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I'm actually relieved to know it wasn't the timing belt. We don't need issues with a soft part like that.
 

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16 Canyon SLT, V6, 4X4, Longbed, Cyber Metallic Gray
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glad they are covering under full warranty.

Still seems odd having no noise, vibration or anything, and coasting easily off the side of the road.
 

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I agree with the guy that said you get to break in a brand new engine with a used car price tag! That's pretty stellar. At this point in the product life cycle, there aren't a ton of major issues with the Duramaxes. There were a few problems early on, but most everything has been resolved at this point inn terms of anything that could possibly be considered "common". One very strong indicator at how very uncommon failure like this is, is the attention this thread has received.

As for sensors throwing codes, there has to be a sensor present to throw a code. Otherwise it's just another machine with moving parts. Can't really put a sensor on every single part. Sometimes you gotta let them speak to you.

I'd definitely be interested to know how the valve failed. Valve failure isn't common on this, or really any engine I'm aware of since maybe the early 70s when Porsche brought out the sodium filled valves, and had some issues very early on.
 

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2017 All Terrain 2.8L CCLB Dark Slate Metallic
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I don't know much about the diesels in these things but I presume they are OHC motors. I would think a broken timing belt would throw an out of phase code for crank position vs cam position, no?
I think it would have logged a code, but throwing a code doesn't necessarily mean instant CEL either. Especially when it shuts down quickly.

EDIT: Here's the DTC I think it would throw if the timing belt slipped or broke, which is type C, so no MIL/CEL
1605239535799.png
 

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Ready for a sad story? I am the 2nd owner of my 2018 Canyon SLT with the Duramax Diesel. I bought it 5 weeks ago from a private owner. Truck had 15k on the odo and I have driven it only 1k since I took ownership.

Yesterday the engine seized up 5 miles from home while towing our 4,000 camper on flat ground. The diagnosis came from my local GMC dealer this morning. I had towed our camper once before on an 80 mile shakedown cruise just to see how it performed. No other issues at all on that little trip or my daily driving. I was traveling @ 65 mph and noticed a loss of power, then a slight shudder before it shut down. There was no advance warning, no smell, noise, vibration. No notification from the DIC of any problem. It just shut down. Now I get to see how the GM warranty works. I assume at 16k there should not be an issue getting this covered? Of course, I am now questioning my purchase and I'm not sure I can ever trust this truck again after this. FWIW, the original owner is a retired person who never towed anything and I know from Carfax that the truck had been well cared for with 2 oil changes before I bought it. This really stinks. Any thoughts/advise/insight is welcome.
we have two of these 2017 canyon and 2018xr2, have towed 6,000BLS over 10k miles with both of them. Last being a 3900 mile trip through Montana, Idaho, South Dakota i to Washington down Oregon coast. Not an issue even with the 80mph speed limits. Although it wouldn’t do 80 very often. I have had a turbo failure on myzr2 and my wife’s truck locked up just like yours it sounds like.
she put 2.5 gallons of DEF INTO fuel tank. I tore it down and cleaned everything and had to replace the fuel pump and have injector pump rebuilt. 2200 miles later motor locked up.
sounds like you may have had same issue and they cleaned it and sold it
 

