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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2022 Colorado LT V6. I will primarily only be using it in deep snow and it’s not specifically for off roading but I am very outdoorsy and want it to be pretty capable. I’m pulling the trigger on an Eibach Stage 1 and 33” tires (285/70/R17; Wildpeak AT3s) within the next week ish. From what i’ve read an aftermarket UCA, trifecta tune, and regear are all recommended. What would you guys recommend saving up for first? Is the UCA needed asap or can it wait? Are there any other supporting mods that are recommended? Thanks!
 

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I have a 2022 Colorado LT V6. I will primarily only be using it in deep snow and it’s not specifically for off roading but I am very outdoorsy and want it to be pretty capable. I’m pulling the trigger on an Eibach Stage 1 and 33” tires within the next week ish. From what i’ve read an aftermarket UCA, trifecta tune, and regear are all recommended. What would you guys recommend saving up for first? Is the UCA needed asap or can it wait? Are there any other supporting mods that are recommended? Thanks!
For a 2-3" lift:

When you install the lift:
  • UCAs (I went with SPC)
  • Extended sway links (I used Prothane 19419)
  • Sway bar drop kit (Streetrays popular, mine came with my Kings)
  • (I do not recommend this) Diff Drop kit (Peak, Eibach, whoever).

If you regear, you will lose cruise control due to an ABS wheel speed sensor mismatch. I'm not terribly familiar with the gas trucks and tuning, but it's possible Trifecta can adjust the gear ratio in the tune like you can on a diesel truck.

As for being capable offroad, you want several things out of your truck. This is in my order of importance:
  • Ability to maneuver (Not overloading the truck like I imagine a lot of "overlanders" are). Don't go over GVWR regardless of what a suspension company has told you about increased payload. GAWR is the important metric behind GVWR and unless you axle swap, you can't improve GAWR.
  • Ability to clear obstacles (increase your ground clearance to improve approach, departure, and breakover angles). You do this through a combination of tire size and lift. How you lift (pucks, body, or suspension) will determine what your wheel travel will be. I really believe you get what you pay for with lifting in terms of ride comfort and wheel travel.
  • Ability to (self) recover (Winch, recovery points, shackles, traction boards, straps, snatch block, venerable hilift jack, etc...). The "RhinoUSA" recovery stuff listed is made in China but so is most of the Warn and ARB stuff now. Those RhinoUSA items appear to be ARB clones and have worked well for me on several occasions.
  • Ability for the truck to survive driver mistakes (Skids, armor, steel bumpers. The skid support bracket is a known 2nd Gen weakpoint. 589fab fix)
  • Ability to see (Lighting in all directions. Diode Dynamics, Baja, and Rigid all make great stuff. eBay and Amazon cheap lights will fail/fill with water/sunfade faster.)
  • Ability to communicate with others on the trail (GMRS/FRS, CB, HAM, etc...). The Retevis radios I linked are cheap FRS radios with good range/durability and can be reprogrammed into GMRS radios once the proper licensing is obtained and you know how.



[*]Tie Rod Sleeves are a divisive topic because the tie rods could (probably) are designed to be the weak point in the system and putting gnarly sleeves on them shifts the point of failure to something else (could be the steering rack itself). I have sleeves (Merchant Automotive), I didn't consider this when I put them on, but I do like the way they look. I may take them off. There are also now "short sleeves" but I believe they will have the same effect. For an insta warrior, they look great. For rock crawling, they might cause bigger issues than tie rod replacement.
[*]Shock guards are good to go and "necessary" depending on your use case. For a serious offroader or insta warrior, probably worthwhile.
 

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I would skip the tune unless you are racing or pulling a trailer
buy c/d rated tires, not LT-10's
go with the Rough Country struts or the Rough Country 3.5 inch lift
RC lift is 2 inch lift with 1.5 inch body lift
unless you are racing across the desert or rock crawling

try a soler pedal adjuster
 
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upper control arm.
yes, a diff drop is cheap insurance.
33s? Hmm, trimming might be in order. Maybe ok with stock wheels I believe but aftermarkets stick out more and like to rub the outer part of the fenders on turns. At least on my '16 it did....
 

