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2017 AT 4x4 LWN CCLB Dark Slate Metallic
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Looks like the hub is on the rim still.

View attachment 425337

could be an optical delusion... lol
I like how we went from debating the merits and risks of changing spark plugs to analyzing runaway wheel videos for evidence of lug nut failure 馃ぃ

EDIT: This video shows a similar hub cap ring stayed on the wheel when it separated from an F250 and killed this poor woman.

 

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2018 z71 3.6 long bed
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One company doesn't make it frequent.

Just makes it happened.

It's more frequent today.

Everything is more frequent these days.

I see more accidents now then when I started 20 years ago. 20 years ago semis didn't have leashes.
 

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2017 AT 4x4 LWN CCLB Dark Slate Metallic
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One company doesn't make it frequent.

Just makes it happened.

It's more frequent today.

Everything is more frequent these days.

I see more accidents now then when I started 20 years ago. 20 years ago semis didn't have leashes.
That wasn't one company it was a nation wide study done in 1986... I'm not sure anyone claimed it was more or less frequent today but obviously it still happens a lot.
 

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I like how we went from debating the merits and risks of changing spark plugs to analyzing runaway wheel videos for evidence of lug nut failure 馃ぃ
Yes! I was thinking the same thing.
Funny place this forum. :)
 
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2018 Colorado CCLB Z71 3.6 LGZ
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No..but you do have eyes that see your surroundings. And I certainly see a lot of vehicles without rims on the freeway these days. I also see broken suspension.
those are stolen
The cinder blocks are a dead giveaway
 

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So are we all in agreement that the use of anti seize on lug studs are causing the wheels to come off of vehicles killing thousands of people every year? OK good. Now can we move on??

:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 :rolleyes:
also, if you use anti seize on spark plugs they could fly out and poke your eye out?!?! lol
 

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2017 AT 4x4 LWN CCLB Dark Slate Metallic
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So are we all in agreement that the use of anti seize on lug studs are causing the wheels to come off of vehicles killing thousands of people every year? OK good. Now can we move on??

:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 馃悙 :rolleyes:
also, if you use anti seize on spark plugs they could fly out and poke your eye out?!?! lol
Or maybe it just drips on the electrode and ruins your mpg's
 

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2018 Colorado CCLB Z71 3.6 LGZ
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Well, I will just dump my sparky contribution here, since there is already a good discription of the procedure, all I have to contribute is some advice and pics. And my special tool.
I knew you would be interested!


I finally did it and I have a few things to say about it. Of course.

This would be an easier job if:
I knew how to remove clips,
Didn't drop tools and screws,
The # 7 & 8 plenum bolts weren't a biatch,
The hood release wasn't stabbing me everywhere.

All in all this job isn't the hardest thing to undertake provided you equip yourself with the right tools and precautions.

FOAM COVERS
I will mention this up front, those foam noise damper shields on top of the rocker covers...they are molded around everything on the cover. They break easily and youre gonna break them to get to the coils. If you are going further on to do rocker cover gaskets then you will need to unclip all the crap in the way to allow one piece removing of these. In this case you might be able to reuse them. If not, I wouldn't bother replacing them for a spark plug job. All they do is reduce noise and soak up oil, which may catch fire. There is an advisory about this fire hazard in AllData. The left side is simple to replace but the right will add a lot more time, and stabbing, to your job. Just toss them. You would probably prefer seeing your coil packs anyway.

STABBING
youre gonna have to lay across the bay to access stuff in back. The hood latch is there to stab you every where, every time. Have a thick blanky to go over the front and over the fan. Those baby crib blankets the wife stashed away are perfect. Don't risk getting caught washing it, just put back. She won't know for years.

