[Dylan Barnett]

So I voided my warranty by fully deleting the truck. Did my first oil change and bought the AC Delco filter and Dexos2 oil. No auto parts store has it, so had to buy it online. Did not like that. So could I run a similar weight oil? Like Shell Rotella T6? Any insider suggestions? My searches have not really given me a definite yes/no. Thoughts?

 

[mexica]

Since its deleted, any cj4 or newer ck4 oil.

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[mexica]

Did you delete the egr also?

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[.boB]

Here's some general thoughts on oil:

Engine Oil ? Synthetic? Dino? So Confusing. ? Racing the Exocet

Engine Oil ? Viscosity ? Racing the Exocet

I like true synthetics because of the longer drain intervals. The problem is that there is only one true synthetic diesel specific oil in 5W-30 - Amsoil. Amsoil is a good oil, but hard to come by in my neck of the woods. And I'm not keen on that whole tupperware party deal. Other oils like RP and Miller, state they are to be used in gas and diesel engines, even diesel engines with diesel particulate filters.

I guess if you want to use a diesel specific true synthetic oil, you'll need to stock your own in the basement. Otherwise, pick one of the five that is readily available in your area.

If you're a dead dino (or whatever) kinda guy, pick any quality certified oil that matches your weather that's readily available in your area. There really doesn't seem to be any magical properties to one oil over another. Let the UOA and weather be your guide.

Here's a UOA for Castrol:

I'm going to change the oil again this week end and send off another sample.

Also, I'v been seing some good wear data on the new European formula Mobile 1. I might try that in the future and see what happens. Wear data is only part of the answer. Longevity is also very important. I'd try that at this oil change, but I already own the Castrol, might as well use it.

I used to drive a Factory Five Cobra with a Dart block 427W, making over 500hp. I drove it on the street, and road raced it about 6 week ends a year. I drove the snot out of it, and won 6 local championships with it. I changed the oil about 2-3 times a year, using Royal Purple street oil, 5W-40.

Because I was racing it, I tore the engine down every 2-3 years. The cylinder walls never showed any significant wear. I used Plasti-gauge on all the bearings, and they were always well within spec. That's my empirical sample of 1. Take it for what it's worth.

 

[mexica]

Mobil esp 5w30 has a lot of group iv I read. Also, I think torco makes an oil that meets acea c3. There's also redline.

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[Chuck_B]

You said fully deleted so I assume the DPF is gone all together. With that change I would ignore low SAPS oils. That MoS2 is added for a reason. You should get less blowby and oil dilution from higher MoS2 oils. I don't remember if it was Ford or Chrysler that recently changed their diesel viscosity recommendation from 5W-30 to 5W-40. I would personally run a 5W-40 if not a 10W-40 in warmer climates. As the viscosity improvers shear down, the oil slowly assumes the W rating so I wouldn't suggest a 0W-. Startup viscosity is similar between 5W-30 and 5W-40 but 5W-40 doesn't thin out as much at temperature. Have you checked your idle oil pressure at temperature?

Oils?
Maybe Delvac 1 5W-40?
I'm a Redline fan and running Euro 5W-40 in stock configuration. If deleted I would run the non-Euro 5W-40 for the higher MoS2 content. Or Delvac 1...

I guarantee this advice is worth all I have charged. You are deciding what to modify mechanically. Why ask what oil to run?

 

[Dylan Barnett]

Yes, egr blocker plate and unplugged (haven't removed all the crap til I find a great DIY) flopro exhaust, dpf and all emissions crap gone. I live in Illinois so I get all 5 seasons; that makes me want to stay with 5w. Is there really a specific European oil that these engines need vs standard? I'm not oil knowledgable. I'll look into Mobil 1... maybe amsoil will whip something up for us.

 

[Chuck_B]

The Euro designation I referred to was in reference to low SAPS (Or medium by their definition) RedLilne product name. This is their low (medium) SAPS series and the name has no bearing on other brands. It's just a freakin' product name, unique to RedLine.

FYI 5W-30 and 5W-40 have similar startup (40C) viscosities. 5W-40 doesn't thin out quite so much when hot (100C).

