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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
All,

Thought I'd do How-To on how I installed my SP9100 on a PowerTray blank with some Blue Sea Systems components. Pretty common combination from perusing the Tacoma forums. I crowd sourced a lot from this forum as far as where to go through the firewall and mount the control head. Pretty happy with how it turned out. My decision to mount the SP9100 vertically caused me to have to trim a small piece of metal with aviation snips, but otherwise it's 100% bolt on.

Obligatory not affiliated with Switch Pros, Power Tray, or Blue Sea Systems, I bought all of this myself, none of it was provided to me, etc...


Time required: 6-12hrs (Layout, punch, drill, cut, strip, label, crimp, harness routing)
Complexity: 7/10 (Multi vendor, electrical wiring, drilling/modification of components, drilling/modification of truck, trim removal)

Components:
PowerTray Blank for Colorado
Switch Pros SP9100
Blue Sea Systems 100 Amp Mini BusBar
Blue Sea Systems 8 Circuit Terminal Block 30A
Blue Sea Systems 6 circuit w/ Cover & Neg Fuse Block


Tools used:
My trusty ATD Saber Under Hood light
HHIP Transfer Punches
Drill America Cobalt Drill Bits (I know, cobalt is overkill for aluminum but I use cobalt to drill all metal)
Tap Magic Cutting Oil (Or whatever you have sitting around, it's aluminum not hardened steel)
Deburring Tool
1/4" drive sockets for hard to reach spots
Ratcheting wrenches. Mostly metric if memory serves me.
TICONN 500Pcs Marine Adhesive Heat Shrink Wire Connectors
EPAuto Tap-A-Fuse
Titan Ratcheting Heat Shrink Crimper Tool
HYCLAT 10 Ton Hydraulic Crimper
4AWG Ancor Marine Grade Primary Wire
SELTERM 4 AWG 3/8" Stud (10 pcs.)
1/2" PET Braided Sleeving
1/2" Split Loom
IRWIN VISE-GRIP Diagonal Cutters These are really good German NWS pliers that Irwin rebrands. More info here. Pics here
Klein Tools 8-22AWG Wire Strippers. I've since upgraded to these and haven't looked back. So. Much. Better.
Silicone paste dielectric grease
Blue loctite
Dualeco Trim Removal Set
DYMO Rhino 4200 Label Maker for heat shrink tubes
Chinese Knockoff Aonomi 1/4" heatshrink tubes. I've used 10 rolls of Aonomi labels and they work at least as well as OEM Dymo IMO.
Gloves
Files
Slipjaw pliers
Utility Knife w/ new blade (For cutting your trucks harness self healing boot)
Black and Red Heatshrink (Optional)

If mounting vertically (Like directions instruct and myself):
Dremel 4000 w/ coarse sanding drums
3" U bolt washer plates. I have no idea where to get these without the U bolts, but I don't remember buying them with U bolts ? Found them in my pile of misc hardware, so might have been a donation from a friend who needed just the U bolts ? Sorry.



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Arrangement and design took quite awhile, but I found a layout that can support either vertical or horizontal mounting (Disclaimer: horizontal mounting may void your warranty, which is why I changed to vertical later on in the planning/installing cycle)
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With the layout "test" fitted for clearance, I used transfer punches to dimple the tray where I would drill out exacting holes for 10-24 machine screws. I used exacting instead of clearance for some added snugness. SS screws easily threaded the aluminum plate when I installed.
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As previously stated after reading the install directions stating horizontal can pool water and void a warranty and talking to my tacoma buddy who has one horizontally mounted, I decided to go vertical if I could. The holes actually workout to be in the same location if I trimmed part of the power tray.

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Those brackets are just 3" U bolt "washers" from Lowes. I also used them for the interior install. MTF.

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Following sleeping on the new arrangement, I went to work.
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I trimmed the PowerTray using a dremel and then filed/deburred the edge.
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Oil and a cobalt bit EASILY went through the aluminum.

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To be continued...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Using 10-24x.75" SS bolts, washers, and nuts, I mounted all of the Blue Sea System components:
Blue Sea Systems 2304 5 Gang Common 100A Mini Busbar
Blue Sea Systems Terminal Blocks 20A - 65A
Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover

For paranoia reasons, I added blue thread locker, which with the engine bay heat may end up being worthless, but oh well. I didn't secure the SP9100 since I would be connecting it before putting nuts on to ensure minimal height.


