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They are installing the wheel in a new stock turbo so that they can reliably machine, balance, and warranty the setup.
So they are pushing ~300 hp through a GT17 hot side?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Are they just machining for the wheel? The inlet is only 35mm. I figured they'd want to go bigger all the way around.

Edit:
LWN turbo breakdown for those not familiar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRi-9DOHic8
I don't know that, You'd assume they might open it up, but at some point they'd have to upside your intake tube connection as well.

So they are pushing ~300 hp through a GT17 hot side?
I'd assume you're correct mass-hole

I don't know these answers though, I'm just repeating what they're saying on facebook on the post I linked. I know not everyone uses facebook (I wish I didn't more often than not)
 

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does anyone have any data if these motors can even hold that power?
 

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If I could have my own turbo upgraded or a swap, and my tuner supported this mod, I would be a buyer I have decided .
My tuned truck has great low end performance now. It would be cool if it kept pulling over 2500rpm though.
Probably going to need to include upgraded intercooler boots with this turbo I'd imagine.
Good luck!
 

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Another option would be a tubular s.s. manifold custom made to fit with a GTB 1756VK turbo. With tuning this kind of setup has worked really well on the TDI VE MK IV ALH 1.9L engines. Upgraded rods are a plus if you need the insurance in this setup so if there was an option for that on the 2.8L it would be smart especially if you push the tuning. There will be progress eventually, it is only a matter of time and many efforts by interested parties.
 

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as long as it doesnt mess up the emissions or grenade the motor.....Count me in.
 

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If I could have my own turbo upgraded or a swap, and my tuner supported this mod, I would be a buyer I have decided .
My tuned truck has great low end performance now. It would be cool if it kept pulling over 2500rpm though.
Probably going to need to include upgraded intercooler boots with this turbo I'd imagine.
Good luck!
More air flow at higher RPM doesnt necessarily mean it needs more boost. Inter cooler piping stuffs shouldnt be effected unless boost is increased
 

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I think the problem with this is that nice you get to needing to upgrade the rods it’s not just as easy as pulling the motor. I think the cab has to be pulled on this truck to get to the motor.


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I'd be interested, but not sure the risk equals the reward at this point for 40 hp. Certainly a better option IMO than a compound set up. I'm surprised these motors aren't holding up to more hp. I have a Corvette running 300 hp over stock still on the stock bottom end, for 40K miles.
 

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Of course it will. I'll have my tuner do it, he's excited to get ahold of one. I'm also only 30 minutes from All In and I'm sure they'd be happy to do it as well
A couple items to note when changing turbos from the factory unit. The GM software has 3 main sections for boost control. 1. There is the linearization curve for vane postion vs. %duty cycle. 2. There are several open loop maps to vane setpoint that should be changed. 3. There are the boost setpoint maps that can be modified based on the achievable boost with a different turbo. Incorporated in item 3 is the closed loop control on vane position to meet the set point boost. The open loop is the base vane duty cycle and the closed loop PID controller adds/subtracts duty cycle on top of the open loop.

I need to verify, but the linearization curve may not be in the EFI Live mapped parameters, so this may not be accessible to some tuners. One word of caution, be wary of a tuner that makes a tune on the bench without testing at sea level all the way up to about 12,000 elevation. If only tuned for sea level it will most likely overspeed the turbo at high altitude. There are several altitude correction map/factors that need to be calibrated. The guessing game is not a good idea when it comes to turbo life.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
A couple items to note when changing turbos from the factory unit. The GM software has 3 main sections for boost control. 1. There is the linearization curve for vane postion vs. %duty cycle. 2. There are several open loop maps to vane setpoint that should be changed. 3. There are the boost setpoint maps that can be modified based on the achievable boost with a different turbo. Incorporated in item 3 is the closed loop control on vane position to meet the set point boost. The open loop is the base vane duty cycle and the closed loop PID controller adds/subtracts duty cycle on top of the open loop.

I need to verify, but the linearization curve may not be in the EFI Live mapped parameters, so this may not be accessible to some tuners. One word of caution, be wary of a tuner that makes a tune on the bench without testing at sea level all the way up to about 12,000 elevation. If only tuned for sea level it will most likely overspeed the turbo at high altitude. There are several altitude correction map/factors that need to be calibrated. The guessing game is not a good idea when it comes to turbo life.
Thanks for the good info. When tuning is what you do for a living, it means something that you'll stop in and give advice like this. I'll make sure it gets passed along. I'm not looking to set records, but we definitely need more airflow to broaden the powerband

We are at 4000 feet and have an average DA of about 7000. We've seen many guys with stock turbos tuned to the max at sea level over the years come up here and kill turbos on gas cars (SRT4s, EVOs, Mazdaspeed3s etc).

My tuner had to go back and forth between HPT and efilive when he originally tuned my truck to get everything exactly how he wanted it. They both have more tables now, but last I checked they still don't have all of the same tables on boost control.
 

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Part of what was breaking rods on the compounds was that very fast low end surge. With a solid tune and a gradual and linear torque, the truck should be fine with turbo upgrade.

GDE, my hat is off to you for sharing that information and makes me understand your tuning approach even more. I’m catching up some Christmas bills and posts like that makes it easier to hand you the keys (engine) to a 45k vehicle. Just awesome.
 

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These engines don't need any more off idle torque with a good tune than they currently have, they get up and go real nice. What they need is a longer power band that continues to pull and that helps compensate for the gappy transmission.
 

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Not to be a downer, but seems to be a lot of work for not much gain. With that being said, I'll prob do it anyways.....:grin2:
 

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It appears the turbo is super accessible, like something you could swap out in a couple of hours easily I'd guess.

I'd be all in if it was just a turbo swap (with a core return) and a tune for about a grand for 40 horsepower.

Sadly I think my budget is unrealistic for this mod.
 
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