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None of this has anything to do with my truck, and that trailer is lighter than the one I will be towing, nor is it personal experience.
I am about to start my 5th season of towing with a similar setup. No issues to report and great tips from all the guys up above here.

One final observation would be to avoid cruise control in hilly terrain. It is way too aggressive at trying to maintain speed and best to feather the gas pedal yourself even if you drop 1 or 2 mph. You will know what I mean once you try it and the RPM's climb to 5,000. It won't hurt anything but is nerve racking and totally unnecessary.

Enjoy your camping season!
 

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One final observation would be to avoid cruise control in hilly terrain. It is way too aggressive at trying to maintain speed and best to feather the gas pedal yourself even if you drop 1 or 2 mph. You will know what I mean once you try it and the RPM's climb to 5,000. It won't hurt anything but is nerve racking and totally unnecessary.

Enjoy your camping season!
Also worth noting about using cruise while climbing a grade is that if it can't maintain speed and ends up dropping by 10MPH then it will disengage cruise control. If you're not expecting it then you can end up in a sticky situation and unsure about what is happening.
 

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I tow the same trailer with a 2016 Canyon. It tows very well behind the truck with a set of tow mirrors. The motor does wind up with any type of grade but that is to be expected. I have never felt the need for more power or acceleration ability while towing. I would suggest getting everything hooked up and towing to a reputable hitch shop that can take a look at your distribution setup. I took the time to do this and ended up trading the shop to a different size shank and moved the positioning up one bolt. I would also suggest towing with an anti-sway bar. It makes a lot of difference and keeps both units very tight on the road. I do not know that I would want to step up much more on the weight as far as a bigger trailer, but I am very confident with the towing ability of the Canyon.
 

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I tow the same trailer with a 2016 Canyon. It tows very well behind the truck with a set of tow mirrors. The motor does wind up with any type of grade but that is to be expected. I have never felt the need for more power or acceleration ability while towing. I would suggest getting everything hooked up and towing to a reputable hitch shop that can take a look at your distribution setup. I took the time to do this and ended up trading the shop to a different size shank and moved the positioning up one bolt. I would also suggest towing with an anti-sway bar. It makes a lot of difference and keeps both units very tight on the road. I do not know that I would want to step up much more on the weight as far as a bigger trailer, but I am very confident with the towing ability of the Canyon.
Note that the OP will be using an Equal-I-Zer hitch which has built-in sway control, there is no need for a friction bar (Which are almost useless, IMO. A proper WDH with built-in sway control works much, much better and you don't have to worry about removing anything before backing up).
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Thanks for all the useful replies and @Rockriver15 im glad that someone with the same trailer chimed in.

As far as cruise control goes, I hardly use it in the truck and would not use it at all when towing.

Here is the video I was watching
 

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I have to say, with Spring coming and these posts talking about traveling and towing I just can't wait to get back out on the road with our travel trailer. 11,000ft pass? No big deal. :D Side note, I ran with a Fastway e2 hitch that trip. Similar to the Equal-I-Zer and made by the same company but only has 2-point sway control vs 4-point with the Equal-I-Zer. Not a single issue with wind/sway.

I've since switched to an Andersen hitch, though, due to weight reduction and adjustment/setup ease. The hitch head with the e2 is rather heavy and did tweak my back (Old injury) a few times while moving it to/from the trailer storage to the truck.
 

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Use your head, and you'll be just fine. You're well in the limits of your truck, so long as you are mindful of how much **** you feel the need to pack inside of it. You're adding a trailer brake, so you'll be safe stopping it. The chassis is well up to the task as the Duramax gets another 900 pounds of towing capacity for no other reason than being a diesel, giving it torque to work with where our 2015 model V6 engines are still trying to figure out how to make anything close to the rated power and torque specs. Mine is pretty much like yours. I don't have a trailer brake as I simply don't tow. I attached a pic of the one time I took mine to the absolute limits, and probably a bit beyond what the V6 should be tasked to handle. It did fine, but know that you aren't going to be in the fast lane on the grades.
 

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I've towed 7500+ lbs in a 6x12 cargo trailer across the country 7 times now. Single axle trailer (no trailer brakes, no brake controller). I've also towed a Jeep Grand Cherokee on a Uhaul auto transport 3 times now. Never had a problem pulling, getting up to speed, or stopping safely. The only issue I had was oncoming traffic getting pissed at my headlights - my truck got major squat and with the leveling kit, I was blinding oncoming drivers. Just distribute your weight well and you should be fine.
 

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I have no problem at all PULLING my little motorcycle trailer. It's PUSHING it that gives me all kinds of problems! I have problems backing the thing. It wants to jackknife with the smallest turn of the steering wheel. I am getting better at it, but it still takes me several tries to back it into my driveway. In my defense, it is a short wheelbase trailer...
 

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Just a few quick tips I haven't seen mentioned yet.


First, make sure your trailer is level when fully loaded and let down on the hitch. some people try to tow with the tongue too high or too low and that creates handling issues. I have a couple of trailers and I have separate drop hitches for each one (one's a 4" drop the other is a 6").


Second, make sure your trailer weight is balanced. If you throw all your heavy gear in the very back of the trailer it will reduce weight on the tongue, making it more prone to get squirrelly (and vice versa). Your rear suspension should settle a few inches when you let the tongue down on the hitch. If it sags heavily or barely settles at all, you probably don't have proper tongue weight due to balance issues.


Last but not least, slow down when trailering in heavy winds! Your travel trailer is a giant sail and you never know when a head or tail wind will suddenly switch to a cross wind, especially when going through terrain changes.


If you follow those guidelines, you'll have years of safe towing! :)
 

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Just a few quick tips I haven't seen mentioned yet.