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The SP9100 comes with some fairly large connector harnesses, so I cleaned that up before connecting it to the terminal block. Heat shrink paired up the switches, marine adhesive ring connectors, and heat shrink labeled them. Switches 1-4 are limited to 20A, but 5-8 are 35A.

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Under the hood, I removed the engine cover to access the main harness silicone boot through the firewall, and made a small slit to route the control head cable into the cab and wrapped it in split loom. The boot is next to the brake booster (I believe; large black drum under the master brake cylinder).
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Here's a view of the harness and new cable from between the gas and brake pedals.

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I used the included Add A Fuse in F17 for 12v ignition sense. There's a little drainage hole in each corner that worked well for snaking a wire up without having to drill into the fuse box or break a seal.

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To test out a configuration, I used an expedient Scotchlock to tap the 12v ignition sense wire with the Lights/Trigger2 12v sense cable. I've already been counseled, and fully realize, how weak scotchlocks are. I justified its usage in this situation since no energy is being transferred and it is more than likely temporary. If it's permanent, or causes any problems, I'll cut them both and marine adhesive butt slice them together. This configuration allows me control over the LED brightness of the control head 100% of the time and could possibly be used as a trigger to auto-enable my planned 600W inverter. We'll see.

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I added braiding to the included SP9100 positive battery cable:
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I coated the harnesses exterior with dielectric grease (not the inside, or anywhere where they could even remotely touch the terminals). Powertray is installed by loosening 2, 10mm bolts. Once in place I was able to make 4AWG cables for the Blue Sea Systems fuse block and Ground to bus bar+ bus bar to blue sea systems fuse block. You can see the small piece of plastic and sheet metal I had to trim in the bottom right of the picture.

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From L to R: Empty spot for winch positive (superstitious; if I have my winch connected, I'll definitely need it), Battery Tender lead, Main Battery Bus Cable, SP9100, Blue Sea Systems Fuseblock
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
For the interior control head mount I selected the useless "chapstick" cubby. To access it I had to remove 2 panels and 2 plugs (heated seats). One is the panel my right leg rests against when driving and the other is the trim that holds the heated seat buttons. Both are attached with metal press in/pull out clips. It felt like I was going to break something and then it gave. The previously routed control cable through the firewall was snaked up the panel and into the main "cubby"

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If you're connector challenged like I am, to remove the heated seats you press the tab towards the wires my curved pick is touching in this pic:
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I took revenge against the uselessness of the cubby by drilling holes in it and filing out the center hole to fit the harness:
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Once again, 3" U bolt washers were the MVP
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And success. The white squares are for placing the included 100 stickers

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Which, like a poser, I totally did for what I plan to install.

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Mistakenly reserved too many posts. Mods, feel free to delete.
 

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Super clean install and great write up! Thanks for sharing.

To make you feel even better, I thought my setup turned out pretty clean with a DIY power plate, but yours is way nicer. I have 2-pin weather pack connectors for each accessory that I just tuck below the plate where I can. I like your distribution block better though. Might switch that up for easier/cleaner access.

I ran my switches to the sunglass holder area.


Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Super clean install and great write up! Thanks for sharing.

To make you feel even better, I thought my setup turned out pretty clean with a DIY power plate, but yours is way nicer. I have 2-pin weather pack connectors for each accessory that I just tuck below the plate where I can. I like your distribution block better though. Might switch that up for easier/cleaner access.

I ran my switches to the sunglass holder area.


Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Your setup is super clean for being all DIY. I cheated and bought the plate from PowerTray and did my best to knockoff their Toyota setups haha.

I love those rocker switches. I also somewhat miss the feel of throwing them on my '05 LJ, but that was 2 vehicles ago. Rockers also have FAR more options for switch covers than SwitchPros... Those 100 included stickers are basically what you get and no customs (min order of 1k so... pass. I'm not Bruce Wayne ordering batman masks). Where did you find the glasses replacement panel ? I looked for awhile, since that spot is a prime waste of space as well.

