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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm bouncing back and forth between a few ideas. New head unit, keep factory head unit and just add an amp and new speakers.

Speakers are a whole other question. I've spoke to a couple good peeps at Crutchfield and they've given me 2 ideas. One being a component set in the front and the other being removing the dash speakers and just running a 2 or 3 way 6x9 in the doors.

So if you're reading this post, what do you have going on?

If I stick with the factory head unit, I am thinking of the Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack amp and a component set. I currently have Polk audio db651 speakers in the rear doors.

If I replace the head unit, not sure about the component set vs. 6x9 in the doors. Just looking for ideas, thoughts, suggestions. I listen to all rock and metal, so I don't need to shake vehicle. But good full sound the the goal.
 

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Lots of threads on upgrades floating around here, some upgrading bose and some upgrading non bose. Bose only pushes low range to the front door speakers so keep that in mind.


I kept factory bose head unit and swapped door and center dash speakers, added 2 amps and a sub, currently trying out a different box to see if it can replace my larger vented box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Lots of threads on upgrades floating around here, some upgrading bose and some upgrading non bose. Bose only pushes low range to the front door speakers so keep that in mind.


I kept factory bose head unit and swapped door and center dash speakers, added 2 amps and a sub, currently trying out a different box to see if it can replace my larger vented box.
I guess I need to find someone on here who has a non Bose system and has added an amp and new speakers. If the factory head unit plays nice with aftermarket speakers I should be fine.
 

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I guess I need to find someone on here who has a non Bose system and has added an amp and new speakers. If the factory head unit plays nice with aftermarket speakers I should be fine.
I had an amp with aftermarket speakers and a sub. I lost all chimes in the process, which bothered me most. I went back to no amp and I put a fosgate PS-8 under the rear seat but kept the speakers in the doors that I replaced. I had a 6.5 component set in the front doors and 6.5" 3 ways in the rear doors. I hated it. I kept the 6.5" 3 ways in the rear doors and put 6x9 3 ways in the front. I also replaced the 2.75" speakers up by the windshield with Sundown Audios. TBH, replacing the 2.75" speakers made more difference than anything except the sub in the rear. Stock head unit (non-Bose) has enough power to deliver to the speakers in the door (which are rated 75w RMS). All in all, Im happy with whats done. It was a huge pain in the butt to get it where I wanted but I think Im going to replace the head unit as well. I find the stock unit lacking, as I always do. I dont use onstar, I didnt get nav and there are connectors that will allow me to keep the back up cam and chimes. The dash kit also removes the radio buttons, which I find annoying so I see all this as a win.

Advice...the front speaker space is shallow so you cant throw massive 6x9s in there. The window will come down on the magnet. This is not a huge issue, however, as I have the bass a little less than half on the head unit and use the sub for most of the bass so the 6x9's provide a really nice, tight mid-base. The rears are just fillers so I wouldnt go crazy back there. Focus more on mids and highs in the rear doors. If you're looking for alternative selection on boxes for the rear instead of the all-in-one 8", subthump.com has a really good selection for a decent price. All meant to fit in that back space. Everything from 1 8" to 2 shallow 10's. Some of them have space for an amp as well so you dont have to go searching for a place to mount an amp. If you have electric seats, keep the amp away from there as the motor will hit it.

Probably not as in depth as what someone else could provide, but this was my experience. Hope it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had an amp with aftermarket speakers and a sub. I lost all chimes in the process, which bothered me most. I went back to no amp and I put a fosgate PS-8 under the rear seat but kept the speakers in the doors that I replaced. I had a 6.5 component set in the front doors and 6.5" 3 ways in the rear doors. I hated it. I kept the 6.5" 3 ways in the rear doors and put 6x9 3 ways in the front. I also replaced the 2.75" speakers up by the windshield with Sundown Audios. TBH, replacing the 2.75" speakers made more difference than anything except the sub in the rear. Stock head unit (non-Bose) has enough power to deliver to the speakers in the door (which are rated 75w RMS). All in all, Im happy with whats done. It was a huge pain in the butt to get it where I wanted but I think Im going to replace the head unit as well. I find the stock unit lacking, as I always do. I dont use onstar, I didnt get nav and there are connectors that will allow me to keep the back up cam and chimes. The dash kit also removes the radio buttons, which I find annoying so I see all this as a win.

