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Help achieving a tire/wheel look (picture attached)

1061 Views 17 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  BoaterZ71
So the reason I got my Colorado was this picture of this Ranger. Long story short Ford want $5k market adjustment over MSRP and Chevy went $4k under for my Z71... so yea easy choice.

Regardless, picture:


The truck is just leveled, I put a Eibach Stage 1 kit and a 1" block in the rear so I'm right on par or even a little higher there.

So at this point I just need to figure out wheels and tires... right? Essentially, from the looking around I've been doing I need get wheels with the offset that'll allow them to sit a little wider than the body and beefy tires. Only other detail I know is that the tires on the ranger BFG KM3's. My Z71 midnight has Wrangler Duratrac's which are pretty beefy so I wouldn't be opposed to sticking with them but not necessary.

Lastly, I did order Bora spacers to see how it looks but I'm honestly not too keen on using spacer too long term...

Thanks all! P.S. if the photo of a Ranger bothers you my bad lol
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I am not sure why everyone wants their tires to stick out from the body now but I would not and it might not be legal in a particular state. There are some nice wheel flare kits that would cover the tires.
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the truck is not "just leveled" it is raised and leveled since I take it it is now leveled after you raised the front to match the back in which you raised it up an inch.

I wonder if these are 16inch wheels on the ranger or is he running 35's as per BFG the widest that would fit your truck is 9 inches and those on the ranger look wider. the more off-set on the wheels the less diameter you can run
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So the reason I got my Colorado was this picture of this Ranger. Long story short Ford want $5k market adjustment over MSRP and Chevy went $4k under for my Z71... so yea easy choice.

Regardless, picture:
View attachment 447330

The truck is just leveled, I put a Eibach Stage 1 kit and a 1" block in the rear so I'm right on par or even a little higher there.

So at this point I just need to figure out wheels and tires... right? Essentially, from the looking around I've been doing I need get wheels with the offset that'll allow them to sit a little wider than the body and beefy tires. Only other detail I know is that the tires on the ranger BFG KM3's. My Z71 midnight has Wrangler Duratrac's which are pretty beefy so I wouldn't be opposed to sticking with them but not necessary.

Lastly, I did order Bora spacers to see how it looks but I'm honestly not too keen on using spacer too long term...

Thanks all! P.S. if the photo of a Ranger bothers you my bad lol
I'm not a huge fan of wheels sticking out past fender flares, and it might get in you in trouble depending on what state you live in, but your truck and your life !

Method 701 wheels have 0 offset and will push the wheel out ~1.5" or so. The more you change your scrub radius, the more cutting/modification you'll need to do.

There's nothing particularly wrong with running hubcentric spacers like Bora, but they are an obligation and you must re-torque them periodically.
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You could use the spacers to check the room you would have once going to a more aggressive wheel and decide on a tire size from there with some eyeballing and measuring.
If the spacers are 1.25", it would equal a +1mm wheel offset, a 1.5" spacer would equate to -6mm offset or so using the same wheel width.
Can't comment on what will fit on the Z71s myself, but common for people to cut the waffles and/or pinch welds to gain a bit without crazy cutting
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On stock wheels, you will get a more flush look with a 1.25-1.5" wheel spacer. So, you'd really want something a little bigger (less effective offset), like a 2" spacer (~ -17mm offset) to achieve that look. Eventually, you can bump up the tire width to a 33x12.50 for the final touch. Keep in mind, the wider you go (less effective offset and tire), the more "scrub radius" you introduce. That means trimming and cutting for clearance. There are a lot of pics and write-ups for both wheel spacers and trimming, so do your research to educate yourself in that area.

Also, there is nothing wrong with running wheel spacers. You will come across a lot of naysayers who have never used them, and "prefer" to never use them. But the reality is that they perform the same as a wider axle or lower offset wheel. It's just bolt-on vs built in width. Retorque them during every tire rotation and you will never have an issue.
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Be prepared to dish out that $4k you just saved if you want this look. And I agree with others - for the sake of everyone's windshields - use flares and flaps.
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Jerry is correct. At least here in PA, tire tread (specifically the tread...not sidewall) can not stick out past the fender. Most inspection shops let it go unless it's a massive poke, but technically, any ammount of poke is illegal.
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OP, this is how I ran mine for a couple years. ZR2 with stock wheels, 1.25" spacers and no flares. Basically 3" wider per side than a stock Z71.

