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Due for a tiing belt change on my 2016 z71 2.8 Duramax

47K views 64 replies 26 participants last post by  DieselDrax 
#1 ·
So I ticked off 148k on the colorado this weekend and am beginning to plan for the 150k maintenance/timing belt replacement. Has anyone DIY'd this job? From what I can gather it is not rocket science, it just requires some time, patience and perhaps a few bloodied knuckles.

I plan to do some cleanup and flushing work while I have it down.

Any tips or suggestions appreciated. Planned work is as follows:

Remove clean and and flush radiator and intercooler
Remove/replace serpentine belt
Remove replace timing belt
change XFER case fluid
change front/rear differential fluid
 
#2 ·
Post pics, I am curious to see how your belt looks at 150K. Good luck!

Lots of videos on YouTube for CRD Jeeps, those should be reasonably relevant.
 
#3 ·
I was just looking through my owners manual and saw this on the service intervals , actually surprised about the 150,000 mile interval , pretty substantial distance for a belt (IMOP) . Keep us posted on this and investment .
 
#4 ·
You might find this useful-

Also Sasquatchparts.com sells the complete kit for a timing belt change and rents all of the special tools required to do the job.

Out of curiosity, is your truck stock or tuned?
 
#7 · (Edited)
The Jeep used the R428 and the LWN is based on the A428. The R428 and A428 are quite a bit different.

Here's an idea of what people will be digging into to do the timing belt.

409070
 
#19 ·
The last one I changed was on a 1993 Mazda MPV Van with the V6 engine. Was not bad at all, but having the Service Manual was a huge +! I was able to fabricate a special tool that I would need before the job.
 
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#9 ·
In regards to kits; I personally would use an OEM kit for sure, but not an aftermarket kit. The OEM parts are known good quality, the aftermarket is typically trying to hit a price point that is lower than OEM which does not typically lead to better quality than OEM. With something as critical as a timing belt, it's not worth saving a few bucks, to me anyway.
 
#11 ·
id recommend trying to get your hands on the downloadable service manual (~14,000 pages) for the twins on ebay. i think i paid $20 for my copy. feeling like a broken record, but a lot of the dtc questions that pop up on here are easily answered in there as well. useful info!

anyway, itll have all the various torque specs and gotchas... at least until someone bothers to go through and document it on here.
i wouldnt mark-and-pray a diesel belt, get the locking tools. the mark and swap method isnt too bad on gas stuff if youre familiar with the setup and the marks to re-verify. not enough clearance on diesels to be worth the risk to me though... at least on all the vw tdis ive done even being familiar with them id always set to tdc, lock them, then replace.

doesnt look like anything too exotic going on here though.
gotta take some stuff off the front of the motor, pull the accessory belt and all its pullies, the tensioner, etc
then remove the whole cover, lock the crank and cam, pull the belt and the tensioner.
realign and check the cam, crank, and fuel pump marks, reinstall....

id probably replace the waterpump

id post the whole thing but its a number of pages, jumping around from component to component.

409074


409076


409075
 
#12 ·
I believe someone posted up that having the dealer do the timing belt and water pump was in the neighborhood of $800 out the door. For me, based on the time, tools, and patience involved that seems like a bargain and the dealer will be doing my timing belt. :D
 
#13 ·
Does anyone know if the GM belts have timing marks printed on them? I changed the belt in my old truck 3x (due to mileage) and by the 3rd time Toyota had added white marks to the belt that made lining up the timing pretty much idiot proof. Match the marks on the belt to the marks on the sprockets and presto it's right, no getting 1-tooth off and having to start over.

I still haven't found a dealer I trust enough to do the belt for me.
 
#18 ·
Why doesn't my motor look that shiny? :)


I accidentally replied in the linked thread, stupid me...

So here it is agian....
Keep the info coming! Like others mentioned, I am not sure I trust the local dealers have done enough of these to know what they are doing any more than I would. Diesel colorados and canyons are about as rare around these parts as featherless chickens and of those, very few have reached 150k. Our local bow tie dealers service dept is still trying to figure out which transmission fluid Colorados take so I am not eager to drop it off and be a guinea pig although $850.00 does sound like a fair price.

The pics and description from the service manual are great. Thank you!

I found this video on a RG colorado timing belt change.

If I am not mistaken, its the same motor? Looks like the only special tools they used were a great big pry bar, a deadblow hammer, and a large trash can. Calling around today to see if I can find a large trash can. :) Kidding aside, they didn't remove the plug and lock the cam. They just marked all the pulley's and belt and then turned it over by hand to verify no interference. Seems a little risky. Can't say I would use the same method but it certainly gives us a good look at what is required for access and how it comes apart and goes back together which doesn't look terrible. Just time consuming.

