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I definitely deserved that shot lmfao, but you do get the point right? The trucks handle, with or without the air dam...... wish someone sold the trimmed version, I like those, but as I said earlier I do not have the steady hands for that mod.
 

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What a POC that airdam is! I kept dragging it on low parking curbs and a few times on steep driveway transitions. Who would install that with top down hardware????
However, I immediately noticed a lack of rumble air turbulence, and it seemed so much more quiet. I did 10 runs to work at exactly 65 mph and recorded both trip mpg as well as instantaneous MPG at certain points and there was no difference with the air dam removed. Maybe over a 20 mile trip, it might give you a slight increase in mpg but I could not see it. I also put a string on the lower air ducts under the truck...they appear to draw air from the road and angle it up. I used my front camera to view it at 65 mph and you could clearly see the string take on a characteristic shape. With the airdam off, the string appeared to be showing more air flow...which makes sense. So lets think about this. Taking hot road air and blowing it up into your engine..... Not sure where the air goes. MAybe just to the lower exhaust header, then back out? But it appeared to show more flow...of hot air into the engine. Maybe this is why people are seeing hotter engine temps?????
I have access to a full blown aerospace flow meters with thermocouples and the whole deal.....but there is no freggin way I will put that air dam back on....even if its in the name of science.
some here have put it back on. i never had an issue with it hitting curbs or parking blocks
i dont believe there is a recent truck model made that does not have an air dam. some are harder to see than others.
 

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So here's my take on the matter.
The cost to a manufacturer is really what they worry about. They aren't about to spend the $30 or so it costs them to buy and install it for no reason.
If it were only an aesthetic choice they would make it an option and charge you $150 for it as an "aero package".
They are always under pressure to improve MPG in individual models as well as fleet numbers so even if it drops it by .1 or .2 MPG it helps the overall numbers. We might not care about that reduction but they do.
As an example, back in the late 70's they were looking for ways to reduce weight to the point at Chrysler was using magnesium steering wheel structure to help.
Another issue might be that under certain conditions at elevated speeds that 99% of drivers will never attain there is a problem with stability and if they are aware of it they will address it rather than risk bad publicity and law suits.
The fact that it is difficult to remove it might be deliberate.
 

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I have taken a couple of trips now with the air dam trimmed. It might be 1 mpg less. I drove it over extended sections as I believe they are tested. 70 mph on cruise. Since this is South Florida it is very flat. Hard to tell because same road but not necessarily same conditions. Tire air pressure can throw you off an mpg. I ran it at other speeds and did not feel a 'lift' or lighter steering.
 

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Nah, just ball breaking. I’ve no idea if it helps or not. I put it back on once to see how much the economy improved, and took it back off a couple hours later. I can’t stand it!
The trucks guys have trimmed them down on look great, I don’t have the talent for that compromise.
Ed
"I don’t have the talent for that compromise" If you look at mine close enough neither do I! Actually it is not hard. Took time to measure and tape it the way I wanted. Cutting with Dremel just takes patience. Sanding helps smooth out the slight drifting with the cut and the little bit of plastic melt you can get.
 

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"I don’t have the talent for that compromise" If you look at mine close enough neither do I! Actually it is not hard. Took time to measure and tape it the way I wanted. Cutting with Dremel just takes patience. Sanding helps smooth out the slight drifting with the cut and the little bit of plastic melt you can get.
Followed a similar procedure but used a jig saw (with blade suitable for plastic) and it worked very well.
 

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The other way to smooth out cuts in ABS plastic is to use a blowtorch to lightly kiss the edges you've just cut. The heat melts the little hairs on what's left of your cut line and will leave a nice glassed edge. Not enough to melt it or smoke it!!

As long as you measure/mark ahead of time and think through what you're doing, that should be a fairly painless job.
 

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Ok, I have a question for all you aerodynamics experts...and I'm serious and not at all being sarcastic...
I'm no racing or aerodynamic expert by any means but...

I've always wondered when I see those front wheel drive ricer cars running around with that big spoiler on the back, I question it's actual aerodynamic effectiveness.

I ask myself if that spoiler should really be at the front of the car since it's front wheel drive, thinking it will force the front down for better grip.
Any comments?
 

