Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon banner

21 - 40 of 40 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Moral of the story, n1as, is that you'll be a pioneer here. Ours is not to judge what you do with your truck. Document well, and thoroughly.

Mayhap, when pulling the auto unit from your truck, you grab the sensors it needs. You may be working with an auto harness in addition to the control panel and sensors. I imagine the ducting section is probably the same between the two since bosses for sensors are inexpensive to cast in compared to the manufacturing and logistics of an entire second version of the system, so you're probably in luck. The wires for the additional sensors on the harness may be a different story though... It's easy to make a case either way on that.

The biggest concern I would have, as has been brought up already, is the BCM. Wrenches have no currency there. You may find you swap absolutely everything over flawlessly, only to discover that it was in vain for an inability to make that 0 a 1... I don't know how to verify this one way or the other without doing the surgery or access to the code (I'm a software engineer, and could probably figure it out easily enough, but access and encryption are not in my toolset).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,539 Posts
One of the things I would want to do is check out the wiring diagrams for both: Sounds like someone has already done that and said that is not an issue.

I thought I would go research the Body Builders electrical PDF for insight, and I got caught by a big surprise. As a V6 gas owner, I forgot that the diesel has an electrical heater element to heat the cabin until the engine warms up. I would think that requires a totally different set up than what I have been envisioning. I was thinking that there were 2 controller/BCM programs at work, but this means there must be a 3rd configuration. If the diesel with auto HVAC truly uses the same controller part number as the V6 with auto HVAC, then the BCM has a greater role in this.

I just checked, it appears I can build a diesel LT without the auto HVAC. That would suggest at least 4 different configurations between the V6 & diesel with respect to controllers and BCM programs. In any event, if you fix one problem you have with the auto control, you could create a different problem with no electric heater.

I would suggest you download the Body Builder electrical for your 2017 ( I am looking at the 2015) . Print out the pages for the auto controls and manual controls, as well as the wiring diagrams, and compare them side by side. Offhand, as I did a quick glance, it did not seem like I was seeing any issues, for instance, both systems use a 5 wire stepper motor for certain functions.

Actually, looking at what I was seeing at a quick glance, the BCM doesn't even seem to be in the wiring diagram for the HVAC system. It is more self-contained than I would have expected.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
So today, I ran the HVAC controls in Auto. Set it for 76 and just drove. At first my windshield fogged and I had to crank the fan to be able to see. Once I got past that initial issue I put it back on Auto and waited.

Indeed it heated my truck faster than I do when I run it in manual. Mainly because it didn't have to focus on driving :)

BUT I don't want the heater to heat the truck, I want it to heat ME! I want that hot-tub style experience where the vents are blowing warm air at you, driving the shivers away.

The Auto system was not built to do that. In never put any warm air through the dash vents, only on the windshield and my feet (hot feet). It focuses on just bringing the interior of the truck up to temp rather than on warming the driver, which leaves me cold (double meaning intended :) ).

And it would be fine if the unit was as easy to use in manual mode as in Auto but it is not. Hence my original question.

So have I justified my idea enough to get an answer as to whether or not the swap will work?
I am pretty sure the heat controls are just electronic input into the BCM computer, like a mouse or a keyboard for your computer. I don't know if the computer or software is different between the two, but that could be an issue.

Another option, but considerably more money, would be to use one of the android head units that are posted about in these forums... If I recall correctly, they can be configured to give you a touch screen slider that would be much quicker to drag from min to max heat.

Also, one of the reasons that the truck heats faster on Auto, is that if it is a diesel it probably has an electric heater in the foot vent; I usually try to use one of the combined outputs that include the foot if I need heat fast on a very cold morning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,539 Posts
I am pretty sure the heat controls are just electronic input into the BCM computer, like a mouse or a keyboard for your computer. I don't know if the computer or software is different between the two, but that could be an issue.

Another option, but considerably more money, would be to use one of the android head units that are posted about in these forums... If I recall correctly, they can be configured to give you a touch screen slider that would be much quicker to drag from min to max heat.