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Please have them check the main power wire going to the ECM, I have the DuraLax in a ZR2 and the first owner had the same thing happen. Dumbass GM dealer replaced the ECM thinking that was the problem, turns out the wire that feeds the ECM had eroded due to more dumbass GM engineering on the wiring harness that runs under the engine (you'll see a trend) Ran a jumper from the battery straight to the ECM wiring harness and bingo (yes a dealership did this, literally looked like something my 8 year old schemed together). Fast forward a month or so after I brought it home going down highway, shudder, shudder, went dead. Luckily I was about to get off on an off ramp and cruised to a safe stop. Got out popped hood, jiggled the ECM wiring harness and it started again, like nothing happened. Got it to a local shop, they went in and repinned the jumper to the wiring harness, which I am guessing was a half assed job from dealer mentioned above, because it has not failed or even hiccupped since. Again fast forward to spring of this year after having intermittent check engine lights come on and off, it coughed sputtered and died on my wife coming home. She was again able to get it pulled off the road. Tow truck to local GM dealer. Left long hateful note to dealer tech on steering wheel on what my opinion of it was (POS GM engineering) and lack recall on these 2.8 engines. I told him to start working down the wiring harnesses to the trouble codes and that is what he did. Called back a day or two later and said my diagnosis was right on the money, he found 6, yes 6 wires in the wiring harness that had eroded and completed severed on a sharp edge on the frame. He repaired it, made sure it wouldn't happen again. It has been running like a champ ever since. The wiring harness on the Duramax are ****, numerous tech bulletins put out, they know it is an issue, and yet GM wont recall it. I have read where people have paid to have a complete wiring harness replacement vehicle wide to finally fix the problem. I hope this might give you a little insight. The 2.8 Duramax is an awesome engine from my research and has been used overseas for decades in industrial uses and things like delivery trucks. Its a proven platform, but add some GM **** engineering, lackluster design effort and refusal of fixing the problem and you get what you and I just purchased. A what would be reliable little truck, becomes a constant pain in the ass trying to keep ahead of the GM cosmonauts and rocket scientists that would screw up a one car funeral. Good luck !
 

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OP: Timeline for repair is probably accurate, given the TG holiday. Figure 4 days shipping and two days for the swap, then add in weekends, holidays and scheduling and you're right around the end of the month. Since this is a warranty repair, the dealer should be furnishing you a loaner, though you sometimes have to ask. Dropping a valve is rare, but does happen when a retainer breaks. I saw my first one back around 1970 on a 1966 Chevelle with the 396. We had that one cylinder bored and sleeved and replaced the head (actually both heads were replaced with 427 HP heads). That engine went on to live many more years. Dealers don't fix things any more, they replace them, which isn't a bad thing for the end user, but I'd like to get a hold of some of the things they throw out!
 

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OP: Timeline for repair is probably accurate, given the TG holiday. Figure 4 days shipping and two days for the swap, then add in weekends, holidays and scheduling and you're right around the end of the month. Since this is a warranty repair, the dealer should be furnishing you a loaner, though you sometimes have to ask. Dropping a valve is rare, but does happen when a retainer breaks. I saw my first one back around 1970 on a 1966 Chevelle with the 396. We had that one cylinder bored and sleeved and replaced the head (actually both heads were replaced with 427 HP heads). That engine went on to live many more years. Dealers don't fix things any more, they replace them, which isn't a bad thing for the end user, but I'd like to get a hold of some of the things they throw out!
The money is not in it anymore for dealers to rebuild at that level especially under warranty. Not many dealership mechanics that can tear down an engine and rebuild it with any since of confidence for the customer. Much cheaper to swap an entire engine, and issue a brand new warranty with it (great for the customer). Besides, if this is a one-off failure, GM is going to want the engine back for a failure analysis. We may not be able to get them in a Colorado anymore but they'll still be in some model vehicle.
 

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Please have them check the main power wire going to the ECM, I have the DuraLax in a ZR2 and the first owner had the same thing happen. Dumbass GM dealer replaced the ECM thinking that was the problem, turns out the wire that feeds the ECM had eroded due to more dumbass GM engineering on the wiring harness that runs under the engine (you'll see a trend) Ran a jumper from the battery straight to the ECM wiring harness and bingo (yes a dealership did this, literally looked like something my 8 year old schemed together). Fast forward a month or so after I brought it home going down highway, shudder, shudder, went dead. Luckily I was about to get off on an off ramp and cruised to a safe stop. Got out popped hood, jiggled the ECM wiring harness and it started again, like nothing happened. Got it to a local shop, they went in and repinned the jumper to the wiring harness, which I am guessing was a half assed job from dealer mentioned above, because it has not failed or even hiccupped since. Again fast forward to spring of this year after having intermittent check engine lights come on and off, it coughed sputtered and died on my wife coming home. She was again able to get it pulled off the road. Tow truck to local GM dealer. Left long hateful note to dealer tech on steering wheel on what my opinion of it was (POS GM engineering) and lack recall on these 2.8 engines. I told him to start working down the wiring harnesses to the trouble codes and that is what he did. Called back a day or two later and said my diagnosis was right on the money, he found 6, yes 6 wires in the wiring harness that had eroded and completed severed on a sharp edge on the frame. He repaired it, made sure it wouldn't happen again. It has been running like a champ ever since. The wiring harness on the Duramax are *, numerous tech bulletins put out, they know it is an issue, and yet GM wont recall it. I have read where people have paid to have a complete wiring harness replacement vehicle wide to finally fix the problem. I hope this might give you a little insight. The 2.8 Duramax is an awesome engine from my research and has been used overseas for decades in industrial uses and things like delivery trucks. Its a proven platform, but add some GM * engineering, lackluster design effort and refusal of fixing the problem and you get what you and I just purchased. A what would be reliable little truck, becomes a constant pain in the ass trying to keep ahead of the GM cosmonauts and rocket scientists that would screw up a one car funeral. Good luck !
Sorry to take this off topic, but do you have a picture of the particular area you're talking about? I'm having wiring issues with my 2.8 and my Dealership is blaming EVERYTHING except the wiring (they disconnected my GM accessories, light bar, etc).
 

