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Jack points for Colorado question

31908 Views 22 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  lennep
I am a new Colorado owner, recently bought a 2016 Z71 crew with 2wd. I got a new hydraulic lift today and wanted to try it out on the Colorado. Being new to this truck and the owners manual being very vague, I lifted on the circular item show in the picture below behind the front driver side tire ( there is another in the same place on the passenger side). Not sure what I lifted on and am hoping I did not lift on something sensitive. Next time I will for sure only lift on the frame but I am worried I may have done something detrimental. Please go easy on me, I am new to this truck and to home auto repair. The picture below shows the circular device in question at the top center of the photo with the bolt head in the middle.

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I believe that is a cab mount. Probably didn't do any harm. But be sure and use a frame point next time.
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I'm pretty sure that's a body mount...

There is a little circular indent in both frame rails, below the driver and passenger doors. That spot is "designed" for a bottle jack but floor jacks generally have cups that are too big to fit there. But as long as you're not using the curved, non-flat or non-parallel parts of the frame rail, the entire frame rail beneath the cab is pretty much fair game.

I haven't heard of anyone lifting by the body mount but something tells me that's not a good idea. If you have a Rotary then the frame rails provide plenty of space for both "arms" of the lift.
This forum is awesome and a good source of help. Welcome here! you didn't do any harm, it's a body mount.
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GM wants us to use the pinch welds under the cab and cargo box. I like using the rear axle as a lifting point instead and the pinch weld for the front wheels when using a 3 ton or larger floor jack. To protect the pinch welds, I purchased a couple of black hockey puck like protectors that come with slots for the pinch welds. I also have something like the item below. Do a search on Amazon and you will come up with all kinds. I will not use a floor jack without one if the cup is large enough for a protector. The GM jack is unable to use a pinch weld protector. Many vehicles use the pinch weld for jacking up a vehicle. Long gone are the days of bumper jacks and railroad jacks for lifting vehicles.

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The last set of instruction I got with my Skid plates stated to use the frame to lift the truck.
You really can't go wrong using the frame or rear axle.
I've seen people use control arms and torsion bars and other suspension parts, talk about wrong.
GM wants us to use the pinch welds under the cab and cargo box. I like using the rear axle as a lifting point instead and the pinch weld for the front wheels when using a 3 ton or larger floor jack. To protect the pinch welds, I purchased a couple of black hockey puck like protectors that come with slots for the pinch welds. I also have something like the item below. Do a search on Amazon and you will come up with all kinds. I will not use a floor jack without one if the cup is large enough for a protector. The GM jack is unable to use a pinch weld protector. Many vehicles use the pinch weld for jacking up a vehicle. Long gone are the days of bumper jacks and railroad jacks for lifting vehicles.
Lifting on pinch welds is usually for unibody vehicles. If I have a frame, I would always lift there.
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GM wants us to use the pinch welds under the cab and cargo box. I like using the rear axle as a lifting point instead and the pinch weld for the front wheels when using a 3 ton or larger floor jack. To protect the pinch welds, I purchased a couple of black hockey puck like protectors that come with slots for the pinch welds. I also have something like the item below. Do a search on Amazon and you will come up with all kinds. I will not use a floor jack without one if the cup is large enough for a protector. The GM jack is unable to use a pinch weld protector. Many vehicles use the pinch weld for jacking up a vehicle. Long gone are the days of bumper jacks and railroad jacks for lifting vehicles.
NO. They want us to lift on the frame lift points as stated in the manual. Lifting on pinch welds is for unibody cars like Ridgelines haha.

But seriously, the cab pinch welds are not designed to lift the entire structure of a body on frame truck. You are however correct that we cannot lift from the bumper of this truck.

OP, you lifted from what I believe, as stated by others, is a cab mount. Should be fine, but I wouldn’t make a habit of it.
Makes me wonder where I went wrong.......
How does this guy have a rotary lift and I’m rolling on a creeper? Lmao
Makes me wonder where I went wrong.......
How does this guy have a rotary lift and I’m rolling on a creeper? Lmao
Hey, you got a creeper? I toss a old moving blanket on the ground and crawl.
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NO. They want us to lift on the frame lift points as stated in the manual. Lifting on pinch welds is for unibody cars like Ridgelines haha.

But seriously, the cab pinch welds are not designed to lift the entire structure of a body on frame truck. You are however correct that we cannot lift from the bumper of this truck.

OP, you lifted from what I believe, as stated by others, is a cab mount. Should be fine, but I wouldn’t make a habit of it.
Ooops!!! :roll: I stand corrected as I was thinking about my Equinox that I rotated tires on last month. That only has pinch welds for lifting points. Yes there is an indentation in the frame for the front tires on my Colorado. The cup on my 3 ton jack was too big for the indentation so I used my hard rubber hockey puck like insert in the cup. Cannot stress enough to chock a wheel to two and not the one you are removing of course. I have a couple of scrap boards in my tool box for chocking a wheel or for putting the jack on if the ground is soft.

In regards to a creeper, I gave up on a creeper years ago as they never move the direction you need to go half the time. Good old cardboard for laying on as it absorbs spilled oil. Speaking of pinch weld, that reminds me that I want to paint my silver pinch welds black yet or use undercoating to hide the ugly things.
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caseih,

Use under coating for the pinch welds.

On mine I used a bit of masking tape between the cab and bed to give it a nice straight edge, and after two years it's holding up well.
I am still struggling with this 2 years later after asking. I haven’t jacked it up yet cause I can do the oil change without jacking it. In the back I think I am going to be ok jacking it up at the differential and putting the stands under the axle tubes. I know that sparks controversy but not sure what else would work. (Using a 3 ton floor jack). The front is confusing me. I see where I am
Supposed to use a jack (the indented circle on the frame) but then I have no idea where the jack would go.


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Lower control arm?
Typo - sorry about that - I meant to type - I know the jack is supposed to go where the circle indentions are in the frame but then I don’t know where the jack STANDS are supposed to go.


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On the frame
Anyway on the frame? So as close as I can to the jack?

So if that is the case, does anyone recommend a specific type of stand to use? The ones I have are the harbor freight 3 ton stands Font


They aren’t wide enough to cradle the rails. What do most people do? They work fine on the Camry we have and will probably be fine to cradle the axle tubes, but the rail is so wide...is that an issue?


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As a new guy, I am no expert on the Colorado but I have been working on cars all my life. Yesterday, I crawled under this new truck and I thought I had died and gone to heaven. Jack points just about everywhere I looked. You can jack anywhere on the frame (which is everywhere) and those HF jack stands of yours will do just fine. Keep them on the frame. At the rear of the truck, I like the axle as that will lift up both tires.


Everyday I find more to like about this truck.
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