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lqdchkn's build thread

90K views 145 replies 41 participants last post by  lqdchkn 
#1 · (Edited)
2016 CCSB Brownstone 4x4 Z71
-Factory Bedliner
-Black Bowties

Current:



Mods:
KING front and rear with 1 inch rear block
Fuel Vector 17x8.5 +7
Goodyear Duratrac 265/70/17
CB Radio - Cobra 29LX
BAMF Sliders - in progress
Swapped rear steering wheel controls
OEM Fender Flares
Fab Fours premium rear bumper
Baja Designs hood light mounts
SUPERMODULATION SuperSkidz Front skid
Removed headlight switch "Auto" return spring - bigboi98 mod
[strike]DiamondBack 270[/strike]
Ambient light sensor override
GM 4 note horns
El Cheapo external A-pillar light
GM work light
GM ZR2 Rock Sliders
Leer 180 cap
Ride Rite Firestone (no drill) air helper springs

2/22/16 Picked up from dealer


2/27/16 Debadged

3/5/16 Installed CB Cobra 29LX




And here is the down side of this mounting location
Having to decide how much room you want/need to move the seat forward or open the glovebox :serious: I chose being able to move the seat almost all the way forward but still may tweak this a bit.


3/12/16 Swapped Rear Steering Wheel Controls :)

3/26/16 Fab Fours Premium rear bumper More Bumper at post #13
 
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#45 · (Edited)
Last weekend I put the DiamondBack 270 in.

Diamondback 270 installed






Honestly the fit isn't want I was expecting given the cost of this thing but it's tolerable. I'm more than sure it will perform as I need it too and it does appear to be a solid unit. And holy crap :surprise: does it get friggn hot :surprise:
 
#47 ·
Last weekend I put the DiamondBack 270 in.

...And holy crap :surprise: does it get friggn hot :surprise:
Wow! That looks amazing. Never heard of that one. Another bookmark to add to my wishlist!
 
#50 ·
Did the Pop Lock power tailgate lock mod today. Now I need 1 less key to get under the tonneau. :grin2:
http://coloradofans.com/forums/201-...-lighting/239138-how-power-tailgate-lock.html

Tried to install my Aux bed battery tray today but after drilling the first hole in and trying to insert the rivnut I found it wouldn't grab :frown2: Apparently with the added thickness of the bedliner I got the wrong size rivnuts, so that project is still on hold :frown2:
 
#51 · (Edited)
Installed bed mounted second battery for fridge and power when camping, solar will be coming soon to keep it charged up. Also modified some car trunk cargo slides so that they'd hold all my crap in place. They are the triangular wedge thingys, battery box is mounted in the middle against the bulkhead



Also added L-track tie down point along the tonneau edges, sides and back, to strap down longer stuff that wont fit in the bed.







 
#58 · (Edited)
Looking good. Is the second battery charged solely from the solar or is it tied into the truck as well? A second battery is on my to do list and I'm trying to figure out the best solution.
The original plan was to tie it in but I don't want to run all the heavy gauge wire over the distances needed so it's going to be a dedicated "house" battery. It is a direct OEM replacement so if I "had to" I could pull it and swap it in but most likely since it's a PITA to remove (and so is the stocker for that matter) I'm going to pick up a long set of jumper cables to use to "self jump" if I ever needed to.

Looks like an awesome build!

Question, those bed organizers, how are they attached? Are they secured to the bed in any way or are they simply a "wedge" type that is held in place by the object they are securing? Just curious.
Those are these things:

https://www.amazon.com/TRUNK-CARGO-...=1473174651&sr=8-4&keywords=CARGO+CONTAINMENT

I couldnt decide between them or these Weathertech ones:

https://www.amazon.com/WeatherTech-...=1473174651&sr=8-1&keywords=CARGO+CONTAINMENT

The Weathertech ones have rubberized bottoms so the weight of the object + rubber footing keeps stuff from sliding.

I wasn't sure though about the Weathertech ones being "corner" shaped how they would work on various sized items so I tried these.
The ones I have I thought were similar as there was no description of the bottoms...well I was wrong. They had little pieces of rough velcro and plastic spikes on the bottoms to grip a carpeted trunk. Since that obviously wasn't going to work, I took the velcros off and an angle grinder to the spikes and roughened up the bottoms with a nice texture then coated them with plasti-dip (about 1/2 can per bottom so it's nice an thick). They work really well but occasionally do need adjusting since bumps and rough roads do unweight the stuff giving it slight opportunities to "adjust", which builds up and they will fully loosen over time. I doubt the Weathertech ones would be too different in that respect though.
 
#61 · (Edited)
#62 ·
I like the blue sea systems fuse block they make great stuff I use it all in my boat and service trucks.
 
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#66 · (Edited)
Not any more. I had to trim the filler panel that goes between the front bumper and the wheel well liner. You can remove this panel independently of the bumper and because of the way it's designed, easily trim a section off where the liner attaches and then remount it. This gave me just the room i needed to prevent rubbing in the liner. I will also note in case you missed it that i'm not running the front sway bar with my coilovers, so i have no idea if there would be an issue for you there. Others have had issues rubbing in the sway bar.
 
#67 ·
Your truck looks great. I would like to know your thoughts on the King coilovers. How is the ride comfort on road? Overall would you recommend them for the money spent? Did you get the adjusters and if so are they worth the extra expense? I don't expect to be doing any high speeds off road but slower east coast trails.
Thanks for your reply.
 
#68 ·
Thank you.

Yes, I'm very happy with the KINGs. I did get the compression adjusters as i wanted to keep at least stock like performance when cornering and be able to remove the front sway bar. With the fronts set to full hard i've been able to do that and they still have a nice ride.
 
#72 · (Edited)
I splice the + for my relay circuits into the + for the device power. Then I just run the relay circuit ground inside the cabin to the switch and ground it out.

Following a standard Bosch relay pinout, that would mean I tap 86 (you can use 86 or 85 most relays don't care) into 30 somewhere before 30 goes to your fused Batt +.

That allows me to cut that wire short (very close to the relay socket) and keep wiring a bit cleaner as now there's only one Batt + to run for the whole schebang. The relay circuit really doesn't add any significant draw and you know your relay is always energized as long as the device power is hooked up.
 
#73 ·
Do I understand then that you are using a separate relay and applying fused +v directly to the horns instead of grounding the low side of the factory relay coil? I was going to just find another way to energize the factory horn relay like the steering wheel horn switch does instead of adding a separate relay. Either way works, I guess. Thanks.
Phil
 
#76 ·
bock vs add a leaf

I have a similar setup where I need to lift the rear after a front suspension lift and would like to know why you went with a block vs add a leaf for the rear lift and if there is another option you would consider?
 
#77 ·
I have a similar setup where I need to lift the rear after a front suspension lift and would like to know why you went with a block vs add a leaf for the rear lift and if there is another option you would consider?
Got your PM, PM'd you back :grin2:
 
#80 · (Edited)
Installed aFe IC pipes





Had to black out the logos since it's not like aFe is paying me for the advertising. I didn't want to remove them because the piping was thin and I was scared to tear the pipes.
 
#83 · (Edited)
Cleaned up my little fuse block and the relays I had just zip tied to the electric heater connector. Made a little plastic bracket to mount everything to the fender. It's nothing special but makes everything look tidier.

 
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