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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed DRL harness and switchbacks about 10 days ago, everything working great. Go out this morning and right side switchback is dead. I assumed I bought good LED's, $30 for the pair. Sent back with Amazon warranty and ordered a set at $35. They look just like the ones I sent back. Different brand but probably from same factory in China.

What kind of life span and/or failure rate are you LED users seeing?
I just ordered 2 sets for the rear lights, now I'm gun shy, OEM bulbs last for years.
 

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I installed DRL harness and switchbacks about 10 days ago, everything working great. Go out this morning and right side switchback is dead. I assumed I bought good LED's, $30 for the pair. Sent back with Amazon warranty and ordered a set at $35. They look just like the ones I sent back. Different brand but probably from same factory in China.

What kind of life span and/or failure rate are you LED users seeing?
I just ordered 2 sets for the rear lights, now I'm gun shy, OEM bulbs last for years.
Buy from Diode Dynamics and you can't go wrong. More money but has great warranty and super customer service. HAven't had one of their's fail yet but other brands have. I am now a total DD fan!!!:smile2::smile2::smile2::smile2::smile2:
 

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Acme from the the retrofit Source they were 40 bucks I've had them for 3 months and they're still going strong beforehand I killed two sets within a month sometimes eBay is not the best place to get parts LOL not to mention customer service with the retrofit source is phenomenal.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
 

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The LED itself will last almost forever. It's the electronics and thermal management that fails prematurely. There are zero industry standards and it's a crap shoot. A lot need to be sealed better too, some silicone around the frame helps. I typically get better life out of incandescents because of those issues. Although I've put in better backup and bed lights that are LED on this truck because I need brighter stuff for when I'm towing and doing early morning/late night connections and strap checks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Follow up on my LED switchbacks, it was a connector problem caused by the idiot installer, me. All fixed, I'm waiting on 4 resisters to install LED tail lights. I've been buying all my LED's from Alla Lighting off Amazon. Looking at LED's to replace hi and low beams, found extended dust covers I think I well use.

I see a few have had the resisters fail, I assume you get a hyper flash with all lights working. I'll order a few spares.
 

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Follow up on my LED switchbacks, it was a connector problem caused by the idiot installer, me. All fixed, I'm waiting on 4 resisters to install LED tail lights. I've been buying all my LED's from Alla Lighting off Amazon. Looking at LED's to replace hi and low beams, found extended dust covers I think I well use.

I see a few have had the resisters fail, I assume you get a hyper flash with all lights working. I'll order a few spares.
Yeah, my tail light resistors keep blowing so I'm working on building some plug and play harnesses once I get some new better quality resistors.
 

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Yeah, my tail light resistors keep blowing so I'm working on building some plug and play harnesses once I get some new better quality resistors.

Put a couple of these puppies in below. . . 6.8 ohm 75 watt. 50% more safety factor.

Be sure to mount securely as good and flat as you can. Heat sink paste might also help. . ..

Cheers!

These or the second one. 6.8 ohm should work fine - -

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...rIkmrvidNw3CpujCJIJbTU3U84FtkwEq%2bxA8gzi7A==

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ohmite/HS75-6R-F/?qs=bvCpHSZmQjlBKEEmjCB6ZQ==
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah, my tail light resistors keep blowing so I'm working on building some plug and play harnesses once I get some new better quality resistors.

After reading your post on the rear stop/turn/tail light conversion I decided to do it. I ordered the 50w 6ohm gold aluminum resistors everyone sells. I plan on mounting to a metal surface for cooling. Let me know what kind of upgraded resister works out for you.
I guess I should make up some kind of plugin setup for the resistors and not just use the scotch loc's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Put a couple of these puppies in below. . . 6.8 ohm 75 watt. 50% more safety factor.

Be sure to mount securely as good and flat as you can. Heat sink paste might also help. . ..

Cheers!

These or the second one. 6.8 ohm should work fine - -

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...rIkmrvidNw3CpujCJIJbTU3U84FtkwEq%2bxA8gzi7A==

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ohmite/HS75-6R-F/?qs=bvCpHSZmQjlBKEEmjCB6ZQ==
Thanks for reminding me about heat sink paste, I have some here if it's not died from old age.
 
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Agree that all LEDs may not last the 20K, 30K or 50K hours they claim.

We seem to be living in the advent cutting edge of LEDs for automotive use. Part of it is the range of voltage that exists for automotive electrical systems. The voltage can range from 12.6VDC or sometimes less and up to 15.5VDC or so. If the designer for whatever LED product did not take that into account or used cheap LEDs then they won't last.

Also, there are quite few different types of LEDs being used depending on the application. Single LED emitters, Cree, multi element COB, etc. And, of course, many come from China where quality and design may be questionable. Then, in the case of LED headlights or fog lights there is the heat factor and how to dissipate it without damaging the LEDs.

I think we are just on the bleeding edge of LED use in automotive systems and so many cheap wannabes are in the market. Even name brand LEDs are not necessarily immune from premature failure.

In the case of headlights, I look at the price of decent halogens and shake my head at $30 to $40 for a set or more. And halogens loose brightness over time plus some like Silverstars may not even last a year! So if I can buy an LED H11 replacement and have it last a year or two at this point I am ok with that.

Technology improves so as time goes on so will LEDs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Agree that all LEDs may not last the 20K, 30K or 50K hours they claim.

We seem to be living in the advent cutting edge of LEDs for automotive use. Part of it is the range of voltage that exists for automotive electrical systems. The voltage can range from 12.6VDC or sometimes less and up to 15.5VDC or so. If the designer for whatever LED product did not take that into account or used cheap LEDs then they won't last.

Also, there are quite few different types of LEDs being used depending on the application. Single LED emitters, Cree, multi element COB, etc. And, of course, many come from China where quality and design may be questionable. Then, in the case of LED headlights or fog lights there is the heat factor and how to dissipate it without damaging the LEDs.

I think we are just on the bleeding edge of LED use in automotive systems and so many cheap wannabes are in the market. Even name brand LEDs are not necessarily immune from premature failure.

In the case of headlights, I look at the price of decent halogens and shake my head at $30 to $40 for a set or more. And halogens loose brightness over time plus some like Silverstars may not even last a year! So if I can buy an LED H11 replacement and have it last a year or two at this point I am ok with that.

Technology improves so as time goes on so will LEDs.
I couldn't agree more. I've watched the evolution of weapons lights the past 10-12 years, they have gotten brighter, smaller, more robust and longer battery life. Another new area is LED's for plant growth, I'm amazed at how well they work and all with little to no heat. Heat has been the big problem with grow lights for indoor plants. No, not that kind of plant:wink2:, I collect rare Aloe cactus.
 
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