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2021 Colorado ZR2 V6 Crew Cab Short Bed, Cherry Red Tint Coat
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I’m not 100% sure why my post is invisible again. Maybe an edit I did caused it to go into ‘pending approval’ status. My original diagram was my original draft copy where I had labeled post 87 and 87A backwards for the EMR. Yesterday I replaced that draft copy with my production copy then the post went invisible. Hopefully my original post will be reinstated soon.

EDIT: My original post was deleted... See below for re-post.
 

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2021 Colorado ZR2 V6 Crew Cab Short Bed, Cherry Red Tint Coat
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KWD - I would like to see your schematic diagram. I had been looking for SPDT solid state relay to incorporate into the original design, but apparently they don't exist. You original post is not available. I believe I understand what you did. Congrats.

EDIT: My original post was deleted... See below for re-post.
 

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2021 Colorado ZR2 V6 Crew Cab Short Bed, Cherry Red Tint Coat
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Well… Let me try this again.

I purchased my new 2021 ZR2 in October of 2020. I am really pleased with the overall package but was surprised that GM does not offer an exterior LED lighting option for the Colorado. I spent hours scouring different forums and YouTube videos looking for insight with converting my halogen headlights over to LED headlights. All the posts and pictures offered from participants of this forum helped me immensely with my conversion, so I thought that I would return the favor and speak about what modification worked for me.

My preference was to retain the OEM headlamp assemblies and convert all lamps to LED’s. Instead of buying the popular DRL relocate harness I opted to build my own. I initially built a plug-n-play short harness with electro-mechanical SPDT relay and factory Molex connectors, pins, and sockets; one for the DS and another for the PS. The single relay option uses the park light input wire as the trigger to energize relay coil for change-over from DRL to head light mode.

My setup relocates the DRL function from the low beam headlamp to the park/turn lamp which utilizes an amber/white switchback LED sourced from Supernova. After I installed and tested the DS harness with truck parked in garage I noticed that I too encountered a high frequency buzzing or relay chatter during certain electrical power modes. Even with the annoying relay chatter all LED lights operated as expected. What my investigation revealed is that a few seconds after engine start the BCM supply voltage to the park light input dropped from around 14.5v to 9.5v for approximately 60-90 seconds then ramped back up to 14.5v when the chatter would stop. During the voltage decrease the relay chatter began around 9.8v and continued to chatter until voltage increased to above 10.5v.

With the understanding that this is a PWM DC circuit I had to figure out a simple way of stabilizing the park light input voltage to the electro-mechanical (EMR) SPDT relay coil. After much internal debate I decided to incorporate a solid-state (SSR) Form-A micro relay into each short harness. I elected to use E-T-A, PN: ESR10-NC2A4HB-00-D1-10A sourced from Mouser Electronics. These SSR’s have a ‘Control input IN.a’ (ON) voltage range of 6v to 16v with an (OFF) voltage range of 0v to 2v and rated at 10 amps. The SSR is used to sense the PWM park light input from the BCM then output a stable 12v to the EMR relay coil. I tapped the 12v source the from within the X50A fuse block.

After I incorporated these SSR’s into my current set-up and reinstalled both short harnesses on the truck… BINGO, WE HAVE A WINNER!!! No more relay chatter during ANY electrical power mode, the EMR is now receiving a stable (non BCM PWM) 12v signal to its coil. See diagram below for illustration of short harness that incorporates SSR and EMR relays.

• Driver side EMR and SSR are mounted to inner fender rail.
• Passenger side EMR and SSR are mounted to forward wall of air intake box.

 

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Quick question on wiring a relay and if pin 85 needs to be immediately grounded or if it can be grounded further down the circuit. I know pin 86 is the power trigger and to energize the coil, pin 85 completes the circuit by grounding it. But can't I allow current to flow through pin 86 and 85 to the park bulb, and let the bulb complete the circuit?

