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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I recently installed the Eibach Pro Truck lift system. I picked it up off TireRack for $511 + free shipping. Maybe not the best price but not the worst and I had it in 2 days so that's good enough for me. The springs are rated for 554 lbs/in and are 10% stiffer than stock.



At 50,000 miles my OEM shocks and struts were worn out and as a result they caused severe cupping to my P265/70/17 Duratracs such that I didn't want to live with the horrendous noise for another 3,000+ miles while they evened out. So I replaced them with P255/75/17 Continental TerrainContacts.

The rear shocks wouldn't even extend on their own anymore.

I replaced the rear shocks myself then took the front struts/springs to a buddy's shop (MC Motorsports) and they hooked it up with a great price on install and alignment.

The spring/strut kit looks very nice and feels solid. The struts could be compressed by hand (without the spring) but it took quite a bit of effort to do so. I set the perch on the 2nd notch from the bottom for a .7" lift from the strut and 2" lift from the springs for a total of 2.7". Give or take.





The finished product doesn't really look any different than when I just had the 2" RC leveling kit and the 1" blocks but it measures higher. I wish we could go up to the full 3" up front without worrying about new a-arms.


Ride height is now: (numbers are approx. and measured through the middle of the wheel center cap from ground to bottom of fender and 35psi in the tires)
Driver's Front 37.75"
Passenger Front 38.15"
*Rear measurements taken with the smaller Duratracs installed. Will remeasure once I remove the RTT.
Driver's Rear 38"
Passenger Rear 39"

EDIT - I traded the red truck in for a white 2018 CCSB and installed another Eibach kit on it shortly after purchase. All updates are based on experiences in the new truck.

The Pro-Truck front shocks set at 2.7" with P285/70/17s, 1" rear lift blocks and 1" add-a-leaf on the new truck.


Prior to the install the truck exhibited a lot of body roll despite running 40psi in the tires. On the freeway the truck would porpoise after hitting bumps or dips. The "bumper test" wasn't conclusive but it was pretty easy to compress the suspension and rebound would results in at least 3 bounces. After the install I observe 1 or 2 bounces so I'm not sure how well that test works on such a long truck with a RTT making it top heavy.

On road I noticed a big decrease in body roll through corners and the porpoising effect is gone and the truck feels much more planted. Between the new suspension and the new milder AT tires I feel more of the road but it is not harsh. It's hard to describe. I feel all of the little bumps and cracks but the overall ride still feels soft.

*Update 07.06.2018 - The on road experience is definitely tighter and more sporty feeling. It's not as cush as the stock suspension but it's not unpleasant either. When I upsized my tires from OEM to 32s I feel like I lost the crisper steering and flatter handling through the corners. This kit helps restore that feeling by reducing body roll despite being higher off the ground.

*Update* 10.09.2018 - I think the front suspension has broken in and as such the ride quality on road is quite good. It is much more controlled than OEM and handles impacts much better. I accidentally "send it" over a raised railroad crossing this weekend and the despite getting a foot or 2 of air the front end landed firmly but didn't feel unpleasant and I was able to maintain control and not crash into the big rig in the other lane. The rear end was much less controlled and was definitely unpleasant but I have the OEM shocks back there with a 2"+ lift so I don't expect it to be nice. :)

Off-road has been limited to gravel, dirt and rocky trails on my nature preserves. I can't say I really notice much of a difference here. Maybe if I drove faster I would but I generally drive slow enough not to kick up dust. I'll report back once I get out to regular of-road areas where I don't have to be so conservative.

*Update* 07.06.2018 - I've spent a lot more time off road on rocky trails and washboard roads. I really don't feel like the kit makes the ride any softer or more pleasant than the stock suspension. It may even be a tad more harsh. However, compression is slower so when the front tires drop off a rock or ledge the front end doesn't crash down and compress the suspension too quickly so it feels a bit more controlled. The added lift offers the obvious clearance benefits.