No one here is funding your build, so take their comments with a grain of salt. Build your truck your way and enjoy it how you please.

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At least here in PA,
What part of Pa are you from?
Did you get your lowering kit installed yet?
Check out the gallery at Custom Offset's website. They have pictures of vehicles and the tire/wheel combo as well as suspension and trimming they used to achieve the look.
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You'll need to trim and do the fender liner relocation mod (or buy the brackets from Coloradoenthusiasts) to fit 33's with Eibach stage 1, and you will probably still have rubbing at full lock. As for wheels, 0 offset will give you the perfect amount of poke (imo) without having to resort to spacers, nothing against spacers personally tho.
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Okay, i saaw a colorado with 15 off-set fuel wheels with 265/65/17 Kendra RT's, he did not trim the pinch weld and says he has slight rubing on the waffle when he turns into his driveway..I could see where it was rubbing
so with your lift and triming the pinch weld and doing a waffle reloaction or trimming you should be able to run a 265/70/17 with that same wheel with the Kendra RT's, it looked good

not sure if the Kendra's run wider but they looked wider then my dura-tracs did
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THANKS EVERYONE! A couple things I'd like to clarify;
when I said "I need get wheels with the offset that'll allow them to sit a little wider than the body and beefy tires" I really just meant ever-so-slightly. Nothing crazy at all, if anything closer to flush with the fenders.

I am aware of certain states having laws about this; if I were to have something the extended beyond that body that much I would absolutely get fender flares or mud flaps for the respect to others on the road, the law I'm not all too worried about... This is America right (/s).

Again, thanks everyone for the help. I'm doing to see how the spacers have it sitting and go from there. As @ARCowboy said, I'll be sure to re-torque them periodically. Would every rotation be frequent enough?

Happy Memorial Day weekend everyone, have fun and be safe!
THANKS EVERYONE! A couple things I'd like to clarify;
when I said "I need get wheels with the offset that'll allow them to sit a little wider than the body and beefy tires" I really just meant ever-so-slightly. Nothing crazy at all, if anything closer to flush with the fenders.

I am aware of certain states having laws about this; if I were to have something the extended beyond that body that much I would absolutely get fender flares or mud flaps for the respect to others on the road, the law I'm not all too worried about... This is America right (/s).

Again, thanks everyone for the help. I'm doing to see how the spacers have it sitting and go from there. As @ARCowboy said, I'll be sure to re-torque them periodically. Would every rotation be frequent enough?

Happy Memorial Day weekend everyone, have fun and be safe!
For spacers, I recommend you install them very carefully and ensure you cut down the stock studs appropriately.

Drive a few miles around the block being sensitive to any wobbles. If all is well, retorque them.

Drive 100mi, check torque.

Drive 1000mi, check torque.

And then yes, every 5-7k miles or whatever your rotation schedule is will be fine. It's the initial torqueing, of both the spacers and your wheels to the spacers that is important as they'll nestle into the hubs and the new lugs may stretch a bit.

There's a video floating around of a full size truck losing an entire wheel on the highway which freaking decimates a Kia soul or scion box car, then rolls back to hit them again. The description says everyone was fine, but it's a good lesson and I'd bet that was cheap spacers and/or improperly installed/retorqued
One thing that is a mild pet peeve of mine is spacers as people call everything a spacer... a wheel spacer is a plate that the studs pass through and you bolt the wheel to the same studs that clamp the spacer. The bolt on one's are technically adapters. Both are safe and fine. Just mildly annoying when reading until you see pictures. :LOL:
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Better than losing $5k on the Ranger as soon as I drove it off the lot! Then another $4k on top of that to achieve a look.
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the truck is not "just leveled" it is raised and leveled since I take it it is now leveled after you raised the front to match the back in which you raised it up an inch.

I wonder if these are 16inch wheels on the ranger or is he running 35's as per BFG the widest that would fit your truck is 9 inches and those on the ranger look wider. the more off-set on the wheels the less diameter you can run
What I meant there is, the Ranger just has a level, mine is raised and leveled.
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