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@GeneP has a catch can.

While some credit can assumed to be because of the the Elite Catch Can installation, I also run the Trifecta Advantage Tune along with top tier mid grade fuel, quality Mobil 1 extended oil and have never missed a 5K oil change. All of these might also be a contributing factor. And 90% of those 125K miles is all open interstate 70 - 80 MPH up & down mountains (Hills actually). The catch can is pretty full at 2,500 miles and is emptied. In the winter months oil drained from the catch can is nasty white due to cold air causing water to condense in the can while nothing bad is seen during warmer months. I was horrified 1st time I drained it during the winter.
 

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BMW had a whole "procedure" for cleaning the valves. Seems the BMW owners should get good old fashioned ******* catch cans :laugh:
 
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BMW had a whole "procedure" for cleaning the valves. Seems the BMW owners should get good old fashioned ******* catch cans :laugh:

yep, if it stops the oil it would save a lot of cash and trouble of having to clean the valves. I would put it on any GDI engine. Actually, any engine you want to keep clean.
 
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All done with my intake valve cleaning & plug replacement project. 1st, I take back my previous statement about performance loss, Holy Crap! As soon as I pulled out of my driveway immediately noted was the performace increase. My loss of performance over the last 100k miles musta just been so gradual I never noticed it. Anyhow, the job wasn't that bad once into it. A good afternoon it can be done with a little patience. I basically used just carb cleaner on small cut pieces of rags with large hemostats that disolved the carbon with patience. One note, on some you tube vids some folks use those metal harbor freight brushes. DO NOT USE THEM. I 1st tried them which left metal bristles in the port. Not good. The remaining was done with the carb cleaner, a vacuum rigged to a small hose & compressed air. Rotate the engine to close the valves on the cylinder your working on. Have fun. Its worth the effort.
 

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All done with my intake valve cleaning & plug replacement project. 1st, I take back my previous statement about performance loss, Holy Crap! As soon as I pulled out of my driveway immediately noted was the performace increase. My loss of performance over the last 100k miles musta just been so gradual I never noticed it. Anyhow, the job wasn't that bad once into it. A good afternoon it can be done with a little patience. I basically used just carb cleaner on small cut pieces of rags with large hemostats that disolved the carbon with patience. One note, on some you tube vids some folks use those metal harbor freight brushes. DO NOT USE THEM. I 1st tried them which left metal bristles in the port. Not good. The remaining was done with the carb cleaner, a vacuum rigged to a small hose & compressed air. Rotate the engine to close the valves on the cylinder your working on. Have fun. Its worth the effort.
What carb cleaner did you use? How long would you say it took to soften up the carbon? Want to know for when the time comes.

p.s. I guess I was right about the boiling frog. ;) (post #19)
 

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What carb cleaner did you use? How long would you say it took to soften up the carbon? Want to know for when the time comes.

p.s. I guess I was right about the boiling frog. ;) (post #19)

A Yes regarding your "Boiling Frog" Theory. It was like a new truck or when I 1st tried my Trifecta tune. A big grin ear to ear.


I used regular ol Gumout carb spray cleaner and soaked the rags cut about 2x the size of gun cleaner patches. Stuffed it in with long small screw driver or hemostats and pushed it around the valve soaking the valve. Lots of patches on each valve collecting the grit. Patience, take your time 5 or 10 minutes or so on each. I made a long bent pick to scrape around stubborn spots and very gently around the seat area. A small hose connected to my shop vac to suck out the chunks and quickly dry as shown on the pic of a typical result. It ain't perfect but good enough. Idea was to do this then once back together run a can of CRC Valve Cleaner through it to clean what I missed around the seats, but not sure if I will get to it yet. Hardest part was actually seeing what I was doing in the 2 rear cylinders. I used a cheap $20 borescope connected to my phone that I took photos with. I am really happy with the results so far. 1000 mile road trip planned next week and we'll see how mileage does. Oh, and use a new lower intake gasket (Some on You Tube don't).
 

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I keep reading about how gasoline direct-injection engines have this inherent problem where carbon can collect on the backside of the intake valves and foul things up. I've also seen lots of "solutions" like jerry-rigging the PCV system and various cleaning services that repair shops are hawking. Has anyone here actually had this problem with one of the 2015 and up Colorado or Canyons? I've had a Z71 with the 3.6 V6 since September with no mechanical issues at all. In fact, the engine and transmission just seem to be getting better the more miles I put on them. I'm thinking the carbon-deposit thing might be more of a solution in search of a problem than anything else.
2016 @ 40k installed a catch can after CRC intake valve treatment. Now have to look at tach to see if engine is running. A lot of smoke cake out the rear. A must do and will repeat yearly.
 

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Mines an '18 so hopefully wont have to do this or as much. I got a can of gumout regane direct injection spray for cheap.