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Please have them check the main power wire going to the ECM, I have the DuraLax in a ZR2 and the first owner had the same thing happen. Dumbass GM dealer replaced the ECM thinking that was the problem, turns out the wire that feeds the ECM had eroded due to more dumbass GM engineering on the wiring harness that runs under the engine (you'll see a trend) Ran a jumper from the battery straight to the ECM wiring harness and bingo (yes a dealership did this, literally looked like something my 8 year old schemed together). Fast forward a month or so after I brought it home going down highway, shudder, shudder, went dead. Luckily I was about to get off on an off ramp and cruised to a safe stop. Got out popped hood, jiggled the ECM wiring harness and it started again, like nothing happened. Got it to a local shop, they went in and repinned the jumper to the wiring harness, which I am guessing was a half assed job from dealer mentioned above, because it has not failed or even hiccupped since. Again fast forward to spring of this year after having intermittent check engine lights come on and off, it coughed sputtered and died on my wife coming home. She was again able to get it pulled off the road. Tow truck to local GM dealer. Left long hateful note to dealer tech on steering wheel on what my opinion of it was (POS GM engineering) and lack recall on these 2.8 engines. I told him to start working down the wiring harnesses to the trouble codes and that is what he did. Called back a day or two later and said my diagnosis was right on the money, he found 6, yes 6 wires in the wiring harness that had eroded and completed severed on a sharp edge on the frame. He repaired it, made sure it wouldn't happen again. It has been running like a champ ever since. The wiring harness on the Duramax are *, numerous tech bulletins put out, they know it is an issue, and yet GM wont recall it. I have read where people have paid to have a complete wiring harness replacement vehicle wide to finally fix the problem. I hope this might give you a little insight. The 2.8 Duramax is an awesome engine from my research and has been used overseas for decades in industrial uses and things like delivery trucks. Its a proven platform, but add some GM * engineering, lackluster design effort and refusal of fixing the problem and you get what you and I just purchased. A what would be reliable little truck, becomes a constant pain in the ass trying to keep ahead of the GM cosmonauts and rocket scientists that would screw up a one car funeral. Good luck !
Crazy experience you had, but you should read the thread before just replying to the original post. The OP already posted what happened and is getting a new engine due to mechanical failure.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

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Ready for a sad story? I am the 2nd owner of my 2018 Canyon SLT with the Duramax Diesel. I bought it 5 weeks ago from a private owner. Truck had 15k on the odo and I have driven it only 1k since I took ownership.