*Update* 10.02.2018 - With a truly gnarly trail under my belt and a lot more off-road time I stand by the comments I made above. The suspension works well enough but by virtue of trying to have really good on-road manners the off-road ride is not quite as soft as I would like but you can't have it all and especially for such an affordable price point. I think the ride is a little softer than the Bilstein 5100 but it's stiffer than say the FOX 2.0, King or similar progressive/linear valved shock system.

Some off-road shots so you can see what I have tested them on.

Kal1fornia runs the Eibach kit at 2.7" and 285/70/17 KO2s. Here is a rather difficult section on Signal Peak Trail



Mine with the Eibach kit at 2.7" with 255/75/17 Geolandar AT G015s.


Desert soft dust trails near Mammoth


In summary, keep an eye on your OEM shocks and struts. Mine didn't last long at all and I don't beat on the truck by any means. If you want to lift your brand new truck I still think the leveling kits with spacers are fine but when it comes time to replace your struts or if you are lifting a truck with 30k+ miles on it I would jump straight to the Bilstein, Eibach, Icon, King, BDS etc type kits and do it right.

For the money I think the Eibach full kit ($511) is a excellent product and for the majority of drivers I would highly recommend it over a spacer kit or Bilstein/OEM spring setup. Eibach customer service has been very helpful, Dave Cortez in particular, in diagnosing the driver side knocking I am experiencing. It is likely not a problem with the suspension at all yet they have been very helpful and responsive.

*Update* 12.26.2018 The knocking/rattling sound is not coming from the Eibach kit yet Eibach graciously sent me 2 replacement shocks just in case. Talk about great customer service.
 

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Thanks for the update. I've got roughly 15k on my 2017. I've been casually looking at the billstien shocks and stuff.

Your truck looks great! So at Moab did you ride MTB I'm guessing by the raceface mat on the tailgate.

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Sweet look'n ride there and thanks for the info on this kit. Will be a few years before I shop shocks, but this will definitely be a contender.
 

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And this doesn't require a diff drop, or sway bar extensions correct?

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And this doesn't require a diff drop, or sway bar extensions correct?

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Maybe someone else will correct me if I'm wrong but dropping the front diff a little for any lift over 2", in the front, on these trucks isn't a bad idea. The front end geometry will still change even with the Eibach's. From what I have read the sway bar relocation brackets would only be needed if it's rubbing. Some guys prefer the extended sway bar end links. It seems to be preference. About the only advantage I saw to the brackets is for guys running large tires it moves it forward slightly to alleviate rubbing.

All in all though both parts aren't that expensive and if you've already gone through the trouble to put the Eibach kit in putting the 2 drop kits in is simple enough.

I'm probably going to order the Eibach kit myself in the next few days and at least right now plan on doing the front diff drop. I'm undecided on the sway bar. I was thinking of ordering the links or bracket just to have if it is an issue I can toss it in if it's an issue without having to order it after the fact.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
And this doesn't require a diff drop, or sway bar extensions correct?

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Required is a debadable subject. On this forum people geberally agree it is good insurance. On the Tacoma forum there are heated battles over the pros and cons.

I have a diff drop installed mainly to head off warranty denials from the dealer. I haven't looked into the extended sway bar links yet.
 
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Gotcha, I started following the hashtag #gmccanyon on Instagram. Now I see all these sweet looking trucks were lifts and tires. Sigh... I'm probably gonna go this route when my OE stuff is due for replacement.

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Discussion Starter #8
I've been chasing some vibration and jittery feeling suspension gremlins for the last week. The truck feels nervous and jittery/bouncy at all driving speeds and it is pretty unpleasant. For a few days it was very annoying so I took the truck back to America's Tire to have the new tires checked out. After a few more attemps at balancing and road force balancing we gave up. They ordered a set of Yokohama Geolandar AT G015 for me and I had them installed today. The tires and super smooth and the tire-based vibration I was experiencing seems gone but the bouncy jittery feeling is still there although reduced.

Now I'm starting to wonder if there is something wrong with the Eibach kit or the install that would cause this feeling. It's almost like the suspension is overreacting to every crack, rock or dip in the road. Like it needs more dampening. Do you have any sugestions of what I can check?

