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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings everybody
I am the original owner of a 2017 LT 4 wheel drive Colorado that I love -while it was under warranty there was a rushing sound of water underneath the firewall and they flushed out the system- and now it's sometime later and out of warranty and a check engine light is coming on, the codes run say thermostat and gasket but I don't really think that's even possible it only has over 60,000 miles on it, the cooling fan will keep running at times while the engine is running and not hot and at times when I shut the vehicle off,and the temperature gauge sometimes stays at 160. It is so inconsistent that I can't diagnose it properly- I purchased a thermostat and a sensor just in case and then all of a sudden the problem stopped. A relay would not cause the temperature gauge to stay low. I'm scratching my head confused- does anybody have similar problems? I was just prepared to do the whole job and I took it for a ride and there are no issues right now and I'm really confused And I don't want to have to take apart everything that has to be taken apart in order to change the thermostat and a sensor because that is one big job and if I'm wrong it's going to be taken apart for no reason.
 

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Greetings everybody
I am the original owner of a 2017 LT 4 wheel drive Colorado that I love -while it was under warranty there was a rushing sound of water underneath the firewall and they flushed out the system- and now it's sometime later and out of warranty and a check engine light is coming on, the codes run say thermostat and gasket but I don't really think that's even possible it only has over 60,000 miles on it, the cooling fan will keep running at times while the engine is running and not hot and at times when I shut the vehicle off,and the temperature gauge sometimes stays at 160. It is so inconsistent that I can't diagnose it properly- I purchased a thermostat and a sensor just in case and then all of a sudden the problem stopped. A relay would not cause the temperature gauge to stay low. I'm scratching my head confused- does anybody have similar problems? I was just prepared to do the whole job and I took it for a ride and there are no issues right now and I'm really confused And I don't want to have to take apart everything that has to be taken apart in order to change the thermostat and a sensor because that is one big job and if I'm wrong it's going to be taken apart for no reason.
Check coolant level first, 1 inch over the full line is perfect.
Man there have been lots of this lately. The "normal" fix for the "too cold" code is a new thermostat.
What guys have been finding is it seems it could be some kind of software glitch, they have removed the battery cable and the problem disappears.
If you have that coolant sound inside fill your coolant bottle up about an inch over the "full" line to fix that.
I would get an infrared thermometer and check to see exactly how warm the coolant is getting to be sure it really is warming up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When I went to the dealership Auto parts department they said that they were selling out a lot of the sensors so I figured I would try that and then I went over to the AutoZone when the check engine light came on and they were great they ran the codes and it was a thermostat and the gasket so I got the housing for that and the gasket. You also make a lot of sense as well thank you so much for your reply- this is going to be a big job. I'll report back. 🙏
 

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Yeah what he said. I never had dash lights. Symptoms
160 temp stuck
Fan wouldn’t shut off always on
Heater and air conditioning not cooling heating

I unplugged the battery. All went away
I did buy the coolant temp sensor but didn’t end up needing to change it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah what he said. I never had dash lights. Symptoms
160 temp stuck
Fan wouldn’t shut off always on
Heater and air conditioning not cooling heating

I unplugged the battery. All went away
I did buy the coolant temp sensor but didn’t end up needing to change it.
Battery was unplugged. Still having problems after. I'll have to take it to the next step. I'll report back. Thank you
 

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Battery was unplugged. Still having problems after. I'll have to take it to the next step. I'll report back. Thank you
please let us know what you find. Do you have a infrared thermometer you can test with? If the truck is not getting up to 190 I would do the t-stat for sure. (after being sure it's full of coolant with no leaks)
As for the sensor, it seems odd it could fail at a low temp and the PCM couldn't figure that out and set a code.
 
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Greetings everybody
I am the original owner of a 2017 LT 4 wheel drive Colorado that I love -while it was under warranty there was a rushing sound of water underneath the firewall and they flushed out the system- and now it's sometime later and out of warranty and a check engine light is coming on, the codes run say thermostat and gasket but I don't really think that's even possible it only has over 60,000 miles on it, the cooling fan will keep running at times while the engine is running and not hot and at times when I shut the vehicle off,and the temperature gauge sometimes stays at 160. It is so inconsistent that I can't diagnose it properly- I purchased a thermostat and a sensor just in case and then all of a sudden the problem stopped. A relay would not cause the temperature gauge to stay low. I'm scratching my head confused- does anybody have similar problems? I was just prepared to do the whole job and I took it for a ride and there are no issues right now and I'm really confused And I don't want to have to take apart everything that has to be taken apart in order to change the thermostat and a sensor because that is one big job and if I'm wrong it's going to be taken apart for no reason.
You have air in your coolant system. You are hearing bubbles move through the heater core. Air in the coolant system can cause a range of issues; from just a little noise to engine overheating. The inconsistency is coming from the fact that the air is moving through different parts of the system. Burping the coolant system should fix it but it's a little tough because the colorado doesn't have a radiator cap. Remove the cap off the reservoir after the engine has been off for a while, add coolant to 1/3 over the fill line in the reservoir. Jack the front end of the truck up a little bit to give a slight incline in front. Start the engine and turn the thermostat knob to full hot but turn the blower off and let the engine run for 30 min or so. This should help cycle the bubbles through to the reservoir where they can vent. after running the engine for a little while turn off the engine and place the cap loosely back on top of the reservoir. Come back after the engine is cool and top off the coolant to the fill line if necessary and close the reservoir after. I had this same problem with my 2017 colorado. There was a known service bulletin put out about the 2017 years reservoirs. Most times the dealership would swap the reservoir.