Also, one of the reasons that the truck heats faster on Auto, is that if it is a diesel it probably has an electric heater in the foot vent; I usually try to use one of the combined outputs that include the foot if I need heat fast on a very cold morning.
I would have thought you were correct, but looking at the wiring diagrams for the 2015 trucks, none of the controls appear to be routed through the BCM. I was shocked. I thought all roads to Rome went through the country of BCM.

As far as the electric heater on the diesels, I am not sure, but it requires some very specific settings to actually engage it, from 2015 wiring diagram. While the language below was included in the 2015 wiring diagram, I did not find any actual wiring diagrams - probably because the diesel was not available in 2015. (also found a word misspelled in the 2015 manual, but I corrected it.)

Auxiliary Electric Heater (Diesel ONLY)
Models equipped with a diesel engine are also equipped with an auxiliary electric heater grid to provide faster cabin warm-ups in cold climates. The auxiliary heater grid is mounted in the low-center of the HVAC module, where heat is transferred from the grid to air which is directed to the floor outlet ducts.
The auxiliary heater is enabled only when the cabin temperature is set to MAX, the engine coolant temperature is less than 80°C (176°F), and the outside air temperature is below 12°C (54°F). When engine coolant temperature - rises above 80°C (176°F), the temperature control is moved away from the MAX position, or the outside air temperature is above 12°C (54°F), the auxiliary electric heater is disabled, and cabin heat is managed only by the coolant-based heater core and temperature door position. If the auxiliary electric heater is activated and then turns off, it can actuate once again if the engine coolant temperature drops below 75°C (167°F), or the outside air temperature drops below 8°C (46°F).
The actual amount of heat output from the auxiliary electric heater can vary and is dependent upon internal overheating protection, battery state of charge, and other vehicle electrical load requirements.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Exactly! I have the Auto hvac also and would love to downgrade too if possible! The only way that I can keep my feet warm will this stupid system is to roast me out! I hate the fact that this system blows cold air in the cabin when i I don’t want it to! And, NO, I don’t ever have this system in auto!
All you need to do is hit the button for the floor vents after you turn on the system in auto and it will shut the auto function off that controls where the air is venting to, but the auto function will still work with the fan speed if you do not turn the knob, since it changes fan speed with the temp setting, when the temp gets near your temp setting it will slow the fan accordingly. I switch between the floor/center vents and the just floor vents after I get the windshield warmed up. I rarely turn the fan speed knob since the auto function for the fan knob does the a good job. I do not leave the ac button on either, I shut if off as well, my compressor has always been noisy and this time of year I hate listening to it so I shut it off. The system will stay at whatever configuration I have set when I shut the engine off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
All you need to do is hit the button for the floor vents after you turn on the system in auto and it will shut the auto function off that controls where the air is venting to, but the auto function will still work with the fan speed if you do not turn the knob, since it changes fan speed with the temp setting, when the temp gets near your temp setting it will slow the fan accordingly. I switch between the floor/center vents and the just floor vents after I get the windshield warmed up. I rarely turn the fan speed knob since the auto function for the fan knob does the a good job. I do not leave the ac button on either, I shut if off as well, my compressor has always been noisy and this time of year I hate listening to it so I shut it off. The system will stay at whatever configuration I have set when I shut the engine off.
Obviously, you didn’t actually read my comment. I NEVER use auto!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,953 Posts
I just checked the fan speed change on the manual units, and they do delay for a second or two before the fan changes speed. But you can turn the dial to the top speed as fast as you want (I assume the Auto is a dial that just keeps turning???).

I didn't realize that the diesel auxiliary heat was just out of the floor vents. I knew about the outside temp and temperature setting restrictions. The diesel heats up rather quickly in any event, but now I'll have to check the floor when I think it should be doing something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,270 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
I did not know about the diesel electric heater. But it only engages when temp is at MAX? So I have to spin-spin-spin-spin-spin-spin the knob to go from 73 to MAX (17 clicks, but don't go too fast) then do another 17 to get back down to 73 or I won't get the benefit of the aux heater?

If the diesel electric heat works with the manual control set to max heat then it would be much easier to engage / disengage than with the Auto control panel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,539 Posts
I did not know about the diesel electric heater. But it only engages when temp is at MAX? So I have to spin-spin-spin-spin-spin-spin the knob to go from 73 to MAX (17 clicks, but don't go too fast) then do another 17 to get back down to 73 or I won't get the benefit of the aux heater?