STEP PLATFORM
Get one. About 2 ft high and 4 ft long. These are good for three things: washing the roof, lifting out the battery and getting intimate with your engine bay. Get one.
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SPECIAL TOOLs
1) Telescopic magnet. If you're lucky enough that what you drop falls to the ground, or somewhere you can see it. Also handy for lifting the sparkys out. Don't wrench without it.
2) Rubber hose. take a spark plug (don't get finger oils on the threads) and find a 12" length of soft rubber hose that will slip onto the top of the plug. not far, only 1/4" and not too tight. Just enough hold to drop the plug down and start threading. This is how to not [email protected] up your day. this actually worked really easy for me, plugs found their holes and threaded without too much cajoling.
3) Scotch Brite green pad & WD40. I used this for cleanong up the intake port surfaces. Cut a 1/2" strip of pad and put some WD40 on the end
4) #8 Plenum bolt tool. The problem here is the CAD engineers don't have to wrench on the stuff they create. All they care about is that it goes together on the line. 1/2" clearances are of no concern to them. We have to figure out how to work around the stupidity. The rear left plenum bolt (and the one in front of it is similar) dont give enough top clearance to get normal tools in.
My solution is to use a length of square bar stock, the size of the driver, 1/4 or 3/8, cut to 4 inches and taped to a short socket. This can be fed in and wrenched on from the side or a pass through ratchet can drive it.
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PAINTERS TAPE
It happens, you just know it. if you don't cover those intake ports, something, animal vegetable or mineral will get in there. Take extra caution and don't have anything lying around loose with those ports open. Tape them closed until you're ready to work on them. No, don't stuff paper or rags in them you dufus. Tape has the added benefit of lifting off dirt.
Also, its not that necessary, except for a few places, taping sockets to extensions will save you some fishing time. I found out how even extensions with locking collars will drop a socket if pushed on while working in a blind spot.
Tape up the negative battery post.
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REDUNDANCY
Have extras of all your sockets and some fasteners in case you drop them down the black hole. The screws you might order are the two horizontal 10mm bolts in back of the plenum that secure to a steel bracket. Cam position sensor and coil pack bolts, anything that clamps something to the rocker cover, and rocker cover bolts if needed.
You know the drill, loose just one and you're screwed.

RTV SILICONE
If you are doing rocker covers, it is specified to apply a line of (oil resistant) RTV silicone at the ends of the timing chsin housing called the "splits" where front cover, head and rocker cover meet. Not all around the cover, just those points.

CARDBOARD
I love cardboard. So many uses. Here's one, use a piece of stiff corrugated board to keep your bolts in. I draw a pattern of the part hole locations and punch the bolts into the places on the drawing so I know from wence they came. I will also mark notes on the board like tightening torque specs. Or to remind you you have a family and you might want to come in occasionally to show your still alive.
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CIRCUMCISE THE PLENUM
Yes, its weird. But seeing how this rear bolt is such a PITA, why not un-PITA it some with a little excess skin removed?
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2018 Colorado CCLB Z71 3.6 LGZ
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Moving onn,

So I had to take an interest in the valves, right? Here ya are, 120K
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The spsrkys:
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There is a lot in this thread to prepare the novice for his sparky change, but one thing really needs covered, how to disconnect the hose at the rear of the plenum. I kinda noticed that locking tabs that are red are pulled out and tabs and buttons that are green are pushed in. Also the white clips that connect the rocket cover breather tubes are pushed in. The red one in back is different. It is a pull down that is locked by two side clips. They just need to be spread apart a little to slide the red clip down. the easiest way is to get up close and reach around with both arms to get a finger on each clip, then slide down. There is enough travel in this hose to allow you go dislocate the plenum first and pull forward a few inches.
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2018 Colorado CCLB Z71 3.6 LGZ
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Blank space for more later...
 
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Very nice additional information Scott!
 

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2017 Chevy Colorado Z71 Extended Cab 4WD Summit White
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I thought of doing something like that to my intake when I just did my spark plug change,
Just did not have the commitment to do it like Iamscotticus did.
 

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Overall, whats a rough time estimate that it took you to do all that. Also, the back of one set of valves is a bit coked up......are you running the catch can?
 

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2018 Colorado CCLB Z71 3.6 LGZ
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I had a CC, or oil/air separator, up to about 30K when I realized I had the improved PCV system, so I went back to stock. I don't see any oil in my PCV, or in the air box / eng cover.
I do see plenty of oil around the plenum port seals, but clean oil. I suspect valve seals. Also, the back side of the throttle body was more caked than the front.

Time I took, I did it over two days. started late Saturday around 3PM and quit when I got the plenum cut around 9. Then did sparkys and reassembly from 9AM to 4PM.
Im glad Im not on the clock!
I could have gotten it done sooner, with more experience with clips and didn't spend time hunting for dropped tools and cleaning stuff, snack and drink breaks etc. it was in the 90s and I was outside under a canopy with a 18" fan on me. I was not in a hury!
The spark plugs were the easy part. its the damn plenum that takes your time

I have another piece of advice I haven't thought of till later.
When reinstalling the plenum, the dangling bolts tend to hang up on stuff. use a piece of cardboard under the plenum to slide it in on to keep the bolts from catching.
 
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