The method above worked really well for me but it took two tries to get all of the air out. I would give it a shot and you don't necessarily have to jack up the front of the truck but it does seem to help get more air out.
 

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Check coolant level first, 1 inch over the full line is perfect.
Man there have been lots of this lately. The "normal" fix for the "too cold" code is a new thermostat.
What guys have been finding is it seems it could be some kind of software glitch, they have removed the battery cable and the problem disappears.
If you have that coolant sound inside fill your coolant bottle up about an inch over the "full" line to fix that.
I would get an infrared thermometer and check to see exactly how warm the coolant is getting to be sure it really is warming up.
I had this same problem like a month ago. What I found in my research was that there was some sort of service bulletin for the 2017's about them accumulating air in their coolant system. The solution for this is to burp the system but it's difficult with the 2017s due to some problem with their reservoir so the dealerships replaced them pretty frequently. I would bet he has got air stuck in the coolant system somewhere and that purging it would fix it.
 

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I had this same problem like a month ago. What I found in my research was that there was some sort of service bulletin for the 2017's about them accumulating air in their coolant system. The solution for this is to burp the system but it's difficult with the 2017s due to some problem with their reservoir so the dealerships replaced them pretty frequently. I would bet he has got air stuck in the coolant system somewhere and that purging it would fix it.
That TSB is for noise, not heating/cooling. But yes, coolant level should always be checked with this type of problem.
What problem did you have exactly? Just noise in the heater core or??
 

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That TSB is for noise, not heating/cooling. But yes, coolant level should always be checked with this type of problem.
What problem did you have exactly? Just noise in the heater core or??
The TSB is for the noise but the cause is air in the coolant system, more specifically you are hearing air moving through the heater core. While I wasn’t having overheating issues I was hearing the noise associated with this TSB. The coolant level can look ok but actually be low if there is air trapped In the system somewhere. I was able to purge the air from my system and that fixed the problem. The tank actually indicated proper coolant levels before purging the system but adding coolant over the line and then Purging the system caused a drop in the coolant level to the fill line once the air was purged. I just don’t believe the amount in the reservoir is a good indication of the coolant level if you’re hearing this noise. Excess air in the coolant system can cause the engine to become unusually hot and or overheat.
 

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I had this same problem like a month ago. What I found in my research was that there was some sort of service bulletin for the 2017's about them accumulating air in their coolant system. The solution for this is to burp the system but it's difficult with the 2017s due to some problem with their reservoir so the dealerships replaced them pretty frequently. I would bet he has got air stuck in the coolant system somewhere and that purging it would fix it.
The cooling system is self-bleeding and there isn't a problem with air accumulating in the system or air being difficult to purge. GM slightly redesigned the surge tank to try and address the ingestion of air from a marginal coolant level inside the surge tank. The easy fix is to just add coolant so it's roughly 1/2" to 1" above the arrow/seam on the surge tank. The air will sort itself out and get rid of the "waterfall" sound that was part of the complaint. The issue was never lack of heat, overheating, overcooling, etc, just noise after initial startup due to the initial startup pulling in some air. The bulletin has techs run the engine with the vehicle on an incline to speed up the purging of air so they can get it back to the customer faster, but it's not necessary.
 

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Yes, I think the main concern here about the temp gauge staying at 160 (too cold and not heating up) and getting a code for the system not warming up. One should always look for leaks and check level first (like I posted before)
Anyway, My goto would be the thermostat (sticking open) . We have seen this on the forum a lot lately with nothing be fixed or even diagnosed.
I wish someone with this problem would get a infrared thermometer and see if the truck is really warming up or not. This way we could at least know if it's the tstat or not. I think it would help the people with this problem.
I have one similar to this and it works great.
 
