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Help Cranks but won’t start new fuel pump and it isn’t passlock

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Hi I have a 2006 Chevy Colorado with the 3.5 i5 that won’t start

the truck was running in my driveway warming up as it was cold outside hop in it and start to back out of my driveway it makes it 100ft and it dies and it won’t start back up

tow it into our shop and test the relay it’s good check all the fuses they’re fine next I pulled the box off to check the fuel pump(I’ve recently bought the truck and was told it have a brand new sending unit and pump) sure enough there was a new pump checked for power back there and we got nothing so we cleaned all the grounds and the ground splice box up and still nothing
We put 12v to the pump and it came on so the pump was good we pressurized the fuel rail and started the truck it ran fine until it ran out of fuel, that’s how I know this isn’t a passlock issue because passlock won’t allow the injectors to open.

I have no idea what to check for next or what to do next I’m losing my mind on this one
Any help is greatly appreciated
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Also got a code p0230 for the fuel pump primary circuit
And abs fault is on the little dash screen but the truck has new hubs
Make sure you have power on the pump side of the fuse at the fuse block. Use one of those probes that light up. There's 2 small points of contact on the back of each fuse. Check both sides in/out for power with the key in the run position.
And abs fault is on the little dash screen but the truck has new hubs
Are you SURE it's not the passlock? Just look for the light. Have you checked into all these ground problems these trucks have? This might help.
You may want to look for corrosion in the fuse block. There is a write up on the 355 nation on cleaning the fuse block. I did it on my 05 and I have not had fuel pump problems again.
I had had 2 no starts on my 05 that were no fuel pump run.
Luck
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Are you SURE it's not the passlock? Just look for the light. Have you checked into all these ground problems these trucks have? This might help.
I don’t believe it is passlock because the light doesn’t flash when cranking and I have gotten the truck to start only by putting 12v to the pump passlock won’t allow the injectors to open if I’m correct
You may want to look for corrosion in the fuse block. There is a write up on the 355 nation on cleaning the fuse block. I did it on my 05 and I have not had fuel pump problems again.
I had had 2 no starts on my 05 that were no fuel pump run.
Luck
Shockingly the fuse block looked great when I pulled it apart and cleaned it
I called a local shop and they said they just had one in with the same exact problem they said it was due to a faulty pcm what are the odds it’s the pcm?
There is not much to the fuel pump circuit. The fuel pump is controlled by the PCM which energizes the fuel pump relay (relay 51). The relay contacts apply +12 volts to the pump through fuse 13.

I am sorry that I can not help more at the moment but my eyes are dilated from a doctor visit and i can not read the schematic right now.

Here are the schematics for the fuel pump:



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Here are a few more comments. I seriously doubt that it is the PCM and unless you have proven the rest of the circuit is good, I would not suspect the PCM.

From past experience I would suspect the following:
1. fuse 13 and it's socket
2. relay 51 and it's socket
3. G105 / SP105. Open up SP105 and inspect inside for burnt contacts inside.
4. The wiring between the relay / fuse box amd the fuel pump. I would really suspect the fuel pump ends where I have seen several open up from a nick in the wire which corrodes it open. I would also suspect the wiring between the fuel pump on the ground side between the fuel pump and SP105.

The ground for both the relay and the pump is SP105 and G105 which is located on the inner fender.

As a side note, the PCM only runs the pump for about 5 seconds when the key is turned on. After that it shuts off the circuit if the engine is not running. You can pull relay 51 and jumper the contacts (not he coil) . With the relay removed find the contact that is hot all the time and jumper it to the pin diagonal to it. This will put fused +12 volts direct to the pump continuously regardless of what the PCM is doing and allow you to proove the pump fuse 13 and all of the wiring is good.

II will quit for now as I can not see what I am typing. Tomorrow when I can see again I will proof read this to see if it is understandable.

Good Luck
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I did not see this posting yesterday when I answered your other post. I can see today. This error code says that the PCM can not see the circuit to and through the relay coil to ground.

read this:

Then suspect the ground at SP105, the relay to PCM wiring for the coil side of the relay, the relay (just swap it) or a bad connection in the relay socket.
I did not see this posting yesterday when I answered your other post. I can see today. This error code says that the PCM can not see the circuit to and through the relay coil to ground.

read this:

Then suspect the ground at SP105, the relay to PCM wiring for the coil side of the relay, the relay (just swap it) or a bad connection in the relay socket.
Okay so I have swapped the relay with a know working one and I am getting contact from that relay
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The ground splice box seems to be okay but I cleaned it up anyways (sp105) still no start I’ve had the fuse block apart no corrosion the power train relay and the fuel pump relay both don’t click when trying to start the truck I don’t know what else to check my dad thinks it’s the oil pressure switch shutting off the fuel pump is that a possibility?
I have 12v to the fuel pump relay but not to the fuel pump fuse with that being said I can rule out the pcm completely right?
Sorry, I misunderstood your previous postings.
There are two sections and circuits involved with turning on the fuel pump.

The first circuit has to do with powering the relay coil. Power is switched to the relay coil by the PCM. The error code you are getting says that the PCM is sensing that the circuit to and from the relay coil is incorrect and probably open.

The second section is powering the actual pump That circuit is completed by the relay contacts. Those relay contacts supply 12 volts to the pump through the fuse. From your previous postings I believe that this circuit is OK.

You swapped out the relay so we can assume that the relay is not the problem.

You need to determine which of the above two possibilities is actually failing. I believe that the pump power circuit is OK but you can prove or disprove this by removing the relay and inserting a jumper across the two female contacts in the relay socket that are the relay contacts. These will be diagonal positions in the socket. There are two ways to determine which pair of diagonal pins to use.
1. look on the removed relay. Usually there is a diagram printed on it.
2. With the key turned off remove the fuel pump relay and probe all 4 pins with a meter or test light. Find the one that has +12VDC on it all the time. This is one of the two you need to jumper together. Insert a wire in that socket and into the socket terminal diagonal the always hot one. If the circuit is good, the pump should run continuously. If you can not hear it, remove the gas cap and listen at the fuel fill. You also should be able to start (and drive) the truck with this jumper installed. Remove the jumper after turning off the key. I have used the above method to pump a tank near dry before removing the tank.

If the above worked then you need to concentrate on the PCM to relay coil circuit which is what the error code is calling out.

Remote diagnosis is a bear, but I hope the above helps you.
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