I also had to cut this red outlined part off in mine, and you didnt.

405349
 

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Your setup is super clean for being all DIY. I cheated and bought the plate from PowerTray and did my best to knockoff their Toyota setups haha.

I love those rocker switches. I also somewhat miss the feel of throwing them on my '05 LJ, but that was 2 vehicles ago. Rockers also have FAR more options for switch covers than SwitchPros... Those 100 included stickers are basically what you get and no customs (min order of 1k so... pass. I'm not Bruce Wayne ordering batman masks). Where did you find the glasses replacement panel ? I looked for awhile, since that spot is a prime waste of space as well.

I also had to cut this red outlined part off in mine, and you didnt.

View attachment 405349
Thanks. I got the switch insert from ZR2PNW on Instagram. Highly recommended. 3D printed and a perfect fit. Had to sand and paint it, but that was easy enough. He's also making a bracket to mount a compressor and DC-DC charger in front of the air intake, which looks super factory clean.

I probably won't replace the plate unless it rusts (painted steel), but if I do, the PowerTray is clearly the way to go.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
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Thanks. I got the switch insert from ZR2PNW on Instagram. Highly recommended. 3D printed and a perfect fit. Had to sand and paint it, but that was easy enough. He's also making a bracket to mount a compressor and DC-DC charger in front of the air intake, which looks super factory clean.

I probably won't replace the plate unless it rusts (painted steel), but if I do, the PowerTray is clearly the way to go.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
NanserbE on here if anyone is looking for him. He responds to direct communication about this switch plate.
 

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2019 ZR2, Duramax, Cajun Red, Tucson, AZ
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Very clean install! Looks great. I also went with the Sp 9100. I went with the Knu Konseptz battery terminals. I like the expand-ability.
Thanks for the write up
Pardon my dust!
Automotive tire Light Motor vehicle Tread Hood
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Trunk Bumper
Automotive fuel system Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Very clean install! Looks great. I also went with the Sp 9100. I went with the Knu Konseptz battery terminals. I like the expand-ability.
Thanks for the write up
Pardon my dust!
View attachment 405428 View attachment 405429 View attachment 405430
I've never seen or heard of these before. If I didn't already have the ability and materials to make my own battery cables, I would have gone this route for sure. That's super neat.

As for the dust... For 2 years I've been cleaning W. Texas dust out of my truck. haha.
 

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2021 Colorado ZR2 Bison CCSB 3.6L
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Your setup is super clean for being all DIY. I cheated and bought the plate from PowerTray and did my best to knockoff their Toyota setups haha.

I love those rocker switches. I also somewhat miss the feel of throwing them on my '05 LJ, but that was 2 vehicles ago. Rockers also have FAR more options for switch covers than SwitchPros... Those 100 included stickers are basically what you get and no customs (min order of 1k so... pass. I'm not Bruce Wayne ordering batman masks). Where did you find the glasses replacement panel ? I looked for awhile, since that spot is a prime waste of space as well.

I also had to cut this red outlined part off in mine, and you didnt.

View attachment 405349
Thank you for this, I'm more or less stealing your build wholesale. Were you to do this again, with the goal of not cutting the PowerTray or vehicle as pictured in quoted post, what would you change? Just move the SwitchPro forward a bit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you for this, I'm more or less stealing your build wholesale. Were you to do this again, with the goal of not cutting the PowerTray or vehicle as pictured in quoted post, what would you change? Just move the SwitchPro forward a bit?
I would mount it on its back if that were the case, which was my original idea but that can void the warranty due to water pooling. I don't see this as being a big issue, but found a way to vertically mount it anyway. The holes line up the same way for mounting it on its back, just in case I wanted to change to that instead. I'm pretty sure there's room for the harness to clear the hood but never tried it. All the way at the top, pictures #2-4 show the original layout on the back and side profiles for harness clearance. It should work.
 

