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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Items Needed:
Outlets (I used these)
Good Pure Sine Wave Inverter, like a SAMLEX 600W
Decent Step Bits to drill clutch knockout
Good appropriate gauge cabling (I used 10AWG ANCOR)
Hydraulic Battery Cable Crimp tool (If using bigger than 10AWG cabling)
Connector Crimp tool (10AWG)
Battery Cable Lugs (If using bigger than 10AWG cabling)
Heat Shrink Crimp Connectors
2x Donor 10' extension cables
Drill + oil
Wax String or Zip Ties for cable management
Several hours

Items Recommended:
Copper Foil Tape to minimize EMI
Cheap Cutting Board + Velcro to secure inverter on carpet
Rubber Grommets to prevent abrasion/chafing
Trim Removal Tools to help prevent scratching/breaking trim pieces

Finished product:

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
I started this by routing from my backseat to the battery, since I had the backseat out already. With the backseat in, you will need to use fishing tape to get the power cables run under the carpet. Removing the entire backseat and carpet for just this is probably more trouble than it's worth.

Step0: Completely remove your battery and cut 15' lengths of cabling. Use youtube or the forums if you have not removed your battery yet, as it is not straight forward at all.

Step1: Trim removal/cable routing
Remove the floor trim pieces for front and backseat. These will pop out if you pull up on them (gently). Remove the B pillow lower trim (the piece below where the seatbelt is fed from for the front seats).

Route your cables along the channel. There was enough room for me to run 4x10AWG cables and 4xRF cables that are .24" diameter.

Note: Be gentle with your zip ties and don't zip tie beyond the channel like I did. You'll have to remove the zip ties when passing through the clutch knockout.. Zip ties have sharp edges and will abraid the cable if you crank down on them. Wax string tying is safer but I didn't have any at home.

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Step2: Trim replacement/rear cable routing.
Replace the removed trim pieces in reverse order. The wide flat trim tool is useful for getting the door seals back over the trim.

If your backseat is removed like mine, just lift the carpet and route the cables through the premade slits in the carpet.

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If your backseat is installed and you forgot to route a ground cable (like me), use fishing tape:
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Step3: Clutch Knockout
In the driver footwell, look near the parking brake foot pedal and you will see a feint Florida state pattern. With a strong pair of fingers, or pliers, tear it out.

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Looking from where the battery used to be, locate a similar shape on the engine side of the firewall and remove that as well.

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Take a deep breath, OIL a 1/8 or 3/16 cobalt bit and drill a pilot hole through your firewall from the engine side into the cabin, reapplying oil and letting the bit do the work for you with light pressure.
Take another deep breath and using a step big, step the hole up to the size you need it to be (Based on your cable diameters and grommet size.)

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DEBURR THE HOLE and test fit your rubber grommet. If you're like me, you'll need to step it up slightly more about 5 times until the grommet is snug but not deformed. I put a dab of JB weld on it to hold it in place.

I applied foil tape to each cable and then passed it from the vehicle into the engine bay. Foil tape is probably not necessary but it's cheap insurance and helps keep EMI down.

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Leave those for now.

Step 5: Inverter install/interior cable termination

I self tappered the inverter to one of the cheap cutting boards and applied hook size velcro to the bottom to hook onto the carpet beneath the rear seat.
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Install the cutting boarded-inverter and crimp the cabin cables appropriately.

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The best grounding point I found was the rear driverside seatbelt into the truck (the bottom one). The Colorado is not frame grounded (that I could tell), but I verified continuity with the seatbelt hole in the floor and the battery ground as well as the ground point near the radiator at the front.

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Step6: Ground

Scuff/sand the paint around the seatbelt bottom bolt area.

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Scuff/sand both sides of the bracket:
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Reinstall the seatbelt (and torque him down).

Step7: Power

Reinstall the battery. I don't know what your power distribution setup looks like, but regardless you'll need to terminate the ends of your cables. Whether that is a screw down clamp or crimp+heatshrink, I can't tell you. I ran 2x 10AWG from the inverter to my Switch Pros SP9100 and the spare 2 to my Blue Sea Systems fuseblock for future use. Heatshrink labels are your friend.

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Insert the crimped rear connectors/wires (Different inverters will have different power connections) in the inverter.

Start truck, activate inverter (if applicable), and measure for DC voltage from battery:

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Turn inverter on (if applicable) and measure for AC out of the front:

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Inverter install is now complete. Ensure cables are managed properly, out of harms way, will not abraid or chafe, and either call it done or install some outlets in the cab.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
For remote outlets, I decided the front passenger footwell and center of the rear seat plastic support bracket cover.

For the front seat I needed to remove quite a bit of interior trim. They all popped off when I gently pried using various trim removal tools. All of them are held on with metal push V brackets. You can see the metal part on the driver seat, and the horizontal sockets in the plastic of the passenger footwell. You can see a large opening on the right of the picture; this is where the outlet will go.