Here is a rudimentary drawing using KWD's drawing as a base. I put a diode to prevent backfeed on the coil, but not on 87a as it would be open when 85 is energized.
Text White Line Purple Parallel

My thought is that drawing the current the park bulb needs through the coil will cause damage to the coil?
 

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2021 Colorado ZR2 V6 Crew Cab Short Bed, Cherry Red Tint Coat
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Yes but not advisable. The ground for a relay coil may be obtained further down the control circuit. However it should be a clean, or have a minimum-resistive, path to ground. Providing the coil's ground thru an incandescent lamp adds quite a bit of resistance. This added resistance could cause the relay to cycle on/off under certain power loads. Additionally the incandescent lamp will shine dimmer than expected due to the overall increased circuit resistance.
if the park lamp is an LED then in this type of circuit you will be presented with a whole other set of issues due the resistors(s) in the LED pack.
Please be aware that the relay in you drawing is still subject to the effects of pulse-width-modulation voltage sent by the BCM.
 

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Thanks, perfect explanation and clears up all questions I had.

I'll just copy your diagram, including the SSR, when I make my harness. I don't want buzzing relays!
 

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2021 Colorado ZR2 V6 Crew Cab Short Bed, Cherry Red Tint Coat
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Thanks, perfect explanation and clears up all questions I had.

I'll just copy your diagram, including the SSR, when I make my harness. I don't want buzzing relays!
Happy I could help!
Side notes regarding both diodes. The reason for diode placed in the park light circuit (purple wire) is two-fold. 1) It prevents voltage of the DRL circuit (green wire) from energizing relay, in-turn closing contacts for the low beam circuit. 2) Protects the BCM from a back voltage from the DRL circuit (green wire). The diode placed in the DRL circuit (green wire) is there to protect the BCM from a back voltage in the event of failure of either relay.
 

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Ah, green wire diode is in case the relay fails in the NC position and voltage is flowing through the purple wires. Took me a second to understand that but it all makes sense. These harnesses went from costing a few bucks to a lot more really quick, but still way cheaper than an Gen5 harness.
 

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2021 Colorado ZR2 V6 Crew Cab Short Bed, Cherry Red Tint Coat
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Ah, green wire diode is in case the relay fails in the NC position and voltage is flowing through the purple wires. Took me a second to understand that but it all makes sense. These harnesses went from costing a few bucks to a lot more really quick, but still way cheaper than an Gen5 harness.
For sure, less expensive than Gen5 harness. I went back and reviewed my materials cost sheet and found that I spent a combined total of $155 for both short harnesses. Not too shabby even with the extra expense for two SSR's.
 

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2016 Colorado WT
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Well… Let me try this again.

I purchased my new 2021 ZR2 in October of 2020. I am really pleased with the overall package but was surprised that GM does not offer an exterior LED lighting option for the Colorado. I spent hours scouring different forums and YouTube videos looking for insight with converting my halogen headlights over to LED headlights. All the posts and pictures offered from participants of this forum helped me immensely with my conversion, so I thought that I would return the favor and speak about what modification worked for me.

My preference was to retain the OEM headlamp assemblies and convert all lamps to LED’s. Instead of buying the popular DRL relocate harness I opted to build my own. I initially built a plug-n-play short harness with electro-mechanical SPDT relay and factory Molex connectors, pins, and sockets; one for the DS and another for the PS. The single relay option uses the park light input wire as the trigger to energize relay coil for change-over from DRL to head light mode.

My setup relocates the DRL function from the low beam headlamp to the park/turn lamp which utilizes an amber/white switchback LED sourced from Supernova. After I installed and tested the DS harness with truck parked in garage I noticed that I too encountered a high frequency buzzing or relay chatter during certain electrical power modes. Even with the annoying relay chatter all LED lights operated as expected. What my investigation revealed is that a few seconds after engine start the BCM supply voltage to the park light input dropped from around 14.5v to 9.5v for approximately 60-90 seconds then ramped back up to 14.5v when the chatter would stop. During the voltage decrease the relay chatter began around 9.8v and continued to chatter until voltage increased to above 10.5v.

