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After reading through this in detail I decided to install the 4 shocks, but keep the stock front springs. Using stock location on shock (lowest setting) but adding 1.25" spacer at upper mount. Levels it out perfectly at stock ride height in rear (although I have airbags in back so I could dial it in if needed). Borrowed the spring compressor from Autozone and it worked fine, and safety pins fit over (stock) coils. https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-strut-spring-compressor

I did not loosen and retorque the A-Arm pivot bushing bolts as I could not figure out from the manual or instructions where the "neutral" position for the bushings is supposed to be, seems like it should be neutral with tires on the ground and suspension settled, but my factory setting is more like neutral position at full compression. Meaning the upper a-arm springs to full compression (up) position with the upper ball joint out of the knuckle.
 

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Has anyone done the 2" lift recently and installed the suggested Prothane end-links? I can't for the life of me make them work. It almost seems like the metal sleeve between the control and the sway bar is too long; once I get the washers and bushings all in place there's no space left on the bolt to get the lock nut on...
 

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After reading through this in detail I decided to install the 4 shocks, but keep the stock front springs. Using stock location on shock (lowest setting) but adding 1.25" spacer at upper mount. Levels it out perfectly at stock ride height in rear (although I have airbags in back so I could dial it in if needed). Borrowed the spring compressor from Autozone and it worked fine, and safety pins fit over (stock) coils. https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-strut-spring-compressor

I did not loosen and retorque the A-Arm pivot bushing bolts as I could not figure out from the manual or instructions where the "neutral" position for the bushings is supposed to be, seems like it should be neutral with tires on the ground and suspension settled, but my factory setting is more like neutral position at full compression. Meaning the upper a-arm springs to full compression (up) position with the upper ball joint out of the knuckle.
I installed aftermarket UCAs and flipped the bolts around so the nuts are on the outside of the strut area. tightened it down just enough sop once the struts were installed the bolt head wouldn't spin as I tightened the nut. Then re-installed everything and torqued the UCAs down while the truck was on the ground.

As for stock UCAs, not sure if it changed enough for you to really have to do that.
 

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Has anyone done the 2" lift recently and installed the suggested Prothane end-links? I can't for the life of me make them work. It almost seems like the metal sleeve between the control and the sway bar is too long; once I get the washers and bushings all in place there's no space left on the bolt to get the lock nut on...
It may sound dumb but make sure the Sway bar is loose on it's brackets. Keep the endlinks loose and sway bar bracket bolts loose until both sides are connected. Then tighten everything down.
 

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It may sound dumb but make sure the Sway bar is loose on it's brackets. Keep the endlinks loose and sway bar bracket bolts loose until both sides are connected. Then tighten everything down.
I haven't tried loosening the bar, but that makes perfect sense. Thanks brother!
 
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2018 CCLB, Z71, Black, 3.6L V6 w/8 Speed Transmission
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I recently installed the Eibach Pro Truck lift system. I picked it up off TireRack for $511 + free shipping. Maybe not the best price but not the worst and I had it in 2 days so that's good enough for me. The springs are rated for 554 lbs/in and are 10% stiffer than stock.



At 50,000 miles my OEM shocks and struts were worn out and as a result they caused severe cupping to my P265/70/17 Duratracs such that I didn't want to live with the horrendous noise for another 3,000+ miles while they evened out. So I replaced them with P255/75/17 Continental TerrainContacts.

The rear shocks wouldn't even extend on their own anymore.

I replaced the rear shocks myself then took the front struts/springs to a buddy's shop (MC Motorsports) and they hooked it up with a great price on install and alignment.

The spring/strut kit looks very nice and feels solid. The struts could be compressed by hand (without the spring) but it took quite a bit of effort to do so. I set the perch on the 2nd notch from the bottom for a .7" lift from the strut and 2" lift from the springs for a total of 2.7". Give or take.





The finished product doesn't really look any different than when I just had the 2" RC leveling kit and the 1" blocks but it measures higher. I wish we could go up to the full 3" up front without worrying about new a-arms.


Ride height is now: (numbers are approx. and measured through the middle of the wheel center cap from ground to bottom of fender and 35psi in the tires)
Driver's Front 37.75"
Passenger Front 38.15"
*Rear measurements taken with the smaller Duratracs installed. Will remeasure once I remove the RTT.
Driver's Rear 38"
Passenger Rear 39"

EDIT
- I traded the red truck in for a white 2018 CCSB and installed another Eibach kit on it shortly after purchase. All updates are based on experiences in the new truck.

