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My 10k mile maintenance plan states to lubricate the Chassis. I Have never done this before. My understanding is I'm going to need a grease gun and some grease. Any recommendations here?

Also, I need to know all of the lube points. Is there a chart somewhere? Will I need Zerks or are they pre installed? Would it be better to do this while its warmish outside?

Thanks for the help
 

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My 10k mile maintenance plan states to lubricate the Chassis. I Have never done this before. My understanding is I'm going to need a grease gun and some grease. Any recommendations here?

Also, I need to know all of the lube points. Is there a chart somewhere? Will I need Zerks or are they pre installed? Would it be better to do this while its warmish outside?

Thanks for the help
Lol!
Ask your service advisor to define the procedure, because there are no zerk fittings on our trucks. All 3 of my trucks are/were over 10K miles, and not once was this ever mentioned during a scheduled service, nor noted as being done on any paperwork.
 

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My 10k mile maintenance plan states to lubricate the Chassis. I Have never done this before. My understanding is I'm going to need a grease gun and some grease. Any recommendations here?

Also, I need to know all of the lube points. Is there a chart somewhere? Will I need Zerks or are they pre installed? Would it be better to do this while its warmish outside?

Thanks for the help
I'm very curious, where did you come up with this "maintenance plan"? Sounds like an antiquated generic plan from somewhere to me. Read you owners manual and follow that.

Was it a Jiffy Lube type place? Don't listen to those boobs, your money is their only concern.

If your dealer told you this, ask them how much to only lube the chassis. This should be funny.

Do the oil change when the truck tells you too and the other stuff when the owners manual for your truck tells you too.

Watch out for the "need to clean your injectors" BS too. They are full of crap. Your truck is WAY to new for that BS.
 
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Only things I lubricate before winter are the door hinges, latches, tailgate latches, and Silicone spray (Armor All) the door seals since we are in cold weather Wisconsin with salty roads. Grease gun is only used now on my riding lawn mower and my snowblower.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm very curious, where did you come up with this "maintenance plan"? Sounds like an antiquated generic plan from somewhere to me. Read you owners manual and follow that.

Was it a Jiffy Lube type place? Don't listen to those boobs, your money is their only concern.

If your dealer told you this, ask them how much to only lube the chassis. This should be funny.

Do the oil change when the truck tells you too and the other stuff when the owners manual for your truck tells you too.

Watch out for the "need to clean your injectors" BS too. They are full of crap. Your truck is WAY to new for that BS.
It's the dealer's extended maintenance plan that was in my welcome packet. Obviously I'm not going to be paying anyone to do this, but it seemed like a fun project and I want to take care of the truck. Didn't realize that would draw so much consternation on an enthusiast's forum :eyeroll:

Maybe my info is old (Zerk fittings etc), bc I asked my old man for advice on how this works, since pop does pretty well teaching this stuff as a Dad should, and has been in the auto industry for 50 years (old!)

Re: the injectors, I run a bottle of techrolene before each oil change as I always have. the cost is below trivial to me.
 

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It's the dealer's extended maintenance plan that was in my welcome packet. Obviously I'm not going to be paying anyone to do this, but it seemed like a fun project and I want to take care of the truck. Didn't realize that would draw so much consternation on an enthusiast's forum :eyeroll:

Maybe my info is old (Zerk fittings etc), bc I asked my old man for advice on how this works, since pop does pretty well teaching this stuff as a Dad should, and has been in the auto industry for 50 years (old!)

Re: the injectors, I run a bottle of techrolene before each oil change as I always have. the cost is below trivial to me.
Gotcha, yeah sounds like a dealer "unneeded make us more money plan". Can't say for sure because I've never seen it but there aren't any lube points (fittings) and dealers are known for up-selling unneeded "maintenance". Maybe it's door hinges, ect...??

Anyway, just stick to what the book (and GM, NOT GM dealer) says if you ask me.

I think Techroline is not a bad thing, especially if you don't know the quality of the gas you get.
 

