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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Obligatory not affiliated with 589fab or ARB, I bought all of this myself, none of it was provided to me, etc...

Time required: 4-6hrs
Tools used:
Loooooots of patience (couldn't find a link, maybe someone can post one up for me)
My trusty ATD Saber Under Hood light
Lots of 1/4" drive sockets for hard to reach spots
Ratcheting wrenches. Mostly metric if memory serves me.
Silicone paste dielectric grease
F4 Self-Fusing Silicone Tape. Seriously amazing stuff if you've never heard of/used it before
Slip jaw Pliers
1/4" NPT Coupler (and plugs). I really like these ones by Milton. I've used them longer than any brass ones from local big box stores.
Blue loctite
Zip ties
Electrical connectors
DYMO Rhino 4200 Label Maker
1/4" Knockoff heatshrink tubes
1/2" Knockoff heatshrink tubes

Edit: Removed complaint about Quadratec. Upon investigation appears FedEx reboxed the compressor without any packaging or relabeling.

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Step 1: Remove Coolant Resevoir. I recommend you remove the RAD TANK hose from Coolant Resevoir. You'll need pliers to undo the hose clamp but it comes off easily if you twist it before gently pulling on it. Remove the 2 bolts and you can then rotate the reservoir out of the way as seen above.

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Step 2: Rough fit 589Fab mounting bracket. This does fit with an S&B Cold Air Intake (on the diesel). I have the blockoff plate installed vice the auxiliary intake tube (diesel exclusive, sorry gassers).

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Step 3: Test fit ARB compressor installed on bracket. With the tight tolerances between the airbox and the bracket my installation orientation was forced (I think the correct way per the 589fab online pictures). If mounted with the intake facing the truck rear (right side of picture) it is almost flush with the airbox side of the mount (left side of picture)

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Step 4: Finalize mount. I used blue loctite because I loctite, strain relieve, and chafe protect all things. Or try to. I still learn these lessons quite often. I also applied silicone dielectric grease to the connectors I wouldn't have access to after setting the compressor+bracket in the truck.

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Left connector I wouldn't have access to. There is another on the opposite side.

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All of that was the easy part and took 30mins or so. Next were the "fun" parts
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Step 5: Don't be an idiot, install the ARB Manifold now. I installed the manifold when the ARB Twin was already bolted to the truck and boy was it extra "fun". Basically I followed the directions.
  • Step 5.1: Loosen both of the 10mm end bolts (called through bolts) to allow clocking (rotating) of each of the 3 manifold pieces (both of the 1/4" NPT ends and the center section containing two capped air locker solenoid outputs)
  • Step 5.2: Install the included adapter (I recommend PTFE/teflon tape) for the included steel braided hose into one of the 1/4" NPT fittings. I chose the rear one so I could use the forward for the NPT Coupler. You can also attach your 1/4" NPT coupler now if you choose and clock it out of the way for bolt install.
  • Step 5.3: Using the supplied 10mm black bolts, bolt up the manifold to the 589fab mount.

I don't have many pictures of it because I was too busy inventing new curse words for my poor order of operations.

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  • Step 5.4: Install the other included adapter for the SS braided hose that connects the compressor output to the manifold. I recommend PTFE tape.
  • Step 5.5: Connect SS braided hose from ARB twin to Manifold. Clock the manifold as necessary to line up the fittings and very carefully, with minimal force, attach the stainless braided hose. The potential for crossthreading it here is very real. I recommend PTFE tape.
  • Step 5.6: Tighten through bolts once happy with clocking setup.

Step 6: Harness prep. Since ARB doesn't make air lockers for the truck (yet ? Please ? Truck Gods ?) I wanted to protect them. I coated the wires in dielectric and ziplock + zip tied the solenoid activators. I then used an adhesive lined heatshrink cap to cover it all.

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I finished by coating the outside of all the remaining connectors in dielectric and connected them.

Step 7: Harness routing. I loosely routed the cable bundle along the upper cowl to estimate length before termination.

I connected the 2x Positive wires to the Blue Sea Systems fuse block with 2x 30A fuses (not pictured)

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I connected 2x Negative wires to the Blue Sea Systems negative busbar (very short cable to the underhood ground, minimal impedance and loss).

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The trigger wire is the purple wire from the harness. I cut off the original connector, but there is an adapter sold by Switch-Pros if so inclined. I connected it to the Blue Sea Systems Terminal Block that easily connects everything to the switch pros.

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If you're interested in my electrical distribution setup, I made a How-To Here

I finalized the routing of the harness along the upper cowl by drilling holes and using zip-ties. The harness is already inside of a silicone tube so I'm not as concerned about zip tie abrasion.