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@ARCowboy

Hello, wiring newb here. Are the busbar and fuse block required for the switchpros 9100 operation? Or are you using that for accessories that are not controlled by the switchpros? Also, are you worried that the terminal connections could get crossed more easily that connecting to the switchpros wiring harness directly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
@ARCowboy

Hello, wiring newb here. Are the busbar and fuse block required for the switchpros 9100 operation? Or are you using that for accessories that are not controlled by the switchpros? Also, are you worried that the terminal connections could get crossed more easily that connecting to the switchpros wiring harness directly?
The busbar and fuseblock are not required but they are pretty common. The busbar expands grounding (it is directly connected to the underhood ground) and the fuse block will allow me to power higher amperage devices than the switch pros can power (like the ARB Twin Compressor on backorder) while still activating them through the switch pros. I think I have less likelihood of miswiring accessories having labelled all of the wiring from the switchpros harness (it is unlabeled from them, just different color wires).
 

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The busbar and fuseblock are not required but they are pretty common. The busbar expands grounding (it is directly connected to the underhood ground) and the fuse block will allow me to power higher amperage devices than the switch pros can power (like the ARB Twin Compressor on backorder) while still activating them through the switch pros. I think I have less likelihood of miswiring accessories having labelled all of the wiring from the switchpros harness (it is unlabeled from them, just different color wires).

Thanks for the info! Could the fuse block could be used to selectively power something as high draw as a winch?
In regards to the connections getting crossed, I am worried that if something were to land on top of the terminal block that is may contact multiple connections at once. Something like mud, water, or a tool. This worry may be unwarranted and that is why i wanted to ask.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the info! Could the fuse block could be used to selectively power something as high draw as a winch?
In regards to the connections getting crossed, I am worried that if something were to land on top of the terminal block that is may contact multiple connections at once. Something like mud, water, or a tool. This worry may be unwarranted and that is why i wanted to ask.
Yes, the fuse block could be but for something that high draw I'd recommend positive straight to your battery. Youll need to have one (forward) trigger wire to go to one of the switch pros buttons and the other (reverse) go to another button. I personally prefer to use the controller through the window to free up 2 buttons on the switch pros.

There are some significantly thick/tall plastic dividers between the blocks and the ones in use I coated with dielectric grease because I have the same fear. It's in a pretty water safe location. I also believe the switch pros has some built in protections, but I'd rather take as many precautions as I can.

Since you said you're a newbie I will bring up there is no power flowing through any of the contacts unless the button on the switch pros is pressed, which then passes power through the switch pros controller to the accessory. Without that power enabled it's just metal. An extreme example would be that one could lick across them with no issue, even while the truck is running.
 
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Gotcha. My winch is already hooked directly to the battery. But I think that I'm weird and would like to not have it powered when it's not in use.

As for the terminal block, like I said my worry is probably unwarranted. Esp. since I avoid the mud puddles and dont plan on making my truck swim anytime soon. I'm a peace of mind kind of guy and I'd love for there to be a waterproof solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Gotcha. My winch is already hooked directly to the battery. But I think that I'm weird and would like to not have it powered when it's not in use.

As for the terminal block, like I said my worry is probably unwarranted. Esp. since I avoid the mud puddles and dont plan on making my truck swim anytime soon. I'm a peace of mind kind of guy and I'd love for there to be a waterproof solution.
I also do not keep my winch connected full time. Either out of superstition (if it's connected I'll need it) or safety (phantom battery drain, whatever). I have 2 nuts on my mil hd type battery connector. The outter one is for the winch positive, which is secured nearby with a zip tie and labelled. The negative stays connected to the grounding post full time.

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I like that. Mine is hooked up all the time. Most of the time I don't notice. But at night I catch the glow of the LEDs inside the bumper. And I wonder each time "Should that be connected 24/7?"

To clarify my last post I'm not afraid to wheel the truck. I've drug the belly, dented the rear bumper, clipped the wheels, etc... But deep river crossing aren't an issue out here and I don't plan on going out of my way to find them. As for mud, that stuff gets everywhere. So i'd rather make my life easier by driving around it. My gf's 4Runner is still shedding mud from some high speed splashing she did a couple of years ago. Every time her vehicle gets wet there is red dirt in the garage...

Edit: I went ahead and ordered the blank power tray last night. I already have the switch pros and lights. I have actually had them for several months. I just keep going back and forth on where to mount it. I was really happy when I stumbled upon your post. I'll avoid drilling into the engine bay if I can. And I think this powertray will do the trick.
 
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