Yes, egr blocker plate and unplugged (haven't removed all the crap til I find a great DIY) flopro exhaust, dpf and all emissions crap gone. I live in Illinois so I get all 5 seasons; that makes me want to stay with 5w. Is there really a specific European oil that these engines need vs standard? I'm not oil knowledgable. I'll look into Mobil 1... maybe amsoil will whip something up for us.

 

[.boB]

I'll look into Mobil 1... maybe amsoil will whip something up for us.

Amsoil already did. They're the only ones on the market that I know of that has a diesel specific full synthetic 5W-30 oil.

 

[Jacqson]

Amsoil already did. They're the only ones on the market that I know of that has a diesel specific full synthetic 5W-30 oil.

Chevron Delo now have, or should have their 400 XSP 5W30 and 5W40 (CK4) full synthetics out there at probably half the cost of Amsoil.

 

[CleverUserName]

The old Delvac 1 esp CJ4 was full synthetic, you could tell because the advertised flash and pour points were higher than any other competing 5w40. However the new Delvac ESP CK4 is totally different and no longer has the same specs.

I would use any synthetic 5w40 CJ4 or CI4 Diesel Engine Oil if you are fully deleted.

I've heard this stuff is good too. Kendall SHP 5w40

 

[.boB]

Chevron Delo now have, or should have their 400 XSP 5W30 and 5W40 (CK4) full synthetics out there at probably half the cost of Amsoil.

But it's not a true synthetic, it's a refined petroleum oil. Not a bad oil, I suppose. But not a synthetic. It's not PAO base stock, which is the actual - not marketing - definition of a synthetic. That's why it's half the cost. You get what you pay for (if you're lucky).

This is right out of their SDS:

COMPONENTS CAS NUMBER AMOUNT
_____________________________________________________________________
Revision Number: 4
Revision Date: June 24, 2016
2 of 8 Delo 400 LE Synthetic SAE 5W-30
SDS : 32863
Highly refined mineral oil (C15 - C50) Mixture 0 - 70 %weight

You should read this: http://www.racingtheexocet.com/?page_id=691

 

[Jacqson]

But it's not a true synthetic, it's a refined petroleum oil. Not a bad oil, I suppose. But not a synthetic. It's not PAO base stock, which is the actual - not marketing - definition of a synthetic. That's why it's half the cost. You get what you pay for (if you're lucky).

This is right out of their SDS:

COMPONENTS CAS NUMBER AMOUNT
_____________________________________________________________________
Revision Number: 4
Revision Date: June 24, 2016
2 of 8 Delo 400 LE Synthetic SAE 5W-30
SDS : 32863
Highly refined mineral oil (C15 - C50) Mixture 0 - 70 %weight

You should read this: Engine Oil ? Synthetic? Dino? So Confusing. ? Racing the Exocet

The CAS number you are reporting is for Delo 400 LE not 400 XSP which is the oil I'm talking about. I can't find any specs on the 400 XSP yet so I can't make any comparisons between the Delo and Amsoil, but to me full Synthetic is full Synthetic... and Delo is an excellent oil for diesel engines and you don't have to break the bank to use it. The writer of the link you posted admits in the article that he is no "Tribologist" and that he has some limited experience that he'll try and pass on, translation "My opinion based on my experiences".

 

[.boB]

COMPONENTS CAS NUMBER AMOUNT
_____________________________________________________________________
Revision Number: 4
Revision Date: June 24, 2016
2 of 8 Delo 400 LE Synthetic SAE 5W-30
SDS : 32863
Highly refined mineral oil (C15 - C50) Mixture 0 - 70 %weight

Says right there, "Synthetic". Also says right there, "Highly refined mineral oil". If you think the new stuff is going to be any different, more power to ya. There's a reason it's half the price of a PAO base stock.

I'm not saying it's a bad oil, it's probably not. It's probably not any worse than any other mineral based oil in that category on the market. Probably not much better either.

In my Cummins, I used standard Valvoline petroleum based diesel oil. It was a great oil, proven by the UOA's. Nothing wrong with it, and I highly recommend it for that engine. Inexpensive, and readily available at Wally-World. Castrol seems to be a good oil for this mini-Duramax, and the UOA's seem to prove it as well. We'll see.

Give the new Delo a try, and get a UOA on it and let us know. It's probably just as good as Castrol Hopefully, better. Don't fall for advertising hype, give us real data to go on. And don't fall for the word "synthetic" on the label, either. Like everything else, be an informed consumer.

