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Front wheel bearing replacement cost.

13K views 12 replies 9 participants last post by  Tom S. 
#1 ·
2007 Colorado LS (rear two wheel drive, standard cab).
Had rear shocks put on today...they told me that both my front wheel bearings are going bad, need to replace. However, they told me that it will cost me $340.00 per wheel installed. WoW! I can get a front bearing w/that ABS stuff for about $65 each on ebay. Is $275 for labor cost way too high? Why should it cost that much?
 
#2 ·
How did they know a wheel bearing was going bad? ABS code/funny noises reported from you? I am not familiar with the 1st gen bearings, but are they a hub or do can you replace just the bearing? $65 sounds like a cheap Chinese bearing. Honestly, if they are using an OEM bearing or a quality replacement, $340 sound just about right. It cost that much because of how much time it takes to change. The whole knuckle has to come off if its a press in bearing. Couple of hours for me, but I'm not a pro. If its a hub, then they typically cost more than a press in bearing and they are faster to install (usually). Price still sounds about right.
 
#4 ·
I actually just posted a write up on replacing chevy colorado / GMC Canyon the wheel bearings. If you opted to do it yourself and you have some mechanical skills it isn't too bad. I have a video in the write-up that explains how to check for a bad wheel bearing as well if you wanted to verify what your mechanic is telling you.

As far as labor I don't think $340 per side is crazy as stated above. It's probably going to be about an average cost. I bet they are figuring about 2-3 hours per side.
 
#5 ·
Labor in my neck of the woods is around $120 an hour. That's not what the mechanic gets (probably closer to $30 an hour including any benefits), but buildings and staff cost money, hence the $120. As pointed out, if you have tools, a place to work and mechanical ability, replacing wheel bearings is not rocket science and very doable. Buy the best wheel bearings you can, don't cheap out or fall for the cheap ones with "lifetime" warranties. Parts manufacturers know the average person replacing a wheel bearing will most likely get rid of the vehicle within the 40-50K miles and henceforth aren't worried about them coming back to use the warranty. Plus often that "Lifetime" warranty is for that part only, and the part that replaces it may have no warranty at all. On top of all that, if you use a better brand bearing, you won't have do the labor twice. Even if I was going to sell the truck next week, I'd buy the best wheel bearings, but that's how I was raised, and when I sell a used vehicle, there are people waiting because they know how I maintain my things.

Replacing the bearings yourself (I look at bearings the same way I do breaks - never do just one side) also gives you the chance to examine the brakes, ball joints and tie rods for wear and possible needed maintenance. While any good shop will do the same, many will try to sell you on repairs not needed.
 
#6 ·
I know im late here. You could, in theory, do the hubs yourself like I did. The rotors are behind the hubs, and the hubs take some time to get off. If I remember right, there's 4 large bolts with something like a 19mm 6 point. The rotors are held on behind the hubs, with six 17mm head bolts.
Metric shallow well and deep well 1/2" drive sockets (6pt) are necessary. PB Blaster, a breaker bar, a mini sledge, etc would help a lot.
 
#7 · (Edited)
#8 ·
You MUST replace both sides AT THE SAME TIME WITH THE SAME BRAND if the hubs have the ABS built in. If you dont your ABS system will get different signals from each side and it will try to help you brake accordingly, on top of freaking out with lights and chimes. Then the ABS system will just shut down. Everyone is correct when suggesting not going cheap. Wether you DIY or pay someone to do it, you will not want to do it a second time. I went cheap at first. Moog hub from amazon warehouse, Great deal. Big mistake! It was a used hub already grinding, thats when I found I would need both front hubs at the same time anyway. The gap between the built in sensor and the axle needs to be exactly the same when you reconnect your battery.
 
#10 ·
I agree with you. Brand has nothing to do with it.
 
#11 ·
On my 2011 I replaced the drivers side HUB at 35,000 miles and sold my truck with 150,000 miles with the passenger side still being the original
at the time the 355 guys said the drivers side was known to go bad early an no need too change the passenger..

on a 2007 I would be more concerned about tie rods and other linkage being worn before the wheel bearinngs
 
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#13 ·
Having one go bad that early is a sign that it was either bad from the beginning or there was a design flaw. In either case, it's not normal but I suspect it was a bad bearing. A bad suspension design would have worn out the replacement bearing just as fast and a bad bearing design would have caused both sides to wear out in about the same time. When GM changed to sealed bearings, it was very common to have to replace them between 65k and 100k. Now days, they seem to last longer, most lasting well past the 100k mark. I believe the problem may have been lube related but I'm not an expert and have no proof.
 
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