[Nazgul265]

I'd recommend spending the extra $ and going with the stage 2 coilovers. They allow you to adjust front height over time or to adjust for lean without having to remove and disassemble / re assemble the strut + they come pre assembled and set for about 2" lift

If you stick to 2" or below, your CVs should be relatively safe by any measure ) and you could probably get away with stock control arms for a while .

Would you consider a 31.5 - 32" tire (255/70/R17 , 265/70/R17, 255/75/R17 ) ?
Reuse the stock wheels for a while if you can, ...less likely to rub - until you are ready to deal with the rub/ fitting headaches of non OEM offset tires .

The smaller / lighter tires are more likely to fit, will save you some gas and keep the response livelier with less need for tuning / regearing . This is keeping in view your statement that you are looking to build something capable rather than an all out off roader.

Just another point of view . It's your decision in the end.

The Stage 2 coil overs are super tempting, but they’re also quite a bit more expensive while offering the same amount of lift in the front and rear. Will they really offer that much of a performance increase? Stage 1 are rated for a max of 3” front and 1.5” rear, I plan on going with the full lift for both front and rear.

I will be sticking with stock wheels. Aftermarket would be great but they’re more expensive and largely cosmetic. As for tire size, I am shooting for 285/70/17 but am also looking at 275/70/17, wouldn’t go with anything below the latter though. As for the tires themselves, I am going with KO2s or Wildpeak AT3s (probably AT3s due to cheaper price). Les Schwab was trying to recommend some company tires that are supposedly made in the Wildpeak AT3 factory, but I said I didn’t want them.

 

[White016]

They're to correct the caster/camber changes and ball joint angles that lifting IFS vehicles causes. Not necessary for small amounts of lift but definitely help at 2"+



Not sure I agree on diff drop being cheap insurance. They alter pinion angles and aren't compatible with some skid plates.

I'm not sure I agree with (maybe) helping CV angles at the cost of changing your pinion angle.

I do not run a diff drop with ~3" of suspension lift. Have no issues with my CV boots, no vibrations, and haven't blown up anything. There are several instances of exploded diff dropped front diffs on TacomaWorld (I know, different truck). No way of knowing what caused the issue (diff drop, or wheeling hard, or losing the metal lottery), but based on building a few vehicles now I recommend diff drops if you have vibrations or tear CV boots after a lift. If you diff drop and it fixes it, rock on. If you diff drop and it doesn't fix it, remove the diff drop.

We can agree to disagree.
I see it like this, get the axles as close to stock as possible, I believe the axle angle is more important than the pinion. I think the pinion angle is not an issue if you have no vibration, it does not change, or go to extremes one could say. Not to mention the axles are weaker than the front joints.
But yeah, I don't know about failed axles or boots because of angle. But I do have the drop just in case.
I think stock is better and the drop puts it closer to stock than not using it if that makes sense?...(even with the slight pinion angle change)

 

[Pro Stock John]

Diff drop, does it make sense to do that with a big lift to take some of the angle out of the axles or is there another reason?

 

[White016]

Diff drop, does it make sense to do that with a big lift to take some of the angle out of the axles or is there another reason?

it is to get axles angle back closer to stock. Yes, to keep the angle reasonable. The only reason for it.
By big lift what do you mean? A "big" lift like 4" will lower the diff along with everything else up front.

 

[WILLY59]

I have a 2022 Colorado LT V6. I will primarily only be using it in deep snow and it’s not specifically for off roading but I am very outdoorsy and want it to be pretty capable. I’m pulling the trigger on an Eibach Stage 1 and 33” tires (285/70/R17; Wildpeak AT3s) within the next week ish. From what i’ve read an aftermarket UCA, trifecta tune, and regear are all recommended. What would you guys recommend saving up for first? Is the UCA needed asap or can it wait? Are there any other supporting mods that are recommended? Thanks!

Willys59 here with a 19 ZR2 2.25" Peak suspension coil lift 1" add a leaf in rear with 255 80R 17 Toyo Open Country AT3. 4.10 Nitro Gears and Trifecta Advantage Tune. All are worth it. And Suggested. Trifecta Advantage is awesome Sport. ECO, AND TOW /HAUL MODES. Got 20.5 mpg for 40+ mile circuit to top of Buckhorn Pass on 299 and back to Redding 7% grade for 7 miles. If you are able do it. You are under geared with 33's and killing your trans slowly. Also not good for Tcase.

 

[Fallgc]

I just installed the eibach stage one on my 16 with 1” blocks in rear, I’ve got 32” tire and when I tirned the wheel all the way they bearly touched the frame. I put bara 1.25 wheel spacers with no rubbing. My tires are 255/70/18. 32” diameter but a little narrower, help with milage. If you put 33” tires on that setup with no wheel offset or spacer there going to rub. I post my truck on the build section with everything I did.