How to Install Subwoofers

1018 Views 9 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Bossfess, 3 d ago

mayotte

Discussion Starter · 11 d ago

This is not the only way per se to install subwoofers. This is just the way I did it. Don't come for me. Also don't judge my T-taps or crimps. I can do things right, but the GF was up my butt for attention. I also don't have photos for every single step. So use your imagination.
PS: keep in mind, I have the Bose system, so you'll probably have different colored wires for your factory speaker wires.

Product List:
Subs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0076SIGXW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Box: Rockville REC93 Dual 10" Sub Enclosure Box For Chevy Colorado 2015-18 Crew Cab
LOC: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LIAHSM4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
AMP: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3RF3W?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Step 1: Remove under seat storage plastic organizer. I believe I needed a 10mm socket and deep socket. The rubber bump stops also hold the plastic onto the metal support below.

Step 2: Using a T45 or T40, can't remember, remove the two bolts holding the metal support at the front. Using a 13mm I believe, remove the rear two nuts on the same support. It's pretty tight under the bottom of the seat, so I'd recommend a wrench to get them broken loose.

Step 3: Using 10mm again, remove the plastic support holding onto the power module. (Silver Box with a large harness connection)

Step 4: Pop off the two-door sill covers on the driver side.

Step 5: Pop off the side of the dash where the door usually covers.

Step 6: Carefully cut the wrapping on the harness bundle that is coming from the door. (This is below that cover, but you don't need the cover off to see it) Once you get a lot of the wrapping off, there's another bundle of 2 wires that are covered in thin electrical tape. Cut the tape and separate the wires as much as possible. These are your door speaker wires to use for the line-out converter. (LOC).

Step 7: While you're down there, pop off the huge rubber grommet in the firewall that has a large harness going through it. You won't be able to get it all the way off, so just pull it out enough to fit your power wire through.

Step 8: Wire up your LOC to those two wires. They're blue and brown/blue. I used wiretaps because I'm lazy. For the LOC, I wired the Left and Right positives together as well as the L/R negatives so that both channels of my amp get a signal.

Step 9: In the engine bay now, using a flat head or panel tool, pop up and off the plastic push fasteners that hold the windshield valence on. This is where you'll run the 12v power in.

Step 10: I'm not going to tell you how to measure wire. Set up your power wire and run it from the power distribution block in the engine bay (Not the rated connections. The main connection from the battery on the windshield most side of the block) through the valence, and then down through the grommet in the firewall. I would definitely recommend not hooking it up to power yet though.

Step 11: I used speaker wire for the constant 12v to the LOC and ran it to the 12v connection on the amp. I then ran the remote wire from the LOC to the amp, as the LOC turns on the amp when it senses a signal from the door speaker. For the ground, there's a good clean metal bolt behind that dash cover I asked you to remove.

Step 12: For the ground to the amp, I used that same T45 bolt I took out for the seat support and ran it back into the floor.

Step 13: Run the RCA cables from the LOC to the amp.

Step 14: Wire your subs to the amp. Please do your own research on Dual voice coil vs Single. Ohms. Wattages (RMS btw. Don't look at peak), and how to tune the amp.

Step 15: Connect the ground and then power to your amp. Then 12v cable to the battery. Don't forget your in-line fuse. Keep it as close to the battery as possible. I recommend 4ga cable btw unless you're pushing even more wattage than this. You can get away with 8ga if you're running less than me. Research that yourself. I don't want to be responsible for you lighting your truck on fire.

Step 16: If you're capable, use a multimeter to check all of your resistances, 12v connections, and grounds.

Step 17: Double-check that your LOC "Volume" adjustments, as well as the gain on your amp, are all the way down.

Step 18: Test the system and tune it.

Step 19: Assuming everything is working, tuck all of your wires. I put a lot under the carpet at the edge. It was too difficult for me to run through the plastic channel. The LOC went behind the footrest carpet. My floor mat covers up the rest anyways, so not worried about water seeping through. Also, put all of your plastics back on.