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I removed the large passenger left knee piece first, then the cupholder surround, and finally the center console just lifted out. You will need to disconnect the white USB in the center console. Good opportunity to clean all the pieces (Bottom of center console especially).

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Following trim removal, slide fishing tape from the center console to the storage beneath the rear seat. Cut one end off of the 10' extension cord and pulled the end up into the center console.

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Route the cord through the center console on the passenger side until it reaches the large opening in the plastic "structure".

Using a 1.5" hole saw (or whatever size you need for your outlets), make your hole for the outlet to fit into. Deburring tools also work on plastic.
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Reinstall the trim while fishing the cable through the hole. I cut off as much as I could (leaving enough to separate/strip/crimp) from the cable after pulling it through the hole.

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Cut the outter shielding, separate your white/black/ground, strip, crimp, and put connectors on:

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Connect it to the spades on the outlet, and self tapper the out in. Check for proper AC voltage (Pro tip, plug the other end into the inverter and turn the inverter on before getting disappointed in 0v haha).

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The rear seat is even easier since it is so close to the inverter. No trim to mess with or anything. I used the cut off end of the 10' cable to make the rear harness in one piece and then installed it.

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Power checks good
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cleanup the mess you made

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Have a glass of bourbon, and relax.

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Looks good. I like the use of the cutting board. Gives a firmer attachment for the inverter and keeps from putting holes in the body. I've gone as far as using riv-nuts to mount through body before. But the velcro is awesome!
What are you using the rf cables for though? I'm assuming that's why you had the rear seat and carpet out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looks good. I like the use of the cutting board. Gives a firmer attachment for the inverter and keeps from putting holes in the body. I've gone as far as using riv-nuts to mount through body before. But the velcro is awesome!
What are you using the rf cables for though? I'm assuming that's why you had the rear seat and carpet out.
Rivnuts are not fun. The velcro works pretty well. Keeps it from sliding around at least, which was the whole point.

Using the rf cables for CB and GMRS.
 

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That's why I bought a hydraulic riv-nuts tool.

Kind of figured it was something along those lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You got an install thread on that? 🤑
Hasn't happened yet but I sure will. Usually I'll throw some pics in my build thread and later on post a how to when I have time to actually think it through. Plan is to remote mount some heads in the cubby forward of the shifter using rj12 and rj45 jacks fished through the center console similar to the power cord for the pax outlet. Whip antennas on the bullbar aussie style because I like the look and want to keep the roof clear for prinsu rack in the future. Maybe put an nmo mount or two on the bed rails or cab corners
 

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Hasn't happened yet but I sure will. Usually I'll throw some pics in my build thread and later on post a how to when I have time to actually think it through. Plan is to remote mount some heads in the cubby forward of the shifter using rj12 and rj45 jacks fished through the center console similar to the power cord for the pax outlet. Whip antennas on the bullbar aussie style because I like the look and want to keep the roof clear for prinsu rack in the future. Maybe put an nmo mount or two on the bed rails or cab corners
Looking forward to that, you have quality content. Currently in the process of ripping off your PowerTray build wholesale. Appreciate the time and effort you put into these.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Looking forward to that, you have quality content. Currently in the process of ripping off your PowerTray build wholesale. Appreciate the time and effort you put into these.
Thanks. I'm glad you appreciate it. I enjoy the tinkering.

Would these be helpful ?
 

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What are you planning on using that inverter to power and for how long? That's a nice, clean install for sure!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What are you planning on using that inverter to power and for how long? That's a nice, clean install for sure!
Mostly will be used for convenience (laptop charging, etc...) during long roadtrips for passengers or occasionally some equipment for work. Because of the way I have it wired, I can draw ~3.6A from it at 120v. I can potentially increase that to 5A by using my fuseblock instead, but 3.6A should be enough to charge a very large laptop haha.
 

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every time i look up one of your builds, they come out amazing. the power board and now the inverter... I wish I was as good wiring as you.... I would pay you to do that for me but i know that wont happen....(cost time effort distance + more im sure lol) keep doing this stuff man its so cool
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
every time i look up one of your builds, they come out amazing. the power board and now the inverter... I wish I was as good wiring as you.... I would pay you to do that for me but i know that wont happen....(cost time effort distance + more im sure lol) keep doing this stuff man its so cool
Thanks Raptor. I don't think it would be cost effective either, but if you ever run into issues feel free to post in these forums or PM me. Happy to help. Also don't sell yourself short; you could do this. I have learned much of this from these forums and cough tacoma forums cough. Like the front outlet location, from @team_helotes in this post.

Also you have a pretty badass supercharged truck so... haha
 

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These sort of write ups are where the true beauty of these websites comes out.

I wish I could find a Silverado forum that was as great as this one. I also need a good RV site I can trust, haven't spent much time on that search yet.
 
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