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There are a few screws along the bottom of the glove box to remove, and when you open the glove box you push in the sides of the glove box to get the stop-tabs past the stops. It'll make sense once you start in on it.
 

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AdamJP said:
There are a few screws along the bottom of the glove box to remove, and when you open the glove box you push in the sides of the glove box to get the stop-tabs past the stops. It'll make sense once you start in on it.
Thx!
 

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I called my dealer to get a price on the harness and resistor. It was way more than GM parts direct.

I told him that I could get it much cheaper there. He said that it must not be Gm parts. :lol: :lol:
 

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vettegofast said:
I called my dealer to get a price on the harness and resistor. It was way more than GM parts direct.

I told him that I could get it much cheaper there. He said that it must not be Gm parts. :lol: :lol:
I called mine sometime ago and he told me $80 for the harness. What are you :x? Ordered the connector from GM direct, and 'bout 2wks ago had my usual repair spot do the work for me and , WOOOOOOOO!! I have 1-3 again!
 

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I think the connections on the plug don't fit tight enough. I was going to make shims of some kind for a solid fit, but they were already wrecked from the melting.
 

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I have found the SOLUTION to this problem and it costs $0 dollars. The problem is the connector of the plug NOT the resistor. The resistors even though they look like hell are NOT burnt out. Take a thumb-tack or similar tool and stick it in the holes on other side of connector prong and bend them so they will fit tighter around the resistors 4 prongs. Put resistor back in and you are DONE! Fan will work on all 4 blower speeds.

I first did this with NEW resistor and it worked. I then thought to myself, hey I wonder if my OLD resistor will work too? I put it in and it worked as well! The old one was all mutilated to hell too, I couldn't believe it.


 

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I'm not saying you're wrong here, but if the resistor is bad (mine was) this won't help, you'll need a resistor. Glad you got yours fixed. You might also look into making sure the ground under the hood is good as well while you're at it.
 

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i've had problems with the resistor for nearly a year now. i pulled the clip bent the afffected pin slightly and have had no issues since. technically the resistor doesn't even need to be removed.

the resistor is not the problem.
 

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AdamJP said:
I'm not saying you're wrong here, but if the resistor is bad (mine was) this won't help, you'll need a resistor. Glad you got yours fixed. You might also look into making sure the ground under the hood is good as well while you're at it.
My old mutilated resistor was in equal to or WORSE than any resistors I seen on here. I was pretty surprised to see it work. Try it out, I would be surprised to hear your extremely bad resistor dont work with this method. I fixed the ground a few months back, I still question whether that needed to be done because it had no effect on fixing the blower speed problem for my truck.

Like xkmacx86 said, this method you dont even need to remove the resistor, just pull of the plug bend the prongs tighter and plug it back in.
 

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Okay I have lost all settings on my blower. Nothing wrks nothing happens. It did this about 2 weeks ago and the next day it worked again and then it happened again and it has stayed the same. I checked the resistor and it didn't look burn't or at least what I would have espected it to look like. Is there anything else I should check??
 

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okay I just went to check my pins and I looked at everything...nothing is burnt or messed up in any way...I bent all the pins slightly forward for better contact and I still have nothing...I still havent checked the ground under the hood (I'm trying to do all this in spare moments at work) I really don't kno exactly where the ground is...if anyone could tell me that would be great. Also if I check the ground and I still have nothing what else could it be???
 

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First, and it's obvious, but I've forgotten it before, did you check the fuse? Second, did you check the ground under the hood? I know some folks think the resistor never actually goes bad and the ground is always good, but that's not always the case. If your fan doesn't work on any speed, chances are the ground is bad, not the resistor. I searched really quick and found this post... I'm not sure what page it was on, but it's in there. Sorry I don't have time right now to help more, but at least give these a shot and see what it is (and don't forget the fuse!)

rkinney said:
hrkart66 said:
Hello every one. Im new here but I do have some tips. I am the fleet manager for a Miller dist.

TRY THIS BEFOR BUYING MORE DELPHI [email protected]

1. If you havent already, replace the connector to the blower motor resistor.
2. If the blower has stopped working all together.
A. Pull the connector out of the blower motor and check the orange wire for continuity to ground with the a/c control set to any fan speed.
B. If there is no ground present go under the hood and looking over the passenger fender between the air box and the inner fender you will see a small
black box with at least 4 wires coming out of it and it will be bolted to the fender with a 10mm bolt. This a ground distribution point and it SUCKS. It
will be about an 1.5 inchs by .5 in thick. I have found the first time that scuffing the area around where the bolt goes to bare metal will work but now
I just cut them all as close to the dist. block as possable and use 2 ring terminals big enough for 2 wires and bolt it back on.


Also they dont tell you this but the burnt resistor connector is caused by the intermittant grounding issue and we also have found that the trucks that we did this to before doing the brake switch recall havent had that problem. If you notice that with the wires cut from the dist. block or if you take the top part of it off and break the connections and turn on the key you will get all sorts of messages from the inst. cluster like brake and abs fault.
Thank you for chiming in hrkart66! I am unsure of the exact location. Is this the piece you are talking about? It is hard to take a picture right now cause it is dark and freaking cold out side :lol:. So just take it off and clean/scuff off the paint around the hole and bolt it back up?




Thanks!
Rob
And this is the ground point under the hood. The one you want is on the passenger side, but there is one on both sides, and checking both can't hurt (a good ground is always preferred). I didn't cut mine out, just took the bolt out and cleaned it up really good (both the bolt and the hole) and then scuffed up the paint where the bolt touches the fender. I haven't had a problem with the fan since, well, once, but it was a battery problem, not the fan.

Hope this helps.

-Adam
 

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Thanks for the info I hope this solves it and I should check the fuse...guess I overlooked that thinking it had to be somehting else. I will play with it in the next little bit and give an update.
 

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well turns out it was the ground...all fuses were good I took a wire brush to the bolt and the paint and i worked fine then I killed my truck to get gas and wen i started bak up it was gone again :evil: so guess i need a bettr connectipn but at least i kno what the problem is now....Thanks for the help!!
 

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Open up the little block box at the ground connection. Many times the bad connection is inside the black box and not on the tab that goes to the fender. If you find it burned there, remove that wire from the box and install a ring terminal on it. Put that ring terminal under the same bolt that mounts the little black box.

Also this could be an intermittent relay. Swap the fan relay with another of the same part number and see if the problem moves.
 
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