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Installing on a 2018 but I can't get power where they say to, I don't have a stud where the picture shows just an empty hole.

Edit: also got no audio output after hooking it up, not sure why yet. Got lt blue and brown/lt blue wires tapped. It's got power for sure but it's definitely not doing anything.
Just tap power from one of the main trunk lines......the Kicker power is fused so it's not a big deal.
If you checked with a meter you definitely have power to the sub, then you need to recheck your speaker taps......
Yeah I'm an idiot the little spade connector slid on the outside of the scotch lock. I was just getting frustrated since it was over 100 degrees in the garage
 

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Yeah I'm an idiot the little spade connector slid on the outside of the scotch lock. I was just getting frustrated since it was over 100 degrees in the garage
I had that happen on my install and scratched my head all day and went back and forth with kicker support
 

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Yeah I'm an idiot the little spade connector slid on the outside of the scotch lock. I was just getting frustrated since it was over 100 degrees in the garage
I had that happen on my install and scratched my head all day and went back and forth with kicker support
The locks are great till they don’t work.
Yeah I should know better, I used to deal with them all the time. But I had a brief moment where I decided to recheck once more before calling kicker then I found it.

However I am incredibly happy with the system now. It sounds much better, it filled in the emptyness that I had with the stock system. Still wish the highs were a little clearer but oh well.
 

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Yeah I'm an idiot the little spade connector slid on the outside of the scotch lock. I was just getting frustrated since it was over 100 degrees in the garage
Chit happens......glad you got it figured out and working.

I'm quite happy with the Kicker VSS setup and it adds some very nice depth to the Bose system, plus it hides away nice.
No complaints from me other than the price is a bit steep IMHO.
 

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2 Questions. How do you know if it is working or not? Due to a daycare run I had to run harness and install speaker now going back in to connect power under dash and don’t want to remove rear seat again to check with volt meter.

Second question could some of you audiophiles post up your tone settings.
 

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Never mined on the first question. Once I put the fuse in I could hear the difference. Would still like to try a few of your tone settings.
 

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If I read everything right, this Kicker kit is just for the Crew Cab. Probably a longshot given the space (or lack thereof), but do they make a similar kit for an Extended Cab?
 

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If I read everything right, this Kicker kit is just for the Crew Cab. Probably a longshot given the space (or lack thereof), but do they make a similar kit for an Extended Cab?
Not that I’ve seen. And I really don’t think there is enough space. There are slim subs and sub/amp combos you can fit under the front seats (I think, I don’t personally have one). They are not specific to the Colorado though
 
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Going with specs on measurements I couldnt find a decent one that fit under seat comfortably in my 18 EC.....so went this route. Also a couple tweeters in rear doors added enough rear prescence without having harsh soun to forgive fact of lack of sound coming from rear because speakers are so low.
 

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Sorry bumping this one back up. So I ordered a 2019 LT CC and noticed on the build site that the kicker does not show up anymore as an option. Have not received the truck yet but does anyone know if this sub will still work on the new model year? Having some doubts as well for compatibility. Seems the tone is at issue. With some earlier posts mentioning to reduce the bass considerably on the HU to balance it out. But this IMO will create another set of issues with the other radiators. I think somebody said there is no gain control on the sub so one has to EQ everything B4 it arrives at the sub. I know I did this on a honda once with a custom box with two 8" subs and it had a crossover coil on it. So basically it just did the lower frequencies. I think it was a 100 HZ crossover. Maybe the bose system will be enough. Are those in the doors really 6X9 ? That's crazy if they are. Have not had those since my 1985 VW GTI. That was the thing back then.

I guess what I'm really asking is there a way to do this properly where everything would sound good with a neutral tone on the HU with a more flat response? I'm thinking we are dealing with two setups here. The Bose with its own amp and the Kicker which is a accessory which Bose probably never planned on. Well, I'm rambling now. Any thoughts on this accessory and if anyone ever regretted putting it in? If I do it, it will be just the 200 watt sub.
 

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I put it in my 2018. Build date 5/18. Non Bose.

It is definitely not plug and play.

First issue is there are no extra bolts for power. Meaning you need to take it all apart to add more, or just do what I did and hook it directly to the battery.

Second issue is the chime gets really distorted on startup. Something wrong with the amp. Maybe moving the power source away from the battery will help but I doubt it. After that it’s fine though.

Third issue is mounting the amp will not work. The plastic hole near the fan has a preinstalled metal insert. Likely for the Bose amp. It’s a much smaller size. You will need to remove that which will be a pain. Honestly removing the cover, fan, etc entirely is the safest approach. Orrr just find something that miraculously fits.


Some other tips and notes.

Route the power through the hood latch. They are small enough and you can avoid cutting.

Remove the entire panel beneath the driver side dash. Your life will be easier.

Hand tight the plastic cover below the back seats. They break easily. If they do break just super glue them on again. They don’t need to hold much. Use your hand and a small socket wrench. Do not use a drill.

The amp doesn’t really improve the speakers much. The front 6x9s drone a bit less but it’s still not good. Things like a bassist sound like crap. Adding dynamat to the doors will make things much better than replacing the speakers.

Consider cutting some of the plastic cover below the rear seats and putting in a rubber grommet. Otherwise the plastic may rub the wires till they short.
 

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Snipesy, what do you mean there is no extra bolts for power and you have to take apart... etc?

I’m trying to keep up but are you talking about the factory subwoofer option?
 

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Snipesy, what do you mean there is no extra bolts for power and you have to take apart... etc?

I’m trying to keep up but are you talking about the factory subwoofer option?
The factory sub for non Bose. It comes with an amp. No tapping.

You’re suppose to get power from the spare spots next to the fuse box. But it’s missing the bolt to do that. If you look at the instructions there are 4 bolts but on mine and I’m guessing anything later than mine does not have those. To add your own you have to remove some plastic and I have no idea what the sizes are.
 

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Ah. Ok. Sorry. I was trying to keep up there.
 

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I'm really interested in the 2017 COLORADO CREW CAB AUDIO UPGRADE, KICKER SUBWOOFER KIT Part # 19333508.

This is the lower price one that will work with (according to the site) both Bose and non Bose systems.

From the site: Colorado Audio Upgrade, Kicker Powered Subwoofer Kit, CREW CAB ONLY, Compatible w/All Colorado Radios

Now onto my question: The site (ShopChevyParts) states:

- 200-watt powered Kicker 8in subwoofer with quick-connect wire harness to easily secure or remove when needing more cargo room

- Plug and play, no wire cutting or vehicle modifications


So, is there a quick connect harness already located under the rear seat for this? plug and play, to me, means plug and play.

Anyone installed this particular item? Where does the harness connect?

*** Update, found this thread, which I ask some questions there: https://www.coloradofans.com/forums/265-2nd-gen-colorado-canyon-builds/383641-2018-z71-kicker-amp-install.html
 
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