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Ah, why would the truck need different upper control arms, are they 'shorter' or something?
they don't have to, it' just the angle of it's ball joint is goofed after the lift. Mine are stock and so far so good.
 

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several definitions of "33's"
285/70/17's are usualy define as 33's and can get them in c/d rating
if going to that size even with a lift on oem wheels you will need to trim the pinch weld and the waffle, with a lift with oem wheels you will rub on the frame when turning all the way, as a lift tucks the wheels in.
34/12.50/17's along with 285/75/17 are 33's even though they are refered as 34's but 10ply
then the 55 series but then you re getting into the 10ply 55lb tires
 

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Ah, why would the truck need different upper control arms, are they 'shorter' or something?
They're to correct the caster/camber changes and ball joint angles that lifting IFS vehicles causes. Not necessary for small amounts of lift but definitely help at 2"+

upper control arm.
yes, a diff drop is cheap insurance.
33s? Hmm, trimming might be in order. Maybe ok with stock wheels I believe but aftermarkets stick out more and like to rub the outer part of the fenders on turns. At least on my '16 it did....
Not sure I agree on diff drop being cheap insurance. They alter pinion angles and aren't compatible with some skid plates.

I'm not sure I agree with (maybe) helping CV angles at the cost of changing your pinion angle.

I do not run a diff drop with ~3" of suspension lift. Have no issues with my CV boots, no vibrations, and haven't blown up anything. There are several instances of exploded diff dropped front diffs on TacomaWorld (I know, different truck). No way of knowing what caused the issue (diff drop, or wheeling hard, or losing the metal lottery), but based on building a few vehicles now I recommend diff drops if you have vibrations or tear CV boots after a lift. If you diff drop and it fixes it, rock on. If you diff drop and it doesn't fix it, remove the diff drop.
 

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I'd recommend spending the extra $ and going with the stage 2 coilovers. They allow you to adjust front height over time or to adjust for lean without having to remove and disassemble / re assemble the strut + they come pre assembled and set for about 2" lift

If you stick to 2" or below, your CVs should be relatively safe by any measure ) and you could probably get away with stock control arms for a while .

Would you consider a 31.5 - 32" tire (255/70/R17 , 265/70/R17, 255/75/R17 ) ?
Reuse the stock wheels for a while if you can, ...less likely to rub - until you are ready to deal with the rub/ fitting headaches of non OEM offset tires .

The smaller / lighter tires are more likely to fit, will save you some gas and keep the response livelier with less need for tuning / regearing . This is keeping in view your statement that you are looking to build something capable rather than an all out off roader.

Just another point of view . It's your decision in the end.
 

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I'd recommend spending the extra $ and going with the stage 2 coilovers. They allow you to adjust front height over time or to adjust for lean without having to remove and disassemble / re assemble the strut + they come pre assembled and set for about 2" lift

If you stick to 2" or below, your CVs should be relatively safe by any measure ) and you could probably get away with stock control arms for a while .

Would you consider a 31.5 - 32" tire (255/70/R17 , 265/70/R17, 255/75/R17 ) ?
Reuse the stock wheels for a while if you can, ...less likely to rub - until you are ready to deal with the rub/ fitting headaches of non OEM offset tires .

The smaller / lighter tires are more likely to fit, will save you some gas and keep the response livelier with less need for tuning / regearing . This is keeping in view your statement that you are looking to build something capable rather than an all out off roader.

Just another point of view . It's your decision in the end.

all well and good info until I saw the 255/75/17, on a flaken at3w it is 55lbs and 10 ply (I looked) :)
My D-rated 285/70/17's weigh 43lbs my stock oem was 39lbs
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
For a 2-3" lift:

When you install the lift:
  • UCAs (I went with SPC)
  • Extended sway links (I used Prothane 19419)
  • Sway bar drop kit (Streetrays popular, mine came with my Kings)
  • (I do not recommend this) Diff Drop kit (Peak, Eibach, whoever).

If you regear, you will lose cruise control due to an ABS wheel speed sensor mismatch. I'm not terribly familiar with the gas trucks and tuning, but it's possible Trifecta can adjust the gear ratio in the tune like you can on a diesel truck.