I think my biggest fear right now is getting all the parts.
 
#23 ·
Based on my own experience, dealers hire sub-par mechanics, in my area anyway. In my own experience, we had the inverter coolant pump replaced on our Prius under warranty. When I got the car back the engine was covered in coolant, the coolant tank was empty and the hose was pinched. I fixed the job myself. Then my wife got rear-ended in the same car, the same dealer fixed the damage. Long story short, some screws were run in at a 45-degree angle because they were too lazy to remove the rear wheel, and it was raining inside the car when it rained outside because they left a rubber boot in the top of the hatch dangling. For my Tacoma I bought the factory service manual and did all of my own work when possible. Multiple times I went to the parts counter asking for a specific part number for a sealant or lubricant specified in the service manual only to be given something else and told "this is what we use". They tried to give me lithium grease for the sliding axles when the manual clearly stated moly grease required. They told me they don't have any moly grease and "this is what we use". Sure you won't have a hard failure immediately, but you're going to be replacing parts a lot sooner than you should. Maybe it's better in your area, but in my area I don't trust dealers.
 
#24 ·
On the flip side; at well over 100k miles the rear axle bearings went in my Tacoma, causing a gear lube leak on both sides, and replacement required special tools that I was not going to invest in. There was a local shop run by "car guys", they worked on their own project cars after work, etc.. guys who enjoyed their work, so I hired them to do the work. When I got my truck back it was immaculate. You could eat off of any part of the rear of the truck, not a spot of gear oil anywhere and it worked like new. Then unfortunately the mechanic who did the work left to start his own shop. There are good mechanics, I've just yet to personally see one at a dealer.
 
#29 ·
Agreed with Tyler-
I hate taking my truck to the dealership- mostly because they abuse the paint and never do the work as well as I would.
certain tasks are more suited to a tradesman- engine work, transmission, paint, etc. I know it’s something I could do- but for 1000 or less I’m dropping it off and picking up a loaner. I’m guessing parts are 2-400 so If I miss a day of work I lose money doing it myself. This looks like a 4 day job for MrCamo- as I’m slow and like to drink beer while working on my cars. Also I have a 2 year son old I can’t say no to. I forget anything I was gonna do when I get home when I see that kid and end up sitting on a 1 foot tall chair playing with play dough at a table I can’t ge my knees under.
 
#32 ·
Mr. Camo. Hopefully that relationship will last a long time. Mine turns 19 next week and we still enjoy time together. Attended a car show Sat. together and worked on fabricating some parts for his Imapala last night. Trying to make the most of it before he flies on his own in a year or two.

I called the local dealer yesterday just to get an objective viewpoint. Here is what I got.

Ring up the dealer and ask for the service manager. Service manger comes on and I am surprised to here a female voice. No big deal, I am sure she is just as capable as any man but surprised me. I told her I had a 2016 colorado diesel, needed to get the 150k mi service performed, and would like to get an estimate. She asked me for the last 8 digits of the VIN and then put me on hold for a few minutes. When she returned, she said the only thing she saw in the 150K service interval was Xfer case fluid, differential and radiator flush. I told her I thought the timing belt was supposed to be done as well. She puts me on hold again. When she returns she says yes, the timing belt is due at 150k and they would be happy to do it. Cost to change the timing belt would be approx. $450.00. Wow, I think, thats a bargain so I press a little further to see if that includes installing a new Timng belt tensioner and water pump. She replies no, and asks why I would want to change those. Now I'm starting to feel a little uneasy. I explain that the tensioner likely needs to be replaced to ensure the new belt runs true and lasts another 150k mi and the water pump is easily accessible and all the fluids will be drained and repalced so it is ideal time to change it out. She says she can quote me the cost of book labor to add those to the work order and get them done but I will need to talk to their parts person to get pricing on the additional parts. I say that will be fine. She transfers me to the parts department. The parts person also has a freindly female voice. I explain to her the situation ans ask her for pricing on the timing belt, tensioner, water pump, and cam shaft access plug. She promptly prices the belt. 66.00. Then she pauses and says the tensioner is not in stock and availability is not promising. She sees only one or two in the system at other dealers and they may not sell them. If they do, I would need to pay shipping costs. They are 95.00 pluss shipping. Same goes for the water pump which is 255.00 plus shipping and they may not be able to get it. As for the camshaft end cap, she doesn't think they have one, but she will check with the diesel mechanic. She puts me on hold. She comes back and tells me he isn't familiar with replacing the cam shaft end cap on a timing belt change but he is going to check the service guide to confirm. It will take a minute. While waiting, I probe a little deeper. I ask her if they do many Colorado diesels. She openly admits that they don't see many and she can only recall them ordering parts for one timing belt change they performed. The mechanic then tells her yes, the cam cap may need to be changed according to service guide, but he thinks they usuallly are re-usable. I ask her to transfer me back to the service manager. She does so and I ask the service manager if would be ok If I supply my own parts if they have problems with parts availability. She says that is no problem but they can only warranty the labor on customer provided parts. I politely thank her and say goodbye.