Advice...the front speaker space is shallow so you cant throw massive 6x9s in there. The window will come down on the magnet. This is not a huge issue, however, as I have the bass a little less than half on the head unit and use the sub for most of the bass so the 6x9's provide a really nice, tight mid-base. The rears are just fillers so I wouldnt go crazy back there. Focus more on mids and highs in the rear doors. If you're looking for alternative selection on boxes for the rear instead of the all-in-one 8", subthump.com has a really good selection for a decent price. All meant to fit in that back space. Everything from 1 8" to 2 shallow 10's. Some of them have space for an amp as well so you dont have to go searching for a place to mount an amp. If you have electric seats, keep the amp away from there as the motor will hit it.

Probably not as in depth as what someone else could provide, but this was my experience. Hope it helps.
Wonder why you lost the chimes with that setup?
 

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I'm not sure. I took it to two different shops to see if there was anything I missed. Neither could find anything. All wires were connected properly but the chimes were gone. All except the initial chime when you open the door and that was deafening. No blinker sounds. I even left the blinkers on for an extended period. I got the display warning but no noise.

After removing the 5 channel amp everything came back to normal so I kept it that way.
 

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I've been back and forth on this as well. My issue is that if I go aftermarket, things will get crazy and expensive for me fast (new alt, extra batteries, multi amps, dsp, 3 way active, etc). Tempting. One of the reasons I ended up buying a pick up is so that I couldn't go too crazy. I will say the stock setup is decently staged for a stock setup though.

Link to my previous explorer build here

Think there might be some pictures of my bagged malibu in there too...unsure if it shows the audio setup, but have an old video of that....here
 

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I kept HU, replaced all speakers with Infinities and JBLs, added compact sub and amp and LOC.....sounds awesome and truck looks the same....only lost space under rear seats due to sub/amp....
 

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Any pics Morbius? I am in the same boat as the OP - the truck I want/found doesnt have the Bose and it cant be added they are saying.....so it looks like if I get this truck I will be adding my own system.

I am an audiophile so SQ is paramount to me.

Anyone else have any tips on how to put in a premium system? Does the stock HU play nice with after market amps/systems?
 

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Any pics Morbius? I am in the same boat as the OP - the truck I want/found doesnt have the Bose and it cant be added they are saying.....so it looks like if I get this truck I will be adding my own system.

I am an audiophile so SQ is paramount to me.

Anyone else have any tips on how to put in a premium system? Does the stock HU play nice with after market amps/systems?
So I do have the BOSE, after all upgrades interior look of the truck has not changed at all. I did have to enlarge front side dash speaker holes, but once dash trim was back in place, can't tell there are much larger (and better) speakers. I did lose room under rear seats. Here's pics (sorry for glare). The first is my LOC (line output converter) AudioControl LCQ-1 with equalizer. The LOC is mounted behind rear seat on driver's side. The LOC is running all four door speakers using stock BOSE amp outputs. Outputs from my LOC run to Blaupunkt 600W amp which powers all four door speakers. Next pic is under seat showing Blaupunkt amp and Kicker compact sub. As you can see I lost all storage room under seats...Kicker amp is fed from stock BOSE amp outputs which were originally driving both front door speakers....

Attached list of what I installed...


 

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I had an amp with aftermarket speakers and a sub. I lost all chimes in the process, which bothered me most. I went back to no amp and I put a fosgate PS-8 under the rear seat but kept the speakers in the doors that I replaced. I had a 6.5 component set in the front doors and 6.5" 3 ways in the rear doors. I hated it. I kept the 6.5" 3 ways in the rear doors and put 6x9 3 ways in the front. I also replaced the 2.75" speakers up by the windshield with Sundown Audios. TBH, replacing the 2.75" speakers made more difference than anything except the sub in the rear. Stock head unit (non-Bose) has enough power to deliver to the speakers in the door (which are rated 75w RMS). All in all, Im happy with whats done. It was a huge pain in the butt to get it where I wanted but I think Im going to replace the head unit as well. I find the stock unit lacking, as I always do. I dont use onstar, I didnt get nav and there are connectors that will allow me to keep the back up cam and chimes. The dash kit also removes the radio buttons, which I find annoying so I see all this as a win.

