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I tried doing a search for "factory subwoofer" and did not have any luck. I hope I am not repeating a previous question I couldn't find.

I'm trying to get the best bang for the buck (but not trying to go "cheap") to improve my sound quality in my non-Bose '18 crew cab. I did see where Chevy offers a factory subwoofer that goes under the back seat. Is this just plug and play?

Also, my thoughts are to get the factory subwoofer and perhaps replaces the 6 other speakers with those of a little better quality. Is this my best bet or is there a better direction I can go?

Thanks for your responses.
 

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I have the bose system and added the subwoofer - it is plug and play and it is ok - it will shake the mirrors nicely
For the non bose guys they have the same subwoofer plus another amp to boost that system , it is pricey though at about $1200
 

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You will get a ton of different opinions here.

Yes plug and play.

I too did add the factory sub and if fills in the missing sound of the Bose. No it will it piss of the neighbors and there are better systems out there but for my needs I love it.

yes it shakes the mirrors.

The quality of the recording is very noticeable. That is a mark of a decent system. I do with it had an equalizer.
I am happy and would buy it again.
 

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I have the bose system and added the subwoofer - it is plug and play and it is ok - it will shake the mirrors nicely
For the non bose guys they have the same subwoofer plus another amp to boost that system , it is pricey though at about $1200
Do you have a part number or a link you can share for the pnp bose woofer? I have a 2019 Canyon, with bose speakers, and would like to add a sub.
 

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Do you have a part number or a link you can share for the pnp bose woofer? I have a 2019 Canyon, with bose speakers, and would like to add a sub.
 

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I did the kicker upgrade with the latest version SCOCRE19. It looks like it was updated for 2019/2020.

https://www.vehicleaccessorycenter.com/inc/files/editor/files/GMC - Kicker Audio Upgrade Product Summary.pdf

I wanted something that has a factory look and easy to install. It took an hour and a half to install and the instructions were easy to follow, but I sent the power cable through the hood cable grommet instead of the steering grommet.

It won't win any awards for sound quality and it won't shake the whole neighborhood, but I think it sounds good. It fills in the missing lows and it sounds like what I would expect from a premium factory system.
 

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Both of those links seem to indicate that the factory subwoofer upgrade is only for the Crew Cab (I guess b/c it fits under the rear seats). Does anyone know if that's true? I have the extended cab and wanted to do a subwoofer/amp upgrade.
 

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Both of those links seem to indicate that the factory subwoofer upgrade is only for the Crew Cab (I guess b/c it fits under the rear seats). Does anyone know if that's true? I have the extended cab and wanted to do a subwoofer/amp upgrade.
Crutchfield sells the JL Stealthbox for the crew cab for $879. That is the box and the 10" subwoofer. You would also need an amp for it though. It would sound fantastic. I think those Kicker upgrades from Chevy are around $1k.
 

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Yes but I have the extended cab, not the crew cab. Will it work for that? Also, wondering about the installation, does it require removing the radio, cutting/splicing wires, etc.?
 

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OK, I see that they do make a Stealthbox for the Extended cab. Just wondering about the complexity of installation.
 

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Crutchfield sells the JL Stealthbox for the crew cab for $879. That is the box and the 10" subwoofer. You would also need an amp for it though. It would sound fantastic. I think those Kicker upgrades from Chevy are around $1k.
Agree a much better route than the Kicker.
 

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Check out the new ProFit Sub Enclosure for 2nd Generation Colorados/Canyons. $449.99 with Promo Code PF15CHECOLD65P (Colorado) and PF15GMCCAND65P.


 

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I tried doing a search for "factory subwoofer" and did not have any luck. I hope I am not repeating a previous question I couldn't find.

I'm trying to get the best bang for the buck (but not trying to go "cheap") to improve my sound quality in my non-Bose '18 crew cab. I did see where Chevy offers a factory sub-woofer that goes under the back seat. Is this just plug and play?

Also, my thoughts are to get the factory subwoofer and perhaps replaces the 6 other speakers with those of a little better quality. Is this my best bet or is there a better direction I can go?

