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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now that I have your attention. I asked the question about lowering the back end of a Colorado last Dec. when I was considering buying a Colorado/Canyon. I have shorter legs and won't be doing much rock crawling or desert racing. There wasn't a way to lower just the rear of a standard Colorado. I ended up ordering a ZR2 and love it. I have been following all the threads on these new trucks and like what people are doing.
So, I was wondering if I could take out the 1" block that the ZR2 has. Also would I have to order new u bolts. It looks like there is enough thread on the existing ones to tighten up. I understand how the new shocks work but if I'm not hauling anything around or carrying any heavy loads, I don't see how the shocks would be effected too much for my type of use. I don't want to change anything on the front end but would like to level it out. I'm just considering the idea and wanted to here the pros and cons. It should be easy to put it back the way it was if I didn't like it. :serious:
 

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Now that I have your attention. I asked the question about lowering the back end of a Colorado last Dec. when I was considering buying a Colorado/Canyon. I have shorter legs and won't be doing much rock crawling or desert racing. There wasn't a way to lower just the rear of a standard Colorado. I ended up ordering a ZR2 and love it. I have been following all the threads on these new trucks and like what people are doing.
So, I was wondering if I could take out the 1" block that the ZR2 has. Also would I have to order new u bolts. It looks like there is enough thread on the existing ones to tighten up. I understand how the new shocks work but if I'm not hauling anything around or carrying any heavy loads, I don't see how the shocks would be effected too much for my type of use. I don't want to change anything on the front end but would like to level it out. I'm just considering the idea and wanted to here the pros and cons. It should be easy to put it back the way it was if I didn't like it. :serious:
Interesting, the ZR2 gets its lift from a block? wow ok......I'm thinking if you measure the threads on the u bolts and there is at least an inch left you should be good. Like you, I doubt the shocks will be an issue. It's only an inch, and it would take one hell of a load or bump to make them "bottom out" anyway. Just make sure there isn't anything special about the block that it needs to center the diff to the springs. Most likely not is my guess.

Just curious, the ZR2 is wider yes? How is that done? Wheel spacers? lol
 

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Interesting, the ZR2 gets its lift from a block? wow ok......I'm thinking if you measure the threads on the u bolts and there is at least an inch left you should be good. Like you, I doubt the shocks will be an issue. It's only an inch, and it would take one hell of a load or bump to make them "bottom out" anyway. Just make sure there isn't anything special about the block that it needs to center the diff to the springs. Most likely not is my guess.

Just curious, the ZR2 is wider yes? How is that done? Wheel spacers? lol
They actually have a wider rear.
I posed this exact same question in the ZR2 thread a while back, and was told the shocks were set to that height, and the block removal would affect their optimal operation. Reading and watching vids on how they operate, I can see why they are advising against deviating from their preset heights.
 
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The Multimatics are position and velocity sensitive. You mess with the ride center and the truck won't work. That block is 1 3/8 if you don't lower the shock mount 1 3/8 you might brake the shock mount Or your frame.


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Why would you buy a ZR2 if you want a lowered truck? Kinda defeats the purpose of the truck
While I agree with you, I might say that he likes the look, or doesn't have to buy the wheels/tires, has better suspension, IDK.


98% of jeeps never see a dirt trail
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The Multimatics are position and velocity sensitive. You mess with the ride center and the truck won't work. That block is 1 3/8 if you don't lower the shock mount 1 3/8 you might brake the shock mount Or your frame.


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That would be a way to make it work by changing where the shock mounts. What I am trying to figure out is why does it work to put a spacer in the front and push the shock tower down but it wouldn't work in the back by taking out the block. Both ways are changing the shock position but it seems to be working in the front.
 

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Why would you buy a ZR2 if you want a lowered truck? Kinda defeats the purpose of the truck
While I agree with you, I might say that he likes the look, or doesn't have to buy the wheels/tires, has better suspension, IDK.





98% of jeeps never see a dirt trail
Why pay the extra money though. Coulda bought an LTZ and used the savings to lower it. And still probably pay less in the long run
 

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I've wondered the same for my new Z71, but I don't think I can do that either, drop the back by 1" or so. I loved the way the ZR2 drove, but ended up going with a 2wd Z71 since it does what I really need it to do, for alot less. If they make a 2wd version, I'll be all over it. Mostly commuting in CA, with occasional camping/hunting/shooting excursions.
 

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That would be a way to make it work by changing where the shock mounts. What I am trying to figure out is why does it work to put a spacer in the front and push the shock tower down but it wouldn't work in the back by taking out the block. Both ways are changing the shock position but it seems to be working in the front.

I don't have a ZR2 in front of me but I'm thinking its like the others, the front spacer has no affect on the shock, it just moves the assembly down, raising the truck. The rear is going to move the shock center an inch if you lower the truck. But to say it will not work and things will break I think is being dramatic. If that was the case you couldn't even put a heavy load in the bed or pull a trailer with a heavy tongue weight. I think the worst thing that would happen is it could ride stiff (heavy damping) in the back because the shock thinks its compressed. But at the same time, I bet an inch is well within the shocks normal operating range so it wouldn't do anything. I say go for it.
:grin2:
 

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That would be a way to make it work by changing where the shock mounts. What I am trying to figure out is why does it work to put a spacer in the front and push the shock tower down but it wouldn't work in the back by taking out the block. Both ways are changing the shock position but it seems to be working in the front.
A few of the ZR2 owners are using the RC921 spacer up front. It sits on top the strut assemble. The position of the shock is not changed. The spacer is 5/8"thick to give us a 1.5" lift.
 
