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102hz is about 10mS between pulses. So depending on the coil resistance of your relays. If they are 50ohm the smallest cap you could use was 200uF.

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Scratch that, since the park lamp signal drives the relay coil...I need to scope that first.
 

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This
BUZZ!!!!

Struggling. Bought the DIY harnesses, added two relays exactly as shown in the drawing (four total). The Park Relay on the passenger side is buzzing like crazy. The buzz causes LED switch back on that side to flicker. The driver side has no buzz and works perfectly. The Passenger side works but the buzz is just to scary to live with, louder than the engine. I swapped in a spare relay. No change. Took both harness out and returned to stock. What did I do wrong? Yes, the wiring I did is correct. Checked it a dozen times. Checked continuity a resistance too. I've been messing with this thing for more than 6 hours. I saw something above about changing in input??? Take the Park relays out? HELP?
So this update might be a little long winded. I have a 2020 RST (Dressed up LT)

I pulled the DIY harnesses out of my truck and discovered that PIN 85 on the Drivers side Park relay was not connected which explained why no Buzz from the drivers side park relay. I had already decided to ditch the park relay anyway. I rewired both harness without the Park Relay and re-installed in the truck. I thought success was in hand (sh... eaten grin!) It looked great. Turn signals were amber, no buzz. Then, I put the truck in Drive and got a minor buzz as the DRL relay picked up. By the time I hit my first traffic light (4 miles) the buzz was louder than the music in the cab. I pulled into a parking lot, set the parking brake, popped the hood and put in Drive. Not recommended, but had to see what was happening. The Buzz, once again, was extremely loud. Both DRLs flickered as the relays hit different pitch notes in sound. I manually shut the lights off. Back at home, I rewired the harness yet again. This time the switch backs functioned as DRL (white) with the DRL Low beams still on. No buzz, probably because in the this configuration, the lone relay isn't doing much. I removed the harnesses, not what I wanted. The harnesses look like a 3rd graders science project now anyway. I'm going remove all the relays (what a waste of time and money) and just use the DIY harness with the resistors in their original form. I'll have switch backs, but the DRL relocate is off the table for the moment.
 

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This


So this update might be a little long winded. I have a 2020 RST (Dressed up LT)

I pulled the DIY harnesses out of my truck and discovered that PIN 85 on the Drivers side Park relay was not connected which explained why no Buzz from the drivers side park relay. I had already decided to ditch the park relay anyway. I rewired both harness without the Park Relay and re-installed in the truck. I thought success was in hand (sh... eaten grin!) It looked great. Turn signals were amber, no buzz. Then, I put the truck in Drive and got a minor buzz as the DRL relay picked up. By the time I hit my first traffic light (4 miles) the buzz was louder than the music in the cab. I pulled into a parking lot, set the parking brake, popped the hood and put in Drive. Not recommended, but had to see what was happening. The Buzz, once again, was extremely loud. Both DRLs flickered as the relays hit different pitch notes in sound. I manually shut the lights off. Back at home, I rewired the harness yet again. This time the switch backs functioned as DRL (white) with the DRL Low beams still on. No buzz, probably because in the this configuration, the lone relay isn't doing much. I removed the harnesses, not what I wanted. The harnesses look like a 3rd graders science project now anyway. I'm going remove all the relays (what a waste of time and money) and just use the DIY harness with the resistors in their original form. I'll have switch backs, but the DRL relocate is off the table for the moment.
If you have LED park lamps installed, then depending on the LED bulb the Park Lamps might not be drawing enough juice to keep the relay open. May I ask what relays are you using?
 

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If you have LED park lamps installed, then depending on the LED bulb the Park Lamps might not be drawing enough juice to keep the relay open. May I ask what relays are you using?
Amazon JOYHO JD191412V40A Amazon.com: 5 Pack 12V Waterproof Relay Harness Set - JOYHO 12 Volt 5 Pin 40/30 AMP SPDT Bosch Style Automotive Relays with Heavy Duty 16AWG 14AWG Tinned Copper Wires: Industrial & Scientific

Switchbacks
Alla Lighting 7443 7444NA T20 LED
 

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Thanks. Given that information, I believe there are 3 possible causes for your DRL relays to buzz like this.
1. Faulty relays (unlikely, since they are new).
2. The Park Lamp is powered by a PWM signal from the BCM (unknown, since I have not yet scoped that on my truck)
3. The LED bulbs you have installed may be drawing less than the relay minimum switching current. I would try testing the relays out with incandescent bulbs installed in the parking lamps. If they don't buzz then the LED bulbs are your culprit. This would explain why some people have the buzzing relay problem and others do not, because the only real variable between everyone's trucks with DRL relocate (assuming they are wired identically) is the relays and bulbs.
 