If this were your dealership, would you have them perform the service?

If I can rent the tools for 99.00, and have a service guide to follow as well as better parts availability, it seems like I might be in a better position to perform the work as I can take my time, clean everything thorougly, and am not expected to complete the job on a time clock. I am not saying I am more qualified, or there is anything wrong with the mechanics qualifications or work ethic, I am just being objective. There is also a significant savings I can achive, not just on the labor, but by not paying the dealer markup and shipping costs on the parts they apparently can't get but are available outside approved dealer channels, still buying OEM AC Delco parts.

Speaking of parts, looking online, it looks like the timing belt and tensioner is sourced from Gates. The part number is identical for both the Gates part and the AC Delco Gold/Pro are identical, and the OEM tensioner actually appears to be stamped Gates on the back. Looks like maybe the OEM part has a slightly different spec than the gates or econoline AC Delco branded that have the same part numbers.


Tire Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber Wheel

I believe Gates is also the timing belt manufacturer for AC Delco branded belts. I am willing to pay more for the ACDelco belt, just to be sure it is right in this critical application but I am curious if there is any serviceable difference as the gates belt has the same part number T349, vs AC Delco TB349. The Gates is $21.79 AC Delco Pro/Gold is 27.99 and it doesn't look like the OEM is available, even through ACDelco parts direct.
 
#33 ·
Being a good mechanic at a good dealer can be a pretty darn good job. The shame of it is "good" dealers are more and more rare. All too often there is overwhelming pressure to beat the "flat rate" (especially on warranty work) and the job becomes a grind. Independent shops tend to be more laid back, but they generally don't have the resources, salary and benefits package for their techs like a dealer does. As a result it is hard to win when it comes to trusting that the work will be done well.

If it is at all possible, I like to do what I can myself, and take it to a good local independent shop if I can't. They are not cheap, but they stand behind their work, which has been good so far. When it comes to my Canyon's timing belt service, I will probably take it to a local independent diesel shop that has a good reputation modding and repairing the full size diesels. It is gonna cost, but that is alright, it is not a service that needs to be done often.
 
#34 ·
Being a good mechanic at a good dealer can be a pretty darn good job. The shame of it is "good" dealers are more and more rare. All too often there is overwhelming pressure to beat the "flat rate" (especially on warranty work) and the job becomes a grind. Independent shops tend to be more laid back, but they generally don't have the resources, salary and benefits package for their techs like a dealer does. As a result it is hard to win when it comes to trusting that the work will be done well.

If it is at all possible, I like to do what I can myself, and take it to a good local independent shop if I can't. They are not cheap, but they stand behind their work, which has been good so far. When it comes to my Canyon's timing belt service, I will probably take it to a local independent diesel shop that has a good reputation modding and repairing the full size diesels. It is gonna cost, but that is alright, it is not a service that needs to be done often.
Independent shops still have efficiency requirements like dealers, it's how they make money and can pay their techs well. It's been a while, but IIRC in a given 8-hour work day if you're not logging around 14+ hours of book time then you'll be the first to go when there's a downturn in work because the margins aren't there. Independent or dealer, they have to have competitive hourly repair rates unless they're specialized and can demand a higher rate. Even at independent shops you'll get charged full book time (Mitchell, etc) for jobs. Book says 2 hours for brake pad and rotor R&R but only takes 45 minutes to complete? That's gravy work because the shop and the tech get paid based on book time logged and not actual hours worked.

Small, independent shops can be better to work for if properly run. Dealers are big machines so it's easy for individuals to get caught up in business drama.
 
#35 ·
Just throwing a suggestion out here because I haven’t seen it mentioned before, if you’re unable to rent the special tools consider buying them and then reselling them on eBay once the work is complete. Seems like those tools are a little hard to come by so I would think you’d have little trouble selling them and getting most if not all of your money back.
 
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