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I had the rushing water/gurglinng 2 weeks ago, water was real low, over filled it and drove 450 miles, noise still there , so I pulled up on a steep hill in the pasture and turned the heater on and let it run a while, noise is all gone now

I figured if I was taking to dealer for oil change they would check all fluid level's, guess they do not do that anymore as I checked the wife GC and it and washer fluid were almost empty too.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You have air in your coolant system. You are hearing bubbles move through the heater core. Air in the coolant system can cause a range of issues; from just a little noise to engine overheating. The inconsistency is coming from the fact that the air is moving through different parts of the system. Burping the coolant system should fix it but it's a little tough because the colorado doesn't have a radiator cap. Remove the cap off the reservoir after the engine has been off for a while, add coolant to 1/3 over the fill line in the reservoir. Jack the front end of the truck up a little bit to give a slight incline in front. Start the engine and turn the thermostat knob to full hot but turn the blower off and let the engine run for 30 min or so. This should help cycle the bubbles through to the reservoir where they can vent. after running the engine for a little while turn off the engine and place the cap loosely back on top of the reservoir. Come back after the engine is cool and top off the coolant to the fill line if necessary and close the reservoir after. I had this same problem with my 2017 colorado. There was a known service bulletin put out about the 2017 years reservoirs. Most times the dealership would swap the reservoir.

The method above worked really well for me but it took two tries to get all of the air out. I would give it a shot and you don't necessarily have to jack up the front of the truck but it does seem to help get more air out.
I Will try this. I will also look for that bulletin. Thank you so much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I had the rushing water/gurglinng 2 weeks ago, water was real low, over filled it and drove 450 miles, noise still there , so I pulled up on a steep hill in the pasture and turned the heater on and let it run a while, noise is all gone now

I figured if I was taking to dealer for oil change they would check all fluid level's, guess they do not do that anymore as I checked the wife GC and it and washer fluid were almost empty too.
Glad it worked out. I will follow up Thank you.
 

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My level is fine and I’ve had the canister replaced. Truck gurgles once in a while. Less in the winter I think. Have the dealer give you the new canister next oil change…because why not get a new one for free. Won’t solve the issue so much. You get a new one out of it and assuming new coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes, I think the main concern here about the temp gauge staying at 160 (too cold and not heating up) and getting a code for the system not warming up. One should always look for leaks and check level first (like I posted before)
Anyway, My goto would be the thermostat (sticking open) . We have seen this on the forum a lot lately with nothing be fixed or even diagnosed.
I wish someone with this problem would get a infrared thermometer and see if the truck is really warming up or not. This way we could at least know if it's the tstat or not. I think it would help the people with this problem.
I have one similar to this and it works great.
I like that idea about thermometer and it was suggested as well when I was trying to diagnose so it makes sense and I'll try and get one and follow up thank you. A friend of mine that does electrical engineering thinks it's the foreign electrical relays/system not helping matters because of it being so inconsistent it could be electrical. It could also be the thermostat acting up and it can also be water moving around in the system. We did do basic diagnostics and unplug the cooling fan and drove it and the temperature gauge went back up again but didn't go over 190. The fan turned on one time and then went down to 160 because the fan was keeping the engine cool. I have the thermostat and gasket and sensor on standby it is such a big job with all of those other top and gaskets and parts that will be needed and I really don't want to take the engine apart just for this so I'm hoping that maybe it is just air that has to get out of the system and I'll try that first. I will follow up with all these ideas and I'm thankful for everyone's suggestions and help.
 

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I like that idea about thermometer and it was suggested as well when I was trying to diagnose so it makes sense and I'll try and get one and follow up thank you. A friend of mine that does electrical engineering thinks it's the foreign electrical relays/system not helping matters because of it being so inconsistent it could be electrical. It could also be the thermostat acting up and it can also be water moving around in the system. We did do basic diagnostics and unplug the cooling fan and drove it and the temperature gauge went back up again but didn't go over 190. The fan turned on one time and then went down to 160 because the fan was keeping the engine cool. I have the thermostat and gasket and sensor on standby it is such a big job with all of those other top and gaskets and parts that will be needed and I really don't want to take the engine apart just for this so I'm hoping that maybe it is just air that has to get out of the system and I'll try that first. I will follow up with all these ideas and I'm thankful for everyone's suggestions and help.
it doesn't matter what the fan is doing or how cold it is outside for that matter, it should run at about 190 minimum. I bet you have a stuck open t-stat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I just called the dealership because I don't have my paperwork from when the dealership worked on the truck under warranty for the rushing sound underneath the firewall and they did confirm that the tank was replaced back then and that was in 2019. Still diagnosing I will report back
 
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