The writer of the link you posted

Gee, I wonder who that is? >

 

[INTIMIDAT3R]

Mobil 1 Synthetic is the only I have used for 30+ years. It has served me well in all my vehicles.

Mobil Synthetic is used by our military and if it can withstand the rigors of a B-52 Stratofortress' jet engines, it can withstand anything our little bitty cars and trucks can do.

 

[white cat]

Mobil 1 Synthetic is the only I have used for 30+ years. It has served me well in all my vehicles.

Mobil Synthetic is used by our military and if it can withstand the rigors of a B-52 Stratofortress' jet engines, it can withstand anything our little bitty cars and trucks can do.

I also use Mobil 1 in all my cars, but Mobil jet turbine oil is completely different. I worked with for 37 years at a major airline.

 

[Jacqson]

Says right there, "Synthetic". Also says right there, "Highly refined mineral oil". If you think the new stuff is going to be any different, more power to ya. There's a reason it's half the price of a PAO base stock.

I'm not saying it's a bad oil, it's probably not. It's probably not any worse than any other mineral based oil in that category on the market. Probably not much better either.

In my Cummins, I used standard Valvoline petroleum based diesel oil. It was a great oil, proven by the UOA's. Nothing wrong with it, and I highly recommend it for that engine. Inexpensive, and readily available at Wally-World. Castrol seems to be a good oil for this mini-Duramax, and the UOA's seem to prove it as well. We'll see.

Give the new Delo a try, and get a UOA on it and let us know. It's probably just as good as Castrol Hopefully, better. Don't fall for advertising hype, give us real data to go on. And don't fall for the word "synthetic" on the label, either. Like everything else, be an informed consumer.



Gee, I wonder who that is? >

Just because something costs twice as much as something else doesn't mean it's twice as good. Don't fall for advertising hype and be an informed consumer. I'm not privy to Chevrons definition of "Synthetic" but if the specs of their synthetic is equal to or better than the big name synthetics, then that's good enough for me. Getting away from name brand synthetics and switching to the Delo has saved me about 50% of what it used to cost me to buy just the oil. I've got an old 6.2 GM in a 91 Suburban which is pushing close to 210K and the only oil I've ever used in it was Delo. It still runs great although there isn't much of the body left. I went to the school of dnewton3 so I am well informed about HDEO.

 

[.boB]

True, you can't base your decisions on price. But you're not going to get a PAO at $5 a qt. At that price, it's petroleum. That's not a bad thing, petroleum oils are very good, and most times exactly what you need. But don't expect them to perform like a PAO, because they won't. And that's OK, because the vast majority of drivers don't need the performance of a PAO.

When the new Delo comes out, do a UOA on it and let us know. The problem with brand specific motor oil is that there's lots of advertising hype, and very little solid scientific data. There's no Consumer Reports test data on motor oil. If people would do UOA's on their favorite oils, then we would all be better off. Knowledge is power.

 

[Jacqson]

True, you can't base your decisions on price. But you're not going to get a PAO at $5 a qt. At that price, it's petroleum. That's not a bad thing, petroleum oils are very good, and most times exactly what you need. But don't expect them to perform like a PAO, because they won't. And that's OK, because the vast majority of drivers don't need the performance of a PAO.

When the new Delo comes out, do a UOA on it and let us know. The problem with brand specific motor oil is that there's lots of advertising hype, and very little solid scientific data. There's no Consumer Reports test data on motor oil. If people would do UOA's on their favorite oils, then we would all be better off. Knowledge is power.

I will do a UOA on my second change, since the first change will probably be the Dexos 2 factory fill. The new 400 XSP has some really good specs, much better than the 400 LE so I'm curious to see how it performs in the real world. I'm painfully aware that you can't buy PAO type oils for $5.00 a quart, but if you can find an oil that has the same specs or close for much, much less then why not give it a shot. A lot of truck fleets use Delo with great results, so I figure if that oil can put up with the beating of a class 8 truck, it should work awesome in my baby Dmax. I will report back on my second oil change....

 

[NormWild]

Amsoil already did. They're the only ones on the market that I know of that has a diesel specific full synthetic 5W-30 oil.

Correct, listed at their "European Car" formula, Dexos 2 compliant. I just changed over. I'm waiting on them to make a filter option as well.