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Thanks for taking the time to post. In the original two relay config, I actually pulled out the switchback bulb and the park relay continued its mad buzzing. So load may well be the issue. I wish I had thought then to install the incandescent. Anyway, I'm going to send back the ALLA bulbs today. I'll purchase some LASFIT or DIODE DYNAMIC bulbs perhaps, gotta throw more money at the problem. Plugging in the incandescent with the relay wont cost anything and is a good check.
 

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I've read the entire thread and I would like to set it up with the dual relay setup shown in post #35 (white switchback DRL, yellow turn from the same bulb) but the buzz issue is a non-starter. Would solid-state relays provide any benefit? Would that eliminate the PWM issue? I've found a few but none that have both normally closed connections.
I'm a Mechanical engineer and I know enough not to get shocked but sometimes the inner workings of an electronic circuit bewilders me.
 

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Normally closed vs normally open just means you'd need to swap what would be pins 87A and 87 on the relay to obtain the function you want.
 

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Thanks for taking the time to post. In the original two relay config, I actually pulled out the switchback bulb and the park relay continued its mad buzzing. So load may well be the issue. I wish I had thought then to install the incandescent. Anyway, I'm going to send back the ALLA bulbs today. I'll purchase some LASFIT or DIODE DYNAMIC bulbs perhaps, gotta throw more money at the problem. Plugging in the incandescent with the relay wont cost anything and is a good check.
I've been thinking about this...when you ditched the Park Relay and consolidated to only one Isolated DRL Relay per headlight, what did you do with the disconnected Parking Lamp wire that comes from the BCM? If you reconnected it to the Parking Lamp wire that goes to the headlight, then that would provide a path for DRL/Low Beam power to feed back into the relay (PWM would cause buzzing). If you did not reconnect it, then it would be wired like the OP's original method and we are back to figuring out if the Park Lamp signal needs a sufficient load, or if the Park Lamp signal is being driven by PWM and needs a capacitor to smooth out the signal.

I've read the entire thread and I would like to set it up with the dual relay setup shown in post #35 (white switchback DRL, yellow turn from the same bulb) but the buzz issue is a non-starter. Would solid-state relays provide any benefit? Would that eliminate the PWM issue? I've found a few but none that have both normally closed connections.
I'm a Mechanical engineer and I know enough not to get shocked but sometimes the inner workings of an electronic circuit bewilders me.
Although SSR technically should not "buzz" like electromechanical relays, they might exacerbate other issues caused by PWM...like flickering. I provided that dual relay wiring set-up mainly because I still wanted the ability to have Parking Lights only, and I figured others would want the same. From what I have read, it seems that when the BCM Low Beam/DRL power is applied to the solid state circuitry of certain LED bulbs (especially switchbacks, which are designed to turn off the white light while the amber is flashing) it causes them to strobe and/or flicker.

I have another experimental idea that may not require any capacitors: run one Isolated DRL relay and one Park relay for both headlights in parallel. This would require some extra wiring, but combining the left and right circuits might just resolve the issue, especially if it is PWM because multiple drivers would be feeding the same circuit and the overlap would help to smooth/cancel out the peaks and valleys.
 

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I've been thinking about this...when you ditched the Park Relay and consolidated to only one Isolated DRL Relay per headlight, what did you do with the disconnected Parking Lamp wire that comes from the BCM? If you reconnected it to the Parking Lamp wire that goes to the headlight, then that would provide a path for DRL/Low Beam power to feed back into the relay (PWM would cause buzzing). If you did not reconnect it, then it would be wired like the OP's original method and we are back to figuring out if the Park Lamp signal needs a sufficient load, or if the Park Lamp signal is being driven by PWM and needs a capacitor to smooth out the signal.


Although SSR technically should not "buzz" like electromechanical relays, they might exacerbate other issues caused by PWM...like flickering. I provided that dual relay wiring set-up mainly because I still wanted the ability to have Parking Lights only, and I figured others would want the same. From what I have read, it seems that when the BCM Low Beam/DRL power is applied to the solid state circuitry of certain LED bulbs (especially switchbacks, which are designed to turn off the white light while the amber is flashing) it causes them to strobe and/or flicker.