If the diesel electric heat works with the manual control set to max heat then it would be much easier to engage / disengage than with the Auto control panel.
I am going to say that initially I was skeptical it would work. Looking at the wiring diagram (for a 2015), I would say there may be a much higher chance it would work than I first thought. Pull the 2017 wiring diagrams and really check closely that all of the connectors will match up.

I also think that the diesel electric heat is way over rated when you consider how you have to set things in order for it to kick in.

On my auto HVAC unit, I rarely adjust higher than 73-74 or lower than 68 deg. F. I mostly use AUTO mode, but sometimes on AUTO, in RECIRC mode at highway speeds, I get the whistling sound. Turning off the RECIRC will stop that noise, and I believe that all of the rest of the AUTO functions still work.

I have hit the button to direct all of the air onto the defrost ducts a few times this season in real cold weather with high humidity. Two minutes down the road and truck is warm enough, windshield clear, and back to full AUTO I go because the noise level is so high on DEFROST mode.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,953 Posts
I also think that the diesel electric heat is way over rated when you consider how you have to set things in order for it to kick in.
I did not know about the diesel electric heater. But it only engages when temp is at MAX? So I have to spin-spin-spin-spin-spin-spin the knob to go from 73 to MAX (17 clicks, but don't go too fast) then do another 17 to get back down to 73 or I won't get the benefit of the aux heater?

If the diesel electric heat works with the manual control set to max heat then it would be much easier to engage / disengage than with the Auto control panel.
Yes it is much easier with the manual (just twist the dial once), and yes it probably is over-rated, but I say that having seldom driven my truck much below 32 degrees and starting from a garage. My coolant is probably starting at about 40 degrees and gets to something that feels warm without the electric heat in just a couple two or three blocks. It's amazing how quickly it starts working from the coolant heat. As I recall that may be an emissions thing--they have a small area of coolant heat up quickly--but I might be thinking of a different engine. Not sure where I heard that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,953 Posts
I'm a bit surprised no one seems to be defending the Auto mode, but then it occurred to me: Auto mode is sort of like having a passenger who thinks it's their job to control the heat/cool/vent/fan functions. Unless whoever programmed the computer thinks exactly like you do, Auto is probably annoying at times.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
I'm a bit surprised no one seems to be defending the Auto mode, but then it occurred to me: Auto mode is sort of like having a passenger who thinks it's their job to control the heat/cool/vent/fan functions. Unless whoever programmed the computer thinks exactly like you do, Auto is probably annoying at times.
I'm used to decades with a manual control with one control input for one function, each operating more-or-less instantly. I am the sensor and the control computer. The manual interface with the Auto control panel is less than ideal. The only way to peacefully coexist with it is to just let the darn thing have its way. You have to change your workflow & expectations. Accept the solution it gives and be happy with it or start fighting with the computer. I have always had great results with manual systems but now I have to relinquish control to a computer that gives good (not great) results overall.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
Oh wait - I think I figured out the GOTCH-A!

The manual control appears to have no button for the rear window (and side mirror) defrost!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Oh wait - I think I figured out the GOTCH-A!

The manual control appears to have no button for the rear window (and side mirror) defrost!!!
I found one on eBay with the rear defrost! I don’t know how to put the link here, but a got a pic! If I wasn’t low on funds right now I’d be the guinea pig!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,539 Posts
I'm a bit surprised no one seems to be defending the Auto mode, but then it occurred to me: Auto mode is sort of like having a passenger who thinks it's their job to control the heat/cool/vent/fan functions. Unless whoever programmed the computer thinks exactly like you do, Auto is probably annoying at times.
I have very little issues with my AUTO mode. I don't get too worked up over things, and it just plods along doing it's job. I rarely adjust it much, mainly just the temp between a 68 and 72 deg range. Probably where I see the biggest issue is when the outside temperature is within a few degrees of my desired temperature, sometimes it seems to fight itself trying to adjust the temperature. I often will need to make a slight adjustment at that time. As I said earlier, I may click the RECIRC off and sometimes I may direct all of the air through the defrost ducts. Otherwise, it just works. No need to defend a system that meets my needs.

