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I have 18" wheels with the eibach kit set at 2.7" and it rubs with a tire one size up (265/65/18) and required trimming. If you are going to go bigger, I would consider getting a skinnier tire. Honestly though, If you just get an A/T tire it would make a difference in appearance while keeping a 265/60/18 stock tire size. I also have 1.5" wheel spacers.
so with out spacers you can go at least 265/65/18with a level and possibly 275/65/18 with that lift on stock wheels
 

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so with out spacers you can go at least 265/65/18with a level and possibly 275/65/18 with that lift on stock wheels
I would look into that on the forum. My 265/65/18 rub on my aftermarket UCAs (freedom Offroad) without spacers. With the spacers, they rub on the front fender waffle and the rear pinch weld. The 275/65/18 are bigger and wider so I'm sure they definitely will rub. I also did a speedo recalibration for the tire size with a trifecta tune. I want to inform you on all this because there aren't many people with the 18" wheels with bigger tires so you'll see a lot of mods with the 17" wheels.

***The colorado is a hard truck to modify without other upgrades. The square wheel wells really limit what you can add without doing a 5-6in lift, which in your case with a lease, you don't want to do.
 
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I have 18" wheels with the eibach kit set at 2.7" and it rubs with a tire one size up (265/65/18) and required trimming. If you are going to go bigger, I would consider getting a skinnier tire. Honestly though, If you just get an A/T tire it would make a difference in appearance while keeping a 265/60/18 stock tire size. I also have 1.5" wheel spacers.
Thanks for the reply. i had nitto grappler on my last truck fairly aggresive not too loud on the highway. i will look into those again. Thanks Again!
 

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I would look into that on the forum. My 265/65/18 rub on my aftermarket UCAs (freedom Offroad) without spacers. With the spacers, they rub on the front fender waffle and the rear pinch weld. The 275/65/18 are bigger and wider so I'm sure they definitely will rub. I also did a speedo recalibration for the tire size with a trifecta tune. I want to inform you on all this because there aren't many people with the 18" wheels with bigger tires so you'll see a lot of mods with the 17" wheels.
Lots of people on this forum have gone up one size with leaving the suspensionit stock or going to a level or 2 inch lift

what gets people in trouble is the after market wheels, spacers and suspension parts.
 

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Just a sanity check post before I buy stuff. Truck is a 2017 Canyon All Terrain diesel. I’d like to upgrade to the Bilstien leveling setup with 265/70’s on the factory wheel. Works?
Yep

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

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Planning to have my 3” peak suspension lift with 1” add a leaf installed this week. Got some 18x9 10mm offset wheels to go with it. I called discount tire and they said I should be able to fit 275/70/18 with no trimming. I picked up some cooper at3 xlt tires that size from a friend almost new for $400 and was stoked, but after reading through a majority of this thread I’m feeling nervous about that size tire fitting without major trimming. What do you guys think? Could I leave my 1.25 zone level on the front along with new suspension and that would help some? Thanks for any help! Can’t wait to have my truck look like some of you guys...
 

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2017 GMC Canyon All Terrain Duramax
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I've got the bds kit and love it. I'm off roading weekly and can't speak highly enough for the company. I'm switching to the dsc coilovers that bds is selling, but it took me a bit to spend the extra money on them..... I blame it on the baby haha. I did recently remove the air dam and love the look.
408025
408028
 

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2017 Chevrolet Colorado Z71
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112 Posts
My 2018 Z71. Current mods are:
Dirt King upper control arms
Eibach Pro lift
Icon 1" rear block
Peak diff drop
285/70R17 KO2s
Air dam delete

View attachment 409321
How much trimming to get those 285's to fit?
I have the same size on my truck with a 4" lift (with 0 offers wheels though)
Still scrubs on full lock when I hit a bump.
Your truck is looking good btw 👌🏽
 

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How much trimming to get those 285's to fit?
I have the same size on my truck with a 4" lift (with 0 offers wheels though)
Still scrubs on full lock when I hit a bump.
Your truck is looking good btw 👌🏽
I didn't trim anything. I rub on the frame and sway bar at full lock but that's it.

Thanks.
 

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2016 GMC Canyon SLE
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138 Posts
We definitely need some performance parts and hopefully soon. These trucks are pretty slow off the line with the V6, I can't imagine the 4.
Idk... I guess...
I have a pedal commander. I casually had a 3way races between a new f150 crew cab and... A lifted last gen silverado?