I have another experimental idea that may not require any capacitors: run one Isolated DRL relay and one Park relay for both headlights in parallel. This would require some extra wiring, but combining the left and right circuits might just resolve the issue, especially if it is PWM because multiple drivers would be feeding the same circuit and the overlap would help to smooth/cancel out the peaks and valleys.

I finished reconfiguring a harness to the original OP schematic with 85/86 reversed. Shouldn't matter. To do that I had to disconnect the parking wire, so you are correct. I haven't tested the harness in the truck yet. Rainy day here and disappointed by the whole experience. Besides, the game is on. When I made the cables up originally, I soldered and heat shrunk the majority of the connections, wrapped it, and installed for the long haul expecting no issues. So, like I said earlier, my cables are a mess now.
I sent the ALLA lights back and haven't decided on which switchbacks to buy to replace them. I thought the load resistor took care of flickering and hyper flash. Since my issues are with the DRLs and not the turn function....I just don't know what to get. I'll op test the OP relay setup tomorrow with the incandescent and see if it buzzes. If it doesn't, I'll pull the trigger on some new switchbacks.
 

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I finished reconfiguring a harness to the original OP schematic with 85/86 reversed. Shouldn't matter. To do that I had to disconnect the parking wire, so you are correct. I haven't tested the harness in the truck yet. Rainy day here and disappointed by the whole experience. Besides, the game is on. When I made the cables up originally, I soldered and heat shrunk the majority of the connections, wrapped it, and installed for the long haul expecting no issues. So, like I said earlier, my cables are a mess now.
I sent the ALLA lights back and haven't decided on which switchbacks to buy to replace them. I thought the load resistor took care of flickering and hyper flash. Since my issues are with the DRLs and not the turn function....I just don't know what to get. I'll op test the OP relay setup tomorrow with the incandescent and see if it buzzes. If it doesn't, I'll pull the trigger on some new switchbacks.
Some people with switchbacks and DRL have the white parking light flicker or strobe, that is different from hyper-flash and on a different circuit than the turn signals.
 

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Why does GM feel the need to make such a complicated circuit. I ordered the GEN5Diy DRL relocation harness with the recommended Diode Dynamics switchbacks but apparently DD is having issues with those bulbs and I couldn't use them. They said they've had issues so there will be redesigned switchbacks in a few weeks.
 

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Why does GM feel the need to make such a complicated circuit. I ordered the GEN5Diy DRL relocation harness with the recommended Diode Dynamics switchbacks but apparently DD is having issues with those bulbs and I couldn't use them. They said they've had issues so there will be redesigned switchbacks in a few weeks.
You can mainly thank government safety and environmental regulations for the overly complex circuits, but it also helps to keep costs down.
 

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Text Line Parallel Diagram
The image is for reference. Today's test was with the OEM incandescent bulb. I installed one harness assembled as shown. My truck is in my garage, not a lot of light. With the truck off in the garage, lights on, no issues. When I started the truck, the relay buzzed like mad. I backed the truck out of the garage, still buzzing. The light sensor on the dash picked up, headlights shut off and the buzzing stopped. I tried everything, manual switch ops, in gear, out gear to get it to buzz again. It did not. I pulled the truck back into the garage, the light sensor turned on the headlights, no buzz. I shut the truck off. I restarted the truck, headlights come on along with mad relay buzz. I'm assuming that if it is dark outside, the relay will continue to buzz. If it is light outside, just have to live with the buzz long enough to get truck out of garage. Neither option is viable.
 

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View attachment 397290
The image is for reference. Today's test was with the OEM incandescent bulb. I installed one harness assembled as shown. My truck is in my garage, not a lot of light. With the truck off in the garage, lights on, no issues. When I started the truck, the relay buzzed like mad. I backed the truck out of the garage, still buzzing. The light sensor on the dash picked up, headlights shut off and the buzzing stopped. I tried everything, manual switch ops, in gear, out gear to get it to buzz again. It did not. I pulled the truck back into the garage, the light sensor turned on the headlights, no buzz. I shut the truck off. I restarted the truck, headlights come on along with mad relay buzz. I'm assuming that if it is dark outside, the relay will continue to buzz. If it is light outside, just have to live with the buzz long enough to get truck out of garage. Neither option is viable.
Using that wiring method, the Parking Lamp wire is powering the relay coil exclusively, and has no other load. The Parking Lamp itself is powered by the Low Beam signal. With the truck being on, off, inside, outside, etc. and the headlight switch in different positions, the battery is being loaded and charged differently in each scenario. If this buzzing is not caused by various PWM duty cycles from the BCM, it is most likely caused by a weak signal from the Park Lamp circuit. If the signal is too weak or in a low duty cycle, the magnetic field in the relay coil is only temporarily strong enough to overcome the latch spring. It continually gains enough strength to overcome the spring, then fails again in rapid succession, causing the buzz.