Now, when my wife gets in a vehicle, she starts making wholesale adjustments, usually first to turn down the fan speed. Once you have done that. the system can no longer do it's job. She likes to turn the fan speed down to as low as possible so the air is not blowing in her face or making noise, then the system can not cool or heat the vehicle properly. So, she turn the temperature way up or way down. Great, that trickle of air coming out the vents is at a temperature extreme, but there isn't enough air flow to effect a change in the cabin temp. Never fails, I get in her Nissan and she will have temp set down in low 60s, fan speed minimal, with the sun beating down on the car with an outside temp of 105 and she's complaining about how hot it is in the car.

If I didn't have the AUTO settings, would I complain about a $32K truck without that feature? No, I could make the tried and true manual work. Do I consider it a great option? No, it's just an option. I have had AUTO on a few vehicles over the years, this is not the first one. This one seems to work better than the others, it is newer, and the others were typically my wife's daily driver, not mine, so this one I have gotten use to using.

The option I always want is dual zones, since my wife and I prefer different temperature settings. That said, at least on her Nissan, I wonder if the dual zone really does anything or if it is all just show to make you think they are selling you a fancy dual zone AC system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,953 Posts
Now, when my wife gets in a vehicle, she starts making wholesale adjustments, usually first to turn down the fan speed. Once you have done that. the system can no longer do it's job. She likes to turn the fan speed down to as low as possible so the air is not blowing in her face or making noise,
That would be me. I hate fan noise, and I'm actually impressed by how much air comes out of the Colorado dash vents at low fan speeds. Noise is probably the number one reason I hate the auto mode on my wife's Subaru.

The option I always want is dual zones, since my wife and I prefer different temperature settings. That said, at least on her Nissan, I wonder if the dual zone really does anything or if it is all just show to make you think they are selling you a fancy dual zone AC system.
LOL. The wife's Subaru has dual air zones, and quite frankly I don't know whether it does squat. We both like rather cold temperatures and tend to keep the setting at 68 degrees. What it does do though is give the passenger (friends, clients, etc.) the impression that they can adjust their temperature. To the extent it does so though is questionable because you're sitting in a small area. At best I suspect it just adjusts the temperature coming out of the vents--but the question is--which vents?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
So today, I ran the HVAC controls in Auto. Set it for 76 and just drove. At first my windshield fogged and I had to crank the fan to be able to see. Once I got past that initial issue I put it back on Auto and waited.

Indeed it heated my truck faster than I do when I run it in manual. Mainly because it didn't have to focus on driving :)

BUT I don't want the heater to heat the truck, I want it to heat ME! I want that hot-tub style experience where the vents are blowing warm air at you, driving the shivers away.

The Auto system was not built to do that. In never put any warm air through the dash vents, only on the windshield and my feet (hot feet). It focuses on just bringing the interior of the truck up to temp rather than on warming the driver, which leaves me cold (double meaning intended :) ).

And it would be fine if the unit was as easy to use in manual mode as in Auto but it is not. Hence my original question.

So have I justified my idea enough to get an answer as to whether or not the swap will work?
Can't you just push the vent button next to the AC. That works getting the hot air through the vents in my Vette with the auto system. It overrides the automatics inclination to heat your feet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Yes, I know that. What drives me nuts is how slowly the temp knob responds. Spin, Spin, Spin, Spin - changed by 8 degrees. Spin, spin, spin, spin, spin spin.

I much prefer a knob that goes from full hot to full cold in 1/2 rotation.

Oh, and I'd love it if the fan didn't have a 10 second delay when the speed knob is changed.
THIS!!! Annoys the hell out of me. I first experienced this in my wife’s 2009 BMW and I would break a sweat waiting 8 seconds for the fan to turn on. They say it’s so it doesn’t blow warm air. Our 2014 sienna does it too. When I test drive the new ford ranger it was slow to turn on too. It’s just the nature of these modern systems. On a hot day you Got to turn it on with the door open and wait. Or use remote start.

To answer your other question, I doubt it will work if you switch.
 
21 - 40 of 40 Posts
Top