Advice...the front speaker space is shallow so you cant throw massive 6x9s in there. The window will come down on the magnet. This is not a huge issue, however, as I have the bass a little less than half on the head unit and use the sub for most of the bass so the 6x9's provide a really nice, tight mid-base. The rears are just fillers so I wouldnt go crazy back there. Focus more on mids and highs in the rear doors. If you're looking for alternative selection on boxes for the rear instead of the all-in-one 8", subthump.com has a really good selection for a decent price. All meant to fit in that back space. Everything from 1 8" to 2 shallow 10's. Some of them have space for an amp as well so you dont have to go searching for a place to mount an amp. If you have electric seats, keep the amp away from there as the motor will hit it.

Probably not as in depth as what someone else could provide, but this was my experience. Hope it helps.
If you tapped into both front and rear speaker outputs to your line out converter, the signal is too strong and it's causing the loud chimes. I only tapped into the front outputs (both front and rear outputs are full range) and I don't have any issue with the chimes. I have a 3way frontstage and left the rear speakers connected so I can have rear fill when I have backseat passengers inside, simply moving the fader to the front or back gives me nice versatility.
 

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Picking up my new 2016 Colorado today, as an AVID Audiophile, I will be making changes asap to the stock system. I went without the Bose due to all the mot so impressive reviews I have seem, the fact it has a center channel etc and seems to be generally harder to improve than a stock system.

My plan is to:

1) Install some JL C2-350x's in place of the stock tweeter location: C2-350x - Car Audio - Evolution® - C2 - Coaxial Systems - JL Audio
2) Replace the lower 6x9 location with a decent well made 6.5" driver. As I understand it, the front lower speaker is already crossed over and only getting lower freq's correct?
3) Replace the back speakers with some decent 6.5" coax's like mid/high end JBL's/Focal

I know the stock HU doesnt push a lot of watts, but I like SQ/SPL, so the above should do nicely.

Nest step would be to put in a Kicker 11HS8.

From there I would have to decide if I wanted to go full blow amp's and DSP since the POS stock radio doesnt have any preouts (jerks).

Would like some opinions on my thoughts above on #1-3.
 

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Picking up my new 2016 Colorado today, as an AVID Audiophile, I will be making changes asap to the stock system. I went without the Bose due to all the mot so impressive reviews I have seem, the fact it has a center channel etc and seems to be generally harder to improve than a stock system.

My plan is to:

1) Install some JL C2-350x's in place of the stock tweeter location: C2-350x - Car Audio - Evolution® - C2 - Coaxial Systems - JL Audio
2) Replace the lower 6x9 location with a decent well made 6.5" driver. As I understand it, the front lower speaker is already crossed over and only getting lower freq's correct?
3) Replace the back speakers with some decent 6.5" coax's like mid/high end JBL's/Focal

I know the stock HU doesnt push a lot of watts, but I like SQ/SPL, so the above should do nicely.

Nest step would be to put in a Kicker 11HS8.

From there I would have to decide if I wanted to go full blow amp's and DSP since the POS stock radio doesnt have any preouts (jerks).

Would like some opinions on my thoughts above on #1-3.
I always recommend separate amps and processing when possible and if budget allows. However, I'm an Audiophile and I've never been able to just keep things simple. Also, the stock radio has a pretty decent flat signal and has all the USB inputs and bluetooth options you'd ever need.

Sent from my SM-G928T using Tapatalk
 

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Does anyone have any advise on making XM radio sound any better?? XM sounds like they are streaming at like 50 Kbps, vs iTunes quality of 256Kbps. I would pay more for better quality audio but that's not an option :/. Does anyone know if a DAC(digital to analog converter) would help xm sound smoother? Or is a DAC exists for your car/truck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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