With the understanding that this is a PWM DC circuit I had to figure out a simple way of stabilizing the park light input voltage to the electro-mechanical (EMR) SPDT relay coil. After much internal debate I decided to incorporate a solid-state (SSR) Form-A micro relay into each short harness. I elected to use E-T-A, PN: ESR10-NC2A4HB-00-D1-10A sourced from Mouser Electronics. These SSR’s have a ‘Control input IN.a’ (ON) voltage range of 6v to 16v with an (OFF) voltage range of 0v to 2v and rated at 10 amps. The SSR is used to sense the PWM park light input from the BCM then output a stable 12v to the EMR relay coil. I tapped the 12v source the from within the X50A fuse block.

After I incorporated these SSR’s into my current set-up and reinstalled both short harnesses on the truck… BINGO, WE HAVE A WINNER!!! No more relay chatter during ANY electrical power mode, the EMR is now receiving a stable (non BCM PWM) 12v signal to its coil. See diagram below for illustration of short harness that incorporates SSR and EMR relays.

• Driver side EMR and SSR are mounted to inner fender rail.
• Passenger side EMR and SSR are mounted to forward wall of air intake box.

Awesome write up. Thanks for updating this. I will be doing this mod in the very near future.
 

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2020 RST
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Finished this mod finally.

Used these SSR relays:
(CG Solid State Relay SSR-25DD DC to DC Input 3-32VDC To Output 5-240VDC 25A Single Phase Plastic Cover)
These diodes:
10PCS SR560 (SB560) Schottky Barrier Rectifier Diodes 5A 60V DO-201AD (DO-27) Axial 5 Amp 60 Volt 10PCS SR560 (SB560) Schottky Barrier Rectifier Diodes 5A 60V DO-201AD (DO-27) Axial 5 Amp 60 Volt: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Standard Relays:

Used KWD's diagram. I colored my diagram to match the wires on the coil relay and the actual DIY harness I bought off ebay. The DIY (Molex) harness doesn't appear to be available. If you do this make sure you install the diodes correctly. The silver end is negative (cathode).

These came in handy:
Solder Seal Wire Connectors Heat Shrink Butt Connectors Intashi Waterproof Solder Wire Splice Electrical Connector for Marine Automotive Terminal Kit(50pcs)

No Buzz, no flicker. Good luck.
 

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2017 AT4 2.8L CCLB Dark Slate Metallic
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Finished this mod finally.

Used these SSR relays:
(CG Solid State Relay SSR-25DD DC to DC Input 3-32VDC To Output 5-240VDC 25A Single Phase Plastic Cover)
These diodes:
10PCS SR560 (SB560) Schottky Barrier Rectifier Diodes 5A 60V DO-201AD (DO-27) Axial 5 Amp 60 Volt 10PCS SR560 (SB560) Schottky Barrier Rectifier Diodes 5A 60V DO-201AD (DO-27) Axial 5 Amp 60 Volt: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Standard Relays:

Used KWD's diagram. I colored my diagram to match the wires on the coil relay and the actual DIY harness I bought off ebay. The DIY (Molex) harness doesn't appear to be available. If you do this make sure you install the diodes correctly. The silver end is negative (cathode).

These came in handy:
Solder Seal Wire Connectors Heat Shrink Butt Connectors Intashi Waterproof Solder Wire Splice Electrical Connector for Marine Automotive Terminal Kit(50pcs)

No Buzz, no flicker. Good luck.
I only made about 2 dozen of the DIY harnesses because I only bought an intial batch of 100 molex connectors, pins, resistors, t-taps and wires to make them with. The last one sold about a month ago, and with a lot of other stuff going on I just haven't had the time to make another batch of them. Plus, the forum jumped on my case for linking them on here...at $50ea I was not making any profit but they wanted me to register as a vendor LOL

Also, if you guys want the originals for the diagram that @KWD-BR549 made, it is a Microsoft Visio file that I created for the DIY kits. I can't attach it here because of the file type restrictions, but if you PM me I can email it to you.
 