Casual in that, 3 guys in trucks just rolled off the line and all ended up flooring it to 64
I won.
Beat the f150 twice in the same manner. Other guess got third.
 

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For the ones that have the Zone 5.5” lift. Are the rear shocks that Zone offers with kit (NITRO SERIES) are they any good or is it better to just upgrade to the Fox shocks?


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We definitely need some performance parts and hopefully soon. These trucks are pretty slow off the line with the V6, I can't imagine the 4.
Yes indeed and Colorados want to downshift when going up small grades .
That is why I had a RiPP Supercharger system installed. Mine has re-gapped rings a f85
sensor and makes 430 RWHP and is very fast. Speed limiter removed and with the front
air damn gone above 120 mph my truck wants to rise and be unstable. I keep it under 120mph now. The 6" suspension lift lets alot of air underneath truck. Love the kick ass power and sound.
 

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Thanks for the compliments. Wheel offset is 12, but I forgot to include that I am running .75" Bora spacers. I typically wouldn't recommend the spacers but I wanted a ZR2 like stance with these wheels so I decided to go for it. It kind of had the "skateboard" look being lifted with a narrow track width, so the extra 1.5" helped out a bunch. As a result, I had to cut more of the fenders out to accommodate that to prevent rubbing.
I'm still trying to figure this out for my own planning, so hopefully I don't open a can of worms with this question, but: If you want a wheel to stick out further to avoid the skateboard look, wouldn't less backspacing (for the same brand/type wheel) be the fix? Or, is backspacing not something that can be changed, so offset is used instead? Or, if you've decided on the brand/type wheel, does changing offset also change backspacing, given that the full width of the wheel is already set? I know what they are (offset is from mount to center; backspacing is from mount to inside lip), but I'm always confused on which one you can play with to get the desired look, and which one is pre-determined by the wheel you choose. I think manufacturer specifies maximum backspacing so you don't hit things on the inner side of tire (control arms and stuff).

Sorry for the stupid question, but backspacing and offset throws me for a loop everytime I start thinking about wheels. I feel like that's the most important part to nail down when shopping for wheels to get that exact stance you're looking for. I don't want to get it wrong and have to use spacers.

Just to add to this, I guess the sidewall of chosen tire may also stick out different amounts than other tires, so this would factor into the total "look" of the width also?
 

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Lots of people on this forum have gone up one size with leaving the suspensionit stock or going to a level or 2 inch lift

what gets people in trouble is the after market wheels, spacers and suspension parts.
For power I have a RiPP supercharger system (409 RWHP) plus a 6" Rough Country
suspension lift. I run Raceline wheels with 33" tires. Love it!
 

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For power I have a RiPP supercharger system (409 RWHP) plus a 6" Rough Country
suspension lift. I run Raceline wheels with 33" tires. Love it!
nice truck

fyi, go to the intro and introduce your self and tell us allwhat yoou have done to your truck, with pictures of course
 

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2004 Colorado Ext Cab Z71 2021 Canyon AT4
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I'm still trying to figure this out for my own planning, so hopefully I don't open a can of worms with this question, but: If you want a wheel to stick out further to avoid the skateboard look, wouldn't less backspacing (for the same brand/type wheel) be the fix? Or, is backspacing not something that can be changed, so offset is used instead? Or, if you've decided on the brand/type wheel, does changing offset also change backspacing, given that the full width of the wheel is already set? I know what they are (offset is from mount to center; backspacing is from mount to inside lip), but I'm always confused on which one you can play with to get the desired look, and which one is pre-determined by the wheel you choose. I think manufacturer specifies maximum backspacing so you don't hit things on the inner side of tire (control arms and stuff).

Sorry for the stupid question, but backspacing and offset throws me for a loop everytime I start thinking about wheels. I feel like that's the most important part to nail down when shopping for wheels to get that exact stance you're looking for. I don't want to get it wrong and have to use spacers.

Just to add to this, I guess the sidewall of chosen tire may also stick out different amounts than other tires, so this would factor into the total "look" of the width also?
I always use this graphic to understand backspacing vs offset.

Essentially offset is based off the “centerline” of your rims, backspacing is the distance measured from the flat of the back edge of the rim to where the mounting surfaces contact
 
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