Step 20: NOW HEAD BANG MOFO

See less See more

Save

Reactions: 2

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

_Montana_

· #2 · 11 d ago

Awesome! Still undecided if I want to throw in a full size 12" setup or go this route. Thanks for the listings! I've never installed a system using these LOC's. Is there any difference between the one that you have and something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IIL0LW0/?coliid=IOKRQTVSVI94U&colid=3O2J1W3EFU0OE&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I was considering just removing the storage and bracket setup, then customizing it to hold the seat up behind the driver and using the space on the passenger side for a setup like this:

Box , LOC , Sub , Amp

Or I may just build a full on flat system across the whole backseat area with some storage areas on the drivers side. Either way, I think I'd prefer the full size setup. It's been a long long time since I've had a good system in a vehicle.

Save

mayotte

Discussion Starter · #3 · 11 d ago

_Montana_ said:
Awesome! Still undecided if I want to throw in a full size 12" setup or go this route. Thanks for the listings! I've never installed a system using these LOC's. Is there any difference between the one that you have and something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IIL0LW0/?coliid=IOKRQTVSVI94U&colid=3O2J1W3EFU0OE&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I was considering just removing the storage and bracket setup, then customizing it to hold the seat up behind the driver and using the space on the passenger side for a setup like this:

Box , LOC , Sub , Amp

Or I may just build a full on flat system across the whole backseat area with some storage areas on the drivers side. Either way, I think I'd prefer the full size setup. It's been a long long time since I've had a good system in a vehicle.

I personally need all of my seats so I went flat. They do make a sub enclosure that goes right behind the center console from subthump I believe. That LOC is a bit overkill if you're just using it for subwoofer signal. That one would be good for a full system. I'll also mention that you're going to want the dual 4ohm version of that sub instead so you can wire it in parallel to 2 ohms. That one can only be wired to 4 ohms or 1 ohm so you won't be getting the most out of your amp.

Save

Reactions: 1

_Montana_

· #4 · 11 d ago

mayotte said:
I personally need all of my seats so I went flat. They do make a sub enclosure that goes right behind the center console from subthump I believe. That LOC is a bit overkill if you're just using it for subwoofer signal. That one would be good for a full system. I'll also mention that you're going to want the dual 4ohm version of that sub instead so you can wire it in parallel to 2 ohms. That one can only be wired to 4 ohms or 1 ohm so you won't be getting the most out of your amp.

Awesome. That's very helpful. The last time I did a system was when I was like 17 and it was pretty basic back then. I'll change the sub to the dual 4ohm and keep it simple with the LOC. I'll just get the same one you listed. I did forget to ask if you have the Bose setup?

I looked up the sub box you mentioned. Any reason they only list it compatible up to '21's? Unfortunately it's only for a 10" too. The other one that fits a 12" is for the 1st gen's, but if I could get the dimensions and measure it could work. I'm sure there are universal setups similar. I'm not ruling out a 10" either... really boils down to how I feel about the bose system.

I wish there was a way I could hear a setup like yours, even just a single 10" setup. I just want deeper lows and the ability to essentially remove the majority of bass from the door speakers.

Save

mayotte

Discussion Starter · #5 · 11 d ago

_Montana_ said:
Awesome. That's very helpful. The last time I did a system was when I was like 17 and it was pretty basic back then. I'll change the sub to the dual 4ohm and keep it simple with the LOC. I'll just get the same one you listed. I did forget to ask if you have the Bose setup?

I looked up the sub box you mentioned. Any reason they only list it compatible up to '21's? Unfortunately it's only for a 10" too. The other one that fits a 12" is for the 1st gen's, but if I could get the dimensions and measure it could work. I'm sure there are universal setups similar. I'm not ruling out a 10" either... really boils down to how I feel about the bose system.

I wish there was a way I could hear a setup like yours, even just a single 10" setup. I just want deeper lows and the ability to essentially remove the majority of bass from the door speakers.

