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I always use this graphic to understand backspacing vs offset.

Essentially offset is based off the “centerline” of your rims, backspacing is the distance measured from the flat of the back edge of the rim to where the mounting surfaces contact
Yea, I got that. My problem is, when shopping for wheels, identifying a setup that will give the exact stance I want before having a chance to put it on the truck, which is essentially having the tire align with the outer edge of the fender well, or maybe slightly past that.

Ideally, what I'd like to do is take my wheel off now, measure from the hub out to where I want the outer edge of my new wheel to be, and have a formula I plug that into and I get the wheel width, backspacing, and offset needed to achieve that look.
 

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Yea, I got that. My problem is, when shopping for wheels, identifying a setup that will give the exact stance I want before having a chance to put it on the truck, which is essentially having the tire align with the outer edge of the fender well, or maybe slightly past that.

Ideally, what I'd like to do is take my wheel off now, measure from the hub out to where I want the outer edge of my new wheel to be, and have a formula I plug that into and I get the wheel width, backspacing, and offset needed to achieve that look.
your wheels now are off-set 33mm, just measrue out how much further you want them to go out and subtract that
but then that goes blown out of the window if you go to a wider wheel
 

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your wheels now are off-set 33mm, just measrue out how much further you want them to go out and subtract that
but then that goes blown out of the window if you go to a wider wheel
So, my quick math is:
Current 8" wheel needs to be 1.25" further out than it is now. 1.25" = 31.75mm
However, going to a 9" wheel means I'll get .5" on either side, so I can reduce the 1.25" requirement down to .75", which is 19mm. So, 33-19 = 14. Does that sound right?

I see a lot of 18x9 +12, so that's probably what I'll have to go with, although that may end up sticking out further than I want, depending on tire size I go with.
 

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So, my quick math is:
Current 8" wheel needs to be 1.25" further out than it is now. 1.25" = 31.75mm
However, going to a 9" wheel means I'll get .5" on either side, so I can reduce the 1.25" requirement down to .75", which is 19mm. So, 33-19 = 14. Does that sound right?

I see a lot of 18x9 +12, so that's probably what I'll have to go with, although that may end up sticking out further than I want, depending on tire size I go with.
I believe so, some have pictures or some that are +15 right at the edge of the fenders,
I put on some 1.25 inch spacers on OEM wheels and brought them out to the edge of the fenders. Sold them when I went to 33's so I would not have to deal with back of the wheel well clearance issues
 

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I believe so, some have pictures or some that are +15 right at the edge of the fenders,
I put on some 1.25 inch spacers on OEM wheels and brought them out to the edge of the fenders. Sold them when I went to 33's so I would not have to deal with back of the wheel well clearance issues
One thing I'm forgetting is how much a lift will bring the wheels inward. I haven't decided yet, but somewhere between 3-5" of lift, and I'm sure that will bring them in. BTW, this is all planning for a 2021 4wd either LT or Z71.
 

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2021 GMC CANYON AT4
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Some of us OCD members had talked about how EVERY twin we looked at, the right rear wheel was 1/2" further out then the other 3 corners. When you try to 'stance' your rig, you try to get the wheels to have a very particular fitment being lined up or whatever, it becomes very obvious.

I had went to a GM dealership with my yardstick and a 1' ruler and measured at least a dozen twins. Colorados and Canyons, all different configurations, and all had this exact same 1/2" additional protrusion on the right rear. I had already ordered a set of 1.5" spacers all around for my yet to be picked up '18 Canyon and wondered if the '18s would have the same affliction.

I saw my '18 for the first time this past Tuesday and could see right away that it indeed, had the extra 1/2" protrusion on the right rear tire and measuring it confirmed it. No problem I thought, I'll complete my flares, lift, tires, alignment, remeasure, and then just order a single 1" spacer from Bora for that single wheel to make the stance even all around.

Now in advance I had purchased the Colorado OEM flares (the wider ones, not the real small ones) and had them paint matched to my truck. I swung by my painter and he kindly installed them for me. I hated the now tucked in wheel look but knew it was temporary just until I get my lift and spacers installed but I noticed right away that the right rear tire, didn't seem any different than the other tires any longer. well I busted out my trusty yardstick and ruler and imagine my surprise: With the fender flares installed, the additional right rear wheel protrusion that I see on every twin, was completely gone on my truck now!

I can't really explain it. I guess the axle is square to the frame, if not the truck bed, and the fender flares must sit a bit different and completely cures this issue. That's my best guess.

As my 5 year old like to say: That's WEIRD daddy!
Noticed the same thing on my 2021 Canyon, I bought 3 - 1.5" spacers and 1 - 1.25 in spacer for the side that stuck out more. Its perfect now.
 

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Noticed the same thing on my 2021 Canyon, I bought 3 - 1.5" spacers and 1 - 1.25 in spacer for the side that stuck out more. Its perfect now.
welcome to the forum, we need pictures of your lift truck in the lifted truck thread
 

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I have the Eibach pro stage one set on 2.75 with KO2’s size 285/65/18 very minor trimming, took off the front air dam and mud flaps for looks only. The 285’s have done great in the snow. Put about 4K miles on The kit it has settled about half inch but rides a lot better now so no complaints here.
Hi question thinking about doing a similar lift. Did you replace your upper control arms? Your truck looks awesome . Thanks
 

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Yeah I was going for something beefy. I knew I was going to go tall with the tires and use a set of 1.5" spacers to clear the sway bar. I hate when the top of a tire sticks out beyond the wheel well / fender but also didn't want the whole tire to be sucked inside the bottom of the body. When you put a lift spacer on the IFS it changes the geometry and pulls the wheel in closer to the frame as it raises the truck. Counter that with a spacer and keep the tires relative ly similar in width to stock and I ended up with a look I really like. The flares stick out just enough more than the tires to do their job, but as the body line curves inward just the outer edge or the tire is exposed to show off the beefy trad design. I never understood people who put fender flares on vehicles where the tires are so wide or the flares are so skinny that the tires stick out further than the flares. Kind of defeats the whole purpose of putting the flares on. Assuming you are putting them on for practical reasons and not just aesthetics. If its a looks hing, by all means do what you like. I sure did W

What kind a tires are you using? Beautiful truck BTW
 
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