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Ok, I have a question for all you aerodynamics experts...and I'm serious and not at all being sarcastic...
I'm no racing or aerodynamic expert by any means but...

I've always wondered when I see those front wheel drive ricer cars running around with that big spoiler on the back, I question it's actual aerodynamic effectiveness.

I ask myself if that spoiler should really be at the front of the car since it's front wheel drive, thinking it will force the front down for better grip.
Any comments?
The rear of front wheel drive cars are very light, keeps the back planted. As for the ones on the road, purely show.
 

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The fact that it is difficult to remove it might be deliberate.
Maybe so but it does say in the manual to remove when off roading.
 

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Ok, I have a question for all you aerodynamics experts...and I'm serious and not at all being sarcastic...
I'm no racing or aerodynamic expert by any means but...

I've always wondered when I see those front wheel drive ricer cars running around with that big spoiler on the back, I question it's actual aerodynamic effectiveness.

I ask myself if that spoiler should really be at the front of the car since it's front wheel drive, thinking it will force the front down for better grip.
Any comments?
A "front spoiler" would be a splitter, and it is located at the bottom edge of the front bumper (similar to the air dam on the trucks). But a splitter is kind of useless unless it is accompanied by a rear diffuser, which helps direct the air from under the car so that there is no lift at the rear. These can be used in conjunction with a rear spoiler (see any race car).

As for the large wings on the back of the "front wheel drive river cars" that you mentioned, as @White016 said, they are just going for a certain look most likely, but a properly tuned spoiler will add downforce to keep the wheels planted even on slower turns.
 

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Cut mine as seen in another post. Hard to tell if MPG really dropped because we're on the winter fuel grades. Looks a lot better, haven't noticed any stability or noise issues on the highway. View attachment 384827
Did you cut it on the truck, that is what it looks like. A Dremel?
 

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Did you cut it on the truck, that is what it looks like. A Dremel?
Yes I left it on the truck, carefully used a dremel with a reinforced cutoff wheel specifically for plastic. As someone else suggested, I taped off the edge that I wanted to cut. Used very fine sandpaper to smooth the Edge after the cut and after I picked what plastic bits off that I could. I'm very happy with the way it turned out.
 

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well I have all the Dremel stuff, but I am thinking a jizsaw with fine plastic blade would be quicker. Just not sure my old weak reflexes can follow a straight line. Well I said I would wait a little while before I started cutting and drilling on a 20 day old truck, BUT...….the air dam either has to go or get cut.
 

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well I have all the Dremel stuff, but I am thinking a jizsaw with fine plastic blade would be quicker. Just not sure my old weak reflexes can follow a straight line. Well I said I would wait a little while before I started cutting and drilling on a 20 day old truck, BUT...….the air dam either has to go or get cut.
I used a Dremel and it turned out fine, BUT it was a little harder than I anticipated because the Dremel was melting the plastic which made it harder to follow a straight line. Keeping rpms as low as possible would probably help (if you have a variable speed model). A jigsaw might have less of an issue with this, but I cant really say. Others have used shears and reported that that approach works pretty well.

In the end, it’s a $50 part if you feel the need to replace or try a retrim. Otherwise, you just take it off if you screw up. I personally found that reassuring when I undertook trimming it. My wife also found it reassuring as she was a bit concerned initially when she found out I was cutting parts of my truck off 😂
 

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well I have all the Dremel stuff, but I am thinking a jizsaw with fine plastic blade would be quicker. Just not sure my old weak reflexes can follow a straight line. Well I said I would wait a little while before I started cutting and drilling on a 20 day old truck, BUT...….the air dam either has to go or get cut.
Dremel works fine. I started with a saw but switched. Take your time. If you detect some melting then just pause. You'll also get some plastic shaving to wrap around the shank. I lightly sanded. Some people used a torch or flame stick to slightly melt the trimmed area to get rid of shavings. The whole key is to put effort into the prep. I put wide blue painters tape across the dam in the approximate location I wanted to cut and used a guide to draw the line. (Similar to a drafting compass tool except mine was a stick, a pencil, and some tape... I was born in N Florida so I can be creative). Finally get your neighbor to do the actual cut so that you have someone to blame. Good Luck!
 

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