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Maybe my info is old (Zerk fittings etc), bc I asked my old man for advice on how this works, since pop does pretty well teaching this stuff as a Dad should, and has been in the auto industry for 50 years (old!)

My 2008 Canyon did not have any zerk fittings either from the factory, but over the years, as parts got added and replaced, I ended up with grease fittings on the front and rear driveshaft U-joints, lower control arm bushings (Skyjacker), and sway bar end links.



Now, I just use the grease gun for my EZ lube trailer axle bearings.
 
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I think some time ago, they realized most people are too stupid, lazy or cheap to grease their cars. Half the mechanics would miss various fittings or just pretend to grease them anyway. Then I'm sure the enviromentalist hippies got offended if some grease fell off your fittings onto the road. Greasing is also bad because it makes your parts last longer. How can they sell you any parts if they don't wear out? I wonder how many people are now dead due to ungreased, failed ball joints?
 

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Years ago everyone had grease fitting accept for the Fords. They put in plugs that had to be replaced so you could grease the chassis.

Then the imports came and they did not put in anything. Many of the cars by the time they wear out their ball joints were not worth fixing anyways.

The Americans soon followed. Once you did replace the part you did get a grease fitting in the replacement parts.

Today you are lucky if you have one fitting on the drive shaft yoke on some trucks if they even have it yet.

It comes down to cost savings and the fact they are trying to seal up these areas so they can not be contaminated.

In the past so many times mechanics would lube and blow out the boots to where water /dirt got in doing more damage than not lubing it.

Today's parts are doing well. Most hold up but some are still not designed as well and will fail.

The worst were Ford King Pins on trucks and vans. People would not lube them and they would freeze up. I had seen many a mechanic heat them and grease them while beating them with a hammer. Heat is not a good thing on a cast suspension part. It is a wonder more did not fail.
 

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Full-size Silverados/GMT's, at least up through 2015, had zerks on the tie-rod ends, but that was it. This might be left-over language copied from another model's manual.

I haven't seen any zerks on the Colorado but I haven't looked for any yet (4k miles)

Lube the hinges/latches and locks, and that's probably it.
 

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Just smear everything with a liberal coating of bear grease and let 'er be. >:)

As a side note, my 3500's had 11 (that's right - eleven) zerk fittings, one of which was a real pain to get to. When the dealer service rep proudly told me they had greased all 6 it only reinforced my DIY instincts.
 

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This is sort of an odd thread. I'm surprised no one seems to lube their chassis any more, but I can see why. I did on my 89 Ranger, but nothing since, and I haven't had any issues. That said the only other vehicle I've put close to 200,000 miles on was our 2005 Rav4, which the daughter now owns.

But despite the blinker fluid comment above, the manual does specify a lubricant for the chassis, and a different lubricant for the hinges and such. So the idea of lubing the chassis is apparently not as far out as some here would suggest. It's probably just overkill.
 

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My truck has over a dozen lube points and I hit them often.

If it moves, grease it.....if it doesn't, paint it.
 
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Do you have an easy way of pointing those different places out? You would think someone would have created a diagram.
My drivetrain is partially custom. It's pretty straightforward though. This is just the parts I lubricate that have grease fittings. The rest of the points get some type of spray lubricant depending on a couple factors.

Upper ball joints x 2
Lower ball joints x 2
Tie Rods x 2
Front driveshaft x 4 -- 3 ujoints and the slip shaft splines
Rear driveshaft x 4 -- 3 ujoints and the slip shaft splines
 
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My drivetrain is partially custom. It's pretty straightforward though. This is just the parts I lubricate that have grease fittings. The rest of the points get some type of spray lubricant depending on a couple factors.

Upper ball joints x 2
Lower ball joints x 2
Tie Rods x 2
Front driveshaft x 4 -- 3 ujoints and the slip shaft splines
Rear driveshaft x 4 -- 3 ujoints and the slip shaft splines
Yours is also a 2010 and his is a 2019 which doesn't have those fittings.
 

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Yours is also a 2010 and his is a 2019 which doesn't have those fittings.
The 2010's didn't either. I built mine.
 
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