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2021 Colorado ZR2 V6 Crew Cab Short Bed, Cherry Red Tint Coat
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Finished this mod finally.

Used these SSR relays:
(CG Solid State Relay SSR-25DD DC to DC Input 3-32VDC To Output 5-240VDC 25A Single Phase Plastic Cover)
These diodes:
10PCS SR560 (SB560) Schottky Barrier Rectifier Diodes 5A 60V DO-201AD (DO-27) Axial 5 Amp 60 Volt 10PCS SR560 (SB560) Schottky Barrier Rectifier Diodes 5A 60V DO-201AD (DO-27) Axial 5 Amp 60 Volt: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Standard Relays:

Used KWD's diagram. I colored my diagram to match the wires on the coil relay and the actual DIY harness I bought off ebay. The DIY (Molex) harness doesn't appear to be available. If you do this make sure you install the diodes correctly. The silver end is negative (cathode).

These came in handy:
Solder Seal Wire Connectors Heat Shrink Butt Connectors Intashi Waterproof Solder Wire Splice Electrical Connector for Marine Automotive Terminal Kit(50pcs)

No Buzz, no flicker. Good luck.
Good find on the "Hockey Puck" style SSR! It may be a bit larger than I prefer but hard to beat the price, it's a third the cost of the automotive plug-in style I mentioned before.
 

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Good find on the "Hockey Puck" style SSR! It may be a bit larger than I prefer but hard to beat the price, it's a third the cost of the automotive plug-in style I mentioned before.
I spoke too soon. Ring Cam taped me pulling in the driveway and the DRLs are flickering. The clean power to the relay solved the relay chattering (buzz) problem. Gonna do some testing when it warms up a bit.
 

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2021 Colorado ZR2 V6 Crew Cab Short Bed, Cherry Red Tint Coat
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I spoke too soon. Ring Cam taped me pulling in the driveway and the DRLs are flickering. The clean power to the relay solved the relay chattering (buzz) problem. Gonna do some testing when it warms up a bit.
If you don't see them flicker with the naked eye then you should be fine.

With incorporation of SSR the mechanical relay is now powered by a relatively flat DC voltage yet the LED's are still powered by PWM DC voltage. This BCM supplied voltage is at approximately 128 Hz, aka “fake AC”. Normally the human eye cannot see the flickering of LEDs occur because the flicker happens too fast. But when you take video of an illuminated LED (in your case a door bell camera with around 15-30 fps) the frequency of the camera’s frame rate per second (FPS) and the LEDs don’t quite match, the flicker becomes visible on the camera screen.

See below link to a short article explaining ‘Why Do LED Lights Flicker On Video’

Why Do LED Lights Flicker On Video? - LED & Lighting Info
 

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Wow, those relays from Amazon are cheap! Curious what the issue with the flickering is.

Since the SSRs KWD linked are micro relays, I am going to use all micro relays and a micro relay box to tidy everything up. I've collected some parts but not enough to start on the project.
 

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2017 AT4 2.8L CCLB Dark Slate Metallic
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I spoke too soon. Ring Cam taped me pulling in the driveway and the DRLs are flickering. The clean power to the relay solved the relay chattering (buzz) problem. Gonna do some testing when it warms up a bit.
Make sure the flickering wasn't an illusion caused by the refresh rate of your Ring camera syncing up with the PWM signal. This happens a lot to folks filming videos of cars with LED lighting...
 

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Looks like I have to run a pair of SSR's on my DIY harnesses as well. My relays just started acting up.

Question for those who maybe able to answer it. Is it possible to run the 12v feed for the solid state relays from a switched source so they are not constantly powered by a 12v feed from the battery? I'm just concerned about leaving the relays constantly powered. I went with the Amazon linked SSR's.
 
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