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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I had a CEL throwing a low performance - Fuel Pump error on my OBDII reader a few months back. Had it properly diagnosed while I was in for my annual inspection. Dealer quoted me $940 for a new in-tank fuel pump including all parts & labor. That's not happening at that price. I bought the genuine parts from a distributor for $280 taxes-in shipped and plan to do the swap myself this weekend by removing/tilting the bed & accessing with the tank still in place. Considering the poor performance, bad fuel mileage and the price of gas these days, it's time to get this fixed.

Has anyone used this method before, any recommendations on what to look out for when replacing, other than making sure everything goes back together the same way it came apart, don't get anything in the tank, and be prepared for back pressure/fuel coming out of the line to the engine when removing the lines from the top of the pump? Disconnect rear lights/camera wiring first. Remove tailgate necessary?

I've got the OBDII to reset the CEL when completed.

Thanks in advance!
 

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2017 Chevy Colorado Z71 Extended Cab 4WD Summit White
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Well the bed coming off or tilting out of the way would give easy access to the fuel tank without dropping it.
Would involve relaesing all the bed bolts. And disconnecting the wiring harness to teh Tail lights and the back up camera.
I can't think of any other wires. And the Fuel filler fron the bed side.

Remember to lift gently, that way you can make sure everything is disconnected before lifting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Unfortunately, 2 of the 3 bolts on the tank side won't come off. The welded ring nuts in the frame came loose and the bolts now just spin. It's too tight to get a strong enough grip on the nuts with vice grips, so I think I'm going to have to drop the tank.....

Any advice for someone without a hoist?

I do have a couple of ramps I can raise that side or the back with, and a 3 ton jack/stands to support the tank while lowering.

What all would need to be disconnected before doing so? I'm not going to do it right away as I'm going to burn off as much gas the in the tank as I can first (it's at about 1/4 tank now).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Unfortunately, 2 of the 3 bolts on the tank side won't come off. The welded ring nuts in the frame came loose and the bolts now just spin. It's too tight to get a strong enough grip on the nuts with vice grips, so I think I'm going to have to drop the tank.....

Any advice for someone without a hoist?

I do have a couple of ramps I can raise that side or the back with, and a 3 ton jack/stands to support the tank while lowering.

What all would need to be disconnected before doing so? I'm not going to do it right away as I'm going to burn off as much gas the in the tank as I can first (it's at about 1/4 tank now).
Took a closer look at everything. It looks like I can disconnect the fuel line and evap at the front of the tank before removal, the filler neck is solid metal (not hose like other older vehicles), but it's clamped to a hose at the top of the tank. Evap hose does the same.

I'm thinking if I run the tank nearly dry, drive the truck onto my ramps, disconnected the lines at the front, remove the hose clamps for the filler neck, then support the tank and remove the brackets, lower until I can disconnect the electrical at the fuel pump, it should then slide out from under the truck easily.

Please correct me if I'm missing anything!
 

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I did a few pump replacements on the S10 series and always pulled the bed. 4 bolts, unsnap the wire harness. Throw a couple old rugs between the bumper and the bed, then lift the bed and move it back a few feet and set it on the rear tires. Takes two people for the lifting but they don't have to be body builders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I did a few pump replacements on the S10 series and always pulled the bed. 4 bolts, unsnap the wire harness. Throw a couple old rugs between the bumper and the bed, then lift the bed and move it back a few feet and set it on the rear tires. Takes two people for the lifting but they don't have to be body builders.
Yep that was the plan until the ring nuts started spinning... No way I'm getting the bed off the truck without cutting the bolts off now...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sure does! Read somewhere afterward that the tack welding on those nuts were weak at best... Came apart often. Seems like a cheap out on GM's manufacturing...
 

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Yep that was the plan until the ring nuts started spinning... No way I'm getting the bed off the truck without cutting the bolts off now...
I have always dropped the tank, it seams easier to me.
Empty is good, that way it's very light. A floor jack is perfect to lower and raise it.
Just remove what you can and lower it enough to get the lines off.
AND be sure to get the truck high enough to be able to get the tank to slid out!
It is a pain it the A but doable. I say that having done lots and lots but not on this truck. ;)
Any you tube videos out there yet? I love those to give you a little heads up.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have always dropped the tank, it seams easier to me.
Empty is good, that way it's very light. A floor jack is perfect to lower and raise it.
Just remove what you can and lower it enough to get the lines off.
AND be sure to get the truck high enough to be able to get the tank to slid out!
It is a pain it the A but doable. I say that having done lots and lots but not on this truck. ;)
Any you tube videos out there yet? I love those to give you a little heads up.
None on this specific truck. Some on the 1st Gen Colorado/Canyon and some on the same era Silverado/Sierra.

I've got two ramps built from 2x10s that I use for oil changes. Those should get me another 7" of height to get the tank out...

I'll just drive the rear wheels up onto them.

Tire Wheel Car Sky Vehicle
 
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