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To gather the excess, I individually F4 tape wrapped the radiator hose and the wiring bundle that was left over before F4 taping them together.

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Step 7: File/trim your coolant reservoir. The coolant resevoir was fairly form fitting before and would not fit for me either in front or behind the 589fab bracket without some minor filing.

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Step 8: Bracket secured. I found it easiest to attach the bracket to the bolts first, and then the resevoir. Specifically attaching the resevoir to the fender bolt and tightening that completely, then it would slide over the firewall bolt.

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Step 9: Ops check. Attach a hose and fire it up. I made a poor mans regulator out of some spare pieces I had laying around and it immediately (~3sec) pressurized to 150PSI and stayed there with minimal leakage (I took the pic several minutes after shutting it off. I'll accept 140PSI).

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Next I hooked up an open NPT end and let it run wide open for a minute or so (100% duty cycle on the ARB Twin) while I monitored my battery voltage to ensure it wouldn't kill the truck while idling in park. With the headlights on the Switch Pros app reported 14.5v. Compressor initial endrush dropped it to 13.9v but stabilized at 14.2v for the duration.

I drained 5psi from each of my tires with a Grit Performance rapid deflator tool to make sure the hose length is sufficient as I refilled to 35PSI.

All checked out good !

Came in very handy on the tail end of the beach primitive camping trip I recently returned from. Had no issues airing down to 18-20PSI with 265/70/R17 on stock wheels.

Awaiting your comments, questions, and probably critiques.
 

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Interested in what heat shrink labeler you are using. Seems to hold up well as the pigment is not faded from constant underhood temps or the shrinking process.

Sit, Ubu, sit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Interested in what heat shrink labeler you are using. Seems to hold up well as the pigment is not faded from constant underhood temps or the shrinking process.

Sit, Ubu, sit.
It's a DYMO Rhino 4200 and I love this thing. Runs on rechargable internal battery or AAs; can be used while charging as well. I'm not sure if it's the original heatshrink tubing included from DYMO (kinda doubt it) or some of the Aonomi knockoff reels that are significantly cheaper and work just as well or better. I used 1/2" Aonomi heatshrink on the ARB twin/Inverter/Cab3&4 cabling and some 1/4" Aonomi heatshrink label tubes on the smaller wiring to the terminal block. The 1/2" works really well for LAN cables and RF cables up to .240" as well.
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It's a DYMO Rhino 4200 and I love this thing. Runs on rechargable internal battery or AAs; can be used while charging as well. I'm not sure if it's the original heatshrink tubing included from DYMO (kinda doubt it) or some of the Aonomi knockoff reels that are significantly cheaper and work just as well or better. I used 1/2" Aonomi heatshrink on the ARB twin/Inverter/Cab3&4 cabling and some 1/4" Aonomi heatshrink label tubes on the smaller wiring to the terminal block. The 1/2" works really well for LAN cables and RF cables up to .240" as well.
View attachment 416224
Thank you! I have an older dymo that doesn't have the capability and have been shopping.

Btw I have been using basic multi color straws on cat cable for years. Works great for basic designations by color.

Always enjoy your write ups. Not only full of pictures but the "doh, shouldn't have done that" moments and product details and links. Thank you.

Sit, Ubu, sit.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you! I have an older dymo that doesn't have the capability and have been shopping.

Btw I have been using basic multi color straws on cat cable for years. Works great for basic designations by color.

Always enjoy your write ups. Not only full of pictures but the "doh, shouldn't have done that" moments and product details and links. Thank you.

Sit, Ubu, sit.
Thank you. That really means a lot.

Also that straw trick is going in my toolbox haha. Especially since they're removable+changeable+reusable when re-terminating, unlike color coded heatshrink.
 
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Thank you. That really means a lot.

Also that straw trick is going in my toolbox haha. Especially since they're removable+changeable+reusable when re-terminating, unlike color coded heatshrink.
I actually had an old timer show me that years back. But he had one hell of a fine tip permanent marker and he wrote on basic white or clear ones to lable them. That part is beyond my skill set
I will add hashmarks on the straws as number designators if needed. Basically working it like "Blue-2" would be blue straw two lines with a sharpie. Most of the time I only need the color designations though.

Sit, Ubu, sit.
 

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Its sad that I cannot use the 589 braket for the ARB compressor.. I have a coolant tank for my SC in the way.. how was the wiring on the compressor? I still plan for an ARB twin compressor but i need to find another place for it.. so wiring is kind of an issue for me, I also plan to hook it up to an interior switch to turn it on/off, how easy or hard is it to wire up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Its sad that I cannot use the 589 braket for the ARB compressor.. I have a coolant tank for my SC in the way.. how was the wiring on the compressor? I still plan for an ARB twin compressor but i need to find another place for it.. so wiring is kind of an issue for me, I also plan to hook it up to an interior switch to turn it on/off, how easy or hard is it to wire up?
The wiring was very straightforward for me. 2 positive, 2 negative, one trigger wire. The 2 positive and 2 negatives stay hooked up all the time, and the trigger wire will turn the compressor on when it receives ~12v.