If there was a good single 10” option that’s what I would go with. I regret the 12s in my avalanche because subs only work well in a specific amount of enclosure space. So you need to keep that in mind. A shallow mount sub will typically need less box space to be efficient. On top of that, ported boxes need a lot more space than a sealed box, and are a lot less accurate frequency response wise. They’re just really good at being loud af (SPL). The box I got gives 0.5 ft^3 of air space per sub and that’s what each one of mine needed. So they bump harder than my 12s that have 200 more watts each. They don’t have enough box. The reason it’s only up to 21 model year is because our 23s have less space under the seat. Hence why my seats are slightly propped up. Also yes, Bose. For you, I’d honestly recommend a premanufactured (powered) sub. They’ve gotten a lot better in quality over the years and are much simpler. They also take up less space. I’m flying today, but I’ll find a good one to link to one for you.

See less See more

Save

Reactions: 1

_Montana_

· #6 · 11 d ago

mayotte said:
If there was a good single 10” option that’s what I would go with. I regret the 12s in my avalanche because subs only work well in a specific amount of enclosure space. So you need to keep that in mind. A shallow mount sub will typically need less box space to be efficient. On top of that, ported boxes need a lot more space than a sealed box, and are a lot less accurate frequency response wise. They’re just really good at being loud af (SPL). The box I got gives 0.5 ft^3 of air space per sub and that’s what each one of mine needed. So they bump harder than my 12s that have 200 more watts each. They don’t have enough box. The reason it’s only up to 21 model year is because our 23s have less space under the seat. Hence why my seats are slightly propped up. Also yes, Bose. For you, I’d honestly recommend a premanufactured (powered) sub. They’ve gotten a lot better in quality over the years and are much simpler. They also take up less space. I’m flying today, but I’ll find a good one to link to one for you.

Thanks man! That's all stuff I have read about but still have zero understanding of. I look at the frequency response range and tbh, the original sub I wanted was this one:

12" SKAR

And I also read about the bandpass boxes not having the best overall range too. I really only added that box for the price/quality and the fact that bandpasses do hit harder in the low range. So I was hoping that it would work out for me at lower volumes with the lower range I wanted? Since the original plan was to keep it simple with the box setup and just remove seats to make room for a universal one, what box would you recommend for the 12" SKAR?

Save

mayotte

Discussion Starter · #7 · 10 d ago

_Montana_ said:
Thanks man! That's all stuff I have read about but still have zero understanding of. I look at the frequency response range and tbh, the original sub I wanted was this one:

12" SKAR

And I also read about the bandpass boxes not having the best overall range too. I really only added that box for the price/quality and the fact that bandpasses do hit harder in the low range. So I was hoping that it would work out for me at lower volumes with the lower range I wanted? Since the original plan was to keep it simple with the box setup and just remove seats to make room for a universal one, what box would you recommend for the 12" SKAR?

Is your goal just to have as loud of bass as possible? It's cool if it is. But I don't find that enjoyable personally. It also will rattle your truck apart. Im not as knowledgeable on matching subs to vented enclosures, so just double check what the spec sheet recommends for the sub. I'm staying away from skar. That's what's in my avalanche and it's not my favorite brand so far.

Save

_Montana_

· #8 · 10 d ago

mayotte said:
Is your goal just to have as loud of bass as possible? It's cool if it is. But I don't find that enjoyable personally. It also will rattle your truck apart. Im not as knowledgeable on matching subs to vented enclosures, so just double check what the spec sheet recommends for the sub. I'm staying away from skar. That's what's in my avalanche and it's not my favorite brand so far.

No, not loud. Deep at lower volumes and clear throughout. I do plan on adding sound dampening throughout the cab.

Save

Puresound1

· #9 · 10 d ago

_Montana_ said:
No, not loud. Deep at lower volumes and clear throughout. I do plan on adding sound dampening throughout the cab.

The Skar VXF subs are killer! I've got a pair of the VXF 15s in my Silverado and love them! But they like a lot of power.

Save

Bossfess

· #10 · 3 d ago

nice! I put a pair for JBL basspro nano's under the rear seat. Was able to keep the seat level but had to remove the plastic crap. Overall I am super happy. The bass can be way louder than I would like for causal listening. I got them at an auction for 100 each. They used to retail for 199 but are about 220 right now due to inflation (I guess).

Save

Reactions: 1

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

Top Contributors this Month