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Well, back to the subject, In my case, and others Im sure, we high mileage drivers may find 2-300K on the clock within six years. I doubt these trucks, frame rust and all, are doomed that early. What is more economical? an engine rebuild, or a new long block?
l understand your point but the engine is only one component. With the kind of high mileage you are referring to there are likely to be other issues. Figure in at least one transmission rebuild, several batteries, shocks, brake jobs and incidentals like alternator, ac compressor and starter and the so called "Nickle / dimeing to death" syndrome.

While it will be less expensive than buying a new truck, especially if you do the work yourself, you also have to factor in down time and the proverbial "I'm sick of this truck" feeling that typically kicks in after you've spent all that time and money fixing things.

If I were looking for longevity in a truck, l would move up to a 2500 Duramax. All the components are so much heavier and designed for long service.

BTW: When l was moderating DieselPlace.com, we had a member who had well over 500k on his Duramax, most of it towing, before having to rebuild his engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Yes, I know, If I wanted a 500K engine I should have got a diesel.
Well, look, Im at 76K in 30 months. Unless I get a beater to drive to work, I don't see that mileage going down.
150K in 5 years.
And thanks for the tip, Tom, now I need to be shopping for a transmission too!
 

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I know. I was just kidding around.
I just learned this, kind of interesting and very infuriating. I heard here in CA to buy ammo now you must have a registered gun that matches it. A buddy was going dove hunting, went to buy 12 gauge ammo, he has his grandpa's old un registered shotgun. They wouldn't sell him ammo because he didn't have a 12 gauge registered to him. WTF? Yes, a new law came into effect in Jan (I think) that we have to have a background check to buy ammo now, AND a registered gun to match.
Good thing I have a wide selection of calibers ;)

In IL, you have to have a foid to buy a bb gun that shoots over 1,200 fps.
And foid to buy ammo.
 

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Yes, I know, If I wanted a 500K engine I should have got a diesel.
Well, look, Im at 76K in 30 months. Unless I get a beater to drive to work, I don't see that mileage going down.
150K in 5 years.
And thanks for the tip, Tom, now I need to be shopping for a transmission too!
Hey, I'd rather spend your money than mine! 😁
 

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Discussion Starter #45
correction: 78K
 

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Good thing I have a wide selection of calibers ;)

In IL, you have to have a foid to buy a bb gun that shoots over 1,200 fps.
And foid to buy ammo.
I plan to to buy a pistol before the upcoming election for piece of mind. I don't hunt, yes I have shot a gun, and no I am not crazy. I am crazy scared of the crap the socialists will try to impose on us!
 
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I plan to to buy a pistol before the upcoming election for piece of mind. I don't hunt, yes I have shot a gun, and no I am not crazy. I am crazy scared of the crap the socialists will try to impose on us!
Have fun trying to find what you want if you want anything specific. Inventory is very low. I ended up going through about 5 pages of Google search pages to find a place that actually had the gun I wanted in stock, and it was about the 5th model I'd looked for. Turns out it was better than some of the earlier things I was looking for, so somewhat thankful.

Edit: I think I may have found it through gun deals dot com. They show several links to retailers, most of which don't actually have it in stock. But it may have also been Google. With Gun Deals you can search for specific models.

 

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Discussion Starter #48
You bought a LCRX and not a SP101?
Taurus has a line of J frame based 6 shooters in .38+P. if you can find any. Thanks for the tip.
 

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You bought a LCRX and not a SP101?
Actually I bought the LCR--the concealed hammer model. Not sure why that LCRX was in my browser history, but that's where I found the link.

I prefer 9mm to only have one type of ammunition around (although I do also own a .380).
 

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Total waste. I had all new, 2002, 2007 and 2011 Chevy Avalanche trucks. I put 100k of each, repairs were one u-joint. I now have a 2018 Cororado 4x4, wish I still had my 2011 Avalanche.
 

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I'd consider buying a low mileage one from a wreck or a high mileage one and rebuild it instead.

EDIT: Upon reflection, if I had to replace the engine, I'd be looking at a small block V:8. 😁
LS ALL the things! =)
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Total waste. I had all new, 2002, 2007 and 2011 Chevy Avalanche trucks. I put 100k of each, repairs were one u-joint. I now have a 2018 Cororado 4x4, wish I still had my 2011 Avalanche.
I never paid much attention to the Avalanche/Escalade until I got into a Chevy and started looking at what folks are driving. That vehicle is everywhere. Chevy must have sold a million of them. They seem to be indestructible. Great family cars with a lot of utility.
 
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If I wanted to buy a new GM crate engine, how should I do it?
I don't need one now, but If I can get one reasonably, I would call it spare parts.
Modern engines when well cared for easily last 200k. What tends to go is the rest of the vehicle, long before the engine is shot. In any case, GM stocks perfect replacement parts for the engine on modern trucks.
 

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Modern engines when well cared for easily last 200k. What tends to go is the rest of the vehicle, long before the engine is shot. In any case, GM stocks perfect replacement parts for the engine on modern trucks.
Counting the daughter no longer living with us, we have three vehicles with engines over 200,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Modern engines when well cared for easily last 200k. What tends to go is the rest of the vehicle, long before the engine is shot. In any case, GM stocks perfect replacement parts for the engine on modern trucks.
I put 120K of my 02 Ranger V6's 300K and drove it till March 2018.
Yep, I didn't get out just because the lower end was goin, but the rest of the truck was done as well.
The super cab door latches broke, The AC had a persistent leak and I had to do something with the AC blower which required removing the Air box, coolant and overflow tanks and cruise control motor.
The transmission and rear end were amazing, never had to do a thing to them.
 

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Unless you are racing I wouldn't bother. I've never had one fail under 250k with good maintenance. By then it's probably time for a new truck.
Engines are made so we'll now days failures requiring full replacement are rare.
If it fails under 200k I would consider it a lemon.
 

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Well, look, Im at 76K in 30 months. Unless I get a beater to drive to work, I don't see that mileage going down.
150K in 5 years.
I suspect your high monthly mileage would be an aid to getting a higher total mileage before wearing out. You likely have fewer start/stop cycles and also are probably driving a lot of highway miles. Both of those would contribute to more total miles, on average.

Of course you could also be like the person in the other thread who had major valvetrain issues at under 60k. But I agree with others the key is good maintenance.
 
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