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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone explain where the OEM relays are located on 2nd GEN Colorados? The Upfitters electrical diagrams show these as part of the under-hood fuse block, but none of the relays are listed in the box itself, complete mystery to me :( !!!

I have a ZR2 (no fog lights) but obviously horn and high beams are standard equipment. I do have all the fuses installed also. (F48/15A fog lights, F51/15A horn, F37/F38/10A high beams)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The low beams/DRL's and turn signals are all run through the Body Control Module (BCM

In the engine compartment fuse block:
F33 - BCM
Yes, I understand F33 in the fuse box is used for the BCM, but where are the above relays physically located? Are you saying they are in the BCM? That's not what the drawing's show.
 

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I downloaded the upfitter manual, and found a note in the file that says:

"Note: Relays listed below are non-serviceable Printed Circuit Board (PCB) relays and are internal to the block."

Page 114 of the manual.

High beam relay, horn relay and fog lamp relays are in the table.

So they are non-serviceable. Likely built into the fuse block under the hood on a PCB.
 

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Do either of you know if the upfitter manual gives any direction on how to loosen the fuse block from the plastic tray holding it in place?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I'm assuming you loosen the three bolts and it lifts out. I would like to bypass the BCM but still use the factory fog relay and fuse by adding a trigger relay to the fog lamp switch to pilot the factory relay then just wire my fog lights to the existing fuse F48 with a add-a-circuit fuse.
 

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I'm assuming you loosen the three bolts and it lifts out.
I was attempting the removal last night (I really only need to loosen it and set it a few inches to the side anyway) but stopped and figured I should see if anyone has done it first. Those 3 bolts on the face of the fuse panel could be the ticket, but seems they would have to be pretty long to also be securing the whole plastic housing that's ~8" deep. I loosened the 3 bolts all the way to the point that they spin in place and make a 'popping' noise. Possibly more upward pressure is required to pull the bolts out, but that's where I stopped.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was attempting the removal last night (I really only need to loosen it and set it a few inches to the side anyway) but stopped and figured I should see if anyone has done it first. Those 3 bolts on the face of the fuse panel could be the ticket, but seems they would have to be pretty long to also be securing the whole plastic housing that's ~8" deep. I loosened the 3 bolts all the way to the point that they spin in place and make a 'popping' noise. Possibly more upward pressure is required to pull the bolts out, but that's where I stopped.
I believe this is required to install the factory fog light kit, since you have to make a connection on one of the BCM connectors on the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was attempting the removal last night (I really only need to loosen it and set it a few inches to the side anyway) but stopped and figured I should see if anyone has done it first. Those 3 bolts on the face of the fuse panel could be the ticket, but seems they would have to be pretty long to also be securing the whole plastic housing that's ~8" deep. I loosened the 3 bolts all the way to the point that they spin in place and make a 'popping' noise. Possibly more upward pressure is required to pull the bolts out, but that's where I stopped.
I believe this is required to install the factory fog light kit, since you have to make a connection on one of the BCM connectors on the bottom.

Starting at step 17 in the link below

http://coloradofans.com/forums/385-2nd-gen-how-tutorials/280482-how-oem-fog-light-kit-install-p-n-23459834-a.html
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Seems it would be much easier to just use an add-a-fuse connector at fuse F48, and splice to your fog lights. Need to isolate wire 1317 and wire 192 from BCM and use external trigger relay tied to the fog lamp switch

 

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I was attempting the removal last night (I really only need to loosen it and set it a few inches to the side anyway) but stopped and figured I should see if anyone has done it first. Those 3 bolts on the face of the fuse panel could be the ticket, but seems they would have to be pretty long to also be securing the whole plastic housing that's ~8" deep. I loosened the 3 bolts all the way to the point that they spin in place and make a 'popping' noise. Possibly more upward pressure is required to pull the bolts out, but that's where I stopped.
This is also where I stopped. Only now I’ve lost power to the wipers, high beams, axle lockers, & emissions system... Just from loosening the three bolts?!


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This is also where I stopped. Only now I’ve lost power to the wipers, high beams, axle lockers, & emissions system... Just from loosening the three bolts?!


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Did you solve this? See my other thread here, it confirms how to remove the fuse block:
 

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Idiot alert: in a hurry I forgot to tighten down the (3) bolts. Checked them the next morning, snugged them up & all was well with the world! Had wanted to wire in the tow harness up front, went to the tail instead. Successfully towed the ZR2 behind the RV yesterday. Hooked to a CBI half (stealth) bumper with a BlueOx tow bar.


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