I'm thinking this is a load problem. If I am correct and it isn't PWM, then you wire it with the dual Isolated Relay and Park Relay, while also having a sufficient load on the Park Lamp circuit (such as an incandescent bulb), then there should be no buzzing. My guess is the switchback LEDs didn't provide sufficient load to keep the relay closed, which is why you had buzzing to begin with.
 

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Hi folks,

I purchased my new 2021 ZR2 in October of 2020. I am really pleased with the overall package but was surprised that GM does not offer an exterior LED lighting option for the Colorado. I spent hours scouring different forums and YouTube videos looking for insight with converting my halogen headlights over to LED headlights. All the posts and pictures offered from participants of this forum helped me immensely with my conversion, so I thought that I would return the favor and speak about what modification worked for me.

My preference was to retain the OEM headlamp assemblies and convert all lamps to LED’s. Instead of buying the popular DRL relocate harness I opted to build my own. I initially built a plug-n-play short harness with electro-mechanical SPDT relay and factory Molex connectors, pins, and sockets; one for the DS and another for the PS. The single relay option uses the park light input wire as the trigger to energize relay coil for change-over from DRL to head light mode.

My setup relocates the DRL function from the low beam headlamp to the park/turn lamp which utilizes an amber/white switchback LED sourced from Supernova. After I installed and tested the DS harness with truck parked in garage I noticed that I too encountered a high frequency buzzing or relay chatter during certain electrical power modes. Even with the annoying relay chatter all LED lights operated as expected. What I found out is that a few seconds after engine start the BCM supplied voltage to the park light input dropped from around 14.5v to 9.5v for approximately 60-90 seconds then ramps back up to 14.5v when the chatter would stop. During the voltage decrease the relay chatter began around 9.8v and continued to chatter until voltage increased to above 10.5v.

With the understanding that this is a PWM DC circuit I had to figure out a simple way of stabilizing the park light input voltage to the electro-mechanical (EMR) SPDT relay coil. After much internal debate I decided to incorporate a solid-state (SSR) relay. I elected to purchase 2 each E-T-A, PN: ESR10-NC2A4HB-00-D1-10A from Mouser Electronics. These SSR’s have a ‘Control input IN.a’ (ON) voltage range of 6v to 16v with an (OFF) voltage range of 0v to 2v and rated at 10 amps. The SSR is used to sense the PWM park light input then in-turn output a stable 12v which I sourced from within the X50A fuse block.

After I incorporated these SSR’s into my current short harness set-up and reinstalled on the truck… BINGO, WE HAVE A WINNER!!! No more relay chatter during ANY electrical power mode, the EMR is now is receiving a stable (non BCM PWM) 12v signal to its coil.

See diagram below for illustration of short harness that incorporates SSR and EMR relays.


Driver's side harness. EMR mounted to inner fender rail. SSR mounted outboard and
below X50A fuse block and is encased with pipe insulation.


Passenger's side harness. EMR mounted to air intake box. SSR mounted to
support leg of air intake leg and is encased with pipe insulation.
Awesome work! Wish I had more time to work on this over the past several months, but it appears you solved it.
 

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KWD - I would like to see your schematic diagram. I had been looking for SPDT solid state relay to incorporate into the original design, but apparently they don't exist. You original post is not available. I believe I understand what you did. Congrats.
 

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KWD - I would like to see your schematic diagram. I had been looking for SPDT solid state relay to incorporate into the original design, but apparently they don't exist. You original post is not available. I believe I understand what you did. Congrats.
Luckily I quoted his post in my reply above. The pics are still showing up in that quote as far as I can tell.
 

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I wonder why @KWD-BR549's posts keep getting deleted? He didn't appear to violate any terms of use, and this is the second time his contribution was yanked from this thread.
 
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