The ARB Twin comes with a rocker switch for the cab and the entire length of wiring necessary to mount it. Because I have a Switch Pros SP9100 already installed, I didn't need it.

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CCE has an ARB single or twin bracket option, but no experience and I haven't seen anyone post pictures of it on here so YMMV. It mounts a single or twin in front of the airbox, so probably will not work with a CAI. I also have my catch can up there, so doubly would not work for me.

I initially was curious in mounting the compressor in the rear fender wells and making a cutout panel similar to this AEV concept. In the end the 589Fab bracket was the easiest option for me and distributes weight up front instead of the rear (like most other things) so that's what I selected. I also ordered their shock skids but have yet to install.

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yeah that bracket wont work either. during the supercharger install, I had to attach my emission device thing to onto the engine air-box. and there it would exist in the same place as that bracket would put it... turns out a supercharger gets in the way of a lot of cool stuff... (to stay emissions legal)
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yeah that bracket wont work either. during the supercharger install, I had to attach my emission device thing to onto the engine air-box. and there it would exist in the same place as that bracket would put it... turns out a supercharger gets in the way of a lot of cool stuff... (to stay emissions legal)
Sounds like you're going to need to create your own solution, and that's going to be really exciting for me to read about haha. Or you could do Anderson connectors and make/buy the case ARB Twin kit

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I was thinking of putting some of that stuff near the bed, underneath but my armor plates would have to be removed and some fenegaling with wiring--which i suck at
 
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Sounds like you're going to need to create your own solution, and that's going to be really exciting for me to read about haha. Or you could do Anderson connectors and make/buy the case ARB Twin kit

View attachment 416292
Great write up! If I go with an ARB, it will most likely be the portable unit shown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was thinking of putting some of that stuff near the bed, underneath but my armor plates would have to be removed and some fenegaling with wiring--which i suck at
I'm in NC if you're nearby and want some assistance. Electrical wiring is mostly about having the right very niche tools and knowing a little bit of theory. I'm sure you could learn and purchase all the tools, if so inclined.

Great write up! If I go with an ARB, it will most likely be the portable unit shown.
Thanks ! I vacillated between the two options but chose the 589fab mount because it weighs less than the pelican I would use. If the ARB Twin outlives the truck, I'll probably transfer it to a pelican and add the remote tank.
 

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Id love the help ARCowboy, but im about 2600 miles from you.. kinda not possible physically. thru the forum id be grateful
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Id love the help ARCowboy, but im about 2600 miles from you.. kinda not possible physically. thru the forum id be grateful
Absolutely !
 

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I sincerely want to thank you for taking the time to photograph and document this modification. I was on a wait list for the ARB and mine got in last week. I'm on a wait list for the 589 Bracket too, so my installer will definitely be using these instructions. I hope to have this on by the end of this month.

I also toyed with the idea of running lines to each wheel well, but those female connections might get a little dirty. I think we are running the lines to the front and rear.

You're an asset to this community.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I sincerely want to thank you for taking the time to photograph and document this modification. I was on a wait list for the ARB and mine got in last week. I'm on a wait list for the 589 Bracket too, so my installer will definitely be using these instructions. I hope to have this on by the end of this month.

I also toyed with the idea of running lines to each wheel well, but those female connections might get a little dirty. I think we are running the lines to the front and rear.

You're an asset to this community.
Absolutely. It was my pleasure. I'm glad you'll get some use from it. Let me know if anything is unclear or you'd like more pictures of something.
 

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I forwarded the link to my vendor, Adventure Off Road here in California, who did a great job on my AEV Bumpers and Baja Designs Light Package. They will fool with this modification, as I don't have the proper skill set. Suspension upgrade is on hold due to a shortage of the longer CV Joints necessary for the Bajakits Lift Kit. Shocks and control arms are in, and waiting on the CV Joints.

I will say this--getting air into tires used to be a really easy proposition. But our Jeep sends us texts and emails constantly if the tire pressure is 2 pounds lower that it should be. I'm surprised they didn't phone me. In addition, finding a gas station with functioning air compressors is a bit of a coin toss. The last time I needed air (in the Jeep), it was a 30 minute exit from the highway to find a gas station with air and properly top off the tires. Having an on board air compressor for tires and inflatable kayaks will be a nice luxury for me.
 
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