First, make sure your trailer is level when fully loaded and let down on the hitch. some people try to tow with the tongue too high or too low and that creates handling issues. I have a couple of trailers and I have separate drop hitches for each one (one's a 4" drop the other is a 6").
Level or slightly nose-down is preferred, the problem with nose-high is that causes the front of the trailer to want to "fall" to one side or the other and leads to sway and instability. Slightly nose-down is fine but can increase tongue weight and if you have Torflex axles instead of leaf springs you will end up putting more load on one axle because there is no equalizer like with leaf springs.

Second, make sure your trailer weight is balanced. If you throw all your heavy gear in the very back of the trailer it will reduce weight on the tongue, making it more prone to get squirrelly (and vice versa). Your rear suspension should settle a few inches when you let the tongue down on the hitch. If it sags heavily or barely settles at all, you probably don't have proper tongue weight due to balance issues.
I wouldn't say balanced, the weight needs change based on axle placement and other factors. Ideally, you want roughly 12% of the trailer weight on the tongue. 10% is the minimum guideline, 12% tends to work out pretty well. Hitting the CAT scales when packed and ready to camp is a good idea so you know how the weights are. Some trailers are tongue heavy due to their design and actually require more gear to be loaded in the rear in order to get the tongue weight correct. This is especially true of toy haulers, but it also applies to other trailers depending on axle placement, floorplan, holding tank placement, etc.

Last but not least, slow down when trailering in heavy winds! Your travel trailer is a giant sail and you never know when a head or tail wind will suddenly switch to a cross wind, especially when going through terrain changes.
Indeed, too many people speeding with their trailers thinking they're invincible and can cope with any situation that comes along. Slow down and enjoy the scenery! Not only is it safer but you'll get better fuel economy and save money. :D
 

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One add on I would suggest buying is a tire pressure monitor system for the trailer. You can buy wireless units for somewhere around $250 IIRC. The sensors screw on to the end of the valve stem. They report pressure as well as heat. It's easy to get a flat with a tandem axle and not know it until someone flags you down or major damage is done.

Your truck will pull this well, but it may struggle a bit on long steep grades. Watch your trans temps and if necessary manually select the appropriate gear based on engine RPM. Given the 20 gallon tank, you will also be stopping frequently for fuel.
 

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I tow a similar trailer, just another 3 feet and about 6-6.5k loaded up. Bigger than I wanted but I got a ludicrous deal at an auction. (4.4k for a 9k nada trailer - repo, perfect condition)

Anyway, pulling it is fine, no worries there. Plenty of power to get going and brake. Feels great around town and on rural roads

Just take it easy on windy days on the highway, nice and slow - 55mph is a good speed, and be ready to tap the trailer brakes if things get wiggly for you. Even with perfect setup, once you start getting into the 25+ foot range, you've got to be mindful of the wind forecast and be prepared to stay put for an extra day if it is bad. 30+ mph winds I'm just gonna stay put. Even 25 I would prefer to avoid.

Can't complain about the 14mpg though, pretty good for a gasser.
 

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I agree with you on the Towing with winds. Winds can get you in trouble quickly and cause bad things to happen. Best to stay put, rather than chance it. Same here, 14 - 14.5 mpg for the V6, not complaining.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Well we walked out of the dealership and did not buy the passport. We found too many quality issues with it in our inspection.

We ended up buying a Grand Design XLS 21BHE which is slightly heavier but still well within out weight limits.

I will update this thread after we pick it up Friday to let everyone know how it goes.
 

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Well we walked out of the dealership and did not buy the passport. We found too many quality issues with it in our inspection.

We ended up buying a Grand Design XLS 21BHE which is slightly heavier but still well within out weight limits.

I will update this thread after we pick it up Friday to let everyone know how it goes.

I don't have any advice as it looks like it all has been covered, and I'm no expert. I will tell you that I like your choice, we just got the Grand Design XLS 22RBE which is about 500lbs heavier and it tows fine. My 2018 Z71 exceeded my expectations towing on my way home, I maintained speeds at or under 65 and had no issues on hills. I think most of the complaints about poor towing are the result of poor hitch setup, and/or unrealistic expectations. I towed 4 blocks with no WD or sway control to get to a flat parking lot to set my hitch, I had no difficulty at speeds up to 40mph, despite that I would not tow something that outweighs my truck without a proper WD and sway control hitch. I chose the Andersen which was noted here, it was my choice as it is lighter and easier to set up. I've used an Equalizer and it works very well, just make sure the dealer doesn't set it too high. Someone mentioned their goal is to get you out of there and it is true, make them do it right the first time.



You should feel at ease, these trucks are little towing beasts. Just don't get too comfortable towing, it happens quick. I hit 70mph in my first 25 miles, didn't even get squirrely but I'll be sure not to do that again. Good luck and post back with your experience. I am taking mine out for a 120 mile round trip this weekend and intend to post the good or bad at my original post: https://www.coloradofans.com/forums/114-2nd-gen-chevrolet-colorado-forum-2015-gmc-canyon-forum/406571-thing-beast.html
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Well we made the purchase today, hitched it up and brought it home. The drive was about 45 minutes mostly Highway. The weight distribution hitch did its job, we didn't have any problems. There was a section of road that was a little bit bouncy , but that has nothing to do with the truck or the trailer or the towing, that was just the road. Other than that everything has been completely fine and I don't think that we're going to have a problem.
 

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Well we made the purchase today, hitched it up and brought it home. The drive was about 45 minutes mostly Highway. The weight distribution hitch did its job, we didn't have any problems. There was a section of road that was a little bit bouncy , but that has nothing to do with the truck or the trailer or the towing, that was just the road. Other than that everything has been completely fine and I don't think that we're going to have a problem.


Congrats! That’s a sharp looking trailer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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