I'll stick my scope down the intake and just see whats going on.
 

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After reading about DGI & carbon buildup I treated my 2016 LFX v6 40k with CRC valve & intake cleaner & was surprised the smoke that came out the rear.The truck ran so much smother with more responsiveness . I didn't realize how engine was slowing down. MPG went up by 1. I then installed a catch can ( inline with the pcv hose under the engine cover. There is actually no pcv valve ) and it does collect a dirty oil residue. Have'nt seen winter operations yet for any condensation buildup. I feel it is a must because why would GM baffle the engines internally on the newer LGZ engines.
 

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All done with my intake valve cleaning & plug replacement project. 1st, I take back my previous statement about performance loss, Holy Crap! As soon as I pulled out of my driveway immediately noted was the performace increase. My loss of performance over the last 100k miles musta just been so gradual I never noticed it. Anyhow, the job wasn't that bad once into it. A good afternoon it can be done with a little patience. I basically used just carb cleaner on small cut pieces of rags with large hemostats that disolved the carbon with patience. One note, on some you tube vids some folks use those metal harbor freight brushes. DO NOT USE THEM. I 1st tried them which left metal bristles in the port. Not good. The remaining was done with the carb cleaner, a vacuum rigged to a small hose & compressed air. Rotate the engine to close the valves on the cylinder your working on. Have fun. Its worth the effort.
What did you do to rotate the engine?

I planned to attempt this procedure almost exactly how you described before even seeing your post, so that makes me more comfortable.
 

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What did you do to rotate the engine?

I planned to attempt this procedure almost exactly how you described before even seeing your post, so that makes me more comfortable.
Normally you use a long 1/2 drive ratchet with a socket to fit the center bolt on the crank pulley.
 
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So after 71.5k miles on my 2016 v6, safe to say I'm looking into catch cans. It was tough to get pictures of every cylinder's valves but they weren't great... I was starting to get knock, specially on hotter days.

I've done oil changes myself every 5k miles or so with Pennzoil Platinum, top tier mid grade or better every tank, air filters every 20k miles or so and did a severe schedule maintenance at 45k for most fluids.
The amount of build up is not great. It's also a pain in the butt to actually work up under the hood on the truck.

New plugs are in, cleaned the valves as much as I could with the CRC GDI cleaner, a copper gun cleaning brush with rags, vacuum and compressed air blower. Came out as well as I could hope without actually media blasting.

Will be doing the CRC GDI can instructions in the following weeks along with an oil change after and looking into catch can install. The amount of work involved on this hot weekend, I don't really want to do again.

There was also a literal puddle of oil right past the throttle body....

378051
378052
 

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If you are interested in a used RED anodized catch can, just saw a member this morning has one for sale, might make him an offer. Been for sale for 5 months.

 
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If it shows up it's going to show up as a long term problem (ie if you lease your truck or cycle through vehicles every few years, it probably won't matter to you). I don't know that there are enough people still with significant mileage on these trucks (80-100k+) who haven't been running catch cans and have actually removed their intake manifolds to document. I think we also get in a bit of an echo chamber here on this forum, a lot of people who could have carbon related issues may not be frequenting the forums.

In less than 20,000 miles I've collected over a full pasta sauce jar and a half full of oil / vapor residue that would have ended up in my intake. There's no debate to that. Having seen a number of documented engine tear downs of GM engines where people let this go, it was cheap insurance to me to install a catch can.
 

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I keep reading about how gasoline direct-injection engines have this inherent problem where carbon can collect on the backside of the intake valves and foul things up. I've also seen lots of "solutions" like jerry-rigging the PCV system and various cleaning services that repair shops are hawking. Has anyone here actually had this problem with one of the 2015 and up Colorado or Canyons? I've had a Z71 with the 3.6 V6 since September with no mechanical issues at all. In fact, the engine and transmission just seem to be getting better the more miles I put on them. I'm thinking the carbon-deposit thing might be more of a solution in search of a problem than anything else.
Last sentence hits it on the head, in my opinion. Maintain her carefully, watch her, drive her and be happy my friend. I do not install PCV catch cans on my vehicles.
 

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Grave digger!!
 
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Last sentence hits it on the head, in my opinion. Maintain her carefully, watch her, drive her and be happy my friend. I do not install PCV catch cans on my vehicles.
did you read post #204?
 

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Last time I rebuilt an engine I soaked the valves and pistons in the recommended GM Carbon remover for several days, and tried the other well known brands. It had almost zero effect on the built up carbon deposits. Granted that was at room temperature, but I am convinced that the only removal method that actually works is the walnut shell blasting. My brother has had that done twice on his BMW M3, but I believe as someone stated BMW has or had much more of a problem with it than we have seen. When I had mine open at 20,000 miles it was reasonably clean with no appreciable build up.
 
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