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I am willing To take my shocks off and swap with you since I raised my rear 1.5"
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Why would you buy a ZR2 if you want a lowered truck? Kinda defeats the purpose of the truck
What I am trying to do is level the look of the truck without lowering the front. I guess another way would be to haul around 3 motorcycles in the back like someone else posted. It looked pretty good accept I don't have the extra weight. :laugh:
 

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So a taller truck is a problem for you because you have shorter legs. You won't be doing much off-roading....you're getting a ZR2 because....?
 

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Why would you buy a ZR2 if you want a lowered truck? Kinda defeats the purpose of the truck

Exactly.

That would be a way to make it work by changing where the shock mounts. What I am trying to figure out is why does it work to put a spacer in the front and push the shock tower down but it wouldn't work in the back by taking out the block. Both ways are changing the shock position but it seems to be working in the front.

Spacer in the front has no effect of shock-spring relation. I have done it, works fine.

The Multimatics are position and velocity sensitive. You mess with the ride center and the truck won't work. That block is 1 3/8 if you don't lower the shock mount 1 3/8 you might brake the shock mount Or your frame.

This exactly.

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A few of the ZR2 owners are using the RC921 spacer up front. It sits on top the strut assemble. The position of the shock is not changed. The spacer is 5/8"thick to give us a 1.5" lift.

That's me! This is 100% correct.

So a taller truck is a problem for you because you have shorter legs. You won't be doing much off-roading....you're getting a ZR2 because....?

Great question.

I don't have a ZR2 in front of me but I'm thinking its like the others, the front spacer has no affect on the shock, it just moves the assembly down, raising the truck. The rear is going to move the shock center an inch if you lower the truck. But to say it will not work and things will break I think is being dramatic. If that was the case you couldn't even put a heavy load in the bed or pull a trailer with a heavy tongue weight. I think the worst thing that would happen is it could ride stiff (heavy damping) in the back because the shock thinks its compressed. But at the same time, I bet an inch is well within the shocks normal operating range so it wouldn't do anything. I say go for it.

:grin2:

Sure, let's risk $1800 worth of shocks instead of welding $10 worth of steps on the sliders. Makes sense. Take a look at a diagram of the shocks. I wouldn't want almost an inch and half difference in them over stock. It's more than just an inch lol.

Why not unbolt the rock sliders and bolt on a pair of side steps? They both bolt into the same location on the underside of the body...

Many have had great luck with the N Fab steps.





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Sure, let's risk $1800 worth of shocks instead of welding $10 worth of steps on the sliders. Makes sense. Take a look at a diagram of the shocks. I wouldn't want almost an inch and half difference in them over stock. It's more than just an inch lol.
lol is right. My math is way lacking....ALMOST an inch and a half is more than an inch. If those rear shocks are $900 each somebody got hosed, and I bet it wasn't GM. If those shocks can't take a inch and a half of compression I wouldn't pay 2 cents for them. Maybe he should take them off, put them in a frame and hang them over his fireplace. Then go down to Autozone and get non-ZR2 shocks and put them on. Problem solved. Whatcha think?

:grin2: :rofl
 
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lol is right. My math is way lacking....ALMOST an inch and a half is more than an inch. If those rear shocks are $900 each somebody got hosed, and I bet it wasn't GM. If those shocks can't take a inch and a half of compression I wouldn't pay 2 cents for them. Maybe he should take them off, put them in a frame and hang them over his fireplace. Then go down to Autozone and get non-ZR2 shocks and put them on. Problem solved. Whatcha think?



:grin2: :rofl


What I think is: countless hours of reasearch/development and engineering went into making the dssv precision damping units on the ZR2. With only 10 inches of travel in the rear, less than half of it up travel (let's just say half/5" to make it easy) I wouldn't want to move that closer to bottoming out by roughly 30% with an empty truck. Now put a few people in, bed full of whatever or a trailer, and you've now sagged it ANOTHER inch or more closer to bottoming out at ride height. Hitting a small road joint at speed would cause it to bottom out. Just trying to think about practicality. As for pricing, that's a question for GM.


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lol is right. My math is way lacking....ALMOST an inch and a half is more than an inch. If those rear shocks are $900 each somebody got hosed, and I bet it wasn't GM. If those shocks can't take a inch and a half of compression I wouldn't pay 2 cents for them. Maybe he should take them off, put them in a frame and hang them over his fireplace. Then go down to Autozone and get non-ZR2 shocks and put them on. Problem solved. Whatcha think?

:grin2: :rofl
The DSSV's are position sensitive, conventional shock absorbers can only offer one damping profile for compression and rebound; Multimatic's DSSV dampers offer six distinct damping curves on the ZR2's front axle, four at the rear, each acting on a different portion of the truck's suspension travel. The ZR2 has 8.6 inches front, 10 inches rear shock travel. The shocks are just over $800 and don't wear out like conventional shocks.
 
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