The Pro-Truck front shocks set at 2.7" with P285/70/17s, 1" rear lift blocks and 1" add-a-leaf on the new truck.


Prior to the install the truck exhibited a lot of body roll despite running 40psi in the tires. On the freeway the truck would porpoise after hitting bumps or dips. The "bumper test" wasn't conclusive but it was pretty easy to compress the suspension and rebound would results in at least 3 bounces. After the install I observe 1 or 2 bounces so I'm not sure how well that test works on such a long truck with a RTT making it top heavy.

On road I noticed a big decrease in body roll through corners and the porpoising effect is gone and the truck feels much more planted. Between the new suspension and the new milder AT tires I feel more of the road but it is not harsh. It's hard to describe. I feel all of the little bumps and cracks but the overall ride still feels soft.

*Update 07.06.2018 - The on road experience is definitely tighter and more sporty feeling. It's not as cush as the stock suspension but it's not unpleasant either. When I upsized my tires from OEM to 32s I feel like I lost the crisper steering and flatter handling through the corners. This kit helps restore that feeling by reducing body roll despite being higher off the ground.

Update 10.09.2018 - I think the front suspension has broken in and as such the ride quality on road is quite good. It is much more controlled than OEM and handles impacts much better. I accidentally "send it" over a raised railroad crossing this weekend and the despite getting a foot or 2 of air the front end landed firmly but didn't feel unpleasant and I was able to maintain control and not crash into the big rig in the other lane. The rear end was much less controlled and was definitely unpleasant but I have the OEM shocks back there with a 2"+ lift so I don't expect it to be nice. :)

Off-road has been limited to gravel, dirt and rocky trails on my nature preserves. I can't say I really notice much of a difference here. Maybe if I drove faster I would but I generally drive slow enough not to kick up dust. I'll report back once I get out to regular of-road areas where I don't have to be so conservative.

Update 07.06.2018 - I've spent a lot more time off road on rocky trails and washboard roads. I really don't feel like the kit makes the ride any softer or more pleasant than the stock suspension. It may even be a tad more harsh. However, compression is slower so when the front tires drop off a rock or ledge the front end doesn't crash down and compress the suspension too quickly so it feels a bit more controlled. The added lift offers the obvious clearance benefits.

Update 10.02.2018 - With a truly gnarly trail under my belt and a lot more off-road time I stand by the comments I made above. The suspension works well enough but by virtue of trying to have really good on-road manners the off-road ride is not quite as soft as I would like but you can't have it all and especially for such an affordable price point. I think the ride is a little softer than the Bilstein 5100 but it's stiffer than say the FOX 2.0, King or similar progressive/linear valved shock system.

Some off-road shots so you can see what I have tested them on.

Kal1fornia runs the Eibach kit at 2.7" and 285/70/17 KO2s. Here is a rather difficult section on Signal Peak Trail



Mine with the Eibach kit at 2.7" with 255/75/17 Geolandar AT G015s.


Desert soft dust trails near Mammoth


In summary, keep an eye on your OEM shocks and struts. Mine didn't last long at all and I don't beat on the truck by any means. If you want to lift your brand new truck I still think the leveling kits with spacers are fine but when it comes time to replace your struts or if you are lifting a truck with 30k+ miles on it I would jump straight to the Bilstein, Eibach, Icon, King, BDS etc type kits and do it right.

For the money I think the Eibach full kit ($511) is a excellent product and for the majority of drivers I would highly recommend it over a spacer kit or Bilstein/OEM spring setup. Eibach customer service has been very helpful, Dave Cortez in particular, in diagnosing the driver side knocking I am experiencing. It is likely not a problem with the suspension at all yet they have been very helpful and responsive.

Update 12.26.2018 The knocking/rattling sound is not coming from the Eibach kit yet Eibach graciously sent me 2 replacement shocks just in case. Talk about great customer service.
Sorry to be digging up ancient history on you but what is the brand/name of the over bed carrier you had on your old red truck?
 

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Sorry to be digging up ancient history on you but what is the brand/name of the over bed carrier you had on your old red truck?
You can reference his build thread if you click on his profile. Busy guy these days. Not on the boards much.

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