As for being capable offroad, you want several things out of your truck. This is in my order of importance:
  • Ability to maneuver (Not overloading the truck like I imagine a lot of "overlanders" are). Don't go over GVWR regardless of what a suspension company has told you about increased payload. GAWR is the important metric behind GVWR and unless you axle swap, you can't improve GAWR.
  • Ability to clear obstacles (increase your ground clearance to improve approach, departure, and breakover angles). You do this through a combination of tire size and lift. How you lift (pucks, body, or suspension) will determine what your wheel travel will be. I really believe you get what you pay for with lifting in terms of ride comfort and wheel travel.
  • Ability to (self) recover (Winch, recovery points, shackles, traction boards, straps, snatch block, venerable hilift jack, etc...). The "RhinoUSA" recovery stuff listed is made in China but so is most of the Warn and ARB stuff now. Those RhinoUSA items appear to be ARB clones and have worked well for me on several occasions.
  • Ability for the truck to survive driver mistakes (Skids, armor, steel bumpers. The skid support bracket is a known 2nd Gen weakpoint. 589fab fix)
  • Ability to see (Lighting in all directions. Diode Dynamics, Baja, and Rigid all make great stuff. eBay and Amazon cheap lights will fail/fill with water/sunfade faster.)
  • Ability to communicate with others on the trail (GMRS/FRS, CB, HAM, etc...). The Retevis radios I linked are cheap FRS radios with good range/durability and can be reprogrammed into GMRS radios once the proper licensing is obtained and you know how.



[*]Tie Rod Sleeves are a divisive topic because the tie rods could (probably) are designed to be the weak point in the system and putting gnarly sleeves on them shifts the point of failure to something else (could be the steering rack itself). I have sleeves (Merchant Automotive), I didn't consider this when I put them on, but I do like the way they look. I may take them off. There are also now "short sleeves" but I believe they will have the same effect. For an insta warrior, they look great. For rock crawling, they might cause bigger issues than tie rod replacement.
[*]Shock guards are good to go and "necessary" depending on your use case. For a serious offroader or insta warrior, probably worthwhile.
Thank you for this lengthy reply! It’s incredibly informative. I will get The extended sway links, away drop kit, and uca all installed at the same time. A lot of the other stuff you mentioned is on my list in the future after I save for it. Winch is the next thing i’m trying to install asap. I know myself and from quite a few past experiences, I definitely need a winch. The temptation to go places I know I might not make is too great haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I would skip the tune unless you are racing or pulling a trailer
buy c/d rated tires, not LT-10's
go with the Rough Country struts or the Rough Country 3.5 inch lift
RC lift is 2 inch lift with 1.5 inch body lift
unless you are racing across the desert or rock crawling

try a soler pedal adjuster
Do you have personal experience with Rough Country? I’ve seen quite a bit of negative talk surrounding them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
upper control arm.
yes, a diff drop is cheap insurance.
33s? Hmm, trimming might be in order. Maybe ok with stock wheels I believe but aftermarkets stick out more and like to rub the outer part of the fenders on turns. At least on my '16 it did....
285/70/r17 is what i’d be trying to push and will definitely need trimming. And will also be keeping stock wheels. It would be nice to have a pair of aftermarket wheels, but they’re expensive and almost entirely cosmetic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
several definitions of "33's"
285/70/17's are usualy define as 33's and can get them in c/d rating
if going to that size even with a lift on oem wheels you will need to trim the pinch weld and the waffle, with a lift with oem wheels you will rub on the frame when turning all the way, as a lift tucks the wheels in.
34/12.50/17's along with 285/75/17 are 33's even though they are refered as 34's but 10ply
then the 55 series but then you re getting into the 10ply 55lb tires
Apologies for not being clear. Yes 285/70/r17 on stock wheels is the goal. If that was too much I could definitely go 275/70/17 too. I’d being going with KO2s or Wildpeak AT3s, but probably the AT3s due to cheaper price.
 

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No diff drop
Sway bar delete
Timbren bump stops
Gears
Trifecta

Going from a 40lb tire to a 50 lb tire has not really noticeable.
 
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