Thanks for your responses.
Just saw your post today. Not sure if you got it figured out yet. I did the same upgrade. 2020 Colorado WT extended cab non Bose model. Got new front and rear door speakers from Crutchfield. Also got an 8 inch powered compact sub-woofer from Amazon for under $100. It is amazing the sound transformation. I can shake the mirrors, but more than that, the sound quality is miles ahead. I was really surprised at how cheap the door speakers were compared to the replacements I used. There were like cheap thin paper!! The only difficulty was just exposing the speaker leads for the subs. After reading some posts, it was actually pretty easy. I just tapped into the left front door lead under the drivers side emergency brake. Super easy to run the sub-woofer wires to the back and picked up power under the hood from the battery. The compact sub fit under the back seat in the compartment there. I did use a dremel and remove some plastic under there just for some extra room. Overall an extremely worthwhile upgrade!!
 

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Thanks for the info Koop. Just had a couple questions. Did you have to remove the entire door panels for changing out the speakers, and did you have to pull out the head unit to run the wires for the sub? Since mine is a lease, I'm rather hesitant to do any major dismantling.
 

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Yes you will have to take door panels off all the way. There are a ton of videos on how to. I was a newbie with that part, but with a couple good pry-bars and you tube videos you can do that part pretty easily!! All you need for the wiring is to find the left front door speaker wires and tap into the +/- wires(+ wire is light blue and - wire is brown/light blue stripe I believe
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) and run them to the back under the door sill. Mine were taped up together immediately on top of the emergency brake assembly under driver side dash on the left if you are sitting in the truck! Just carefully cut the electrical tape and look for the wire colors! You don't have to do anything in the dash. All of the other wiring is done at the sub-woofer. You will need one power cable from the sub-woofer to the battery. I ran that underneath the sill trim and then came through the firewall to under the hood. You need a cheap line converter from amazon(I got this one... Amazon.com: PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter: Car Electronics ) and your speaker +/- wires will connect to them and convert your signal to RCA jacks to go into sub-woofer. Really not bad.
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I also was looking for a sub box for my extended cab and this is the only box I've found so far.


You would then have to buy your own amp and sub.
That is a really cool option. I didn't know that they made that type of box. Very cool custom look!! Not sure if I need that much...that little 8 inch subcompact I installed is amazingly good. It will shake the mirrors a little bit. For me, it adds enough bass to fill in what is missing in the factory setup. I was also pleasantly surprised that my door speakers upgrade made a huge difference in sound. The factory head unit works pretty good. It just sucks that it is almost impossible to replace factory setup without doing some major installation work!!
 

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Thanks for the pics and detailed explanation Koop. Does your subwoofer fit all the way down into the compartment or does it stick part way out as shown in your picture?
Also wondering if you ran into the problem as discussed in this video:
and if it would be possible to replace the speaker by just pulling off the bottom and middle retainer clips and not the whole door panel?
 

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No the sub slides all the way into the pocket. I did use a dremel to cut away some plastic for a better fit. You will never see the missing plastic because it is under the seat! As far as door removal, I wanted to do it the same way, but I couldn't get it out of the way enough. It will swing way up in the air, maybe if you had someone holding it up for you?? I did the job solo! The top part at the window that he had trouble with was no problem for me. I think he over exaggerated how hard it was! The panel will be really loose after all the beginning steps, so I just grabbed it and pushed it upwards and out and it popped right off (watch the video I linked for you below). I did grab a few extra clips ( Amazon.com: Interior Trim Clips GM Moulding Fastener 15748479 1/2" X 5/8" for 1994-2017 GM Cars & Trucks MOTOALL 25 PCS: Automotive and these Amazon.com: GOOACC 25 Front Door Trim Panel Retainers Clips Replaces for GM 10153057 Chevy Buick GMC Jimmy Pontiac Grand Prix 8mm Hole - 25pcs: Automotive ) the metal ones are exactly the same, the plastic ones aren't exact replicas, but they worked fine. I broke or bent a couple, that would have probably gone back in, but I wanted a tight hold!! I just ordered some cheap plastic pry bars from Amazon and they worked great to remove everything!! I used this video as a guide for door panel removal...even though it was a mirror replacement job!! (
) And I bought this cheap set of pry bars on Amazon for under $9 and they were very sturdy!! ( Amazon.com: GLK Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit Door Clip Panel Removal Tool Set Car Pry Tool with Fastener Remover for Car Dash Radio Audio Installer Pry Tool 9PCS: Automotive )
I really think you should go for it. The sound improvement you will gain is amazing. Between the bass and better speakers, the factory unit will sound amazing. I hadn't done a big sound system since I was in my 20's and now 30 years later...it reminds me of my 3 amp with electronic crossover system from years back sound quality wise!! Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions!!
 
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