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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
What a great find, and excellent schematic, so thanks for sharing this.
I see your two 12v outlets there as well, so want to ask where you sourced the 12v for those and the switch. Also, how much current will that 12v source support?
Like Yooper, I'm waiting for my diesel to be built, and having fun planning the improvements.
Thank you. I am having fun myself. I like a clean install and everything I do takes time but in the end looks factory (almost....).

The 12VDC source came from the 12VDC supply to the trailer wiring harness, which comes from the Trailer Module above the spare tire. The line is rated for 30A, but reality is that the 12VDC outlets I connected to a 15A fuse. My LED bed lights pull a whopping 1A so even thought it is a bit overkill, I have room for any growth and protection from shorts and stupidity.

I tapped off the ground at the Trailer wiring harness too (both connections are from behind the bumper), placed in split loom and sealed with GOOD 3M vinyl black tape (not that cheap Harbor Freight crapola). The 3M stuff is soooo good and seals so well. Worth the $5 a roll price. I ran the loom along the rest of the harnesses there until the left quarter panel, where I then followed the LR brake light harness. Everything zip tied for clean and secure install. Once i diverge from that harness and run up to the front of the stake pocket, I placed some loom over the entrance to the bed (picture attached) and used adhesive to hold it in place. The loom is double protected then, and this is where the wiring for the bed lights and 12VDC service outlets are connected to those items. The switch you can see in the diagram, and it runs in that pre cut hole into the stake pocket and then out the back of the stake pocket and down right behind the LR brake light harness and joins at the location of the GM connection for cargo lamps. Everything looks good and is sturdy. I am happy.
 

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Thank you. I am having fun myself. I like a clean install and everything I do takes time but in the end looks factory (almost....).
I could tell you were a perfectionist from the start. We have a lot in common, as I won't do a vehicle wiring project without similar goals.
I'm really dating myself here, but way back in the 60's I was an Air Force electronics technician, briefly working on B52 ECM gear, then finished out my 4 years working on more modern ECM gear (for the era, of course) in the F4. The maintenance standards on military aircraft was unparalleled, and it's stayed with me my whole life when I tackle much more modest, hobby-like projects.
Thanks again for the pioneering work.
 

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This thread has me wondering if I am going to want to do something similar if I put a cover on my truck bed.
 

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I could tell you were a perfectionist from the start. We have a lot in common, as I won't do a vehicle wiring project without similar goals.
I'm really dating myself here, but way back in the 60's I was an Air Force electronics technician, briefly working on B52 ECM gear, then finished out my 4 years working on more modern ECM gear (for the era, of course) in the F4. The maintenance standards on military aircraft was unparalleled, and it's stayed with me my whole life when I tackle much more modest, hobby-like projects.
Thanks again for the pioneering work.
Retired MM3 tech here....the only thing I would do differently would be to use a minimal amount of tape and heat shrink over the splices to keep the weather off.....tape exposed to any moisture melts over time.
 

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Retired MM3 tech here....the only thing I would do differently would be to use a minimal amount of tape and heat shrink over the splices to keep the weather off.....tape exposed to any moisture melts over time.
I couldn't agree more about heat shrink, and always keep a range of sizes in my electrical parts storage containers. In addition to keeping the weather out, I like that it adds additional security to the connection.
You've got to help me on the MM3 specialty designation. Sorry, it's been too many years, and can't place it now.
 

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I couldn't agree more about heat shrink, and always keep a range of sizes in my electrical parts storage containers. In addition to keeping the weather out, I like that it adds additional security to the connection.
You've got to help me on the MM3 specialty designation. Sorry, it's been too many years, and can't place it now.
USAF Minuteman 3 ICBM Sir.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I could tell you were a perfectionist from the start. We have a lot in common, as I won't do a vehicle wiring project without similar goals.
I'm really dating myself here, but way back in the 60's I was an Air Force electronics technician, briefly working on B52 ECM gear, then finished out my 4 years working on more modern ECM gear (for the era, of course) in the F4. The maintenance standards on military aircraft was unparalleled, and it's stayed with me my whole life when I tackle much more modest, hobby-like projects.
Thanks again for the pioneering work.
Well there ya go. MM1/SS that worked on nuclear power plants. YOu can imagine the strictness of controls and my propensity to be an anal nerd.

Funny how it stays with us for life. But that is a trait I will happily carry.
 

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found a pair of unused wires! Any ideas?

Hi folks: about 8" up under the rear left corner of my truck bed corner, just below the rear left lamp assembly, is a little loom plug that connects to a pair of black and white wires about 5" lomg that are neatly trimmed with about an inch and a half of black heat-shrink or something similar. Any idea what these may be for?
 

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That reminds me that I need to look into lights for my bed before the days start getting shorter. By toolbox blocks a lot of the cargo light's light.
 

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Ahhh . . the monthly "pair of loose wires up near the driver side rear tail light" question.

Yup. . .. for factory bed lights and left sealed over if you do not have that option.
 
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Thanks guys: good to know. Two discreet live wires I assume.
 

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Thanks guys: good to know. Two discreet live wires I assume.

They are 12 volt switched battery from the dash Cargo Light switch and a return ground for those bed light wires below the driver side rear tail light.

Some use the trailer wiring connect 12 volts and a separate switch so you can turn the bed rail lights on without having to turn on the factory Cargo Light switch on the dashboard.
 

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Thanks again: but there is no black; they are both black and white; on another thread (thanks Graniteblue05) someone wrote that one is black with a white stripe and the other is white with a black stripe; really helpful! I'll take a better look with a flashlight next time.
 

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Thanks again: but there is no black; they are both black and white; on another thread (thanks Graniteblue05) someone wrote that one is black with a white stripe and the other is white with a black stripe; really helpful! I'll take a better look with a flashlight next time.
Black with white stripe is Ground.
White with black stripe is 12V+.

It's really not that hard to figure it out when you look at it. The plug can be a little difficult to disconnect, but you slide the tab out then click it, then pull the plug.
 

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No. Black is ground, white is 12V+. Only have power supplied when "Shower in the bed" switch (cargo lamp switch) is on.

I just wired in some LED strips to those wires.
I did the same thing.



A very easy project that took less than an hour and really improved the use of my truck's bed. :grin2:
 
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