Yesterday the engine seized up 5 miles from home while towing our 4,000 camper on flat ground. The diagnosis came from my local GMC dealer this morning. I had towed our camper once before on an 80 mile shakedown cruise just to see how it performed. No other issues at all on that little trip or my daily driving. I was traveling @ 65 mph and noticed a loss of power, then a slight shudder before it shut down. There was no advance warning, no smell, noise, vibration. No notification from the DIC of any problem. It just shut down. Now I get to see how the GM warranty works. I assume at 16k there should not be an issue getting this covered? Of course, I am now questioning my purchase and I'm not sure I can ever trust this truck again after this. FWIW, the original owner is a retired person who never towed anything and I know from Carfax that the truck had been well cared for with 2 oil changes before I bought it. This really stinks. Any thoughts/advise/insight is welcome.
Sounds like what happened with my truck, only I have the v6 . A short circuit in lights from my trailer plug caused a full shut down no response, local dealer here in Sioux City worked on it a week couldn't figure it out. I called and asked them to unplug the hitch receiver light cover. Poof all better, don't trust dealer
 

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2018 Colorado CCLB Z71 in Silver Ice Metallic
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Update from the dealer: The good news is that the warranty will cover this (I have been understandably worried about this for obvious reasons) Bad news is that I need a new engine. The #3 cylinder seems to have thrown a valve and that's why it locked up. The dealer says "they" have not seen or heard of a similar failure in this engine. That means I'm rare and special, right? I will likely be without the truck until the end of the month. Honestly, other than being w/o my truck for nearly a month I think I prefer this situation over an electrical/sensor/mystery problem that may or may not occur in the future. The other bright spot is that we were only 5 miles from home and not 500.
This is a good deal for your my friend. I had a 2011 chevy malibu that decided to break a timing chain at 80,000 miles and frag the engine. Since I purchased the extended warranty GM replaced the motor with a brand new one that had a 100,000 mile warranty. Don't know why the replacement engine came with a warranty that was nearly double the original powertrain warranty but I didn't argue. The car now has 140,000 miles on it and my daughter is driving it as a college car...
 

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i saw a youtube video about late model vehicles and their very specific battery specs and computer maintenance.
i have read where now there are computers watching electrical power needs and doing "load shifting" to make life easier on the alternator.
i would say a battery issue is plausible since a serious battery fault would put you in a condition where the engine had to stop to avoid alternator damage.
all of the symptoms fit even though i imagine i am wrong with this case, BUT beware of what battery you put in your vehicle and remember the computer is watching.
on a different note - my totaled colorado cranked the engine but it wasnt about to actually start with the whole front end tore off, full airbag deployment and parts landing way down the road.
 

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2017 All Terrain 2.8L CCLB Dark Slate Metallic
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i saw a youtube video about late model vehicles and their very specific battery specs and computer maintenance.
i have read where now there are computers watching electrical power needs and doing "load shifting" to make life easier on the alternator.
i would say a battery issue is plausible since a serious battery fault would put you in a condition where the engine had to stop to avoid alternator damage.
all of the symptoms fit even though i imagine i am wrong with this case, BUT beware of what battery you put in your vehicle and remember the computer is watching.
on a different note - my totaled colorado cranked the engine but it wasnt about to actually start with the whole front end tore off, full airbag deployment and parts landing way down the road.
you saw a youtube video, but you didn't read the thread.
 

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This is a good deal for your my friend. I had a 2011 chevy malibu that decided to break a timing chain at 80,000 miles and frag the engine. Since I purchased the extended warranty GM replaced the motor with a brand new one that had a 100,000 mile warranty. Don't know why the replacement engine came with a warranty that was nearly double the original powertrain warranty but I didn't argue. The car now has 140,000 miles on it and my daughter is driving it as a college car...
You might want to read the fine print on your warranty. When GM replaces a part under warranty, it's good until the end of the original warranty. Your old engine had a 100,000 mile warranty under the extended warranty, I bet if you read the fine print, you'll find that replacement engine was warrantied until the end of that original 100,000, not an additional 100,000.
 

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You might want to read the fine print on your warranty. When GM replaces a part under warranty, it's good until the end of the original warranty. Your old engine had a 100,000 mile warranty under the extended warranty, I bet if you read the fine print, you'll find that replacement engine was warrantied until the end of that original 100,000, not an additional 100,000.
Except if the replacement part has its own warranty: https://www.chevrolet.com/content/d...fs/chevrolet-performance-gm-warranty-card.pdf
 

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That warranty is if purchased separately, not when used as a replacement. As a side note, some states and countries have laws that effect warranties as well.
So you're saying if someone blows a motor at 99,998 miles and GM Covers a replacement motor under warranty. That new motor will only be in warranty for 2 more miles? I dont know about that.
 
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