1. Tire pressure ranges from 28psi to 40psi. The problem persists despite pressure changes
2. I lifted the truck and pulled on the front tires to check ball joints and those seem good
3. Changed tires completely and problem is still there
 

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My boss had this problem on his Jeep Cherokee after a 4" lift. He changed everything including adding a stabilizer bar. I think he's getting the upper ball joints changed today. Everything else has been replaced.

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Discussion Starter #11


Here’s a before and after pic.



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Looks good!

Try taking photos with the ground "level". With the camera tilted there is more ground showing between your front tire and the bottom of the photo (lifted pic). This makes the truck look nose high and skews how the lift is perceived. If you leave enough "room" between the frame edges and the front & rear end when taking the photo you can later adjust the tilt of the image in editing to fix the leveling in the event you took a photo that was angled too much. :)
 

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Looks good!



Try taking photos with the ground "level". With the camera tilted there is more ground showing between your front tire and the bottom of the photo (lifted pic). This makes the truck look nose high and skews how the lift is perceived. If you leave enough "room" between the frame edges and the front & rear end when taking the photo you can later adjust the tilt of the image in editing to fix the leveling in the event you took a photo that was angled too much. :)


I hear ya but I was just too excited to post lol.
I’ll edit some and upload.


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I hear ya but I was just too excited to post lol.
I’ll edit some and upload.


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Haha I do that all the time!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Adding photos of the kit installed for diagnostic purposes.

Driver's side front view


Passenger side front view


Driver side rear view


Passenger side rear view


Driver side top view


Passenger side top view
 

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Now I'm starting to wonder if there is something wrong with the Eibach kit or the install that would cause this feeling. It's almost like the suspension is overreacting to every crack, rock or dip in the road. Like it needs more dampening. Do you have any sugestions of what I can check?
I've had my kit installed for about a week now. Haven't racked up too many kilometers on it since install, mix of highway and city driving, but I haven't noticed anything like you're describing. I have 1" spacers in the rear and the fronts set on the second notch. I have no diff drop or link extensions. I haven't yet taken it in for a wheel alignment as they can't fit me in until mid next week, but tracking and steering seem normal, if not slightly more stiff. Got stock wheels and stock tires on a 2.8l Diesel All Terrain. Hopefully this weekend I'll get up a few forest service roads if I don't get called into work.
 

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I installed Eiback racing springs on a Ford Focus about 10 years go and they
broke several times. They were warranted, but I had to handle the labor and the resulting damaged tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
In trying to diagnose the vibration I crawled under the front end to check for CV joint play and I noticed this:

The driver side coil is not seated completely into the lower perch notch. I doubt this would cause vibration though.


The spindles have groves in them where they are making contact with the lower control arms. The spindles have groves on either side of the control arm except the driver side spindle only has a grove behind the control arm. I'm not sure how long they have been like this so I'm not blaming the lift but the grooves look fresh. Any idea why this is happening?

Driver side rear


Passenger side front


Passenger side rear
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Dealer had it today to address the axle seal seepage. They test drove it and didn't notice a vibration. Frankly speaking the vibration sorta gets lost in the bouncy ride and the roughness from feeling every imperfection in the road. :???:

At this point I think I'm going to chalk it up to the Eibach kit and how it stiffens up the ride. Eibach said that it woukd likely ride rougher at the 2.7" setting due to compressing the spring and that it may ride a little softer at the 2" setting. I'm not happy with the way it rides and I'd rather just go back to the way the truck felt with the 2" RC leveling kit and the Duratracs prior to the shocks wearing out. At this point it's too much hassle to swap back. If I coukd get another $2k out of the truck I'd just trade it in for a ZR2 and be done with it. Modding always seems to lead to problems. I should know this after 25yrs of doing it....
 

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I'm honestly kind of afraid to lift my truck and lose the factory smoothness.

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you went to a STIFFER spring, shock and tire, just saying....
2 ply sidewall to a 6 ply, if not more sidewall...
 
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