68 mph (65.47 km/h)
45 mph (72.42 km/h)45.77 mph (73.65 km/h)
50 mph (80.47 km/h)50.85 mph (81.84 km/h)
55 mph (88.51 km/h)55.94 mph (90.02 km/h)
60 mph (96.56 km/h)61.02 mph (98.21 km/h)
65 mph (104.61 km/h)66.11 mph (106.39 km/h)
70 mph (112.65 km/h)71.19 mph (114.57 km/h)
75 mph (120.7 km/h)76.28 mph (122.76 km/h)
Yup I think I'm about 13 lbs heavier at each corner. I have the pressure set at 38 psi, figuring that might help a little with the MPGs. Surely that's not enough to cause a steering issue, right?
 

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It's hard to say when a vehicle tracks one way or the other - a lot of roads have a crown to them, so it's kinda common if you are paying close attention to feel a vehicle wants to drift a touch and if it seems to go either way, I feel like that's a sign you are noting the crown.

The vibration thing is a non starter though. No reason for that.

Most likely you are extremely unbalanced. Or you got a new problem.

Did you note smooth operation on those wheels at some point prior?

I'd definitely bring it back to the tire shop, ask them to analyze, they should jump all over that. But another thing - any chance you have your stock wheels w/ tires still? I'd be putting them on for a test run - isolate wheels/tires as a problem.

I went through similar with my snow tires on another vehicle last year. Turned out it was a U joint on the driveshaft AND a bad bearing (bearing more of a slight noise, vibration was 100% the u joint), however it was more notable on the snow tires.
 

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Yup I think I'm about 13 lbs heavier at each corner. I have the pressure set at 38 psi, figuring that might help a little with the MPGs. Surely that's not enough to cause a steering issue, right?
do some research on airing up tires to get better gas mileage. I'll leave it at that......

I would go in and tell the tire place that you have a vibration at , what ever speed you tell them, they will probably re-balance them

just for kicks, go down the open highway at vibration speed and adjust your rear mirrors to see if the rear wheels are vibrating/bouncing
You can do the same thing on front drivers tire by taking a video with your phone,
might need a passenger to the the passenger side though :sneaky:
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It's hard to say when a vehicle tracks one way or the other - a lot of roads have a crown to them, so it's kinda common if you are paying close attention to feel a vehicle wants to drift a touch and if it seems to go either way, I feel like that's a sign you are noting the crown.

The vibration thing is a non starter though. No reason for that.

Most likely you are extremely unbalanced. Or you got a new problem.

Did you note smooth operation on those wheels at some point prior?

I'd definitely bring it back to the tire shop, ask them to analyze, they should jump all over that. But another thing - any chance you have your stock wheels w/ tires still? I'd be putting them on for a test run - isolate wheels/tires as a problem.

I went through similar with my snow tires on another vehicle last year. Turned out it was a U joint on the driveshaft AND a bad bearing (bearing more of a slight noise, vibration was 100% the u joint), however it was more notable on the snow tires.
I unfortunately don't have the old wheels/tires. I'll try to get back in the shop next week and see what they think. I did consider the crown of the roads. But I would still get some slight pull to the right occasionally when the road was level or dipping to the left. Or vice-versa. Thanks!
 

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I went with Coopers Rugged Trek 265/70R17 on OEM wheels, I jumped up 10lbs per tire, between the added width and weight I lost a ton more MPGs than you did. Not to mention my tires rub the frame at full lock. These are monsters compared to the OEM Goodyears, although specs don't show much of a difference between these and Wildpeaks, but from what I've gathered the FWP's don't rub in 265/70R17 OEM wheels. My truck may have suffered a serious blow to MPGs, so I set the cruise control at 60 and checked it with my GPS, I was 3MPH faster. I guess there's a slight difference there but not sure it equates to this much. I was seriously getting mid to high 20s with one trip at 30MPGs, This is my round town and back and forth to work, 2.2 miles one way, so she barley stretches her legs on that ride. I did get between 17 and 19 mpgs on Tuesdays when I drove up North to pick my daughter up from college. I don't necessarily concern myself with MPGs, but I was surprised she suffered as much as she did. But none the less, I love the look and feel. She tracks well and holds firm.
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When i went to the 285/70/17's I only increased weight by 4 lbs , I wanted to go with the same diameter tire as the 285's but same width as the 265's but then I would increase weight by 10-15 lbs depending on tire brand.
I do not think I took much of any hit on gas mileage in normal everyday driving.
 
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